"Crewcab Jake" the 84 to 74 conversion

[N2TRUX]

Once I reached the crossmember, I cleaned around the mounting bracket. The factory bracket will be replaced with a Ridetech piece.
The stock bracket is riveted to the crossmember so the air chisel got to earn its keep again

[N2TRUX]

With the rivets removed the four bolts through the frame are next. This is can be a task since one bolt is buried under the fuel lines inside the frame.
Once all the bolts are out the brackets were free. They were set aside and the wire cup was used on the crossmember and frame

[Dads79GMC]

Looking good!!

[aggie91]

I think you missed a spot...

[trixter99]

Are you going to leave the big block in it?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Dads79GMC

Looking good!!

Thank you sir

Originally Posted by aggie91

I think you missed a spot...

I missed a couple of spots. Krylon cant decide what formula they want to use. This weeks version is super thin. It requires lots of really light coats with plenty of flash time in between.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by trixter99

Are you going to leave the big block in it?

For now, yes it stays. I haven't had time to do a leak down test, but the bottom end seems to be solid. If it tests good I'll do a a top end swap with EFI.

[N2TRUX]

It rained and traffic was horrible coming home tonight. I got a late start in the shop so I was limited on what I had time to do. I decided to work on the bottom side of the crossmember.

After degreasing, I wire wheeled what I could. The rest was cleaned by hand with course sand paper.

[N2TRUX]

After a wipe down with Scotch Brite and brake cleaner it was ready for paint. I cleaned inside the saddle as best as possible. I'll use undercoating to protect the inner surfaces once the paint dries.

[N2TRUX]

One last coat or six on the rest of the frame and It was time to shut shop for the night.

[rustytruck50]

Ken...the makers of Krylon owe alot to you for making the product look so dang good! I have a question....in the last picture, for example, where you stopped painting at the pitman arm...how do you get such a seamless, consistent finish when you stop & resume painting? Do you scuff the painted area leading up to the unfinished area or does it blend well enough that it's just a continuation from where you left off? Its impressive and I've seen it time & again through your other builds. Its definitely something I can use on both of my trucks, especially the '72.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

Ken...the makers of Krylon owe alot to you for making the product look so dang good! I have a question....in the last picture, for example, where you stopped painting at the pitman arm...how do you get such a seamless, consistent finish when you stop & resume painting? Do you scuff the painted area leading up to the unfinished area or does it blend well enough that it's just a continuation from where you left off? Its impressive and I've seen it time & again through your other builds. Its definitely something I can use on both of my trucks, especially the '72.

It has been a lesson in frustration dealing with the changes in Krylon formulas. I can imagine they aren't happy either.
I have found that Krylon does a good job of adhering to itself. Consequently a lite scuff with Scotch Brite is all that's required when overlapping. It helps that the painted surfaces are under the truck so you cant see the overlap , but it truly blends well.

[N2TRUX]

@n2trux shop hack. When painting or undercoat requires a light, here what I do to keep the lenses clean. Slip a baggie over the head of the light. It's cheap, quick, and easy to replace

[nlped]

^^^ I do they too. I keep 1 quart baggies in a drawer just for that.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by nlped

^^^ I do they too. I keep 1 quart baggies in a drawer just for that.

I bag and tag all my bolts as I take things apart. I keep a couple of sizes handy.

[N2TRUX]

This morning I got a quick shop session in. I knew I wouldn't be able to throughly sand inside the crossmember. I decided to protect it with undercoating as we as possible.

I prepped the surface as much as possible and masked the surrounding area. A few coats of undercoating and I felt better.

[N2TRUX]

I needed the inside to cure today since Chris and I had plans to start the installation tonight. We got off to a good start by unpacking boxes. If you ever order anything from Ridetech plan on spending some time to unpack it. They ensure thier products arrive safely with very secure packages.

[N2TRUX]

We started the install by bolting the upper coil over mount in place. Ridetech provides a template for cutting a hole in the crossmember. I prefer to bolt the the bracket in place and scribe the cut line instead. It takes a bit longer but it I feel it's worth it.

[N2TRUX]

The easiest way to cut the hole is with a plasma cutter. Unfortunately I don't own one so I used a cut off wheel instead. It's a slower process but it is effective.

I painted the raw edges of the cut, then bolted the bracket in place for the final time. Chris assembly the upper tubular arm by installing the caster spacers and we hung it in place.

[N2TRUX]

This is where the install paused for the evening. I realized I still had not cleaned and painted far enough away from the install area. I decided to stop and finish cleaning the frame and crossmember before proceeding.

[orngsikL]

LST crunch?

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

@n2trux shop hack. When painting or undercoat requires a light, here what I do to keep the lenses clean. Slip a baggie over the head of the light. It's cheap, quick, and easy to replace

Great tip. ..for LEDs. I tried it with a halogen. That's what happened to my "first" garage ;)

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by orngsikL

LST crunch?

Yes sir. Its obviously not going to be "finished " but it will be there

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Great tip. ..for LEDs. I tried it with a halogen. That's what happened to my "first"garage

Should I add a disclaimer?

[N2TRUX]

After my frustrated melt down Chris quietly slipped out and headed home. I continued on with my detail work and got half of the crossmember and frame painted.