Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

New Mini-Split and filter system in and ready...

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

The mini split looks great. I am considering one of these for my shop so I am very interested in how it works out for you. I need one more for cooling rather than heating so a little different situation. What size shop do you have?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

So, my shop is 24'x36' with 12' eve's so about 16' to 18' at peak. I have two large industrial ceiling fans spaced evenly and an exhaust fan on one end of the shop. (as typical, it is not big enough) With all that said, i work for the local power company as a power line designer and one of our electrical engineers is very savvy on designing heating an cooling system. I explained my situation and shop dimensions and he suggested 30,000 BTU or above even though if you go by the little examples of what size should i install and they give you some smaller size, he said with the open ceiling, ya go big or go home. lol So, i got this unit off of Amazon, pre-loaded with coolant and all hardware for $1520.00 shipped. I also bought a vacuum pump and gauges so i could do the install properly. You need to have approx. 30" of vacuum. The power needs cost me 300.00 for electrician to install. Total was just under $2,000.00 with filter box. I was tired of the fumes from heat, so with this i should be good.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

By the way, it works great! the switch from hot to cold takes a few min is all when you first install the unit, otherwise, works like a champ. Very very quite too!!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

That sounds like exactly what I need. My shop is 30'x30' with the same ceiling height. That's a great price, also. I have looked at the mini splits and I was unsure of the size. Now I know, thanks.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

This is the one i went with on Amazon:


Senville SENL-30CD Mini Split Air Conditioner Heat Pump, 30000 BTU 18 SEER 208/230V

1399.00 before tax - Amazon Prime is free shipping

Vacuum pump kit:
Kozyvacu AUTO AC Repair Complete Tool Kit with 1-Stage 3.5 CFM Vacuum Pump, Manifold Gauge Set, Hoses and its Acccessories

Mini-Split line connector:
IANZHENKEJI R410A Adapter | 5/16" Female Quick Couplers x 1/4" Male Flare for Outdoor Units Mini Split & HVAC & Central Air Conditioner System(Pack of 2) (145°)

Then you just need to have electrical ran.
The filter box cost me $85.00 but is optional.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thanks for the info.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Small update: So the Mini-Split is working great! I am amazed at how well it does work. I plan to monitor the temp in the shop and how much it affects the power bill to get a good understanding how much it cost to keep the shop at a 62 degrees at a min.

As for the truck, I am finally back to work on it. Just about got the bottom of the cab by in the door area done. I would have it done but we ran out of gas, damnit. So this week we will have this door area done and this weekend i plan to have the other area below the passenger door done and start on the header area inside and out.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Update:

So Driver side lower door area and cab floor are repaired. Now onto less involved passenger side.

First pic is completed driver side

Rest are the passenger side after i removed the stock lower cab door panel

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

You can see the dent in the stock under area shown in the last two pics. Metal all seems to be decent, no real rusted through areas, just surface rust that i will coat with Por 15. The dent is my trouble area. May need to get new panel for that. I was thinking of trying to fix it by hammer and dolly, but maybe just a replacement panel would be easier.
Suggestions?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Well i ordered the complete lower side of the passenger door area for the cab from LMC, it is on the way....

As for the passenger side, i did a little work. grey pic is as it started out... Thanks to CaptainFab for the door pillars.... (shown in blue)

Waiting on the panel from LMC... and then the gas filler neck fill in panel from POL

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Looks good.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you sir! I appreciate it.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Nice patch work. Lookin' good.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you sir! I appreciate the comments. Sometimes I think, this is not my forte, I have never done this type of repair but I figure just go for it. If you screw it up, fix it later. If you never try, how will you ever know if you can?! And with this site, the many great "how to's" on here, examples shown and such, i really think just about anyone with basic mechanical skills can do most of the stuff here, maybe not everything, but most. My biggest demon to fight is patients with the fixes. I just want to run and get it done... but that never ends well.
Just like now, i assumed the passenger side was ok..... ya after some scratching and cutting..... just had to order more repair panels.... damnit... LOL BUT Classic Industries has up to 30% 229.00 or more now, so patch panels and 7 rib serpentine AC Compressor.... i met the 229.00 and got up to 30% off! not much on the panels, but compressor was 179.99 now 129.99! 50.00 off.
This only means that i am on hold again for a bit for these panels to show up. That is ok, i need to clean the shop anyways.... lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Even though we're not 'pros' doesn't mean what you/we fix in your/our home space is any worse than what many typical shops do as far as rust repairs & sheet-metal/panel replacement. If anything, you'll scrutinize the process & fit of things more because it's a personal item vs a guy @ a shop. Only better qualified shops will have a staffer that specializes in this sort of stuff. Many more just have a 'guy'.... not 'the' guy.

You're doing quality work & learning as you go so you're getting better w/each task.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

You and me both man - I've never done rust repair of this magnitude before; I'm totally learning as I go.

I have a saying that keeps me inspired to try things for myself:

"I can pay a professional to screw it up, or I can screw it up myself for free."

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Now that is a great way to think of it! I like that, I may borrow that saying, but credit you for the saying.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, so here are pics of the passenger side floor area adventure... sucks that I had to remove alot more than I had originally hoped, BUT in this case, it was good because I got to learn that just because it looks ok, what lies under may not be, and it was not as all, but short it will be!
Pics of the floor cut out and then the vent box area cut out and new replacement installed.
Today I plan to weld up the rest of the bent box and get the floor panel installed and welded up. Then wait for the kick panel replacement and the bottom tear drop shaped outside door pillar panel to come in, then get installed. After that, just replace the door stop area on the door pillar with replacement one from CaptainFab. This will finish the floor, FINALLY. LOL Then it s weld in the hole for the old gas tank, start on the roof pinch weld area, inside and out, above the passenger side.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

vent box area

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Question: How or what tool do you use to cut straight lines on exhaust or round pipe? Specifically when you are needing to make some slight bends in straight pipe, you can cut slight angles in the cut then spin one of the pipes just slightly to start the pipe in a new direction with a little bend? Thanks guys.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Love your build. You can come mess up my rust repair anytime! :D I need to do the bottom of my doors, but that is going to be phase 2 of my build...

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thanks!
Lol, honestly, if i was close i would come help. I am not a big fan of rust repair, BUT it is necessary.... unfortunately.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Yes.

You can also partially slice through the tube w/o going all the way through & tip the tubing over. This helps keep things in place easier. If one slice isn't enough, compress the gap & slice through a 2nd/3rd time as needed. In the end, you can slice all the way through for a Butt weld or just fill in the gap.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

A quick easy way to mark a straight line around a pipe or tube is to cut a strip of heavy paper or poster board say 1-1/2 or 2" wide long enough to wrap around the circumference of the pipe. Wrap it around the pipe, lining up the edges and either hold it or secure it with tape. Then mark the pipe using the edge.