Re: Yet another GMC build
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I think 1.5” is going to work. Looks like I can come down another 1/2 to 3/4” but since I’m missing several parts of the truck right now I’m going to hold off adjusting the coils until fully assembled. I think I have enough space for the alignment guy to get his equipment in the rear wheels now that I’m not tucking tire as much.
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Re: Yet another GMC build
okgmc4 where did you get the insert for the hood from?
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Re: Yet another GMC build
okgmc4 nice job and thanks
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okgmc4 now i feel really stupid for asking again old age must be kicking in big time
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Re: Yet another GMC build
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Filter box coming along. Yep it’s huge. And a little heavy. But the hood still shuts. And it should grab all that cool air coming in the hood hole.
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Re: Yet another GMC build
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It seems there’s a third option. Cut the fender lip panel in half and reposition the halves so that the lips line up again. About 1/4” on one end and 1 1/8” on the other. Now for a ton of welding, grinding, and backfilling.
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okgmc4 i was wondering if you would have good closeup pics of insert
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Re: Yet another GMC build
wondering if a larger, maybe, triangular shaped patch may be better on the front area than having 2 welds that long so close together. since there is no body line really close it may warp and cause you more headaches. do you weld, then hammer on dolly on top of the weld to help with the warping?
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Re: Yet another GMC build
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-Josh |
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Re: Yet another GMC build
if sticking with the same size hole as currently shown, i would cut a strip that fits well, using your panel clamps. tack it in place, staggering the tacks around the edge so as not to allow the heat from the tacks to warp or pull the metal and also hammer on dolly each tack whie still hot. keep making tacks until they are starting to get close enogh together so a short weld can be made to connect the tacks, then do short welds with the same mindset as the tasks. weld, hammer on dolly, allow to cool, move to the other end of the patch, weld, hammer on dolly, allow to cool, etc. some guys will use compressed air to cool and, I have done that myself, but I always try to allow the panel to absorb some of the heat first and then I cool the whole panel from a distance with the air rather than do a close up blast on the hot spot. that is because mig welds are usually harder than a tig or a gas weld would be and work harden quickly which can cause cracking later. hammer on dolly when the weld is hot expands the weld area so when itt cools it is roughly the right size again. it is a hard thing to not get overzealous and not allow the piece to cool enough before welding again. martinsr has a good analogy for that, do something else at the same time to keep you busy and then don't weld again until it is cool enough to stick your tongue on. I have a few pieces of flattened copper pipe that I use as heat sinks. magnets also work but if too close they disrupt the electrical current from your welder. tacking a strip on the back side may help for heat absorption but I would remove it when done so as not to be a moisture trap. actually, a strip on the back side connecting fore to aft may be a good idea so the panel doesn try to get shorter on you when welding. I would just stress to do a few tacks on the front patch, a few on the rear patch, then walk away and do sometthing else for a bit until the panel is all the same temp.
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Re: Yet another GMC build
if welding a strip on the backside, then filling the gap from the front side, do you mean with another strip that fit the hole? like you would end up with a double layer area? I would pass on that idea personally as it becomes a stiffener and may affect the flexibility of the panel and it's ability to regain it's shape if someone were to use the step or whatever.
thats just me, your truck so you gotta do it your way. there are also heat absorbing pastes you can get at the local welding supply shop. I have used them in the firefighter field for doing required rescue hot work next to a victim on vehicular extrication calls etc |
Re: Yet another GMC build
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I had a strip rust out over a bed brace in my 69. I doubled the clamps with longer bar stock to get it straight. But that was 2.5” wide and this is only 1/4 so it would be hard to do that. I thought a 1/2” strip on the back would stop the shrink. Hadn’t really thought about flex. Will have to give it some thought. Although I don’t have pics, I cut a patch for the rear in one piece from my junk fender and so far that is going well, but I’ve only tacked one side and it’s still an inch wide:
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Re: Yet another GMC build
I did something similar to that on my roof, a lot longer though.
when tacking I always try to tack 2 spots across from each other and jump around the patch to different places so the weld doesnt pull the patch out of alignment. post up some pics when you get a chance. dont think too much into it or you'll be afraid to tackle it again, haha. |
Re: Yet another GMC build
a lot of th work is getting the patch to fir well. I have made the patch just a bit bigger a few times and then adjusted the body part to fit thw patch. epsecially for the round holes, drill the hole bigger with a step drill to fit the size of patch I have.
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Re: Yet another GMC build
sorry, fat fingers so spelling mistakes.
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Re: Yet another GMC build
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Re: Yet another GMC build
That's a lot of work just to help out the alignment shop. You could have removed the fenders for alignment.
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Obviously a sucker for punishment. Lol.
Also helps get the wheels off for a flat or service work. |
Re: Yet another GMC build
okgmc4 thanks for postig the pics
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On U tube is "Fitzee's Fabrications", go there and look for his video "how to make more patch panels with ease". Tons of good ideas with this guy for metal work.
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Re: Yet another GMC build
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Getting closer. Course I’ll still have one more to do.
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Re: Yet another GMC build
Well, that one looks pretty nice. Good progress!
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