Re: trans fluid to radiator fitting
 

It sounds like you need a hydraulic fitting. #8 (1/2") straight thread o-ring male to #6 (3/8) JIC male. 6400-06-08 on the attached page.

http://www.hydraulicsdirect.com/Prod...yABEgL4u_D_BwE

If that is the case, any hydraulic shop will have this fitting.

Re: trans fluid to radiator fitting
 

I think the #8(1/2") end with the O-ring is right, but the other end of that fitting is 3/8" right? Don't think that would fit my line as it needs to be the same size thread as the other end ( 1/2" 20 ).

Thank You,

-klb

Re: trans fluid to radiator fitting
 

I have suggested that you send the radiator back...

I have suggested you bypass the radiator trans oil cooler totally and use an external one...

If the above is not possible...

Take the radiator and the brass original fitting to your cooler hose to

Jim Lager at Pirtek in Dallas...
3131 Irving Blvd, Suite 600
Dallas, TX 75247 (214) 631-8600

To those folk recommending he just screw in the original hard line, the first pic on the post shows high pressure hydraulic fittings as the connectors on the cooler lines....

In the past two weeks, I have ordered and have had delivered two of these radiators from legitimate suppliers...one I fitted out with the first hydraulic style fitting I recommended...the other was a direct hard line screw in...BOTH WERE PERFECT FITS....

This radiator is a hybrid for some reason....if Pirtek cant supply a fitting, you will have to run an external cooler...

:waah::waah::waah::mm::mm::mm::chevy::chevy::chevy:

Re: trans fluid to radiator fitting
 

I sent the video to the guy that gave me the previous information regarding the intentionally loose female bungs in the transmission cooler. He replied with another contact within the company. I'll contact him tomorrow. We shall see what that's all about.

Right now I'm proceeding as if this Champion Cooling radiator is not going to be used at all in this build. I don't expect to get any resolution and will simply use the old radiator with the aluminum shroud and 14 inch fans. If the company comes through somehow with a replacement that is sufficient or a refund then that will be fine.

What's just baffling is that I have in my possession a fitting that has 1/2-20
male inverted flare on one end and 1/2-20 37 degree male on the other. Pretty sure this is not a one-off fitting made special. I can't use it with the new rad because a) the radiator I have has F-d up bungs and/or b) the flare is too deep down in there for my fitting to reach it before it bottoms out at the top of the bung ( i.e. my brass fitting is too short on the radiator side to reach down far enough into the new radiator ).

Thanks everybody for trying to help me here. This has been a very frustrating experience, continues to be in fact!

-klb

Re: trans fluid to radiator fitting
 

A radiator shop can solder in a new bung for you. I have a Champion Rad as well, for my LS swap project, and I believe I have the same bungs as you do. I intend to take mine to a local shop and have them solder in a bung for me to my desired fitting specs.

Re: trans fluid to radiator fitting
 

These radiator tanks are aluminum and cannot be soldered...

TIG process is used to "weld" in the bungs...

:sumo::sumo::sumo:

Re: trans fluid to radiator fitting
 

The guys at ChampionCooling have given me the choice to either send this radiator back and be done outright or let them build another one with bungs that I can use and/or that will work for me ( they sent me a set of alternate bungs to test against my brass fittings ). They have gone out of their way to try and find a solution that didn't require the above by way of an adapter, but... no joy unfortunately.

The real problem here though is that my lines are AN -5 and that is something that isn't available in terms of an adapter/fitting from their radiator or really any radiator to my current lines.

So, I'm going to use my old radiator for now just to get this thing running and driving again. Later on I'll add an external cooler and R&R all the lines when I go to swap out the rad.

-klb

Re: trans fluid to radiator fitting
 

I've encountered the same thing with a Champion CC369 radiator. I ordered the "black" adapters to go to 3/8" JIC, and they felt loose. I thought it was the fitting because I mic'd the male threads at 0.492". Then I decided to flare and bend tubing, so I ordered 1/2"-20 stainless steel tube nuts. They fit loosely also. Then I looked inside the bung, to see a cone and an O-ring. WTH???
This is my go to for hydraulic fittings:
https://www.discounthydraulichose.co...read_guide.pdf

If you'll notice the male threads of the 1/4" BSPP -04 fittings are listed at 0.52". I've ordered these, and I'll be seeing how they fit. My issue will be that I have to go back to using JIC fittings instead of inverted flare.

My point would be that Champion has no business selling radiators specifically for our trucks "C/K series, 67-72, L6 or V8, 2 core, 3 core, and 4 core" without radiator supports and without the proper inverted flare bungs. I made the decision for myself to save the shipping fees to return the radiator just to get my money back and then pay Be Cool $600 for a "direct fitting" radiator. I had a TIG welder weld in aluminum to fit the factory support saddles, and it fits perfect now. So I have to live with the situation of these improper bungs because I can't return it.

As you can see, I'm posting about this same issue 6 years later, so Champion must have known about it, but chose not to do anything. Just keep in mind that the issue isn't China, it's American Corporations choosing the cheap labor. Shame on me for choosing the cheap product. <<<I can delete this last part if it's improper in this forum.

Re: trans fluid to radiator fitting
 

.

I ended up selling the Champion unit for a loss...the fans that came with the Champion were generic 40 dollar fans and were insufficient...ended up buying spal fans to replace them at quite an expense. All the money I spent on the Champion solution was wasted except for the 100 bucks I got from a forum member to take the thing off my hands!

YMMV...

-klb

Re: trans fluid to radiator fitting
 

I also ordered a "exact fit" radiator. It didn't even match up with the factory hold downs.
Never even got to the fittings end of things.
Ended up sending it back.
I ended up with a Dewitt radiator for a LS conversion. Ordered it in black, like an original, even though it's Aluminum. I came with the Spal fans. It was not cheap. But it fit the first time and saved me hours of frustration. Building on of these trucks is difficult enough with out the "It fits" but really doesn't.

I had similar issues with my fuel tank and SS brake lines.
Caveat Emptor

Re: trans fluid to radiator fitting
 

Here is my oem trans lines to rad, this is the fitting required

If you need measurements I'm willing to get air in the lines to help you out


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...25c2fb4d_c.jpg17081807792988619008885623478012 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/97391199@N06

Re: trans fluid to radiator fitting
 

I bought a champion 4 core with fans for a 72 gmc about 18 months ago. Fittings are perfect for trans lines and all hoses fit correctly as well. The mounts were a little shallow allowing the factory radiator mount to make contact with the end tanks. Some very minor grinding on the factory mounts corrected. It is possible the rubber pads in my mounts had compressed allowing the contact. Overall the fit was remarkably good. I do not recomend using their pigtail to the fans. There is no lock tab and when the connector gets warm it looses its ability to stay tightly connected. This causes the connection to loose good contact and you get low amperage to the fan and will damage it. I had this happen. Champion sent me a replacement fan deeply discounted to replace my damaged part free shipping overnight. These are Chinese parts so you must look things over and not take for granted that everything has been tested for all applications. Having done the conversion, I recommend not using the electric fans unless you have a specific reason to do so. The fans stress the 50 year old electric system. The alternator if old will not keep up. New ones for external voltage regulator just bearly meet the demand and if you want the factory battery guage to work correctly requires a pretty deep dive into the main harness. It can be made to work correctly but it is not as simple as adding a jump off the fuse link connector on the fender to the fan relay as most would likely do.