Originally Posted by '68 Newtricks (Post 6558224)

Edit: when I said pump whine, I meant an in-tank pump in the stock in-cab tank. I have seen a couple people run sound deadener and carpet around the tank to help quiet it down though.

Originally Posted by desertdogg (Post 6558226)

haha I actually just got done putting in Dynamat in the whole firewall, floor and gas tank but Im considering moving the tank to the back just to get some more leg room

Originally Posted by Andy4639 (Post 6558364)

Well I don't know what seat's you have but I can tell you that moving the gas tank want gain you any room unless you have very low backs that will go under the back window and metal support under the back window and if you do then they want be very comfortable. Gas tank in mine is gone but I put the sub box in it's place. Look above it the metal back of the cab. That's where your factory seat hits now so it doesn't gain you anything in my opinion.


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...m/DSCF0058.JPG

Originally Posted by desertdogg (Post 6558196)

Im sorry about all the questions, but how hard is it to remove existing engine ? then install the new one ?...Reason I ask is I had a local garage say just to remove the existing engine and just seat and secure the engine would be $900 bucks. Im not sure if this is expensive or not but I was thinking I could at least remove the existing sbc 350 and TH350 tranny without too much trouble ? once its out I wanted to clean up the firewall and front end a little then paint...Once it was out I would probably be tempted to install the engine and tranny as a whole ? how hard is this I know the hood would have to be removed, would I have to remove the front fenderst and panels too and the radiator ?

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY (Post 6559259)

A cherry-picker from HF costs $160. Get thatI'm gong to ing to give it a shot plus a load leveler ($30). Under $200 and you have everything you need to get the engine out, and the new one back in (from a tool perspective).

Taking the engine out is pretty straightforward....just start undoing bolts and wires, eventually you won't have any more big ones left to undo, and it'll come out :)

You really only need to keep an eye on a few majore wiring connections (the places where old and new interface, like the starter wiring or if you are re-using any old alternator wiring). Even then, you can pretty much take it ALL out, as you'll end up re-doing a bunch of it anyway when the ls wiring goes in.

PLUS, without knowing exactly where the trans is going to sit, I wouldn't pay someone else just to seat the engine. Do it yourself and you can adjust things like exact position, trans xmember postion, and mounting angle (shoot for 3-4* down).

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY (Post 6559259)

A cherry-picker from HF costs $160. Get thatI'm gong to ing to give it a shot plus a load leveler ($30). Under $200 and you have everything you need to get the engine out, and the new one back in (from a tool perspective).

Taking the engine out is pretty straightforward....just start undoing bolts and wires, eventually you won't have any more big ones left to undo, and it'll come out :)

You really only need to keep an eye on a few majore wiring connections (the places where old and new interface, like the starter wiring or if you are re-using any old alternator wiring). Even then, you can pretty much take it ALL out, as you'll end up re-doing a bunch of it anyway when the ls wiring goes in.

PLUS, without knowing exactly where the trans is going to sit, I wouldn't pay someone else just to seat the engine. Do it yourself and you can adjust things like exact position, trans xmember postion, and mounting angle (shoot for 3-4* down).

Originally Posted by Custom 68 (Post 6559557)

I have always pulled the engine and transmission separate, my buddy always pulls them together.
you need some pretty steep angles to get them all to slip in. Several folks on here will suggest pulling the "dog house" or the front clip there is not too much to get that off and it will make working around it much easier. It can be a bit intimidating to start taking the body apart.

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY (Post 6559939)

With the load leveler, getting the angles to take the whole thing out isn't all that bad. We put the truck up on jackstands so we could slide under it easy, then put on the cherrypicker/leveler and started to pull it out. With the truck in the air, the tail of the trans has room to swing down and then come forward and out.