Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
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Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
Keep the red Spicer hub dials in a safe spot - I believe those were used in 1970 only.
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Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
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Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
Red was original on 1970 3/4T.
On the front axle - 71/72 Dana 44, its a direct bolt in. The only difference is ensure you have the same gear ratio and you will need to swap the brake proportioning valve to a drum / disk set-up. Any used axle would need to be gone through and rebuilt. Check with this guy, not to far from you, he has a lot of 67-72 parts - Tom, http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/member.php?u=966 T case is a rockwell 220, you can tell by the shifter position in the middle. Parts are very scarce and not as durable as a NP 205. NP 205 is still the king of t-cases. To replace, it is a direct bolt in, but you will need the shifter / adapter/mount / connecting shaft spline sleeve and maybe drive shaft yoke. Also, the 4x4 high hump cover for a 71/72 truck. sounds like a alot but it isnt that hard. just do your reserch on this site. |
Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
Great truck! Super clean looking frame.
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Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
:metal::chevy:
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Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
I really think that he has a 205. My 205 looks the same and has the shifter in the same location.. Also I thought the Rockwells were divorced. Regardless, once he cleans all the grease off he will find the tag on the back stating what make and model.
Sweet project by the way! Another option for the disc brakes on the front (if you're hung up on keeping the original axle), is to swap the outer knuckles with a later axle. That's what I did on my '70. But looking back, swapping out the axle would have been a heck of alot easier... |
Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
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Some pictures of my np205 and my '70.
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Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
NP205 was a first for 70, I think. My 68 has a rockwell, I can tell the difference by the back cover plate but can't see through that grime.
Springs are pretty straight forward. They are "sprung" like coil springs so no real danger. I'd support the frame, remove U bolts and roll axle out, then drop the springs. Take the springs and have the original bushings pressed out before you get them blasted. They make urethane replacement kits that you can put it yourself. |
Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
I can see the others pictures now, cant see them om on my work computer. I agree now, its a 205. But, I have never seen a shifter lever for a 205 in the middle of a high hump. Always been to the right side. I believe in production, it was about earlyish/mid production run when they started installing NP 205's. Correct me if I'm wrong. But anywho, looking good! Are you going to have the drive train rebuilt?
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Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
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I thought about doing the knuckle swap to keep the original axles, but like you said, an axle swap would be easier. Plus I've got the HO52 rear end, and I've heard its hard to find parts for it, especially the drums. |
Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
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Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
Thanks for the compliment! It's a 2" Tuff Country from ORD. ORD greaseable bushings and HD shackles. I have the original 2" block under the rear. I wish there rear was still a little higher...
Another thing about the knuckles, if you want to throw some new bearings, u-joints and ball joints in you would have to tear it down to the same point so that might justify the effort... I lucked out with a Dana 60 rear. On the U-bolts and shackle bolts, pull out the angle grinder or fire wrench. It's alot easier. |
Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
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Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
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The block came back from the machine shop and it's painted! Still need to get the heads done, but I gotta space it out a little bit. Stuff gets expensive quick!
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Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
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More progress...got the rear end off yesterday afternoon. Pics don't show it, but rear leafs are off as well.
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Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
Send me a PM if interested and when you get to that point in the build as I may have one last set of red NOS hub dials - they are labeled as Ford but are the same dials and the insert can be swapped to Spicer.
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Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
Shoot me a PM if you need any help. Sierra Vista is small, but I have no idea where you are at. Building these trucks is a piece of cake....
Smitty |
Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
Motor look great. Nothin better then a freshly painted motor. Except a bigger freshly painted motor. :)
Keep at it! Lookin good so far. I miss the disassembly part. That was the best. Chris |
Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
Nice work!! Keep going!
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Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
Keep up the great work. I love to see it when well-used (loved) trucks get some TLC and get restored. :chevy:
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Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
Nice work! Looking forward to the progress!
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Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
1970 4x4s had the 205 transfer case shift lever in the center of the high hump
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Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
Great job!! subscribed
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Re: 1970 K20 Restoration
nice truck, I have a 72 K20, love these trucks, just wanted to say that I have checked on which color is correct on the front hub centers, red or blue? seems like some 70 trucks and suburbans came with both, here is an interesting link,http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=543501," GMCgrim" in the 4x4 section, is selling blue anodized aluminum hub knobs for your old large spicer hubs, I just bought 2 sets from him, they are awesome....also, a great upgrade to your truck would be axles from a 73 or newer 3/4 ton 4x4 chevy/gmc truck up til about 76, they used dana 44 fronts and corporate 14 bolt rearends, alot more of these available than 71-72, the front will bolt right in, the rear spring perches and shock mounts need to be moved, worth it though, you get disc brakes and get rid of your eaton rear which is very expensive to get parts for, even brake drums are like $150.00 ea... another good upgrade is to put an HEI distributor in it, they are only $90.00 for a new complete distributor from Summit,also, I would suggest using the U-bolts and plates from 14 bolt,they go up from the bottom,with the plate on top of the springs, alot better design than the stock square u-bolts,don't have to worry about breaking the bolt ends off....I am planning on watching your build, love the history of it, Jim also, if going with front disc brakes,a master cylinder,booster ,rods and brackets out of a 71-72( 2 or 4 wheel drive)3/4 ton chevy/gmc will work
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