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I recall a while ago the wife and I bringing home paint sample squares from Home Depot and holding them up to our walls in our newly built clinically white house. Then we picked our favorite colors and painted the walls with them, sat back and said WTF these colors do not look good here at all, unlike the squares did, ha ha Same goes for what I am doing with car paint, I know it is wasteful and time consuming, but I played the tape off small sections and paint them different colors or textures game before and it just doesn't work for me, more power to you all if it works for you, but if it doesn't you're not alone, ha ha I need to paint an entire darn piece in order for my eyes and pea sized brain to compare them in their entire glory, in this case it also works out since I just happen to have two inner fenders, that doesn't work for hoods (know what I mean) there are different shapes and bends and twists that you can only pick up on the different hues if you cover the entire piece, a flat perfect square or rectangle can lie to you, and by you I mean me so not renting, just telling you all where i am coming from, hope this helps |
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No problem....not cheap, but theres always speed shapes...
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alright, now what? don't we have more paint to test, and need another piece / part to paint?
... 15 minutes after noon - hold my beer! it's off a Square body but it will do (the Russian judge will allow it, ha ha) |
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Just wondering Gregski,have you ever dabbled in painting with a gun with rust paint ?
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I also had two air compressors and like an idiot sold them both so now I am without an air compressor, if you all can recommend one that is good for painting as well as media blasting I am all ears. My only requirement is quiet or extra quiet, I recall seeing one labeled that couple years ago, I forgot where, and I know nothing about one phase, two phase, three phase motors, ha ha. In unrelated news, I brushed on POR15 on both an entire '68 Mustang engine bay and it came out craptacular, and on my '74 C10 engine frame and it's peeling off, and yet I fell for it a third time and brushed it on my Muncie SM465 transmission and that came out a different color than expected! Yes I used their Metal Prep and Cleaner Degreaser as instructed. Very disappointed in that product, their motto seems to be more focused on marketing and advertising than product quality, and boy do they have a lot of newbs fooled, just my two cents, and my two cents are free, ha ha |
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Por15 is commonly referred to as snake oil....I wouldnt put it on anything...theres a reason you dont see any of the well known builders using it
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today we will shoot our third challenger the KRYLON Color Master (Paint + Primer) with durable Cover Max technology (wtf, it's right there on the can, you can't make this stuff up) Black Satin from Pep Boys.
Honestly I think this is the product that will give our King the KRYLON Rust Tough Enamel Semi Flat a run for the money! I wish I still had the pics of a Satin black truck I saw a while ago that made me a convert, I was a paint it flat black type a guy before then. (I lost the pics when my hard drive failed) Note: In order to compare apples to apples we keep using the same RUST-OLEUM Rusty Metal light gray primer (although we like the brown one better, ha ha) Initial Observations: the coverage is ok, but a can would not be enough to do front and back, granted I only sprayed two medium coats on one side in hind sight and under better lighting, I should have done at least three coats, I think this is on the account of this being Primer + Paint all in one can (I am not a fan of that since you get less paint) ~ UPDATE April 29, 2020 per Pep Boys manager who contacted KRYLON this paint has been DISCONTINUED !!! ~ |
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today we were combating finger fatigue using our Bondo Mar-Hyde cordless WiFi aerosol pistol grip trigger in a handsome black finish (also available in yellow and red, probably the amateur imitation knock offs, ha ha)
fear not this is not some cheap pot metal apparatus, this is some cheap plastic, held together by not one but two fake plastic screws LOL - but hey it works, and it will have you doing side to side sweeps with a big dumb grin on your face, hence the face mask |
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ok, so here is a side by side comparison of the first Challenger aka the RUST-OLEUM Custom Shop Matte finish from Home Depot (left) vs the third Challenger aka the KRYLON Color Master Satin from Pep Boys (right)
#1 vs #3 they look similar in this photo but in person the one on the left has that strange greenish tint (scroll up in the thread for a better pic) |
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and this is a biased comparison of #2 and #3
I say that because we altered / touched up #2 aka RUST-OLEUM Professional Semi-Gloss on the account of it being too shinny so it is not a fair comparison, (although I must say it does look good now, but I don't want to shoot semi gloss only to have to flatten it with Satin clear, I hope you guys follow that logic and concur) KRYLON Color Master Satin is on the left and the flattened RUST-OLEUM Professional Semi-Gloss is on the right (sorry about that) |
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OK, I have one more inner fender (ha ha) so I think I am going to do one more test and paint this one the original KRYLON Rust Tough Semi Flat (aka our control, our favorite hue and what started this whole debacle) because to be honest with you I have never seen that paint on a large piece, I have only painted small stuff with it like brackets, valve covers, etc. the air cleaner housing maybe being the biggest piece.
Again to stay consistent I will use the RUST-OLEUM light gray primer, though I realize one of our goals is to see if we can stay in the same brand so ideally we would use KRYLON primer as well. |
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speaking of Satin black I accidentally stumbled upon this cheapo Harbor Freight setup Rust-Oleum outdoors paint job by one of our own, so I figure I linky link it here:
My Rustoleum Paint Job Adventure! |
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so I told my buddy Pontiac Mike about the little setback with the KRYLON Satin black paint being discontinued and he said Rust-Oleum Satin black is what has worked well for him. To which I replied what? they don't offer a satin black, and then I went a Googling to prove I was right, and I found this, product number: 7777830
Test Result: Too glossy! I honestly feel like this is their Semi Gloss formula just in a different can with a "Satin" label on it. |
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so I decided to respray the very first inner fender I painted with that RUST-OLEUM Matte finish that came out with the slight green hue
I used the favorite KRYLON RUST TOUGH Semi Flat on it part # 9203, and it came out Amazeballz! Man I love this paint. Review: so it doesn't spray / cover as well as the RUST-OLEUMs. It sprays very light and very misty and thin, you have to get used to doing a bunch of light coats, the first coat looks like you shot guide coat for sending |
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So I went out and bought out all of the cans that both Pep Boys and O'Reilly's had of the KRYLON Rust Tough Semi Flat 9203.
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Too bad Coast to Coast hardware is long gone. They had a great line of rattle can paint.
I painted several motorcycles in the 90's with it. When the stores got fewer I would drive to outlying towns to get it. They didn't seem to keep many cans on the shelf. Some times I would happen by a store and I would go in and buy all the gloss black. I use a fair amount of rustoleum today. I like to buy the quart cans and spray it out of a siphon feed gun. The primer does not sand very well. It stays fairly soft and plugs up the paper. The best satin I think I ever seen was the rustoleum I bought in quarts at the cheapo. I sprayed my suburban with it and it looked great. It lasted a long time. I'm reworking the truck now and its still on the passenger side. It is still in good shape 10 years later. It was kind of hard to wash. It likes to hold dirt and water just beads up on it. Actually I think I still have a tank Coast to Coast paint. I'm going to dig it out. |
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I'm curious how the krylon will hold up to the Rust-Oleum.I really like Rust-Oleum my only complaint is it takes forever to dry.
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valve covers wheels front bumper air cleaner housing heater box |
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I know this is an old thread but any new info/updates? I am having some issues painting some parts.
I am painting my clutch/brake pedal assembly. Its taken apart. I wire wheeled the assembly down to pretty much bare metal. I used rustoleum self etching primer I had left over. Gave it about an hour to dry (label says topcoat after 30 min). I topcoated with rustoleum auto enamel and it immediately splotched up like it was a bad reaction. Like orange peel extreme. I guess I should have waited overnight for the primer to dry? I am going to start over (should be fun cleaning it all again!) Still going with those paint options? Brown rustoleum rust primer and krylon semi flat? Did you use the cheaper version of the primer and have good results? Also, with your etching process, you just paint the home depot version on and let it sit overnight? |
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Thank you for that info. Looks like I will strip these down and start over. I noticed the cheaper rustoleum version had different chemicals than the auto version so I figured I would ask if they were similar. Glad I asked.
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Yeah I looked at the SDS and information. The solvents are different. I posted the pics. Probably way more info than you wanted to know. I wouldn’t be surprised if the people at rustoleum had no idea what they are talking about. Unfortunately that’s what I have run across trying to get information from big companies.
The first 2 are the regular consumer rust primer and the second 2 are the automotive rust primer |
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The Professional one https://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/7569838.pdf The Automotive one https://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/249320.pdf yes we will drive ourselves crazy trying to figure this out as they don't list the chemicals in the same order, and I think my Automotive sheet does not even match yours, ha ha |
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One of them is for the “ automotive” red rust primer and the other one is the 7769830 white can “consumer” red colored rust primer that you listed as a cheaper alternative.
It looks like they are similar but not exactly the same formula. Not sure what the effects would be. |
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Post #26
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can you compare that line to the automotive and if they are the same then I will make an update to Post #26 saying it is NOT the same formula appreciate you doing all this, I guess I am just too trust worthy |
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I think the professional looks closer to the automotive can vs the white can but not copy and paste exacts.
What are your current go-tos? Which primer and too coat (I don’t like glossy either) Also do you have a preferred chassis paint? |
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I painted my pedals and they turned out amazeballz. Brake Pedal https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...1&d=1424568878 https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...1&d=1424568878 Clutch Pedal https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...1&d=1424569754 https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...1&d=1424569754 |
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I used soap and water and then brake clean and let dry overnight. Self etching Primer went on great. But the top coat I used rustoleum auto enamel and it orange peeled bad. You could tell there was a reaction. Like painting bare aluminum. It just spots and pools. I waited an hour and it said 30min. I will do overnight next time.
What was your process for those pedals? |
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first pic - original custom Rust Patina second pic - after using a 4" angle grinder with a wire brush third pic - brushed on some Phosphoric acid to get into nooks and cranies fourth pic - not drying paint inside the house on our beautiful hardwood floor, honey sounds like I maybe did not use primer but I am sure I used baking soda to neutrolize the acid followed by denatured alcohol and then that KRYLON Semi Flat paint I would just skip the primer and see how the KRYLON paint takes to the metal, go about six super light coats (you should see no color change after the first one, it's just to make it sticky type of thing) cruise through my Restoring Rusty thread (it's only a 1,000 pages but has a Table of Contents on the first post) I paint a bunch of parts there step by step |
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Great info. I will surely check it out. I was going to ask about hard to reach places and rust. Sounds like phosphoric acid. I’ll have to experiment with that. Anything to watch for using that stuff? Trial and error? I assume less is better than more
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Acid cleaning the bench seat frame https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...1&d=1630025540 using baking soda to wash off the bench seat frame https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...1&d=1630025708 I like to follow up with a wire wheel on a 4.5" angle grinder (good high RPMs) a lot of guys use a drill but that is not even close to being as effective these took five minutes to wire wheel https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...1&d=1631402893 https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...1&d=1631402893 KRYLON only no primer https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...1&d=1631466198 and yes the acid got into the nooks and cranies, manual hand wire brushes help, flat screw driver as a scraper helps, use what ever you gots bro |
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I have learned alot from this thread Gregski.
Thanks. One thing I could add that may help Mbeef61 I worked in a Plant plant for a Few years, For a Major manufacture of Automobiles. They would give us a (Crater Test) They would paint a Panel and hold it below our shirt sleeve. Then shake our shirt sleeve and if the paint fisheyed it was Us causing the issue. If a certain kind of underarm deoderant was used or Armor-All or Tire shiner was on a persons clothes, It would cause Paint defects down the line. Also if any hint of silicone sealant is in the area will cause an issue with paint quality. |
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hey there, it's been a while, I'm sure we are all Picasos by now
so wanted to share something with you all, I just got back from Oh' Reallys and check it out, OUR favorite KRYLON Semi-Flat got a face lift, is it the same paint? is it the same formula? is this KRYLON's idea of "innovation"? I hate it when they pull krap like this, took me a while to find it on they shelf, ha ha this is what I was talking about in my earlier posts, that when you find a rattle can spray paint that you like, buy it all, buy all of it off the shelf, ha ha, cause you never know what may happen this appears to sport the same RTA9203 part number |
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