Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Not a lot of progress the past couple days. I've been distracted with some new toys. Got a new portable welding table...
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pskmazmdb0.jpg

Got a new saw for all my fancy trim work on the house.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psqewithiy.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psmuzqahnv.jpg

As for the truck, I got the transmission mount bolted up. I didn't need to move the crossmember. I just drilled a new hole. It's not directly centered in the crossmember. It's back about an inch but I really don't think it'll be a problem.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pssf9nbeda.jpg

You can see that the driveshaft is looking a little too long, and I had hoped it wouldn't but there it is.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psv3omndbw.jpg

I have a couple options on the driveshaft and won't really be able to do anything until the truck is lowered. I'm planning about a 4-5" drop in the rear. There is a shackle and hanger kit for a 4" drop plus I plan on removing a leaf or two from the spring pack. That will help smooth out the ride a bit and drop it a little more.

Once that's done I'll see where the axle is sitting in the wheelwell. I may need to slide the axle back an inch or so, which will maybe take care of the driveshaft length issue. If that works all I have to do is slide back or redrill the crossmember for the hanger bearing.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

I was trying to figure out how I was going to build the fuel system for this truck. I had the tank, pump and hoses from the donor truck, which would have been awesome to use. While the tank is similar in length and width, it is about 4-1/2" taller, which would make it hang down under the bed too far, so that idea was scrapped.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pslkn8gila.jpg

The original 16 gallon tank is a bit small and was corroded pretty bad on the outside. I had a 20 gallon saddle tank and I could use it as is with an inline fuel pump, but it would be kinda noisy and it's not baffled inside to keep fuel around the pick up tube, which isn't a huge problem when you're running a carb with float bowls to hold fuel, but is a problem with EFI.

So I'm going with a new tank for an 87 but will get an aftermarket pump for the 60 psi needed for the LS. BTW, the TBI systems run at around 12 psi so the stock 87 style pump wouldn't work. It bothered me to not use parts I already had though, so I came up with a plan to use the old saddle tank as a reserve tank. The low pressure electric fuel pump that used to fill the carb will now be used as a transfer pump to the main tank. So if fuel is getting low and I don't feel like stopping I can flip a switch and pump gas from the passenger side to the driver side tanks. I could put a full dual tank set up but that would cost quite a bit more to do and isn't really needed.

Aux fuel tank...
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psfjnvcbin.jpg

One of yesterday projects was taking out broken exhaust manifold bolts. One was sticking out far enough to get a vise grips on it and was easy to pull. The other was broke off about an 1/8" inside the head and has been a tough mother to fix. I tried welding a nut, but it wasn't working. These are fairly small diameter and the weld just kept jumping to the side and not sticking to the bolt. Then I tried drilling but wasn't getting the center. So I used the manifold as a guide, but the holes are much larger diameter than the bolts so you can't use it as a guide as is. I found a 7/16" bolt that fits the manifold hole tight, cut off a piece and drilled that centered to use as a guide.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pswknvgdv9.jpg

Still not done though. It's kind of a PITA because you have to drill the plug out to size for each stage then drill the head. As the bits get bigger, they also get longer and even with my angle drill head adapter thingy I'm running out of room. You may be asking why I didn't fix this BEFORE putting the engine in and that is what I keep asking myself while dicking around with this.:crazy:

Anyway, I'll probably have to drill and tap it out to the next bigger size.

While I was doing that, the boy started doing rust repair. I think he was hesitant because he doesn't have much experience. Went to school and is working in a shop but not really cutting and welding much. So I'm guiding him from my vast experience (only slightly more than his :uhmk:).

The front rocker is cut out...
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psh4hi4rm5.jpg

The rear is cut out and the patch is starting to get fit into place...
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pskajtbu24.jpg

I should be picking up the new tank this week. I'll hopefully get the broken bolt fixed tonight, but might have to pull the engine at least part way out to fix it, or cut off a drill bit shorter. I need to get some inner rocker patch panels and another pair of outers.

Next unsolved mystery is the AC pump. I have a pump but no bracket. And from what I've read the truck bracket probably wouldn't work anyway.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

It's been a couple weeks since I had any progress. I've been working on the house. The roofing contractor finally got started and I finished getting my new windows installed. Didn't do much on this over the weekend but I did get the broken bolt drilled out of the head finally. The drill bits I had weren't getting the job done, so I did a little research and found good info on cobalt drill bits. I picked one up to try out and it worked great. So good I'm going to get a whole set of those bad boys.

I drilled it out and tapped it to the size of a sbc header bolt, since I had one laying around and it's slightly bigger than the original bolts for this engine.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps1tcgsojq.jpg

I've been looking for a set of 2000 and up truck/SUV seats with the seat belt built into it to use in the front. If I get a nice set of tan ones I'll leave them as is. If not, I'll maybe get seat covers. Something like these...
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps9xbvqu0d.jpg

I've got to order some more parts, but in the mean time I'll work on the fuel system and getting the new tranny mount installed. The old one won't tighten up, the bolt just spins in the mount.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Following!

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Made some progress yesterday. I got the new valve cover gaskets installed. Then got the water temp adapter installed.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pscvrhjzhe.jpg

I have the oil pressure adapter also, but need a special socket to get the factory one out, so it'll have to wait a bit. I could also install the oil pressure sending unit down by the oil filter, but I'll do it the other way.

So instead I worked on the shifter linkage. I bought the Lokar one, same as what I have on my 71 C-10. It was rubbing on a pinch weld on the firewall. First I used a flapper disc on my angle grinder to cut that back. And I put a slight bend in the shifter rod. And I also found a longer bolt for where it mounts to the column and used a nut as a spacer. Just an extra 1/4" helped a lot.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psnbt22lfb.jpg

No real issues on the bottom end. But I did need to change the position of the transmission arm a bit. The instructions said to mount that at the 8:00 position but when I had it there it didn't want to shift into the lowest gear. So mine is set closer to 9:00. If this was a non-OD tranny it probably would have been ok at 8:00.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pstoxgkgpz.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psq2gg0usx.jpg

It'll need to be detached when I replace the tranny mount and likely need more adjustment once I actually get this pig running, but it's in and works.

My son worked on the right rear rocker patch and said he's got it fit up and ready to weld in. So he can start on the right front inner rocker next. I'll probably keep working on the underside stuff. Need to get the fuel system together and mounted, replace the tranny mount, finish installing the torque converter bolts, and I have tranny cooler line adapters to install.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Baby steps fellas. With my previous builds I found that any progress is good no matter how small. All the little steps eventually get the entire job done.

Got the new fuel pump on the new sending unit and installed in the new tank. I just didn't feel like laying underneath it tonight. I'll have to figure out how to get the fuel lines routed and connected to the sending unit. Will probably have to buy a few things to get it all together, but that's expected.

I think I might go spend a pile of money tomorrow and get my wire harness ordered.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psnoa1dmpo.jpg

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Good workin'! D's coming right along!

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Yes he is. Gotta build up his experience and confidence. Once he get's this stuff done he'll be doing the same to his little stepper.

Last night I got the oil pressure sending unit from the 90 burb on and bolted down the intake manifold. I still need to get it torqued correctly. Don't let me forget.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps3lkgaizu.jpg

Then I started getting the power steering set up figured out. I've got the old pump from the 454 still connected to the hoses. I've got the donor truck pump. Standard vs metric and which way do I want to go? I had a strong feeling the the mounting holes in both pumps would be the same and they are...
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps41elycj9.jpg

The problem I ran into using the old pump is the direction of the hose connections. I couldn't get it into position without kinking the hoses. I tried bending the supply line steel tubing with moderate success (broke my tube bender) but it just wasn't going to be enough. Look at this crazy design...
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psdx89fewx.jpg

So I cut off the U bend and re-flared it...
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pssqt3bkxp.jpg

So now the pump sits in the mount just fine. The pulley from the newer pump should work. I need to find some longer pump mount bolts though because the standard ones are a little shorter than the metric ones due to the extra thickness of that big aluminum mount.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pswhlerm1p.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pszzmvj7d2.jpg

I'm going to pick up a couple small 90* elbows for the return lines and some new hose. Ideally I'd replace the supply hose also but I'm going to have to find the right application or re-flare another brand new one.

I'm not sure what I'll do today, but I'll get something done. I did order the wire harness yesterday.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Yesterday I finished the power steering pump stuff, except for installing the pulley. I picked up some hose to redo the return lines. I wanted to get a pair of 90* elbows but they are fairly hard to come by for 3/8" hose and somewhat expensive too. I found a 3/8" Tee to use instead, which means I only need to use one of the return line connections. BTW, I've read in multiple places that combining the returns shouldn't be an issue. If any problems do arise it's an easy enough fix. Not my best work, but it'll do.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psgxu7xcc2.jpg

Then I got the throttle cable installed. I was able to use the donor truck cable. With a slight modification. The distance from the firewall to the gas peddle is different.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pszjz4fnh5.jpg

My quickie fix was to tie a not in the cable. :rolleyes:
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psc0afnjon.jpg

It works, and might last forever, but I did order some cable stops like the one in the universal throttle kits. I had this kit but since the OEM cable will work fine I'm going to return it and get my $60 back. Also, the hole in the firewall of the 79 is square and the 2000 cable went through a round hole. I drilled it out with a 11/16" bit and it fits good.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psj0ze9s5e.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps6qz9itfh.jpg

So the only thing left for the front of the engine is the AC compressor. There are several options for this, maybe even some OEM brackets. I chose to go with a kit from ICT Billet.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/icb-551495-3

It uses an R-4 compressor which I got from the junkyard for $35. I will need to see if my hoses will connect to it. They might, but I saw that one of them has a twist or slight kink in it and I might need to get a new set anyway, but there were several available at the same junkyard.

I started working on the fuel lines. I have the ones from the donor truck, and they might have worked, but not without a lot of frustration. They are bent every which way for mounting on that 2000 Silverado. And I made an attempt at straightening them out to work and that was going ok, not great. The main problem I ran into was trying to remove the inline fuel filter. The flare fitting is stuck on one end. After an hour or so of dicking around with it I figured it wasn't worth the trouble. So I ordered some aluminum fuel line from summit. I've used it before. It's cheap and easy to work with. You can flare it for a better grip with hose clamps or you can use compression fittings. It's good for at least 100 psi. Then just use some EFI rubber hose for the connections, etc. You can go the more expensive route with AN fittings, etc. to make it look way awesome but I'm more frugal.

Anyway, once the new tubing gets here I'll be able to get the fuel tank installed and lines run. I ordered some exhaust tubing, hopefully what I need to connect the stubs to my exhaust. I also ordered a 4" drop shackle kit for the rear suspension.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/djm-hs1119-4

Once I'm done with the mechanical work under the truck I'll work on dropping the suspension. It's nice to slide under it now without having to jack it up. I want it lower but not a huge amount. I've got a camper to haul with this rig...
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psak10dy8u.jpg

Once it's dropped in back I can see where I'm at with the driveshaft. Right now it's too long. They make an offset plate to use to move the axle on the spring by as much as an inch for about $22. If that's enough I might go that route. Otherwise, the shop where my son works and where I'm getting the harness and ECU from can shorten it. For the front, I'm going to see where it gets to by cutting some of the springs, then decide from there. 2-1/2" Drop spindles are available. The front is already sitting higher with the lighter engine.

Still a lot to do but it's all coming together. I'm hoping to get it fired up by the end of March. MAybe today I'll get the new tranny mount installed so I can get all the mounts tightened down.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

I thought I found some 3/8" elbows at Menards to use for the power steering pump return lines, but nope. Too small.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psgvvuxjfu.jpg

I did get the new tranny mount installed, except for the bolt through the crossmember. The new mount uses a different size nut. Probably metric. But it's in there so I can start tightening down everything.

I'm about halfway done welding the right rear rocker in.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psclaage49.jpg

Either my welding skills have seriously deteriorated or I am dealing with dirty materials. It kept popping and blowing holes. I know the old stuff has a bit of surface rust but I think my welding wire also has some surface rust on it. Makes for a lot harder job than it should be. I think I'm going to change the roll of wire and see if that helps.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Welding that thin stuff can be a challenge. I have definitely seen worse than what you have there.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

wow, you are a workaholic, I can't believe all that you get done! I like the new farm,you should post pics of the farm, house and outbuildings...where are you in Minnesota?,I helped a friend move back there about two years ago, she is from there, moved out to Ca when she was 18 or 19, and 30 years later moved back to be with her family...I drove a uhaul truck with all her stuff,sher drove her car,she bought a house in Ironton, we drove around Mille Lacs lake, she gave us a tour of the area, went to Brainerd,her parents are great people, her dad is retired and is involved in a snowmobile club, he took me to their shop,pretty cool! I learned about the fish houses everyone has for Mille Lacs, it was a cool trip! my wife and I rode the Am Trac train home....

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

I've done better, but thanks for the positive ;) review.
I'm in southern MN. The deep tropical southern savannah. :lol:

The farm is a work in progress. I'll probably post some before and after shots in my miscellaneous pic thread at some point. Ironton is close to a great place to scuba dive. The Crosby-Ironton mine pits. I grew up about 35 miles south of Brainerd. Glad you enjoyed the trip to the great white north.

No progress to report. Not as much of a workaholic as I've been accused of. ;)

I did write a big check this morning to pay for my harness and ECU. And my Summit Racing order should be delivered today. All I managed to do last night was do some cleaning in the 3 car garage. Was getting unmanageable.

One huge project was completed yesterday though. The contractor finished my roof and soffit. The ladders and scaffolding is down. Even though my part of that job was just paying the bill, it's still a huge weight lifted. So now I just need to replace 4 entry doors, build a porch, get all the trim work done and put up about 30 squares of siding. I'm giving myself until next fall to get it done. Shouldn't be a problem.

But tonight I'll be working on this project.:sumo:

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

A bunch of parts got delivered yesterday, including this...
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psayzw894d.jpg

We finished bolting down all the mounts, installed the exhaust manifolds and the down pipes with the O2 sensors and I got the AC pump mounted.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psahs8c0at.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps46e4ayqz.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psc2ag6ehg.jpg

It's kind of an odd set up because you have to remove the tensioner and the bracket is slotted like an old style bracket to adjust the tension. I emailed ICT billet to make sure I wasn't missing something and they replied that's how it's supposed to work.

I bought a pair of 45* exhaust elbows and it looks like they will work good. The passenger side just needs about a half foot more tubing and some clamps.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psgamjtg75.jpg

The driver side will need the pipes trimmed back but I don't think lining them up will be a problem. They're practically attached already...
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps0971lqwc.jpg

I'm going to pick up some EFI gas hose today. Should be able to get the fuel system hooked up and the tank installed today or tomorrow. I need to get a few things for the transmission, like a dust cover for under the torque converter, and connection fittings for the cooler lines. We are going to have to get the radiator support mounted up pretty soon.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

I didn't get to work on the truck last night. Instead I got to replace the freezer in the garage. Luckily, I wanted some chocolate ice cream the night before last and noticed it was soft and checked the temp and found out it wasn't running before we lost everything. Also it's the freezer in the garage and it's winter so it was a very slow thaw.

Anyway, I did pick up a few things yesterday for this project so I can keep making progress. Check out this sweet grill I got at the junkyard...
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps7anwtmay.jpg

It's from a 73-74 I think so I need to find the correct brackets to mount it on my 79. If someone has those available, PM me.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Didn't get time to work on the truck last week because I was out of state for work. So Saturday was my only day and I got a few things done. While I was gone some more parts were delivered. The serpentine belt came and it was the one recommended by the mfr, but dang that thing was tight. The AC pump was adjusted to as short as it would go and I had to use a couple screwdrivers to get it around the last pulley then roll the engine over to get it fully on. But it is on.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psl0fxywmd.jpg

I got the fuel lines connected on the tank end and got the tank installed. Not a fun job by yourself. All thats left on the fuel system is to finish the lines from about the transmission crossmember and back to the ends connected to the tank, then get them mounted to the frame so they aren't bouncing around.

While I was under there I noticed the mufflers didn't look right. All out of shape. Here's the view from behind. I'm guessing this happened when the 454 died because it was never a loud running truck.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pscn2hlzzf.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psrflv6opj.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps07rh5ool.jpg

So I'll be ordering up some mufflers.

Check out the spare. I think there is a possibility this is the original, but maybe not. Was that a style of tread GM would have installed?
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psgjyqpwrc.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psg7xyqiww.jpg

I'm inching closer to the day I can fire it up.

To do list:
Finish fuel lines
wire fuel pump
connect exhaust
tranny cooler lines
tranny dust cover (not required for running)
radiator support and radiator
Wires to starter
spark plug wires and coils
install harness and ECU
water hoses
block EGR hole
steam vent tubing
othercrapIcantremember

Oh, I also worked on the inner rocker patch fit up. Just need to reshape it where it meets the floor for a tight fit and it'll be ready to attach permanently.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pstsu3bdvm.jpg

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Didn't do much yesterday but did manage to get the radiator support brought inside and set in place. It's not bolted down yet. I need to get some rubber mounts for it and bolts, but hey, another baby step forward.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pskeevraav.jpg

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

The radiator support is bolted down. Not without some trouble though. The bolts that came with the new rubber mounts are a bit on the short side. Had to rearrange the pieces so I could remove one of the washers just to get the nuts started. Then after tightening them down all the way to where the metal bushing is tight to the nuts the end of the bolt still doesn't make it all the way through the nuts. Another 1/4" longer on the bolts would have been nice, which is odd because the new bolts were about 1/4" longer than the original. The rubbers must be thicker.

Also having some trouble with the bolts through the back of the inner fenders. I'll have to run a tap through them.

I got the water hoses installed though. Just need to figure out the one from the bottom of the throttle body.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps1dvmtizw.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pscztygvn8.jpg

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Just FYI, you can buy rod ends that have a greater "MISALIGNMENT ANGLE" than the ones that come with the Lokar kit. I've used these in the past.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-cf5y

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Good to know. Thanks.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Yesterday went ok. Simple tasks made harder by finicky bolts, etc, but progress made. I removed the old AC condenser because it was set up for a driver side AC compressor. I have a passenger side one from the 90 burb parts truck.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psxcq49ztd.jpg

I need to cut a hole for the tubes to go through on that side.

The radiator was very loose in the support. Found out one of the rubber mounts underneath it was missing and the other one was in bad shape. I found a couple rubber mounts from an old set in my parts locker that worked. Once I got those in and tightened the bolts for the hold down plate on top it clamped it in there good.

Then I ran a tap through the nuts on the firewall for the rear end of the inner fenders. Couldn't get a bolt in otherwise. So they got mounted properly. We got the driver side fender on with just a couple bolts so the radiator support would be in the correct position. I wanted to see how the original fan shroud would fit. Should work fine.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psicjaxolj.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psk23nq997.jpg

I read about this electric fan set up several years ago. I bought a ford taurus fan from the junkyard back then to use on my jimmy but never installed it. I think it will work great on this project.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps5o3ozklq.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psy2gcgjsb.jpg

It's a little smaller than the fan opening. Two of the mounting tabs will work good by just drilling a hole in the shroud and using a couple bolts. The 3rd tab will work once I make a small metal bracket.

We reinstalled the coil packs and put on the new plug wires...
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psau84wunx.jpg

After a dinner break I went back out and got the fuel lines run from the tank forward. The filter is installed and all that's left is to clamp the lines down to the frame.

We are inching closer to light off.:devil:

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Very nice! That has to feel a little better getting so close to starting it.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

test post, not working well with google pictures.

Progress pics will get posted in the morning.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

one can never have too many trucks

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

I just found this thread Mike. Subscribed and watching. You have been a very busy guy...lol

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Thanks, it's getting there. I can't wait to here it run.
Weeeelllllllll, maybe you can.

I sold one. :lol:

Besides the trucks I have a 47 Olds, 83 Datsun 280zx, 2000 Jeep cherokee, my company car, my wifes 90 mustang convertible and 2010 cadillac and a couple old Kawasaki motorcycles. And of course the future delivery of the cobra kit car. I'm very proud to say just over half of them are driveable!!!:lol:
I have. I'm never bored. You know those guys that keep working forever because they don't have other things to do? I'm not one of them. :lol:

Yesterday I went back out to the junkyard to see how the AC condenser is normally mounted. The radiator support on the newer trucks with this style condenser are completely different, so I'm going to have to make it work my own way. I did get the factory mounts off one of those trucks and snagged a cold air (sort of) air intake part too, and another one of the AC hoses I'll need.

I'm still having problems with photobucket. I'll finish this later.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

This is how the AC condenser is mounted in the later style squares...
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psdxqujykr.jpg

In front of the radiator but on the back side of the support, with some nifty little mount brackets.

I cut a hole for the tube ends to go through and notched a section of the support to allow the condenser to sit tight to the support.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psqukk2byu.jpg

You can see one of the mounts sitting there. I'm going to make some kind of bracket piece for the lower mounts, then I just need to drill a hole for the bolts that hold the upper mounts in place.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psy18p9ebs.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pskpbsomww.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psj7i76n77.jpg

Shop cat...
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps3bhik9er.jpg

That's Wallace. Wallace is a girl. We know that because she had a litter of kittens just before we bought this place (she came with the house). I don't think the person that named her knew it was a girl cat. We don't really care and I doubt Wallace has a problem with it either.

The later squares had this air intake mounted to the radiator support.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pskfcabcqr.jpg

There was actually a knock out plate in that spot on my 79, so I knocked it out. I just needed to round the hole out a bit with a die grinder on one side to make it fit (was oval) and cut a slot below it for the lower mound tab.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psvdfunh3a.jpg

As for the AC hoses, the lower one from the condenser to the evaporator I got at the junkyard seems to fit ok. I have a couple options for the other set. One is to have a shop make a hose for me that fits my set up. Two is to get lucky at the junkyard and find the right combination of hose style/length/tube ends that works. Three is doing a little plumbing work using the metal tube end pieces and get the right fitting on the hose that should fit. I'll try option 3 and if that doesn't work go back to option 2 or 3.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pshsb2rdmv.jpg

It's supposed to warm up the next few days. Less propane will get burned to keep me comfortable. World of Wheels car show in Minneapolis tomorrow. Hopefully I'll find some cool inspiring cars and ideas there.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

You Sir are an animal.
Found this thread. Didn't realize you had started building another truck. Cool Man, Cool.
Read through it, Sorry to hear about the broken bones awhile back, Congrats on the new place and bride.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

An animal? Well, I can't argue that, otherwise I'd be mineral or vegetable. I'm also building a new 350 to drop into my 71. But that's a pretty easy job there. Thanks for the empathy for my shoulder. It aches enough now on the cold damp days to thank you itself out loud. If you ever get anywhere near your childhood home you HAVE to stop in. I can use all the help I can get.

We just got home from a trip to the new Vikings stadium where the World of Wheels show was held. Cool cars, many of them I've seen at the local shows already but there were some I'd seen pics of online and some new stuff. Lots of good stuff for inspiration and ideas. I also got to meet Gene Winfield. Got the autographed poster (for a small fee).
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psxvqo8gu7.jpg

Yesterday I got the AC condenser mounted. I just cut a couple sheetmetal pieces to make some brackets for the lower mounts. I had to tack weld the one on the passenger side for a little strength.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psaa4eooek.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psmwrhhvug.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psmm9punpx.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psj1ztunhk.jpg

And I got the tranny cooler lines connected. I'll add an external cooler another time. I don't really care for the ones I got laying around here now. I know what I want, just need to stop back at the junkyard to grab one.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psxnpxokvy.jpg

Maintaining progress and whittling that list down...
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps4of7ll6n.jpg

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Man you got yourself one cool project there! If you don't mind share the details when you get that fuel system complete (with pics also please). Im putting a 4.8 into an 85 and will be crossing that bridge soon! Thanks.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Thanks, it's a pretty simple set up really. Universal in tank pump in a stock 1987 fuel tank. I used rubber EFI hose from Napa and aluminum tubing from summit racing and a universal 3/8" inline fuel filter. Most of that is pictured already. I used the donor truck fuel lines on the engine end, they plug into the lines on the back of the fuel rail. I used the return line system with the installed fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps4y3kcavu.jpg

Just ran the lines along the frame rail
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pszv81bsst.jpg

Many, if not most, will use the corvette style inline fuel filter with the built in pressure regulator. The advantage is that you only need a return line from that point back to the tank. The fuel supply line is 3/8" and the return line is 5/16".

It's been awhile since I really got anything done on this. Been working on other things or been on the road away from home. This weekend I managed to get the exhaust done and started setting up the harness and ECU. We were wiring up the starter to see if that was going to work but found out the starter solenoid was shot. It would pop out once in a while but not kick the starter motor on. Had it tested at Napa to make sure it wasn't a wiring issue. So that is going to get fixed this week hopefully or I'll have to order a replacement.

My redneck looking exhaust. It isn't pretty but it'll work. The driver side was kind of a *****. The 45 wasn't a tight enough bend. I tried to bend it tighter with limited success and it just wasn't working. I had some left over exhaust tubing from another project with mandrel bends so I used a piece of that and welded it to the pipe off the manifold. Then bought some flexible exhaust tubing from Napa to finish it.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psjb5xwvca.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pslwzl42sn.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psa8cezqc5.jpg

The passenger side went together ok with the 45 and flexible tubing.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psuy44evtv.jpg

The ECU will mount to the battery tray, just like it was in the donor truck. Just had to trim the plastic a bit to get it to sit in there correctly.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psvwrzuwh2.jpg

The harness is sitting on the engine and hopefully my son will get that routed this week while I'm on the road.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps5mebs1y9.jpg

Getting real close to firing it up. Need to get the starter in, finish installing the harness/ECU, wire the fuel pump, get a mass airflow sensor (forgot about that part until this weekend) and put some gas in it. Maybe next weekend, IF I can get the required parts by then.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

You mind sharing the brand with part number and such for that fuel pump?

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

No problem, it was a walbro GSS342 in tank universal pump. 255 LPH high pressure. I did modify the new sending unit by removing the round base plate from the bottom of the unit that kept the pump from lining up with the outlet tube and prevented the pick up from mounting to the bottom of the pump properly. It's a universal pump so not made specifically to fit this sending unit.

The GSL392 pump is the inline version of the same pump.

On another note, I need to bring the harness back for an alteration. He made it to mount the ECU either inside the cab or on the passenger side and I'm mounting it like it was on the donor truck, near the battery on the driver side. The starter solenoid was replaced at a shop that repairs starters and alternators. He said the solenoid is the same as the ones used on a forklift but I didn't get a part number. They are available on ebay or other online retailers though. Even walmart.com had them listed for about $15.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

The harness maker wasn't interested in altering the harness to help me out at all but offered to let me return it. He wasn't happy about it and didn't understand why I just wouldn't mount it somewhere else. I guess I'm just obstinate. Anyway, got a refund and shopped around for a harness. Decided to get the painless wiring harness #60217, which is cheaper anyway. Summit racing has a $100 rebate on it right now. I ordered some new turbo mufflers for the truck as well, since I was already shopping.

So no start up this weekend, but soon enough. Tomorrow I go back to the junkyard to get what I need for the air intake and MAF sensor.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Did you reuse the original fuel tank and Did you have to do any cutting or anything to the fuel tank?

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

You can use the original fuel tank if you want but the 87 and newer tanks are set up for an in tank fuel pump for EFI with a sump built into it. I bought a new tank and sending unit with 3 lines. One is the supply and the pump connects to it, one is for the return line and one is a vent. No cutting involved. If you use an earlier fuel tank without the sump you "might" have issues with the pump sucking air when the fuel level is low, but I've used a non-sumped tank in my 71 for years with no problems.

I didn't work on this project this weekend. I did get to the junkyard and got the air intake tubing and air box with mass air flow sensor though. The new harness and mufflers will be here soon. Unfortunately my job will be in the way of making much progress on this over the next couple weeks.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Its been a couple weeks! Hows your progress coming??

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

Not great!!

I was out of town for work a lot. And spent time on some other projects. I'm shipping the ECU out soon for reflash. The harness is getting settled into place. I got the new air intake but still need to get the MAF sensor. I'll probably have to plug the steam vent line rather than my redneck plumbing job because it's in the way of the air intake. Then wiring, wiring and more wiring.

Also plucking away at the rust repairs. I'll probably get the inner rocker for the front passenger door done soon. Maybe tonight. And I have new mufflers to get installed, the old blown apart ones are cut out.

Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
 

HG I got the walbro 342 and an 87 sender unit. I got a problem with the wires matching up. Did you have this same problem?

There is a post from 2/22 showing my pump and sending unit wiring. Basically you have 2 wires for the pump and 2 for the level indication. You can use a common ground. On the outside I think the ground can go directly to the frame. Depends on how the power lead for the pump is. Some use a ground wire to the pump, some don't. They use a chassis ground. I've seen both.
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