Re: 1968 GMC - Ol' Blue
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Re: 1968 GMC - Ol' Blue
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Re: 1968 GMC - Ol' Blue
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:banghead::thud::dohh: . |
Re: 1968 GMC - Ol' Blue
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Fans are rewired. Here's the sequence of operations: when coolant temp reaches 195, fan #1 comes on full speed. When coolant temp reaches 205, fan #2 comes on full speed. When A/C line pressure reaches 254 psi, trinary switch closes and sends ground to fan #2. I did this because I found out my Spal fans are not 2-speed fans and running them in series at 6V instead of 12V will wear them out. This is actually a much simpler wiring schematic so I didn't mind. The resistor and diode are important because the PCM will see a ground through the trinary switch without those components and throw a code. The direction of the diode (basically a check valve) is important too. We put it in backwards the first time and the electricity could not flow through the diode. For the ignition source, I used the electric fan wire from the American Autowire harness. I posted a link to the diagram below for anyone that would like it.
Attachment 2005255 Attachment 2005256 |
Re: 1968 GMC - Ol' Blue
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Also was able to spray the underside of the bed floor, tubs, tailgate handle, and skirts with epoxy. I sprayed three coats of SPI epoxy and this will be the final coating for these parts. Next weekend I'll shoot Raptor Liner to the topside of the floor.
Attachment 2005257 Attachment 2005258 Attachment 2005259 Attachment 2005260 Attachment 2005261 |
Re: 1968 GMC - Ol' Blue
Nice progress, you'll be ready for summer.
How do you like that fuse/relay box? It looks like the same one I bought off Amazon. |
Re: 1968 GMC - Ol' Blue
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The fuse box is good, I'm happy with it. I've used 10ga wire on the connectors; it's not easy, but it can be done. I solder all the connections too. Just make sure you get the seals on the right way (the relay gaskets can be put in upside down). You can slide the gasket over the wires and then make up your connectors, but it's also possible to stretch the gasket around the connectors (easiest if you have another person to stretch it while the other pushes the connector through). I couldn't figure out how to pull the connectors out of the fuse slots without breaking a little plastic tab off, so that's why you see a couple slots between fuses. Once that plastic tab in the housing is broken off, the connector won't stay in. I looked at the Bussman center as well since it's so cool and commercial-looking, but you end up having to buy like 50 or 100 minimum of the connectors and gaskets and there are different sizes for different size wires so you end up spending like $150 on the center, connectors, and gaskets and only using a few so I decided to go with this one since it comes with all those for a lot cheaper. |
Re: 1968 GMC - Ol' Blue
I thought the same about that Bussman. If the terminals weren’t an issue it would be a solid choice.
Thanks for the heads up. Hopefully I’ll be doing some wiring this summer. |
Re: 1968 GMC - Ol' Blue
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I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel on the bed. I sanded the bedsides, the tubs, and the floor with 180 and then sprayed 2 coats of epoxy.
Attachment 2008156 Attachment 2008157 Attachment 2008158 Attachment 2008159 Attachment 2008161 |
Re: 1968 GMC - Ol' Blue
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The next day, I sprayed two coats of Raptor Liner on the floor. It's hard to get it to look even with such a small pattern on the Raptor gun, but by the end of the day it had flashed off and you could hardly see the lines. The tailgate and front panel are nice and smooth from the factory so I won't need to do anything prior to paint on them.
1st coat: Attachment 2008163 2nd coat (right after spraying): Attachment 2008164 After drying about 6 hours: Attachment 2008165 Attachment 2008166 |
Re: 1968 GMC - Ol' Blue
The raptor liner really looks good, and I’d bet after it gets just a little bit of use you won’t be able to see any spray lines. Is raptor liner different that a standard bed liner or just another brand?
Did you add any filler to the bedside that arrived dented? It looks too straight to only have popped out the dent, or are you just very good with a hammer and dolly? |
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I did apply some filler to the damaged bedside, along with the shaved stake pockets and the inner bedrail edge to cover up spot welds. The picture I took is of the good bedside. I'm far from very good with a hammer and dolly. |
Re: 1968 GMC - Ol' Blue
Are you planning to top coat the raptor lining with body color or leave it black? Looks good, and you're way ahead of us.
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I'm having this shot on the inside of my rear fenders and front inner fenders to keep the rock dings and stars down. Looks like good stuff.
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Re: 1968 GMC - Ol' Blue
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Yes, that is exactly what i'm looking for! |
Re: 1968 GMC - Ol' Blue
MDpotter was there much effort need to get those headlight to fit? Did you upgrade the harness? thanks
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A tip: run your wires the way you want them to run and have them sticking out through the buckets and then install the connectors. If you don't, you'll find out that the connector won't fit between the bucket and the core support. |
Re: 1968 GMC - Ol' Blue
Thanks, My build is real similar to your. A little darker blue LQ4 4L80E, Coil springs, the same Tanks tank (hopefully I will not have any leaks my bed is on). I am in the process of wiring, I may be bugging you some more. thanks for your help.
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Re: 1968 GMC - Ol' Blue
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On the fuel system - I would recommend Earls Vapor Guard hose and fittings. Also use Rectorseal 5 on the pipe thread fittings. AN fittings seal great, but pipe thread not so much. I ended up using Rectorseal 5 on a couple pipe thread fittings on my brake lines to fix a leak. So pressure up your fuel system before you put the bed on, check for leaks, and use a Wix filter instead of the generic filters. |
Re: 1968 GMC - Ol' Blue
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Attachment 2011048 Attachment 2011049 Attachment 2011050 Attachment 2011051 |
Re: 1968 GMC - Ol' Blue
thank you those help a bunch
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