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Re: Soffseal door rubber
"It seems like the tightest part was near the hinges"
I didn't measure mine at the hinges, just around the window and down the side of the 'B' pillar. The seal on the hinge side will have the most force to compress it and is unlikely to be the cause of the door not closing properly, so I'm not too worried about the clearance there. "What do you guys think?" I'm going to assume the measurements you posted are off one decimal point. For instance "1.92" is really .192" Your dimensions vary more than mine - I didn't have anything less than .180" or more than .350" The .435" measurement at the front of the passenger door concerns me with a 7/16" seal. 7/16" is .438", and if the gap is .435", that's only .003" of seal compression or about the thickness of a piece of paper - not much compression of the seal, less than 1%. Unlike most every other material on the planet, rubber contracts with heat (assuming the seal is rubber in the first place) and you might find yourself with a leaky door this summer. I'd be tempted to buy the $28 Soffseal and see if you could make it work and if you had problems, rip it out and bite the bullet for the thinner Steele seal. |
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You really won’t want to do this twice it’s a pain to do.
If you’re going to try the Soffseal I would buy some double side tape to stick in temporarily to see how it works. Like this https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail...e-1-2-x-60-yds I hope ithe Soffseal works for you. |
Re: Soffseal door rubber
The advantage to the self-adhesive door seals is that it is definitely possible to install behind the hinges without removing the door. I just put it into position with my fingertips, then reached in with a screwdriver handle to press it down.
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I thought long and hard about this last night and when It comes time I think I'm going to bite the bullet and buy the thin 7/16" seal from Steel Rubber vs the thicker 11/16" Softseal. I only want to do this once but I'm curious to hear how your guys Softseal works out.
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I used a 1/4" double sided tape except on the two curves near the outside door handle, where I used 3M black weatherstrip adhesive. The 1/2" double sided tape mentioned above would have worked better, I believe. AFTERTHOUGHT: When I first installed the SoffSeal I used the push pins they provide, but I ground them down while holding them with a pliers. If you don't do this they are very difficult to remove. If you do need to remove them later, move the gasket back and forth and unhook it from the pins. Then pull the pin out of the door with a pliers. If you try to pull the pin out with the gasket you will tear the gasket. The pins have another bad characteristic: If you push them in too far they distort the gasket, leaving a deformation everywhere there is a pin. In my final installation I have pins on the hinge and bottom sides, and tape everywhere else except at the two small curves near the door handle where I used the 3M black adhesive. |
Re: Soffseal door rubber
"When I first installed the SoffSeal I used the push pins they provide.........."
This might be a little confusing. The 47-54 trucks don't have pins to retain the seal and just rely on adhesive to hold the door seal in place. Great tip for the later model truck guys though Still waiting for the UPS guy to show up with my Soffseals. Will report on degree of success once installed. |
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I dont even like doing it once :lol: |
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e015475, Let us know how they turn out. Pics would be great dude. |
Re: Soffseal door rubber
You probably already know this, if your truck is missing the door seals you may need to order the lower retainers also.
https://www.classicparts.com/1947-54...tinfo/03-061/# |
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Here's a photo I found online.
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zippi chances are the screws were stuck and ground flat. that portion of the door is prone to rust. gorgeous interior by the way.
my soffseal arrived today, it looks thicker than the precision I just installed but is mushier, if that is a term. if you are waiting for a ship notification email, which they say you will get when it ships, you may get the seals before the email. haha |
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Here's the latest word on the SoffSeal:
I ordered SoffSeal cuz I am vehemently against encouraging the price gouging of auto enthusiasts that Steele Rubber Supply commits. No way should it cost $175 for door seals. I'll go without before paying that much. My SoffSeal arrived. The wide side is 11/16. At first I was discouraged. That's too wide for my truck; the doors would never close. Finally the GENIUS SOLUTION occurred to me!!!!! The door seals have two points - a wide point (11/16") and a narrower point (1/2"). Just because the YouTube video says you should install the seal with the wide side at the top doesn't mean you are required to do it that way! If your doors are tight, you can flip the seal over so the narrow side points toward the cab! It's essentially reversible to accommodate wide or narrow door gaps! It will allow you to easily close your doors yet still seal great. And unless you're doing a concours points restoration it will be virtually undetectable. Here are some pics of the SoffSeal, with the tape measure at the wide point. I will actually install it just as I'm holding it, with the narrow point on the top. I'll let you know how it works but, having done these door seals a couple of times before, I anticipate it should work great. |
Re: Soffseal door rubber
Used the cheap stuff from a major supplier, it took about 3 months to make the doors close correctly, my advise is to do your door seals right before you put your truck to bed for the winter and leave your doors shut, come spring you will be golden, I agree Steel rubber is good stuff but their prices are ridiculous, they need to be reading this thread.
There is a door seal that I found that others have said works well offered by the filling station as an alternative,, https://www.fillingstation.com/detai...L_THIN_12.html |
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Any update on the SoftSeal door seal install? Is it one continuous piece or two pieces? I've read that it takes a little less than 14' per door.
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