Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

I should post the pictures that I have on my phone. The epoxy worked better than expected. What its going to come down to is if I was able to sand it smooth enough to get a good seal at the o-ring. Since I ran into trouble with my engine it will be longer until I can test it out. I'll post up the details from the stuff for you too. Once I get to test the intake and determine if my repair works I'll put together a how-to or something.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Dayj1, Thanks for the MAP info. I had Brendon at lt1swap do my tune and he told me the MAP shouldn't matter so I'll just run the truck one like you said and then try the car one and see if there is any difference.

Dayj1 & Brewcity, thanks for the injector info. Someone on LS1tech told me that I needed EV6 injector connectors so that's why I was getting so confused. I think I'll try ordering some new pig tails off of ebay this week. With work the way it is its easier to order some than try and get to a junk yard before it closes. Do you guys recommend any specific fuse box or relays for the swap harness? I'm still stripping things down but I hope to be getting it back together soon.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

I had a harness built for me (engine side) and it came with the relays and its own little fusebox. I like that it was much smaller, and cleaned up the look alot for where my box has to be mounted (directly on the inner fenderwell, everything is directly accessible).

In some cases, I'd also consider what we did on the body side. You end up pulling out so many engine wires, that the old body harness starts to look "hollow"...since you've cut some of the wires, looms etc. In my case, the body wiring had been modified before, a common story. This means random radio wires, splices-on-splices, and colors going everywhere.
We decided that it was worth it just to gut the thing, and re-wire the hole truck ground up. It sounds daunting, and we had the help of an industrial wiring rack and a 35year master wiring tech.....but that actually makes it sound worse. With a simple approach, anyone can do it. We simplified the whole thing, and allowed room for our new gauges, stereo etc. It all went to a simple 12-slot fuse block, mounted on the firewall in the cab. Makes troubleshooting easier, and my wiring diagram is a simple printout from PhotoShop.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

You can use either MAP sensor, just make sure the parameters for the one you are using are correct within the tune. If you use the truck OS, then they should be correct (which is what dayj1 is referring to). I would still double check to be sure...

Also, they make EV1 to EV6 adapter pigtails.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Here is my update. So I went to a plastics company and got an epoxy that is designed to work with thermoplastics (nylon 66). I have $0 in this LS6 intake so I tossed $30 at the epoxy just to try it and so far I am impressed. This stuff cures hard and I couldn't get it to come off of the plastic once its on there. I am 100% confident that this stiff can fix an intake. The repair is going to come down to my ability to get the opening round and smooth so the oring can seal. My engine build won't be ready to run for a while so I won't have any official results until the end of the summer. I also need to paint the intake to cover up the repair. Here are the pics.

Broken Parts
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6bf119be.jpg
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...pseb41495a.jpg

First things was to wash the filthy parts. Then I used the Plexus MA310 thermoplastic epoxy to fix the broken nipple for the vacuum. It was broke off and split so I repaired it and then sanded it smooth with some flexable sand paper left over from a plumbing job.
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps852d2d87.jpg
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps81f0d676.jpg

Then I had to repair the intake by fixing the split circle and then dropping it in the front of the intake so it would fall to the rear and could be attached. The key here is to use a dremmel to smooth out the jagged edges so you can get things to settle into place.
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...psb36ead92.jpg

Then sand smooth
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps79061d40.jpg
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...pscdd07976.jpg

So I am going to paint it next, then reinsert the MAP port, and then test it out. this fall when I have some concrete results I will write up a how to or something.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Figured I'd share some pics since I didn't have any earlier. Not much to show but things are going to start happening now. The chassis is disassembled and at the blaster and now I'm rebuilding my engine since I found rust in the cylinders.

Here is the bare frame. Its hanging off the lift to make the finish welding on the bottom easy.
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps88f9b9e2.jpg

And here is my motor. I pulled the head off and found an inch and a half of water in the #6 cylinder because the guy who sold it to me left it outside for a while. I got it really cheap and now I can build it up like new.
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps48eabf8d.jpg

And since there are boring pics I figured I'd share a taste of things to come. My next LS swap will be on this 67 GTO convertible. Its been my dads since the early 80's and it just hasn't done anything other than be a shelf for 30 years. We plan to keep the stock transmission so that the His/Her shifter can be kept but then drop a 6.0L in it. The stock motor is gone so LS it is. We unburied it since this pic was taken.
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps940a548c.jpg

I'm in a picture uploading mood so here is a pic of my truck working. I am building my LS powered chassis to swap this body on to but for now I'm using it in its stock form. Max speed of 55mph with the pedal to the floor! I took it to the landfill to drop off some stuff.
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2276e051.jpg

Stay tuned, I'm close to done with the chassis and wiring for the engine. Then the engine build and hopefully the first fire up before my baby comes in August.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Thanks for the step by step, and the product info.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

glad you found the water before firing it.

a hone job on these blocks will amaze you. I just got a 200K+ mile block back from the shop with a 400/200 hone and it looks (and mics) awesome.

down side to that of course is an actual bore-over will cost you an arm and a leg. my guy quoted "double" and I didn't even ask.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

I think if I have to go as far as boreing the engine I'll go buy a new engine. I'm hoping just a hone will do the truck. I guess I won't know for a while. How much did your hone cost? When you put it back together did you get to reuse your stock pistons? This is all new to me but what is a 400/200 hone?

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

This is where I got it from.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=24934

This talks about the product and had good info. PDF page 31 document page 177 is one place. Its been a few weeks since I read it.
http://www.on-hand.com/Manuals/How%2...ndPlastics.pdf

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

oops i misread the receipt. they started with a 280 grit hone and finish with a 400 grit over the top of that. Cost: $90. total for hot tank, hone, cam bearings $275 plus change.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Back again.. So I have a few more questions about the wiring. what gauge wire are you guys using to go from your battery to your stand alone fuse block? Then what amp fuses are you running for different systems?

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

mostly 16 awg, with 12 awg to and from the power side of the high current relays (fans, starter)

basically copied this, with some added stuff
http://lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

keep us posted on that goat. missing my mid 60's a-body more every day ('64 olds 442)

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Will do. I'll either do an Alternate Tinkerings thread or just keep a link to another forum in my signature.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Small update. I was going to run the truck accessory drive because of cost. the F-body or corvette stuff was too expensive after you buy the PS pump and everything else. Well a local auction came and I scored a box for $45. In side this box was a complete LS2 accessory drive from a 2006 GTO, the fuel rail covers, oil pan, exhaust manifolds, and some other stuff. Ill save some for the 1967 GTO LS engine swap and sell some but that accessory drive is going on my truck. Its the same spacing as the F-body stuff so now I'll have the clearance I need. I'm excited to get all that for cheap.

I also got my fuel tank from Brothers truck parts today. My frame is still at the sand blasters and my uncle is going to build my motor for me. Hopefully it will be running by Christmas.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Progress has been slow but I'm back on track. 7 weeks ago I had my first child. My little girl has been great but it took a while to be able to get up north to work on my project.

For those of you just joining... I have been building an extra chassis so that my truck didn't have to be torn apart as long and I'll just swap the body later.

Anyhow, I loaded up my truck to head up north because my modified chassis had just came back from the sand blasters. My daily driver (a 2000 GMC jimmy) barely had the balls to haul the truck/trailer but it got the job done. Unfortunately I got a flat on my 1950 chevy and had no spare. I have one of those 2 wheel tow dollys so it took two hours to swap a tire from the front to the back and put the flat on the front. Here are some pics of my misery.
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...psfc95b806.jpg

http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...psb6c01862.jpg

http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps53c2a6ab.jpg

We finally made it and I got to start painting the frame and rear end. I have some more parts to paint next time I go up there again but I'm happy with the progress so far. Once I paint the suspension parts I can bolt them back on. My motor is currently getting built so I am happy with where I am at. Here are some pics of the frame. (I used KBC coating its similar to POR15)
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6922f630.jpg

http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps9cce1d49.jpg

Yes I am missing some running board brackets but I'll snag those off my other frame.
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps28db5e09.jpg

Moving on.. My Jimmy started to crap out on me so I finally bit the bullet and got some LS power. On Monday I went and purchased a 2014 Silverado Crew Cab 4x4. Wow what an amazing truck. I was nervous to buy a $47,000 truck but in the end its just an amazing vehicle. I like having room for my family and dogs. The forest green metallic is a pretty color but the pictures don't do it justice because its cloudy. I really like the Gen5 L83 engine.

http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6e4d6349.jpg
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...psc6ef8a7a.jpg
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps87cf7691.jpg
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps1e758935.jpg

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Root, sometimes the big adventures really add to the story of a build. Frame looks good, nice looking truck...Jim

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Buying a extra frame is the only way to go!

I did that with the green 53 and when the truck was completed we had so many extra parts left over that it prompted a build of another truck, the extended cab!!

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

I'm really glad I had two frames. If one of the bodies hadn't been unsaveable I might be doing another too.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

damn the 2014 trucks look nice.
we'll see if they come though in 2015 with the diesel/manual trans colorado like the internets say they will.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

So I was just thinking that this thread started with questions and kinda turned into a build thread. I wonder if I should request a title change to something more suited.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Root, since you have your regular thread on the build, I would stop posting on this one, unless it pertained to the engine. This has a lot of good info for people checking on engine stuff. Just my 2 cents worth:metal:...Jim

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Well I haven't posted in the LS section in a long time per the above request but there has been a turn in my progress. My so called "good" engine was crap. It looks like it was left outside and got water in it. 4 cylinders were rusty. Its off to the machine shop for a bore and to get the heads done. I am hoping you guys can help point me to a quality full rebuild kit for a good price. I need new pistons and everything. The motor is a 2000 LM7 5.3.

I'll keep you all posted on the status of things. I hope to have it off to the machine shop sometime in the next month or so.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Root, hope I didn't offend you with my post, that was not my intention, if I did I'm sorry...Jim

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Jim, No you didn't offend. I just took your request and stopped posting non motor stuff in here.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Root how bad were the cylinders. I had the same problem with the 2004 84K motor I got. Guess the po thought it was a good idea to pressure wash the engine with the sparkplugs out of one side. How ever I was able to get the pistons out after soaking in mystery oil for a couple of days. Then a light hone cleaned them up real nice. The pistons also cleaned up nice in my parts washer. I also lapped the valves myself and put it all back together. Still runs good after 8K miles and burns no oil. Also used ARP head bolts as the stock ones are one use only.

Other that the what you mentioned, does the rest of the motor look to be in good shape?

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

I had it turning over 6 months ago before I pulled the heads. It turned over with a socket and ratchet on the crank pulley. When I pulled the heads last month one of the pistons was stuck. The #1 piston is really rusty. The other 3 rusty ones aren't too bad.

Other than the cylinders I found the knock sensors are ruined. I pulled the intake and then pulled the rubber plugs over the knock sensors just to find those were full of water too and all corroded. I will have to replace the valley pan and the knock sensors. I still have to open up the bottom end and hope that's not full of rust.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

So I got some advice from a member over on LS1tech and I want to run it by your guys. The guy said that if I need a bore anyway I could save some money buying used 5.7L pistons from an LS1 and just have it bored out from a 5.3 to a 5.7. Does that sound possible to your guys? I am pretty sure I'll need new pistons so cheaper and more cubes seems like a good idea.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Well this weekend I got my engine torn down for the rebuild. My #2 piston was stuck due to rust but I got it out. I am definitely going to have to go .030 but we will see what the machinist says. All 16 lifters were slightly stuck because of all the carbon. I gave them a gentile tap and they all came out. I am hoping to reuse them if I can get them all cleaned up. The rollers on them all still moved good. When I got the cam out I must have rubbed it on the way out because I see a light hairline scratch on one of the surfaces where it sits in the cam bearing. Its very fine but I can lightly feel it with my finder nail. Do you guys think I can still reuse it?

Here is a pic of the stuck piston before I got it out. It shows the rust.
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...pszyjgzsum.jpg

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Root2812, i had the same issues on my junkyard 2001 5.3. Ebay had brand new stock blocks, standard bore, and cam bearings already installed for $199.00 plus shipping. Total cost in my hands was $325.00. Pistons will need to be replaced no matter which direction you go. I ran the gm number on the block and it was for 99-05 5.3 replacement. Good luck.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Hey everyone. So I have what I think is a simple question and I think I know the answer but its best to ask and know then just go with it and be wrong with a blown up motor. My engine block will be back from the machinist next week and I am ready to build it. Its my first engine build so I bought a book that is a detailed step by step with good pictures and all the torque specs and sequences. How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines (S-A Design):...
The book says to use a fastener lube to get proper torque specs so I bought the ARP one because that is what I could find. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9909

I read the ARP bottle and the online info but it just says for use with high performance engines and with ARP bolts. I assumed that they only mention their bolts because that's what they want you to buy. Can I use this with the stock (new) torque to yield bolts or do I need something else? Would I use this on all torqued bolts like accessory drive bolts?

So the only update is that my chassis is done and ready for the motor, fuel lines, and brakes. The engine will be back next week and ready for reassembly. When I tore the motor apart all 16 lifters were stuck on their bores so I got 16 new lifters (GM replacements which are LS7 lifters but recommended for all LS motors), the LS2 lifter guides (read they were the ones to use), and a new stock cam from GMpartsdirect.com. I also got a whole slew of other new parts besides the rebuild kit. After being burned on my used engine I didn't want to do that again and new short blocks are too costly. This rebuild will be somewhere between the two cost wise but I will know I have a good new motor as long as I do a good job. I am also happy that I can say that I built everything on this truck!

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Has no one used fastener assembly lube?

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Progress is moving along but wanted to ask a question before I break something. If I have a new PS pump and new pulley can I use a press to push the pulley on or will that wreck the pump? Do I have to take it to a dealer with a special tool?

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

I would not use a press
The parts store will loan you a tool to install your pulley

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

yes you can safely bore a 5.3 to 5.7. yes you can use arp lube on tty bolts, i agree with solidaxle... a tool is not that expensive to buy or rent at the parts store. have fun.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

You can rent the tool at your local parts store...

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Thanks Guys. I like to ask things I don't know before I make an expensive blunder.

I finally have an engine. I built it with my dad, it was the first engine for both of us. Soon it will be in the truck... By soon I mean next time I visit and can work on it. Once the motor is in I can take it home and work more regularly. Here are a few pictures.

I wanted to leave the heads raw aluminum but the marks from past corrosion looked bad so I painted them silver. They look nice.

http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...pshhwqhwbv.jpg

Then I put it together
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...psuw0nbra2.jpg

Then I just layed the intake on. Its only in primer right now. It will be gloss black.
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbyxsrn0v.jpg

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Hey,Greg, looks like your coming along well, on your engine.
Like the other guys said, use the proper tool on that PS pulley. Trying to press it, will ruin the pump. I purchased a puller/installer kit, which includes everything for every brand auto, for 40 bucks.
One little tip, clean the inner bore of the pulley with scotch brite, heat the pulley up and then work fast. They push on TIGHT.

Steve.

Re: Pre-LS swap questions
 

Thanks Steve. I will see if I can rent or borrow a tool.

Now that my engine is squared away I am dealing with the accessory drive. I want as much clearance as possible so I don't have to modify my firewall so I bought the Holley alternator/PS bracket that runs the corvette spacing. Now I need to buy all the parts to go with it and damn they are expensive. PS pump, tensioner, and alternator are pretty straight forward but I need to find a decent price on each of those. The catchy one is the water pump. I have 3 options. The ls1/ls6 pump with the bell pulley, an ls3/ls7 corvette pump, or an ls3 pump from a Camaro. All bolt up I was thinking either of the ls3 pumps because the pulley is narrower and would give me a little more room for the electric fan. Of course they have to cost twice as much as the LS1/LS6 pump. The LS3s differ by outlet location. So many choices.

But let me ask you guys another question. The steam line.... I don't know where to run it. I would rather not tap my new waterpump because then if I ever have to change it if I'm out on a trip I would have problems. Do I have to run it to the top of the radiator then? And do I need a coolant reservoir for the radiator to overflow into? Could I run the steam lines to that? I have heard the terms surge tank and overflow tank and have no idea what they mean. Please enlighten me on what I need to do.

Thanks for all the help guys. Exhaust will be next but BREW CITY is already schooling me in another thread.