Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Great project and excellent pics. Do your side windows have frames or are they all glass? If they are all glass what did you use for regulators and bottom of window track? Thanks

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Sorry about the late reply, friend. At this time the windows are all stock and run the stock metal frame. I have not taken them apart or looked too closely at them since Dad put it together 20 years ago, but I'm sure I will want to see your progress to get good ideas about what way I should go when that time comes!

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

It has been a difficult season of life the last few months, but amongst life and ministry’s events I was able finish some side work and collect a bunch of parts. If anyone needs help turning up a mid 90’s 12-valve Cummins with the P7100 Inline Bosch let me know because I can offer some great tips. Today I was able to start back doing some things.

I originally ordered a set of C4 stainless braided brake lines, but the front lines where about 4” too short. After measuring and re-measuring again I ordered 2 18” DOT approved brake lines from JEGS. There are many non-DOT approved brake lines available, but it was worth the peace of mind and a few bucks to order them. I’ve looked at 100s of pictures of other Flatout Engineering and other various IFS swaps, but I’m not always pleased with how the front lines are routed, and that balance between looks and safety. Some are just plain silly the way they are ran, but others just cosmetically look off or distracting. It was very important to me to run everything as hidden but accessible as possible, yet safe and practical. I believe I found the perfect balance, but time will tell. I drilled the front holes (I believe 5/8” holes) behind the cross member, and on the right side it is above but in line with my fuel bulkhead pass-through fittings. I split the difference between the back of the welded cross member and the frame recess. It appears to have proper clearance and length with the wheels turned either direction, with suspension compressed or free.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

As for the rear brake lines, the trick rear stainless braided factory-length lines will work well, so to help gain a little extra access inside the frame and to be able to check all the fittings occasionally, I drilled a hole in the inner boxing plate in front of the forward rear IRS cross member. This will allow me to access the lines and other items running inside the frame rail at the arch, but I will place a flat plate behind it and paint it black to cover the whole and help it continue the theme and remain practical. I also purchased all the weld nuts and stainless hardware to complete the bowtie boxing back plates (I have lots to do if I want to drive it by the end of the summer!)

After much research and personal debate, I decided to purchase the “Tanks Inc” in-tank fuel pump. It is the mid-level electric fuel pump that mounts inside the fuel tank, uses a stock-style replaceable Wabash fuel pump, and uses the engine’s fuel pressure regulator – and it will work with both my TPI and the LS fuel injection, if I ever decide to upgrade. This pump will look much cleaner hidden inside the tank than all the necessary parts that would mount externally, and I keep reading they run cooler and last longer mounted in the tank. The pump assembly has a special tray that keeps the fuel pump from starving, instead of using the special baffled fuel tank. I will keep you posted on how it goes.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

After thinking, chewing, reading, sleeping for a loooooong time, I finally dived into the bed latch mechanism. I used the bear claw universal latch assembly, enlarged the front bed bolt hole a bit, then took the latch apart and cut the top centering cone off. I believe it is really going to work perfect. I plan to weld the centering cone onto the frame so there are no bolt heads / fastener hardware to look unsightly. I’m not sure how I will re-assemble the latch under the frame rail yet, but it is going really well. The little things will work out now that the big things have been figured out. I purchased 2 universal door solenoids from Speedway, and they will mount inside the frame rail to actuate the latch with a button under the seat or dash. I hope to get back out later and get more done.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Last update tonight! After looking for a 88-93 Camaro T5 V8 World Class 5 speed forever unsuccessfully and reading too many T5 forums to count, I found a brand new / rebuilt S10 World Class T5. I believe it was installed but never driven / oil never added. The thing looks brand new, and it was too good of a price to pass up for the forward mounted shifter. I’m still considering what to do next. My 1st choice was to find a T56, but after spending $1200-$1800 on a 6 speed transmission, $400-$500 for a custom bell housing for the early non-LS engine, another $400-$500 on the custom flywheel, I just can’t afford one at this time. Maybe one day down the road I’ll run into a LS / T56 combo and swap the whole thing. That appears to be the most affordable way to run a 6 speed. But I really want a manual transmission in my toy, so I will keep my eye out for a V8 T5 for now and keep reading forums. I understand if I locate a early 90’s 4.3 V6 flywheel, I can run this entire S10 tranny with a spacer as long as I don’t get too rough with it – and I’m not a crazy teenage boy anymore. I still have time before deciding.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Someone asked some questions about the old rear end. If I understand correctly, it was a mid-70's 3/4 ton Blazer 12 bolt rear end that my dad welded the original enclosed driveshaft style rear end brackets onto. It worked very well with no trouble. These are old pictures if any was interested in them for reference.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

After working on everything else and finally catching up on the "honey do" list, I made it a priority to get back to my own toy. I must admit, it is amazing how it helps me be more creative over-all in life and help with stress. I was finally able to start to assemble some of those parts I've been collecting. The clutch master bracket is installed and buttoned up. I also finished most of the access plates by welding weld-nuts in, and drilling the hole a little bigger for ease of assembly once painted. I believe it turned out very well.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

The Tanks Incorporated fuel pump for the TPI turned out very good. I will be able to use this pump for both the current TPI, or if I ever upgrade to an LS1 engine. It was more work cleaning out all the welding shavings than actually installing the pump. The trick stainless braided lines topped everything off like icing on the cake!

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

The latch assemblies also turned out well for securing the tilt bed. I took 2 of the bear claw latches, but they where too wide, so I cut them apart and modified them as the pictures show to make them narrow enough to fit between the frame rails, and then used the power door lock motor to actuate the latch. A piece of thin wall square tubing cut in half made a perfect bracket to install the mechanism together, then welded 2 5/16 weld nuts to secure the assembly to the frame.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

These pictures show how the latch assemblies are secured within the frame.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

I was able to order a flywheel and clutch for an Astro van from Advance Auto. The Astor uses a larger diameter clutch with the correct spline size. I haven't mocked anything up yet, but I understand that instead of running a spacer, the input shaft can simply be cut down a bit making it a bolt in swap.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Looking pretty great man KEEP it UP !!

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

You have done a lot of very nice modifications on your truck. The first time you take it out you will be all smiles. Keep it up.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

My crazy season of church camps and non-stop activities is nearly over. Updates soon!

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Your truck is looking great, I really love the vette suspension and plan to use it in my next build. Keep up the great work
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Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Fantastic build! Great pics! I have a 46 that my dad bought 44 years ago with the intention of leaving to me....well he did. He tore it apart ,every nut and rusty bolt, then gave it to me and moved to Fl. I'm sloooowly building it as $$ and my body permits (I'm disabled, 14 messed up discs) so working on it is a slow process. I know mine won't come out nearly as nice as yours, but it's great to see the pics so I can kinda get an idea of how it's supposed to go back together. Fantastic job, thanks for the pics, once I get a little more accomplished I may do a similar thread but the other end of the spectrum, a 46 on a low$ budget.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

I have much to update, so will have to do over a few posts. Here are a few pictures that I will go back and explain. These are the Camara V8 T5 transmission with the S10 Tail Shaft housing.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

I have modified the transmission crossmember, and it turned out good, but I guess I don't have any pictures of it yet.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

I fill in the details soon, but had time to post a few pictures before teaching tonight.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

To those who may have been following this build, I apologize for not updating more regularly. I get tired at night sooner that I use to! I have been working pretty solid on things when able to (been doing lots of side work too, to pay bills), but I don't have pictures of everything. I'll do my best to fill in details. If I missed anything or skipped anything you need to know, just ask.

I finished welding up and installing the master cylinder access plate in the floor under the seat. I don't think I have all the pictures necessary, but I will post more soon. Very pleased how it turned out. Also, I had fought finding correct adapter fittings for the C5 master cylinder / AN fitting, so I figured something else out that worked well. I tapped the hole for NPT, then purchased a second tap, cut the end off, then tapped clean to the end where the NPT threads are large enough that the fitting could enter the full way into the whole, rather than sticking out. I used a heavy duty lock tight style thread sealer. I hope I never have to pull it out, but it will be permanently sealed.

I have also finished modifying / grinding / working on the several of the parts, including the engine brackets in the front.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

After LOOOOTS of reading, I went with making an X Pipe. I made my own X pipe. The difference / ideas / arguments against using an X pipe or and H pipe are enormous. After reading both side of the arguments, I was most impressed with the guys who endorsed the X pipe with the smaller relief passage between them. They seemed to have the math equations, knowledge, and real-life engineering info - after reading TONS of different forums, I think many of these guys actually engineer them? Maybe I'm wrong, but what they said was that the benefits do not come from the "flow" (like with the fully open chamber X pipes), but serves 2 factors: 1) on a Chevy V8 engine the 2 center cylinders fire right next to each other, and causes extra pressure to back up. The relief "dumps" the extra pressure and helps flow. Additionally, I learned the reason the Ford / Chevy / Dodge V8s all sound so different is because the firing order between the different manufactures change when the 2 adjacent cylinders fire. 2) The noise waves from the banks cancel each other out, helping driver compartment noise considerably, and the X pipe causes the exhaust sound to be "similar to the modern higher revving engines." Maybe I made a mistake, maybe I didn't? I'll find out in a few months (or years?) when I finally get to start it. In all honesty, I don't really plan on making enough power to really matter too much anyway! I just think it looks cool, and i want that sound. I won't have the heart to drive this thing too hard anyway!

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

I went with the Speedway 2 1/2" exhaust kit. It comes with 4 U, 4 90*, 4 45*, and 4 4' straight pipes. I'd love to replace it with stainless someday, but I didn't have the extra money (3-4X more) and didn't have the welding set-up or experience to do it at this time - maybe I'll move up to that step down the road and sell what I have. For now I will have this coated with that really hard exhaust coating I read about all the time. This has been a breeze to work with this material. I'd go as far as to say it has been "fun"!

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

I wanted to set the exhaust as far up as possible, so I made slots in my transmissions cross member. I'm sure there would have been room to go underneath, but I think this turned out PERFECT. I am really pleased with the ways things are turning out.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

It took many hours of bolting up, tack welding, checking, adjusting, re-tack welding - but I turned out just the way it was needed. It looks like the clearances are perfect, and things have been done right.