Re: Power Window Project DIY 64-66 TRUCK
Tony,
Sorry, after closer look, it appears you metal attachment is horseshoe shaped and does not cause motor to sit lower. My bad. Great add on! Those with mig and die grinder should be able to easily make upgrade. |
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Been working a lot of hours the past few weeks, so have not gotten any further with my window project. Hopefully this weekend! |
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This is awesome. Gonna file it away until I am at that point on my project.
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UPDATED VIDEO;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9_7...ature=youtu.be this shows my install of the retro window crank handle from Auto Loc; ALso my complaining of the PRICE!!! $100 per side; and the thing BINDS when engaged! What a low end piece of garbage, IMHO. Speaking of low end pieces of garbage, you will see the other set of retro crank switches I bought, from Dannys Rod Shop on EBAY. these have a knurled shaft that does not even close fit my handles. My guess, fits 67-72. My loss, $139 gone. In any case, the pass window is done on inside, now I need to run wires to ignition fused and GND. BTW, does anyone know a good pass through that I can shuttle wires from cab to door? Something nice? I saw a spring with great mount for door and cab, wires ran through spring, I am sorry I did not buy when saw.... further, I have video coming where I do actual modification of regulator and mount motor to it for prep for drivers door, coming in next day or so. Lastly, I may give you a sneak peak at a new product I am testing out, is a solid state module that will add one-touch express window up/down and power door lock control, also has receiver and transmitter fob for remote entry. |
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This is great Steve! I'll be putting this on my "to do" list for an old beater I'm throwing together.
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Well done!!
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OK here is last item I promised; Parts 1, 2 and 3 of modifying the manual regulator and mounting motor . Is terrible video, shot in wrong light and angle, and I am told by wife I say the word "SO," far too much.
Maybe you can make it drinking game-every time I say word "SO" take a shot (tequila, my choice would be Don Julio Reposado), will not seem nearly as bad by end:lol:. I may add one more video, I am adding a solid state relay controller that will add express up and down to window, maybe power door locks if I can find elegant way to add power locks, wireless remote... Part 1: https://youtu.be/9sSZrrlKBo4 Part 2: https://youtu.be/_YLSsTWEdvg Part 3: https://youtu.be/sZAsww1DURs Enjoy! |
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Oh thank god for 64Shortbox (again) - "...Oh, you will need to remove the front fenders to drill your holes in the door opening & door for your wiring conduits. The front bumper can stay on the truck but the cowl panels will need to come off. Be sure to tape up the bumper, door & fender edges, so you don't scratch them when removing & installing your fenders. Use SEVERAL layers of tape where you will be drilling on the door edge in case the drill chuck hits it. Better safe than sorry. As you can see I had a little blood loss - I healed your truck won't! I drilled BIG holes for my conduits because I used a Factory Power Window & Door Lock wiring harness from an 76 C-10 and needed to pass the factory wiring connectors through them. ..." Link: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...74&postcount=9 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1453259939 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1453259939 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1453259939 |
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What about the wires going inside the cab?
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These holes are Gynormous! in reality, only need 2 wires, 12V and GND. I plan on making hole only big enough for 2 wires and grommet;
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I think you are on correct track; higher up on cab; This region should be single wall I hope, maybe easy drill. I will do some investigation this coming weekend;
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Has anyone tried this with knee knocker doors yet? Also can the "plate" that is needed off of the 73-87 style motor be sourced off of a square body at the salvage yard?
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A month latter, do we have any news on the wiring path you used yet?
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My power window mod is here...
http://www.c10australia.com.au/forum...uot-Pedro-quot Still working on the switch. |
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Motors did not come with the brackets pictured.
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My brother is making (with a stero lithograph printer) copies of the metal bracket required to adapt the 9 tooth power window unit. 10-12 of these will be available for free prototype testing. Only charge will be for postage....first come first served. Call or text 918-630-4665------email kieth.ruleco@hotmail.com :uhmk:
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Email sent.
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Almost two months latter :) Any info on the wire run?
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Any updates on window switch after the Auto Loc one? What about wiring routing update? |
Re: Power Window Project DIY 64-66 TRUCK
Steve
Any updates on window switch after the Auto Loc one? What about wiring routing update? ******************************************************** Sorry, been distracted. No, sadly, the Auto Loc switch is best I have found. I dont think a DIY version will work the way I want with the time I am willing to invest. I would love it if someone would work that angle; On the routing, I ran wires as inconspicuously as I could, but I will be re-running them soon and post an update. Lastly, for Express up and down, I am testing a module for a friend that is in beta design phase right now; it is programmable and one use is for power windows; This one has been programmed for use in a vehicle with retro handles; Is very cool what user can do with OEM old school handle! I will post details once install is complete and pretty. |
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As a motorcycle mechanic I started thinking about the shift mechanism, the shaft has a centering spring that straddles a pin holds the spring and acts as a stop to limit travel. If I can find a mechanism with the same spline as the window lever I think I can make a stout switch using a couple micro switches and relays. Here's a pic of a Honda shift mech with the spring. Anybody have any thoughts on this idea?
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Late but following
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Install start to finish video group:
https://youtu.be/9sSZrrlKBo4 https://youtu.be/_YLSsTWEdvg https://youtu.be/sZAsww1DURs https://youtu.be/h9_7agUeQIs https://youtu.be/bYWVZdToj84 |
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Thanks for all the updates gentlemen!
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ok who has the parts list?? lol
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With that said, i have found all four motors on Amazon and the pigtails. Any new updates on this? I know one person added some metal to the back to mount the motor differently, did this pan out or ? I was wondering if it made installing the wing window any easier? Thanks again. |
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Hey all, ave got a quick update that addresses the spacing issue for the use of the square body plate and the Astro van that Steve posted a while back.
As I was watching his videos, over and over to understand the process, I followed his guidance and came up with a few updates that will make the fit a bit more square and not place any extra pressure on the post/axle of the teeth in the motor. Here’s a few pics of how I followed Steve’s instructions and where I added some updates. For the motor, I used a small angle grinder, it’s easier to manage this close cut and not damage the sector or gear teeth, you have to grind at an angle to miss the teeth while removing the gear cover, so go slow and carefully. You also need to grind down the rivets as seen adjacent to the opening and you can see that started as I cut. |
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As you remove the gear cover, go ahead and smooth the new opening with a file or carbide burr.
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As you prepare to place the mounting plate, I drilled our the four mounting holes Steve identified with a 13/64” drill bit. I also took 4 “10 bolts and drilled out the threads for use as a spacer. Once I had everything drilled out/prepped I placed the bolts over the 4 holes and placed a couple dots of instant glue to hold them in place throughout the process.
I also put some assembly lube on the head of the gear and the teeth of the sector…that’s the red stuff… |
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Now you’re ready to line everything up for mounting and mark the adapter plate for the two bolts (the sector is pictured here and the face you see will be in the “meat” part of this sandwich) that will hold it to the motor & regulator assembly.
As you will see, two holes need to be drilled as Steve points out and again I used the 13/64th drill bit. These turn out to be “blind” or real hard to get to!! Here’s where I reversed Steve’s process and placed “10x1” machine screws on the inside of the attachment plate and spot welded them in place. Depending on your welding skill, you may need to grind down the size of your spots to clear the small are they are now at home. One way to hold them is to bolt them in place and then spot weld them then remove the bolts. This will ensure they’re straight and will mate with everything else. |
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Now you’re ready to assemble all your tedious and hard work. Go ahead and bolt everything together…I used nyloc (sp?) bolts and blue thread locker. You can see how the plate sits flush and does not sit proud of the regulator assembly and is pretty solid and should handle all the shake/rattle/roll we have in our daily driving.
Any questions, please reach out. Here’s the final product….. |
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I'm trying this on my 62 C10. it works perfect on the bench however when I install it will only go up a little. Regulators and window weatherstripping is all new. Anything suggestions?
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