Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

x2. Function over form first & then what your vision wants/needs should be your goal.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

From personal experience there is not as much room as you think there is between the frame brace......

I like the tips, bed exit, well its your truck and - as my good lady wife says " the reason there are blondes and brunettes is that it World would be a very dull place if we all liked the same thing...."

I am going single turbo (eventually) with a loud valve dumping out between the fender and the chassis with a full length single pipe for when off boost.

What I am trying to say is that you have options. Pick the one you like.

A for the chassis so far... That I really rather good. Well done sir!

Please continue.

P. :D

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I sincerely appreciate your comments! I am just so thinking that I want to go with the exhaust through the bed for something different, knowing that this is not everyone's idea but I appreciate everyone's own idea's but in the end as you mentioned do what you or I want.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

SCOTI - I have appreciated all your comments and always will. I really respect your ideas because you have and are doing alot on here, so thank you.
I know the exhaust out the bed is "interesting" and just in case I will install a V-Band clamp that will allow me to remove the exist out the bed if it is not what I want in the end.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Paul, it is always great to hear from you! Ya, i hear you on the room with the brace. So I drew it in AutoCad and that is why I went with the mufflers I am. The bed exit, ya why not! I have never ever been known to follow others or the "norm" lol! As I mentioned earlier, I have a V-band Clamp on the edit tube from the mufflers that can be remove/changed.... so that is my "out" if needed... lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Your truck is shaping up really nice. The frame is looking great.
I agree with building it to your vision. It looks like it will be tons of fun when you get it on the road. Nice work.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you! I appreciate the kind words.
It is a passion for sure and after building my 1969 C10 with some restrictions, this one I going with alot less limits and building it to my vision.
I feel as you and others do, build your truck or car or whatever it is to your vision and not what someone tries to tell you is your vision. I do appreciate any and all comments as long as they are not derogative towards the build or builder. I understand that everyone has what they prefer or like and that is great, I have mine, BUT I will always appreciate what someone else builds. I just wished that everyone would take this same thought as you and others one here do, but .... I have been to car/truck shows and had people of all ages talk such negative crap about someone's ride just because they do not like it. Hell, as many of you may know I am covered in tattoos and I was even at a tattoo convention/show and heard people talking crap about others tattoos! I am sorry this has nothing to do with trucks, I am just hoping that others who have done this to others maybe rethinks what they say before they do about anything, just think before you respond.
The old saying "If you cannot say anything positive or nice, then do not say anything".

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

A nice Project and Interesting to follow. At Meetings, many think that only they drive the right car, no Respect for the Performance of others, too bad.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I wholeheartedly agree w/this philosophy in general.

With that said, while one's vision may be awesome to 'them', it may not translate or play-out the same to the masses. Not a big deal as far as 'appreciation of the work' until it moves to the marketplace where monetary compensation comes into the equation. Once on the market, one's vision may not yield the same return vs a similarly built vehicle w/a more 'common' appeal. One needs to keep these factors in mind to tame their expectations if they decide to put it on the market.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

SCOTI,
This is very true, great point. In my case this truck is for me and I do not plan to sell, so I am not worried about the re-sale ability of it, to a point. lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I got the Hedman headers Exhaust it appears they will install perfectly in the open area I have in the frame brace.
The issue I am dealing with is with the V-Bands that I have. The outside of the band is listed as standard steel, BUT it appears the two inside ends that get welded onto the exhaust ARE stainless steel. What is the issue you may ask, well my exhaust and muffler are standard galvanized steel, so I need to somehow weld my galvanized muffler ends to the Stainless Steel V-Band Clamp ends (if possible). I am not sure if this can be done, never tried welding SS to Steel, but I read it is possible. Anyone on here with alot more welding experience please weigh in on this.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

It can be done it just won't be pretty nor perfect. Metal is metal. We tig'd SS tips to my aluminized steel exhaust system on my old Fox body X-HWY pursuit Mustang. Tig is a better option but a Mig weld will also get it done.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Great, thank you sir for the response. I thought, but until or someone I trust has done it...... So thank you.
I clean it up and plan to spray it all with High Heat header Paint to match the headers.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Sounds like I purchased the same V Bands as you.

Basically I do what I do in most situations when I am unsure of what the right thing to do is and just do it.

So I did it.

https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/pauly/13a054097533.jpg

Not the best picture but I wouldn't worry about it too much as mine seemed to weld up quite nicely.

Which probably proves that they are either "Stainless Steel" or I am much better at this stuff than I have any right to be.

Just stick it all together, what's the worst that can happen.....

P. :D

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

That is awesome! Thank you sir. They are Evil Energy V-Band clamps.

I too have some of those flexible pipes, not sure if I want to use them or not.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Use the Flexi pipes as long as they are the ones with the 'solid' inners rather than the mesh.

Using the exhaust mounts that come with the brace it makes the run to the engine/headers/manifolds completely rigid and I can see any movement in the engine - especially as we have a man peddle - causing a failure pretty quickly.

Have a look at the pictures I took running the front part of the exhaust on Woody and I originally didn't go with the flex joints - advice from those with far more experience than me was to put them in. Straight away I noticed that the pipes moved slightly so must be doing something!

Anyway, enough of my ramblings.

To quote the winged goddess of victory...Solum fac id....

P. :D

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

You have to run flex joints if the exhaust is rigid mounted. Welds will fail other wise. If the exhaust is mounted w/flexible hangers, flex joints aren't a must have.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok that makes sense I have rubber mounts to use.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I've built 3 SS systems w/o those flex joints w/o issue. The key is that after the header/manifold collector flange, the system needs to be able to 'grow' in length. Anything that hinders slight changes in length (expansion/contraction) will be an issue so you have to keep that in mind w/the hanger mounting.

I used parts store muffler hanger rubber cushions in tandem w/brackets (tabs) I made. In some places I used the U-bolt style clamps as a mounting bracket as well since brackets needs are specific to the area you're trying to mount things.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Perfect, thank you. We are going to look at the exhaust this weekend.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, so I had a very close friend of mine stop by and help me layout the exhaust and we got one side basically done! Damn that took some time to build, setup, design .... yada yada... BUT it is done and looks really good. Well its all laid out, I just need to fully weld it up, clean it up and then I plan to VHT paint the entire thing in black, in keeping with the theme on the truck, all flat Red with Black highlights. Pics to come on the exhaust. I did get the Hedman mufflers that look like short and fattened cherry bombs without the red. LOL

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Took me awhile to read the build thanks for sharing...

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

LOL ya sorry about that. I have been working on this for a while and you can tell I take alot of photos, more for a record for later but also to share. One day I will have a "Completed" or mostly "Completed" pics... lol like they are ever "Done".

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

OK, so after doing some re-evaluating of the exhaust routing, we got the routing done a bit different, less bends, more clearance, all around just looks better. With that said, it is taking a bit longer to get it set into the space correctly, welding and such and my buddy whom is doing the work can only do a few hours at a time, all good though. I have enough items to install to keep me busy meanwhile.
I was looking install the fuel line (PTFE 3/8" line _ -6AN) and thought, hey dummy you may want to get a fuel filter!! So I got a cannister style 30 micron high flow. This will be installed back by the tank somewhere that is accessible. Note: I have a an intake fuel injection pump with a the new fuel cell.
Here is a question for everyone, the fuel pump supply and return fittings - are they pipe thread or ? The fitting is brass

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

OK so update: New headers are on the way. I was reinstalling the headers for more exhaust work and remembered why these headers are not fun, I cannot get the plugs into the heads without removal of the headers. I think they are for angle plug heads and well my aluminum heads are not angle plug heads, so to fix this issue and well a few other issues with the headers are not lining up correctly down below in regards to the mufflers, i have just purchased a set of Mid-length headers that are bare. This will allow us ALOT more ability to move around the alignment for the mufflers and maybe just maybe install some "loud" makers into the exhuast.... lol
Anyways, they are from Speedway and made for our trucks. I also got two 25' DEI wrap kits for them, and I will use my High heat 2000 Degree paint to paint the headers with, then I was thinking that after they are wrapped, paint the wrap with the same high heat paint. DEI makes a silicone high heat spray, but DAMN that stuff is expensive!! So my thought is that high heat paint will work too? Thoughts?