Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Yesterday we flipped the bed over to hit the underneath. Paint/body dude is doing a real nice job on this:

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Interesting work! What is that white patch past the truck bed? Is it a light or did you blank it off in MSPaint to hide the exotic dancer standing there? :p

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Okay I give, why interesting? I don't claim to know much about body & paint, but from what I've seen & heard, the painter is legit.

Heck yes it's a stripper. Two matter of fact, a blonde and brunette. That and a very old MG. I figure the painter wouldn't appreciate me posting his license plate.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

I would have said deflector shield, keeps the floor and the shop spot less. Good progress on your new truck.....Happy Thanksgiving.....Ed.

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Just interesting, what with all the nice work on everything you are doing. Not that particular post.

You're nice about his privacy. I see people posting stuff they shouldn't all over the internet.

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Ah, thanks Steeveedee. I'm paranoid you know ;).


Well, today I figure to build a platform, so we can lay the cab on its back. I'll link it up to the cab cart............. I built a cart for the front clip, and it served its purpose, but I don't figure to need it anymore, since the painter now has the hood and he's ready for the inner fenders too........... In other terms, build it, tear it down and build a new one............ Fun, cough! Think I'll change my signature from "money pit" to resource intensive.:chevy:

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

I could have used the cart I built for the front clip, by just cutting the posts. But I ended up taking most of it apart to build the platform. The cart wasn't designed for it. The width was perfect, but it was 7" longer than I'd prefer. That and I wanted to use 4x4s, more bolts, and my other casters.

The cart had 3/4" ply for shelving, but in the end another 30 bucks. At some point I'll add stakes to hang the fenders (space is a premium), and probably some eye bolts to strap the cab down. With the foam rubber I'm using on top the platform, it's level with the cab cart.

Ended up cutting some threaded rods, so the "carts" disconnect from either side. Access would be a real *%(*&%. I thought the 2/4s used to bolt up the platform would give the separation I was looking for, but the bolt heads were a "direct" fit against the cab. So I mounted 3/4" ply onto the cab cart. That worked out well, because I drilled through the ply instead of the cart.

2/6" was an accident, BTW, :lol: I figured it might come as an option to link the platform to the cart, and as soon as I slapped it on, I realized the platform is widest side to side, not front to back..HA!

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Just the engine and transmission to go. Like everything else I've found, the front and rear suspension is easy. One of the best pieces of advice I got was secure the coil springs with a chain.

I'll pull the engine and transmission after Christmas for a stripped frame. This was an excellent truck to learn on. Less factory rivets for the ball joints, I didn't cut or drill a single fastener, and no torch. Even with rear leaf springs.

That and outside a few additions for all things recreational, the truck I bought 29 years ago was unmolested. A lot of research, and the 67-72 encyclopedia allowed me to retrace what was my and the former mechanic's undoing.

At this point I'm giving much consideration to having everything blasted & powder coated, including the frame.

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Pulling the engine Saturday with some assistance, but today I pulled the transmission. So easy with the transmission jack.

Interesting set of bolts for the transmission to block. Can't swear they're factory, because we pulled the engine once. From my observation, we were real good about using the same bolts, and none were added.

Two (Grade 8) 9/16 flange bolts. Bolt threads are 3/8-16 x 1.3/16, of which 5/16" is shaft. Heads are stamped with a circle.

One (Grade 5) 9/16 flange bolt. Bolt threads are 3/8-16 x 1.3/16, of which 5/16" is shaft. Head is stamped "A".

Two 9/16 flange bolts. Bolt threads are 3/8-16 x 1.3/16, of which 5/16" is shaft. These are unusual, because though they're flange bolts, the heads are not recessed. That and they have four markings, so I can't say what grade. The heads are stamped "IiL P SiB".

One (Grade 5) 9/16 flange bolt. Bolt threads are 3/8-16 x 1.1/4", and no shaft. Head is stamped "M". This bolt was used to retain the transmission dipstick tube and vacuum retainers.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Bolt pics please :)

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:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

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Couple simple items left for a stripped frame. Let the build begin

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Sorry I’m late to this party. It is literally my new favorite thing. What a resource. Thanks for sharing. Can’t wait for more. Outstanding work.

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Thank you Iron and welcome. Had my gauge cluster "T-Boned". It will be a good day when installed. Before and after

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"Had my gauge cluster "T-Boned"."

Haha, I think I like that ;)

I appreciate you Tony and thank you again. Nice to see what your up to on the project.

Take care,
TBONE aka Tom

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Project is going no where, that's my report:lol: I have to clean the lower control arms and transmission crossmember and it's too damn cold of late and I'll pass. Waiting on 10" locking casters for make-shift axles, so I can roll the frame to clean and then it's off for powdercoat.

I managed to peak into the heads for casting numbers. I knew they were replaced with the rebuild. They're matching high performance heads, apparently installed on Camaro and Corvette 396/427 BBC. Word is 10:1 compression instead of 8.5:1 with the original heads. Couldn't tell you why.

For what it's worth, date code translation. I looked this info. up once already, but lost it. Think I'll save it this time;)

http://chevellestuff.net/qd/head_casting_by_year.htm

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I knew that one day I'd be able to back this into the driveway again. It just came sooner than expected. The wheels are smaller than expected too, but it does have a nice stance;)

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OT: This is EXACTLY like my first car, stick, color and all. Has to be one of the funnest cars to drive on Earth. If parts were available, which they're not by any measure, and I had to choose between that and my project..............don't tell my truck I said so - it wouldn't be an easy choice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rywD5tOQTI0

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Not much going on, the weather has been bad and I can't make real progress until the frame is washed for powder coat. That and some BIG personal life changes. Long story short I've been busy with other things. Looks like I'll be landscaping a yard and setting up another house. Sets me back 2 months.

But I'm not ignoring my truck completely, I've been collecting new replacement hardware, mostly spares, though I've heard it's a good idea to replace lock washers. I've also read it's best to replace the prevailing torque lock nuts, and I'm doing just that. It's that or use lock washers, I prefer the nuts. What an expensive project, the "spare" hardware wasn't even cheap. I'll strip the replacement hardware and have it plated (or coated) with the rest.

On a side, I read a report that says lock washers are near worthless, if not defeat the purpose. Can't say if credible, but I'm building the truck as it left the factory. Less the missing frame/crossmember rivets anyway;)

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Got this done today. I'm a weld away from powder coat, though I'm going to have them do the upper control arms first, see if I like their work etc. I MAY have one done in satin and the other in flat.

"Problem" is their sample for satin is a bent-up oil pan and looks like crap. Next to it is a beautiful piece in flat:lol:

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I had my control arms powder coated to see if I like the results. I do, so I'll have the frame and all done by the same place.

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Currently in engine paint prep mode. Really, valve cover mode, they're going to be super. Those shown below aren't them. Long story, the covers in the pic. are off a 396. I believe 402 had the rubber oil plug (aka oil cap). I know mine did, and it will again.

Anyway, here's a picture I took some time ago - it may come in handy for someone.

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Picked up my hardware today. Happy to say it turned out better than I had imagined. I had the original hardware and some new hardware black zinc plated. You can't tell the difference, both new and old came out the same.

Out of all of this just four pieces came out poorly, and all four were bad along the bolt threads.

The truck will have some bling too, which is the clear zinc.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

71SHORTBED402, nice build thread, but could you be a little more detailed? Just kidding - hope everyone has a sense of humor! Awesome thread and love all the documentation. I'm excited to see the finished product. Nice work.

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I've come to the conclusion I'm slow at this:lol: No surprise, I'm slow at everything I'm introduced to. Currently in paint engine mode. Doing the intake, pan, chain cover, valve covers and block separately. Too much for me all at once, I'm brushing it on. At least most of it.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Brushed these with POR-15 engine paint. The pan and valve covers are being done professionally. I really like the paint. Over two hours a coat to paint the block, but music makes it manageable.

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How to distinguish between a low and high horn: EDIT: "J" may not be a low horn.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Great pic! Thanks for posting. Good documentation right there.

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You bet deadhead. I read the low horn was supposed to be marked "L". I suppose some might be. J is pretty close, maybe they screwed up;)

You can also tell a difference by the width of the flat perimeter, which the high horn is wider.

When I first dove into this, I thought high horn meant mounted the highest:lol:

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Just found this on torque specs, lubes and sealers. Can't say it's right, but from what I've read it looks real good. Nice someone did this. Thread locker on cam sprocket bolts? Edit: YEP

https://www.jegs.com/tech-articles/s...ine-specs.html

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Freshened up my actuators today. They're easy to test with the a vacuum/pressure tool. Never used one before today. The engine compartment actuator on project truck had a leak, probably from the sloppy paint job I did long ago. But then I remembered why I bought my driver truck, and it works.

Apparently the actuator at the kick panel is painted for aesthetics and the other is not. There's a stud inserted into the hole in the rod for the outside air door actuator. The hole is open and uses a link on the inside air door actuator. EDIT: The major difference between the actuators is the outside air door actuator uses an internal spring as a return, while the inside door actuator uses an external spring.

On the side, what a great invention.

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It's always the last place you check. And for me, too often it's last chance.

Otherwise not worth the picture, I was cleaning one of these door clips and dropped it. Looked for a few minutes when I realized the dogs had misbehaved, so I walked down to the end of the circle to grab them. Then I cleaned my freaking garage, because I'm going to find it. But NOPE. Checked my shoes and clothes, NOPE. So that's it man, I'm probably over an hour into it and last chance, perhaps it snagged onto my clothes and I dropped it. So I walked the path down to the circle again, didn't see it, turned around and she was right in front of me.

I can't remember if the truck uses 4 or 6, but six I've got. I think they're galvanized. Just happened to have galvanized paint.

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Strange week. First I thought I bought a rare "NOS" piece, but the guy sends me a worn-out piece that looks nothing like the pictures, cuz it aint it. What a comedian.

I finished these intake manifold bolts (below) with POR-15 engine paint yesterday. Never mind the background, that was a failed attempt to spray. I brushed them with happy results. 1" Wooster Pro brush is the ticket, best brush I've used................. I should have finished another 25 parts in black. Was a perfect day to spray, I prepped the parts and hung em, but the hardener Eastwood sent was solid.

FINALLY had a spot on my frame welded up today. Trailer pending, get her powder coated. He welded that and another 8-10 spots on inner fenders, core support etc. Nice work. Dude wanted $25:lol:

Going to be a little slow going for a bit. Ex. was just approved for landscape front and back, and dumb dumb volunteered to lead/labor. It's an "easy" one, I've done much more many times, but too old for this;) Plus it's HOT!

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Excellent documentation! Pretty sure the low note horn has an L on it and the standard has the J. I’ll try to look at mine tomorrow as I have both!

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You guys give me a lot of props for documentation and it's appreciated. Comes with the personality and former profession. It's really a sickness, you don't know the 100th of it. I have a few data sheets, and I wrote some manuals that by some measure has GM manuals beat (more details). Truck specific of course, but they're similar. Glad that's over, though I need to proof read and edit one last time as I build her.

I read "L" was the lower horn too. All I know is mine are stamped "H" (headlight) and "J" (core support rail). It's possible they were switched at some point, but I'd bet the house they're truck original. Wouldn't surprise me a bit there are variances in stamps. Interested to hear what your horns are marked.

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Well, I don’t have a L but I do have a H on my ‘67 C10 Custom. and a D on my ‘68 GMC C&C which are both standard horns. Each of them have the circle on them where the H or L would be but are blank. The high/low horns I have from my ‘68 GMC Custom have H and L inside the circles. IMO you have a high and a standard horn.

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I believe you were the one looking for an N bed bolt for your truck......I put one aside for you last summer I’ll locate it if your still needing it?

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Wow, standard, low and high horns. Thanks for checking. And thanks for the offer, but I scored some "N" bolts off a board member.

Someday I'll have to ID my 72. I do I see two horns however, one mounted below the headlight, and one mounted using the fender to core support bracket that's shaped like a trumpet. Appears original, the truck has an aux. battery tray.

I may have to rethink the "J" being a low note horn. Not much info. out there and I can't find a "J" horn. Low must be "L" and high must be "H" seems to be an over-simplification across vehicles anyway. More than a few notes in the "sea shell" form.

http://www.delcoremyhistory.com/Products/horns.htm

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These were removed from my project truck in 1993 when the engine was rebuilt. They were in a box of mystery parts that were also removed, mostly A/C stuff. They were only a mystery to me - didn't have a clue about most of it.

Be cool to hear someone else has these on their 71ish BBC. SBC chime in too. It's a transmission lines retainer, a dual spark plug wire retainer, which I'm pretty sure it uses a valve cover bolt, and a wire/hose retainer that takes a 3/8" bolt, maybe even a 7/16" bolt.

Edit: middle clip may be for thermostat

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The powder coat place is backed up, but I'm giving someone else a shot, starting out with these parts................ Post helps me ID stuff;)

Received the hinges back from Willie, the hood parts powder coated. He did a nice job. Springs are NOS. For what it's worth, and since it's per Willie it has value, Sea Foam DC-14 Deep Creep Lubricant for hinges. Soak the hood hinges up good before install. He said my hinges were nice considering I never lubricated:lol: Guilty as charged.