Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
Scott, it's looking really nice. A couple things that may help you. You might be able to loosen your cab and radiator support mounts and try to slide it all back as far as you can to gain some firewall clearance. That is pretty close and it will get hot. Probabaly not firey hot, but make the cab a sauna. hen move the bed back as well. Next, keep an eye on that 90* hose you used on the intake. They like to blow off. Doesn't seem to matter how tight you get the clamps. It's looking really good though!
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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And I'd weld that hole in the elbow shut. Drill and tap your exhaust manifold for a pyro. It's a more accurate idea of what is truely the temps in the cylinder as the exhaust comes out. You can lose 250-300* at the outlet and get a false idea. |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
Love to see a young lady out in the garage working on stuff! Please have her wear long sleeves if she does welding, and white t shirts are a big no no. arc burn is nasty and way worse for you than a sun burn. white just doesn't block the UV. i learned this the hard way....
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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On the intake, yes, I've had those dumb hoses blow at 20psi as well. If you use hair spray or a light film of silicone on the intake when you put the hose on it can help. |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
Dad's Ford does it the worst as he has a 90* elbow off the turbo and I have had it blow at 19 psi before and its a PITA to put back on on the side of the interstate when everything is hot and you have a pulling truck behind it.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
I like the vacation pics....my wife and I also like to get away from the kids and home life and pretend we are still dating...keep the relationship fresh.
Great work on the build and I am enjoying learning from your progress. |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
Nice vaca pics Scott! That Stingray pic is sweet! Was that Hawaii?
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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And, thanks for the feedback... I too am learning from my progress.. :lol: Quote:
It also gave me my $1,000,000 idea... There's books that tell you what fish you see. There's books that tell you how to cook. The world's missing a book that tells you how to cook the fish you see. |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
Started back on the truck this weekend. The problem was that I wasn't quite where to start, so I bounced back and forth, from bending some tubing, to looking over the hydraulic lines, to futzing around with the rear brakes, etc. Didn't get a single thing done, and some things I didn't even start. The end result was that I came up with a punch list of things that I need to do to get it running again.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1...o/IMG_0677.jpg After that, I decided to focus on the transmission shifter. I had originally ordered the 23" double-bend Lokar shifter for the 727 (since they don't make one specifically for the 46RH). Not only was that too tall, but it also didn't work. After a bit more research, I found that the 46RH is based off of the 518, so I sent one back, and got the replacement for the floor mount and 16". I spent a little bit of time placing it in different locations on the transmission hump in the truck. To far forward and it hit the dash, too far back and I didn't like the look of it and it hit the front edge of the seat. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M...o/IMG_0669.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9...o/IMG_0674.jpg I ended up liking it the most where the original stick shift came out. The only problem I ran into was that the linkage was basically a straight drop down to the Lokar provided pivot bracket on top of the front left of the transmission pan. Basically, where I ended up placing it wouldn't have worked to as it wouldn't have any leverage in moving the selector, but rather force it directly down. So, a little bit of free time and some ingenuity, I came up with a second lever that attaches to the back of the hump. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z...o/IMG_0671.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-d...o/IMG_0672.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...o/IMG_0673.JPG ACE hardware something like the small 1/4" heim joints that I was able to leverage, but nobody around me has the 1/4" x 28 all-thread for me to finish putting this together. |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
Looking good Scott! That's a great idea on the cooking book. :lol: Although, the diving joint may not like hooks and line in their tour/swim. :lol:
On your trans, yours is a 47rh. 46's were put behind small gas engines. 47's were behind the V10's and diesels. A lot of parts do interchange from 6's to 7's but some don't. Just something you might need to know down the road. Have you decided how you want to control it yet? |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
Nice vaca, truck is coming together nice too.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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I've kind of shifted the priority to getting the thing running, and have really put that decision on the back-burner at this time. It feels like I've got two choices, either run with the pressure switches or run a couple of items through the control module that I've still got. |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
Well, I got a little bit of time in the garage yesterday. I finished getting the Lokar shifter installed.
As you'll recall, I needed to fabricate a secondary pivot point in order for the actual articulation to happen. With the Lokar installed in the factory shifter location, it was directly above the pivot point on the transmission pan, and wouldn't move it. So, a little bit of left over angle iron, some 3/8" bar, and a couple of 1/2" nuts, I was able to come up with this: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y...o/IMG_0681.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y...o/IMG_0683.jpg Then I put the transmission hump back in place. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-T...o/IMG_0684.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-r...o/IMG_0685.jpg And finally, got under the truck to hook up all of the linkages. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E...o/IMG_0688.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-P...o/IMG_0687.jpg |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
The other thing I did was to strip out all of the old P/S and H/B lines. Knowing that, and fighting with the pre-made lines, I knew that it would never work. I've decided to go with the AN Power Steering lines for the set up. I've seen simple drawings on how to set everything up, but decided to duplicate it so I could figure out all of the parts that I've needed. Hope that this can be a future reference to other's, so I'm also including the parts list from anplumbing.com. The total cost was under $200. It's a little bit pricey, but I figure that this will save me quite a bit of frustration.
I've kept the Dodge's power steering pump, and am also leveraging the old transmission cooler for the power steering system. That has some challenges since the low pressure lines on the P/S & H/B are 3/8", and the cooler is 1/2", but I've figured that out as well. The H/B and steering box are ordered from an '86 Chevy C/20. The other nice thing i sthat the AN Plumbing site also has the adaptors to go from the metric fittings to the AN specific sizes. Hope that other's will be able to use this. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c...oost+Setup.jpg |
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The fittings pictured look like regular an fittings. You need to use Teflon lined braided hose and the corresponding fittings (more expensive) for the pressures that the power steering system runs at. Regular an line will work for a very short period of time, then you will be re-doing everything in Teflon after the hose failure (makes a horrendous mess and is a potential fire hazard too). Mail order is nice for some things, but I would highly recommend using a local source for fittings and hose. Talking with someone who knows what they are selling you and can answer questions (especially if you are not real familiar with the workings of the hose and fittings) or suggest this instead of that is very valuable. Returns are easier too. Rarely will the project work out as planned. I have a bin full of fittings that were bought with a specific purpose in mind that ended up not working in real time. I kept them because I do a lot of an line work. Through attrition, I have converted almost everything to Teflon lined hose because the regular an line doesn't last long enough in any application for my liking. I also recommend steel fittings and adapters. It is not absolutely necessary, but I have never had a steel fitting gall during disassembly and the steel is more durable in a high vibration environment (washboard roads, etc). I get my fittings and line from the Parker Store at 36th and Broadway (they will have everything you need), but they also have some satellite locations around town and there are other hose suppliers around the valley depending on your location/travels. |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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Since the low pressure side doesn't run AN sized components, I'm running the barbs for the 1/2" (cooler) and 3/8" coming off the HB. I'm also going to come off the low side of the steering box with a 3/8" line. I've also got to tee the HB and SB lines together to get into the cooler, as well as adapt from 3/8 to 1/2, and thought that this would be a rather simple (albeit somewhat expensive) solution to that problem. Yes, I am concerned about leakage, but I think that I have done a bit of homework on this solution. If it goes to he!!, I'll PM you and buy you a beer, and let you say, "I told you Scott..." |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm2608/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm2609/overview/ go with steel man. much better. |
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