Re: '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work
Looks complicated, but great solution, technology worked beautifully.
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Here's some shots of the work done on the roof. It looked like it had been used as a dance floor at some point in the past! It wasn't too hard to straighten since the dents were fairly shallow, and came out 95% with just hammer and dolly work. The rear edge of the roof was in worse shape, and needed heat shrinking and pulling with a stud gun/dent puller. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s..._4109890_n.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s..._5612703_n.jpg Throughout the process of metalworking the roof, I guide coated it and used a 21" adjustable block to find the high/low spots and work them out with a hammer/dolly. I got the dents out enough so the block was sanding the low spots, so it wouldn't take much filler when skim coating it. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s..._6859240_n.jpg Skim coated and blocked, ready for primer. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s..._3995708_n.jpg Primed with Slick Sand and guide coated. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s..._3748651_n.jpg |
Re: '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work
Very nice work ,I like international trucks ,I think they were ahead of their time. I know of a guy one county over from me that collects every International truck and Scout he can find and he drives and restores them.
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Re: '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work
The owner had already done some rust repair to the floor section, and sealed the seams with silicone when he reinstalled the floor panel. Paint won't stick to silicone though, so I had to remove it and put epoxy sealer back in. I also cleaned all of the old seam sealer out of the firewall and cowl seams and redid those.
You can see the black silicone in the seam, and the epoxy primer had already started coming off just since it had been blasted and primed. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...18558548_n.jpg Most of it scraped out, then sanded to get it ready to apply new epoxy sealer. For some reason I can't find the after pics with the new sealer applied. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...49044749_n.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...93954652_n.jpg The factory cowl-to-firewall seam sealer was terrible, with large areas thin or missing completly. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...46049196_n.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...59606759_n.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...18606365_n.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...82522861_n.jpg Thankfully the old sealer wasn't hard to remove. I scraped it out and put 3M strip-caulk back in the seams. The strip-caulk is ideal for areas that are hard to reach, or where gaps are too big for epoxy sealer to fill in. It's paintable too. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...75022376_n.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...39841896_n.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...95839236_n.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...57965804_n.jpg |
Re: '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work
Incredible pictures, the detail is impressive and appreciated. Your explanation will make my attempts better, plus no guess work on what products to use. Beautiful restoration.
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I'm just happy to see someone take the time to restore a old International most don't.
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Re: '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work
Nice work man!
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Re: '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work
With the floor and firewall seams sealed up from the inside, I was ready to spray Lizzard Skin heat and sound insulation. I sprayed two coats of each on the floors, firewall, cowl, rear cab panel, and roof. It dampened the panels so they no longer sound like a tin can when tapped on. If you ever want to do this yourself, use paper masking instead of plastic- it doesn't stick to plastic and blows loose when you start putting on extra coats, making a huge mess.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...02609962_n.jpg Ever seen this many holes in a firewall before?! http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...07638662_n.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...05140493_n.jpg I sprayed epoxy primer over the bare metal spot here before sprayin Lizzard Skin. LS is water based so you don't want it over bare metal. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...07044768_n.jpg The first two coats of Sound Control. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...70746278_n.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...49214342_n.jpg This is why I chose Lizzard Skin over Dynomat or other peel and stick sound deadeners- it's ability to be applied to areas where Dynomat sheets would have a hard time fitting, or sticking, or would have to be extensively trimmed to get even coverage. LS also is waterproof once it dries, is thick enough to seal seams, and won't ever get moisture behind it like peel and stick sheets could. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...15609003_n.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...86400237_n.jpg After spraying two coats of Heat Insulation and letting it dry. It dries to a dark gray/black color with a nice texture. If desired, it can be sanded flat and coated with high build primer painted to hide it, while keeping it's sound and heat insulating properties. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...45341180_n.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...13958437_n.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...13465359_n.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...88243062_n.jpg |
Re: '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work
great work astronaut,enjoy watching your work.
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Here's a sneak peek of where I'm at now. I'll work on getting the thread caught up with the progress I've made. I painted the cab and doors this weekend, and started wet sanding and buffing the paint. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/01d04f10.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/b51979a7.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/8b48881c.jpg Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work
I'm the same way i like the odd and ugly stuff most won't touch,I guess it mostly the looks of them or the lack of a aftermarket is part why too.I rather have a 55-57 buick or olds over a chevy just because its different looking.Yeah you do nice work i can't wait to see it done.
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Re: '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work
[QUOTE=theastronaut;5407919]
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...02609962_n.jpg Ever seen this many holes in a firewall before?! Looks like the Milky Way |
Re: '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work
Looks like glass, beautiful work!!
Hard to believe that thin coat of Lizard Skin works as good as the thick Dynamat...is it equivalent in heat and sound deadening? Definitely looks more thorough in coverage. |
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I like lizard skin because its spray on and water based,Dynamat is nice but sticking it down and taping all the seams takes a lot more time.
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I'm in the learning and psych-ing myself up stage, learn from others and plan my attack. My truck needs the usual Chevy rust replaced, and I've just got it back on the road after 8 years (that would have been the time to work on it) so I don't want to loose it for another season. I'll work it out, but for now keep the awesome updates rolling. |
Re: '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work
John-
Those teaser shots of the paint job are amazing. That thing looks straight! |
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Here's a couple shots of the door. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...5/78191cf8.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...5/15d07b7e.jpg |
Re: '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work
More body work progress on the back of the cab.
After doing the rough bodywork, spraying with Slick Sand, and guide coating. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...56541408_n.jpg I started blocking the around the stamped ribs to get the rolled edges and surrounding area straight. While holding the block flat against the outer flat areas and using an "X" pattern 45 degrees to the rib line, I use the edge of the block to cut into and shape the edge of the rib. This keeps the outer block edge from making lines that would show up later. Letting the edge of the block dig in and shape the edge of the rib cuts the edge down to the metal and thins out the primer so it can't crack later on too. I had some runs on the cab corner that I trimmed down with a razor blade- those areas got reguidecoated after the pic was taken. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...01282969_n.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...91431513_n.jpg I always block the flat sections first, then go back and do the curved sections with a flexible block. If you do the flat sections last, you'll have a flattened edge where the block stopped contacting the surface where the roll/curve starts. By doing the curved areas last, you can slightly "comb out" the curve into the flat section for an even and smooth transition with no blocking lines. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...81495928_n.jpg The lower edges were bodyworked just like the top side. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...27709633_n.jpg |
Re: '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work
Great instruction, it looks like you paint in a regular shop. What fans, and safety gear do you use? What paint, catalyzed, isocyanates? Just awesome work.
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Here's a list of the products I'm using. PPG DX572 and DX520 metal cleaner/conditioner. PPG DPLF40/90 for bare metal. SEM self-leveling dual mix epoxy seam sealer. SEM standard dual mix epoxy seam sealer. 3M Platinum body filler. Slick Sand. PPG K93 tintable surfacer/sealer. PPG/Omni basecoat. Bad decision, sprays and lays down well, but doesn't cover as quick. PPG 2021 Clear. 3M wetordry 1000 & 2000 grit for wetsanding the clear. Over-reduced black basecoat as guidcoat for clear coat wetsanding . Meguiars' Unigrit 2500 grit. Norton Wool Pad with 3M Machine Polish Norton Fine Foam Pad with 3M Machine Polish Griot's Garage Orbital Buffer/Foam Pad/#3 Polish |
Re: '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work
Thanks this is a great tutorial.
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