Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Update:
Ok, so I got the headers from Speedway, nice basic pieces, but what is really nice is that was unaware they come with 3 hole flanges with Bolts and Gaskets, Header gaskets and new header bolts! So that was nice. 1 issue I ran into, the large flange that mounts to the heads has a bit of a warp on the Pass side. I would say it is 3/16 of inch or so difference from the center two ports to the two outside ports, being that if you lay it against the head, the center two ports touch and the outside ports are approx. 3/16" out. I have had this before and just installed the bolts and that solved the issue - it flexed them in. Not a real big issue, if needed I could just cut the flange outside the two center ports allow them to then move independent.
Ok, so I removed the header wrap from the previous headers and just reused on the new headers. It worked great, no issues (no heat cycles), I had a bit of the DEI Silicone coating left over and found a local auto-parts house that had a can, so I just re-sprayed the wrap, looks good. If someone wants to do this, hint here, get some stainless steel wire used to wire lock and use it on the wrap. The neat little stainless steel tie wraps work ok, but you cannot tighten them very much.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok so the exhaust is going good now. So now onto installing the fuel lines, battery cables and such, attaching them inside frame rail. Pics to come. As soon as the exhaust is completed pics will come of that also.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I'm looking forward to pictures, I'm glad things are going well

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Update:

Ok so attached are the pics of the new mid-length Headers with re-used DEI header wrap - Shown are the tools I used -

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

more

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

so then I started on the Fuel lines
I am using PTFE Fuel line 3/8" with -6AN fittings - 30 Micron Fuel Filter - Pump is in the tank (Fuel Injection pump) - Reg will be mounted on the firewall later -
Bulkhead fittings shown

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

helps if i attach the pics... lol sorry

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Just a note, the inside rail fittings by the fuel tank are swapped as far as which one is on top - shown here was just test fitting

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

more on the fuel lines.... shown are various test fits ...

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

(I just noticed that i need to adjust the aspect ratio on pics when I Resize them. LOL )

Anyways, here are pics of the somewhat test fit completed

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

lol, yes the message on the tank is for my mother.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Looks good. The lines look very clean...like how you used the fitting through the frame!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Please forgive this post - Testing aspect ratios

There we go....

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

So today I was excited to go run the two lines from the back to the front inside the frame rail. I ordered a second PTFE fuel line for the return side and DAMNIT, I order normal steel braided line, not PTFE. Why the issue? The two are similar BUT the ends are not. So return and re-order I go...

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Hear you on the PTFE lines.

Ordered around £400 worth of fittings, had a friend bring them back in their luggage for me and felt very smug that I had saved a load of cash....

Turns out I ordered rubber hose fittings not PTFE ones so half of them are now just expensive ornaments......

A note to Mum never needs explaining.

And!!! Pleased we finally get to see pictures of your handiwork.....

P. :D

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Great work and so careful, I love it.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you sir. It's been a lesrning curve, but i like to learn new things and i can be bit "anal" about this stuff. In like detail work

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Oh no!! Ya damn that sucks. So i can tell you that i look for the flared ends on the fittings, like an umbrella. Nice to finally get it going again.. i miss this

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you sir!! Appreciate your comments.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, so got the return line and installed. Looks good for this rookie. Pics attached of progress...

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, so now for the question. I need to exit the inside frame rail and here is my plan. Exit with bulkhead fittings where i am pointing to. This will be just below the inner fender, then come up under/inside the inner fender to a point to notch the inner fender to exit from and go into the Fuel Pressure reg. then onto the Injection system. Thoughts on the plan?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Jeff.

I came up on the top of the chassis rather than on the outside.

Have a look at my build and you will see what I mean. If it works for you might be a consideration.

P. :D

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Yes sir, I was looking at that originally. If i am honest, the main reason thatI was looking at the side is the header clearance and how to route them up the firewall. This is all fair and good, but the other reason is that well i have to take the cab off again and not sure if i want to drill more holes in the frame vs using what is existing.

My dilemma .... this morning (my time .... lol) is clean out the storage shed and move front end parts from boxes to the shop for pre-assemble.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, Yesterday I cleaned out/re-arranged my 10'x16' Old Hickory Storage Barn (Great company and cheaper than the other option). This is where I have all my parts for the build, when I say all the parts, I mean all the parts... every body/Bed panel, misc parts, you name it. Well that is ALOT of boxes, ALOT!! So at the point I am now I moved the front inner and out fenders and Rad support out of the shed, out of the boxes and into the shop. This and just misc cleaning has helped extremely with room. This allowed me to move alot of other items in the shop to the shed to free up alot of space. BECAUSE I need to remove the damn cab for just a min so that I can drill two holes for the darn fuel line bulkhead fittings up bye the front of where the cab meets the frame. Then I re-set the cab on and start all the test fitting of the front end and the arrangement of all the misc electronic equipmen - ie MSD 6A2 box, distribution block for electrical... and so on.
Moving forward with a backup here and there.... lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

So, all goes well I will have the Fuel line Bulkhead fittings installed up front, from the inside of the frame to the top of the frame, like my friend from across the pond did Paul Y. Thanks again for the pics on yours.
After that, it is installing the front inner fenders, outer fenders and Rad support for test fitting and alignment, then I need to line the inner fenders and underside of the outer fender with bed liner. Then paint in inner side of the fenders with Por 15 spray on black.
I also will be installing the Hydraulic clutch and Hydra-boost for test fitting and brake line routing. (Thanks to CaptainFab for the Hydraulic clutch and Hydra-boost mount and master Cylinder with correct rods to the clutch pedal!!