The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/index.php)

- Projects and Builds (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/forumdisplay.php?f=205)

- - Rowdy 57 (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=829799)

Hooker turbo manifolds fit like they where custom built for this chassis about 3/4" clearance from everything.

wow, agreed, hard to ask for a better fit.

plan to wrap them?

got the transmission mocked up and a cross member built, for now it is permanent but i will get some tube flanges and weld them in when i tear everything down for paint.

Im not 100% sure if im going to wrap the headers or not, i planned on wrapping the exhaust out of the engine bay with the turbo but the headers seem like they would be a nightmare to do. we will see and catching myself up is mock up of the fuel cell. Still not 100% sure how i want to mount it. i have been looking at alot of other threads trying to find ideas just not sure how to make it work with what i have going on.

i like being cheap when i can, and i like building stuff so i made my own flat bar bender and made some tank straps myself. 32$ in steel from my local yard and i have a new tool and tank straps!

Tank straps are 3/16" x 1" flat bar should be plenty strong to hold up 20 gallons. Once the tank was mounted where i want it started mock up of where i am going to mount the fuel pump then started running lines A1000 fuel pump and filters will sit rubber mounted to the frame between the tube work then AN-10 feed lines to the pump and AN-8 up to the engine bay with a AN8 return. im hoping to finish the fuel system this week to start brake line's i will be starting from scratch with 3/16" hard lines plumbed to a new wilwood master.

Got the Derale 13470 trans cooler bolted into place after welding in some tabs to mount it. Then the little guy helped make some AN6 lines to plumb it to the transmission. Last thing we finished up last night was getting the fuel pump/filters rubber mounted to the frame so we can start running fuel lines, i will start brake lines this weekend then we will drop the cab on to start wiring it.

well since the chassis is almost complete i started working on the cab, i wanted to get rid of the red and primer it white before i set it on the frame and started wiring. so i took the cab to get blasted and set up a paint booth in my shop.

tent pictures, now just gotta figure out how to get the shop to 65-70 degree's the pellet stove strugles to do it alone.

And last thing i did was borrow some stands from a buddy to get the chassis up off the ground so im not bent over finishing wiring, exhaust and brake lines.

Alright now i need some help, i dont know what i did wrong, and because of it i have a couple questions.

Let me start with saying eventually i will do the body work and paint, for now i just want a driver that is 1 color.

So i sprayed my first coat of Epoxy white primer this weekend. I heated my shop up to 70, shut down the fire heaters mixxed up my primer 4:1:1 like the guy who sold it to me instructed.My problem is the white turned yellow/egg shell.

I Used all High teck brand primer/hardener/reducer.
I have never used a paint gun and im a little stumped. when i mixxed the paint with hardener/reducer the hardener almost looked like mapel syrup it was clear and brown but it wasnt thick. when i mixxed it with the primer/reducer it was almost a cream color in the gun, but when i sprayed it on it was white. It didnt start to turn yellow till after it was drying. Hopefully someone has a idea to point me in the right direction, till i figure out what i did wrong im not going to put on any more coats.

first, was the primer in the can stirred/shook throughly before pouring out of can ? also beware of what your recoat window is, or you will be sanding it down to recoat

Quote:

Originally Posted by ndeep (Post 9146975)

first, was the primer in the can stirred/shook throughly before pouring out of can ? also beware of what your recoat window is, or you will be sanding it down to recoat

I made sure the primer was nice and warm, and then stirred it till I got rid of the taffy at the bottom but I don’t have a shaker or anything like that, basically stirred it till my arm was tired lol
Posted via Mobile Device

if you bought the supplies from anautobody suppies dealer they probably have a shaker but sometimes you gotta jog their memory on getting your purchase shaken. if they dont have a shaker you may be able to get a local house paint supplier to shake it for you, they usually don't like to shake an opened can though.
they say the epoxy part will last for several years if kept in a warm environment but the catalyst part is usually not that long lasting they say. darker color is ok, they say, as long as it is not thick. it seems like if it was bought recently and kept in the proper environment and not frozen then it should have been no problem if mixed correctly. personally i would have doubts if the catalyst was dark. maybe call and ask the supplier. the base coat is not where you wanna skinp on quality, it would be like skimping on the foundation of the new house.

after sandblasting there can be quite a profile on the surface of the steel. it is recommended to sand that down before coating, otherwise the high spots of steel in that profile can be exposed above the new coating. in that case a flash rust could show and possibly change the color. what I do is clean the surface as good as possible to remove contaminants that could be pushed into the surafce by blasting, then sand blast blast, grind off any newfound bondo so it is bare metal everywhere-bondo is not a sealer so moisture can get through it and start rust under the bondo, then sand the blasting profile down smooth-a rag dragged across the surface doesn't catch on the profile, wipe down with silicone wax and grease remover-use lots on the rag and use a good clean rag to wipe it off. use several cloths when wiping so you don't just take contaminants from one spot and move them to another. I have learned to use a quality paper towelling for this as home rags can be holding fabric softeners etc, which will leave streak marks and pinholes in the coating, let sit to flash the solvents off, then spray the coating. I don't worry too much about using a tack cloth when doing epoxy because it will get sanded again anyway. you will likely need a few coats so watch the recoat time but don't lay too much on or the outer layer will seal the inner layers in and they won't be able to flash their solvents off. this will mean the outer layer will dry but the inner layer will flash it's solvents under the outer layer and leave bubbles in the outer layer-known as solvent pop.
there are a few sites that will show you how to set up your paint gun for a proper spray pattern and flow, some of which can come down to air line and quick connect fitting size and flow rates. if you end up with a dry pattern it could, I suppose, allow for different colors like that shown in your pics. possibly some spots where the product dried in the air, more or less, before it contacted the surface. that would leave a pebbly surface.
all things being done right, i would lean towards a bad product. possibly not the suppliers fault at the dealer end. could be his supplier?
what have you got for a gun, regulator, drier, seperator, etc? and, most important, breathing protection?

do you have a pic of the epoxy can? did you use a graduated mixing cup to get your amounts correct?

So here are the pics of the Epoxy primer i was using the mixing cup i was using and the harbor freight spray gun.

one thing I did figure out I was doing wrong was my ratio the parts store guy told me to go 4:1:1 and when I was taking the picture of the cup, I realized I was doing 4:1:10% and not filling the reducer all the way? maybe this is part of the problem? I'm 99% sure the reducer is what I was only filling 10% and not 25% because I was adding the hardener second and it was what was brown.

now i wonder if im going to have to sand it all down or blast it again :whine:

finally starting on the truck again it has been a crazy year at work and haven't had any free time. I ended up pulling all the body work and sending it to a pro to spray the primer. I didn't want to worry about it, got it all back one color and have the cab set on the frame now for mockup I will pull it one more time and do some patch panels/ fire wall plates. I have finished up the fuel lines/brake lines to the back of the chassis and picked up some billet specialties wheels for a steal from marketplace.

That feels good, eh?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rowdyaf (Post 9235695)

Welcome back!! Looking good. Are you going to try and drop the rear lower still, or keep the rake?

I bet it is nice to be back at it again. The project looks great so far. Steve

questions
post 29: is there room to get to the trans pan bolts without removing the cross member?
post 42: when I mix I usually use felt marker or tape to conceal all the other markers on the mixing cup so when you are mixing a new cup in a hurry it is easy to get the right ratio. I had some primer do that to me once long time ago and it was because they sold me old stock. the body shop guys or the guys who have painted lots would know the difference right away and return it without mixing it, along with a sharp rebuttal for the sales guy to endure.lol
you know the primer is not made to leave forever, right? it's not a paint substitute.

Yea plenty of room to remove trans pan without having to unbolt anything I think it's just the angle of the picture And i dont plan on leaving it forever just long enough that i can get it running driving and all the kinks worked out then ill start chipping at the body work/ paint.

So I lent my Holley terminator X set up to my little brother for his 85 square body we have been having problems with the mega squirt stuff he was using since we finished his truck. Long story short his truck is running like a champ now and its definitely motivated me to get going on my truck. I am waiting for a new Holley set up to show up he ordered to replace mine so in the meantime I will work on cutting out the rust and patch panels so when I am ready, I can paint it.

I am definitely learning a lot as I go, this is my first-time doing sheet metal work not perfect but I'm happy with it. Body work is VERY time consuming. I think I am going to cut the dash out and put a flat panel there to clean it up, then I have one last patch panel to put in on the passenger side foot well area.