Re: Power Window Project DIY 64-66 TRUCK
Steve nice work the other thread did not give a lot of details to see how to go about it. Will keep tabs on this for my burb my Smurf is staying stock regulators lol as I have already finished my wiring harness for him lol
Thanks Sean Wolff |
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OK- kind of cool update;
From the beginning! WHat you see here are two motors, virtually identical, one has correct gear pitch, other is sold with correct spacer. Per each window, one must buy BOTH motors (since I dont know how to buy the spacer separate!). |
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Next step, THROW AWAY FINE PITCH MOTOR-keep spacer! Sorry, but maybe you can sell to 87-92 square body guys. In any case, not usable here. Fortunately, appears can be purchased for $23 shipped. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-742-15...Motors+742-150
The motor we need is ASTRO VAN 85-05 9 tooth. http://www.carparts.com/details/Chev...B&gclsrc=aw.ds This one is $19. NOw attach spacer plate to 9 tooth Astro motor. I used screws provided, not sure which went where, I needed to drill motor holes little bigger to fit screws. |
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Now, attach motor to 64-66 regulator (60-63 guys, this might still work fine, someone will need to test it). I drilled out two existing holes in regulator down through spacer, then drilled 2 additional holes for total of 4 screws. I think I will add the 2 bigger screws on the out most holes of the spacer for more mechanical advantage, but later. For now, just proof of concept.
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Here is final product (Not really, only until I add more screws);
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Re: Power Window Project DIY 64-66 TRUCK
So a few other notes:
1. I bought a brand new regulator from Classic Parts to do this test. https://www.classicparts.com/1964-66...tinfo/18-730/# THis should not be necessary-your original regulator should work fine. I will try my origional once I put this one in. BTW, this is the passenger side regulator. The motor must be mounted other way for drivers side. Motor should always hang down in door. 2. The motor does not come with mating wiring harness. This would be a cool option. I soldered on my wires HOWEVER I Solder wires for a living, I have tools you do not. I suspect if one solders wires to this motor they will MELT the brushes and holders off the motor and kill it. SOLDER AT OWN RISK! I would rather find a way to make a connector. 3. When you mate teeth and drill holes, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE TIGHT TOLERANCES! screws should barely fit holes you drill so no slop! these teeth need to stay married together, however should not be so tight it binds. 4. I spent a fair amount of time with Die Grinder with cut-off wheel, cutting manual window crank gear and cover off regulator. I went back and made my hole flush and ground rough edges away around edge of hole at sector. WHen you dry fit motor into regulator and mate teeth, it should fit nice. My next step is to mount in truck and test for real, and load test for failure. BTW, my total in cost for this door is about $100, BUT I BOUGHT NEW REGULATOR! DIY people should be able to recycle old regulator and just add motor. DID I MENTION, I have done no testing on this? Please, if you try this, be aware, I have no hours or miles of testing to prove this even will last a WEEK! Do at your own risk (or peril!)*******. One more note: Dorman motors are not known for reliability. Many people hate them, think they are junk. I cannot comment either way, never used one. There are plenty of other brands of re-pop motors, might be better will another brand. ALL cost about the same. |
Re: Power Window Project DIY 64-66 TRUCK
I wonder if the Astro has the support plate? I might check the local pick and pull, take the motors, plugs, wires, and switches. I'm going to do this to my 63, I'll be the test case.:smoke:
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Re: Power Window Project DIY 64-66 TRUCK
This is awesome Steve.
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More on mounting; I think it would be good idea to add 2 more screws in original spacer plate to regulator for twist resistance and mechanical advantage; Just remember, the regulator surface where screws will mount probably will need to be countersunk as this surface will mount against door frame, so little or no clearance.
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Re: Power Window Project DIY 64-66 TRUCK
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On removing old manual crank and preparing regulator;
Notice that I ground off rivets first, then removed handle and spring. also the big coil spring is not needed here-UPDATE12-10-17-I DID KEEP SPRING!. Then I turned over and ground away hood/bushing for old handle gear. |
Re: Power Window Project DIY 64-66 TRUCK
the dorman 742-150 motors on e-bay (for the cover plate) I think thats the one you listed. anyway somebody was selling 4 motors for $51. good price and maybe sell the extra plates.
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Re: Power Window Project DIY 64-66 TRUCK
Steve send me a shot of the electrical connector for the motor maybe I can dig up the connectors and terminals for it through some of my sources.
Thanks Sean Wolff |
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Rocknrod,
There are 2 different astro motors 3 different connector pigtails I have found out lol :D Sean |
Re: Power Window Project DIY 64-66 TRUCK
Steve and rock,
If that's the correct plug for that motor part number is 12004140 .26 cents at mouser Pac con 1 connector Sean |
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Rocknrod
That where I buy all my delphi stuff from and a few others if mouser does not have it or can get it for when I build my trucks harnesses Sean |
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No idea what connector looks like. Nu-relics shows this as connector;
https://www.nu-relics.com/product-p/16480-200.htm the pic sent appears to just be housing, needs spade connectors to crimp on and insert. Here is closeup of motor connector. |
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Hi Steve yeah that does look like the critter here is the terminal that connector uses :D you can get them individually at mouser as well.
Sean |
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Re: Power Window Project DIY 64-66 TRUCK
Steve
terminal part number 12020320 for 14-16 gauge wires 06294511 for 18 gauge to 22g wires connector is 12004140 Sean |
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SO here is Mouser total order; This will take care of motor connectors both doors.
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