Re: 1968 C10 Stepside Restoration Project
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More progress made. O cleaned up the body work around the passenger side kick panel/inner cowl. I also finished the rockers and did the block sanding around the cab corners and back panel of the cab addition, I started the refinement of the seams in the passenger side door jamb.
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There is still a dent along the lower portion of the cab near the left passenger cab corner. I will straighten out this area and a small depression I discovered while block sanding.. I will also do more work on smoothing out the door jamb seams on the passenger side.
In addition to that I applied more Rust Mort through the cabin light opening and sun visor holes. I will use the spray gun with the flexible hoze/nozzle to get further into the cavity above the roof headliner. |
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I also picked up a little accessory for the truck, a vintage Fyr Fyter extinguisher to mount in the cab.
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After a bit, maybe more than a bit, of cleaning, here is the fire extinguisher now. Cool thing is, you can recharge this at home by refilling and repressurizing this particular model. Not bad for a $13 purchase.
I also picked up this Ray-O-vac flashlight for the truck as well. |
Re: 1968 C10 Stepside Restoration Project
Cool finds! Those will be awesome to have in there.
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So this week I have been on Jury Duty, so I have not been working on the truck as much during the week in the evenings. I have been sanding and trying to work out some minor dings and dents. Seems I keep finding more as I block sand the cab, but all-in-all it is looking good.
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Forgot the pics...
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Looking excellent! :clap:
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It really is turning out nice and smooth, wish I had the patients to do any type of body work.
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Great build, keep up the hard work. Keep on truckin'' :metal:
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Re: 1968 C10 Stepside Restoration Project
Thanks Trucknut57 and RCbowtie69!
In all seriousness, I attribute my body work abilities to all those hours in my youth building model airplanes. With models, you have to use putty to hide seams and then you have to sand everything to get a good surface to paint. This truck is just a bit on a larger scale, but the same principle. |
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I am in about the same place as you with my "66.... I have the major body rust and dents fixed so far and now it is in Epoxy sealer and now I am doing the minor dents and guide coats. long long process but when it is done, you will be very happy!! |
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Not sure why the photo is upside down, but you can see that this will be a challenge being where it is. |
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So today was a good day, did a little welding to patch a hole below the vent on the driver's side and got the dents out on the cab just below the gas filler opening on the corner of the cab.
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I plan to coat the entire inside of the cab floor, dash wall and behind the dash and such with Por 15. I bought 3 quarts some time ago from Summit, it showed up with one having a slight puking episode and got all over the other 2. I called summit and they just sent me 3 more, so now i have 5+ quarts so i will do all the inside in it, cowl area, and such for protection. It is great to watch someone build their ride at about the same place i am. I am not doing much right now to mine due to our heat being well over 100 here for the next 5 days or so, with Monday being over 110! ya, i have AC in shop but not enough to correct that heat... so i am watching others build theirs for a week or so ... lol |
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I saw where Portland is expecting 112 degrees today, I do not envy you being up there in that extreme of heat. Stay cool, stay inside!
I think there was debris in the cowl area that retained moisture over the 15 or so years this truck sat outside idle. I believe I vacuumed all that out trying to make sure I got all the mouse nests out when I did the initial cleaning before I tore everything apart. I will be using one of the old inner fenders to make patch panels - the inner fender has the curved shape needed to somewhat closely rebuild that area of the truck. I will be coating the inside of the cowl with Raptor Liner to prevent any repeat of rust. |
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So the welding repair of the kick panel is complete and I have ground down the welds. A little skim coat of filler and primer to see how it is turning out.
Just need to clean-up around the vent opening. |
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I had to repair the exact same area in my "66. I got it looking good and then I built Speaker Pods that will cover this area and use the old Fresh air intake as a sound chamber. I also bought a flat Cowl cover (no vents) as i also have Vintage Air kit. The heat really sucks. We are used to it being warm, but this is just nuts. Even with the AC in the shop, it is still just too hot to paint. I will be trying to install my "paint booth" this 4th of July and be ready to start painting later in July when it calms down a bit. May be painting at 4am but oh well... I guess it will be like have a heat box to dry the paint... LOL |
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Some BEFORE and AFTER shots.
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More BEFORE and AFTERS....
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...and more...
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...and more...
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...and more...
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So, I am about to undertake what will likely be the most difficult repair of this build. The area up under the dash leaves little room for working. I will need to cut out the bad metal and replace it with good metal. Cutting, prepping, welding, and grinding will undoubtedly be a challenge. Here is what I am facing:
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Re: 1968 C10 Stepside Restoration Project
As you can see the damage is relatively close to the dash mounting bolts. My primary concern is cutting out the bad stuff without mauling the good areas directly adjacent to it. While I will be using a grinder and sawz-all, my worry is cutting too deep or too far.
Repairing using an old inner fender seems to be the best bet, the inner fender has significant curves built into it that would make creating patch panels a little easier. |
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You may find it much easier to pull the dash to repair those sections :chevy:
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contact member heehawracing , he's down your way and may have what you need ? :chevy:
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BTW, I did do a test fit of the carpet yesterday... |
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Just found this thread, awesome work man. following
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Thanks, I appreciate it. I am really grateful to all those on this forum who blazed a trail for me to follow on my build, as well as those like Paulk C10 and Gibson63 on YouTube. Those guys taught me a lot.
Hopefully I can get this cab finished up in the next month or two. |
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So, I decided to drill out the spot welds and remove the dash so I can repair the area under rhe dash that is rotted out. Did not take long, I used a 1/8 drill bit to make a pilot hole (not really a hole, just drilled into the first layer of metal) then followed with the new bit I picked up thanks to a wise member of this forum who shared.
So once drilled out, I used my putty knife and separated the dash from the cab. Actually separated rather easy. I left one bolt in on each side so the dash so the dash wouldn't just fall. Once repaired, I will apply the epoxy primer and Lizard Skin to ensure good coverage up under the dash. |
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Here are photos of the process.
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The last photo above is showing that you also need to drill out the two spot welds outside to the left of the 'seam'...right of the seams on the driver's side.
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Finally, after removing the two bolts, the dash is free.
Here is a better look at some of the damage. I had already started cutting out what I could with the dash in. Second photo I have cut out some more, wire brushed, and applied Rust Mort. |
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So, in my attempt to recreate a period correct ranch truck similar to one my uncle had on his dairy farm, I decided to add a Unity GM spotlight. I picked up a really nice used spotlight off of eBay and was happy with how nice it was. All I need to do is replace the wire...easy-peasy. The bracket I ordered separately from Unity, it is the left handed Kdriver side) 202 bracket.
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Good job on the dash removal! I’m glad you decided to go that route, it will help you out , a lot!!!i have removed a couple, only hassle is, all that drilling...
Great rust repairs, you’ve accomplished!!! You’re a great inspiration for the rest of us!!! Lol, looking for are to the “after” pictures of the inner dash repairs!!! Carry on, man!!! |
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