Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Response above in blue text above.

Picture 1 is from this weekend dragging the carcass of the crew cab back to the stable. All the doors and parts are in the inside of the cab. The rest of the items I transported in the bed of my truck.

Picture 2 is a cart I seen in my neighborhood last week. The company was using it to move a big spa into a backyard. I ran out and watched them do it with ease and thought it was a great design for moving cabs, front clips, beds to and from my side yard. So I am working on a version of this to use here on my property.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Awesome score on the crew cab! I have found a better body shell for my wife's burb. Now to come up with the funds to get it so I can save time repairing her rust. I'd rather cut her current shell for a crew cab and eliminate the back rust issues. :lol: That cart definitely would help out!

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Well been chipping away the last few days at the fenders. Every time I think I have it licked I find another pin hole or something that needs attention. Over the last few days I did some sanding, filling, scrubbing, power washing, wax and degreasing and some more sanding again. Felt that I was pretty close so this morning I waited until the temps warmed up to about 70 and got everything set up to spray primer on the side yard in the shade before the sun hits the side yard and really heats up the metal.

Went pretty well laying it down and the first time using the new compressor for painting was a win. I think I only heard the compressor come on once or twice. The old compressor would be running all the time and still running to catchup after I was done painting.

So for tomorrow I hope to get the color on the backside where it is needed and possibly shoot the 3M under coat in the other areas so I can get them bolted on.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Got the front fenders out on the front driveway and set up for a little wet sanding and blocking with some 3M wet n dry paper. Spent about an hour on each fender blocking and cleaning off to see where it was coming along. After a few rounds I use a graphite pencil to make squiggly lines where I need to knockdown more.

When I was all wrapped up I had to pull out the power washer and cleanup the driveway and while I was at it I decided to give the old 68 K20 a bath and take her for a spin. She is a little rough around the edges but I kind of like her that way.

Pict 1- is the primer and etching primer I used on this project. The primer brand is Wanda by Akzonobel and the etching primer is Martin Senour Tec, I used if I burned through the primer to metal.

Pict 2- is how I have the fender rigged up on a saw horse with a couple of clamped 2x4's. this allows me to work on stuff without having to bend over all day.

Pict 3- shows after a few passes with wet sanding I let it dry off and went over the areas that need more sanding with a graphite pencil.

Pict 4, 5- a few shots after getting the 68 K20 washed off with the power washer and headed out for a little drive in the hills behind by house.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

While working on getting fenders ready for color over the weekend it reminded me that I wanted to do a custom badge for the fenders on the second lower set of existing badge holes. The top holes will be for the "Custom/20" badges that go with the truck. The bottom holes I believe were for the "8/350" emblem.

My intentions were to design a badge that looks like the it could be period correct and have a twist on the build. Place it on the fenders in place of the "8/350" and when I decide to pass the truck on to a new owner it can be swapped out if they want.

This is the first draft of the emblem done in illustrator. Once I get it where I am happy with I can open the vector file in my CNC software and create cutting files and do a test cut from my CNC machine.

Here is a picture of the first draft.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

I could be wrong, but I thought the engine badges were under the marker lights on 71-72?

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

You might be right. I guess I might need to dig a little deeper. When I bought the truck the front clip came from another truck I believe was a 69.
So badging hole would be different. Again thanks for heads up and I will need to dig a little deeper.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Well the first search I did confirmed that jimbosprint was right. The front end on my truck came from a 69 truck, thus the two sets of holes, one for "Custom/20" and other for motor size.

I think even though it is not correct because the truck is a 71 I will still fill the bottom holes with new designed emblem.

Here is a picture I found on a thread to confirm that the 69 trucks had them on location closer to door.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Cusrom badges=custom location. ;) After all it is an Idaho Edition.....

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

I agree and that just means 4 more holes that I do not have to weld shut and metal work. Getting there one step at a time.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

They also could have been Deluxe emblem mounting holes on a late produced 71 or 72 Flint built truck. Probably a 69/70 fender though.

Very nice work on it. I'd love to get my beater K20 painted before winter but I'll be glad to just get it drivable. :lol:

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Yes I believe it to be a 69/70 front clip. Here is a picture of the truck when I got it and the hood had the emblem mounted on front which I believe is a 69/70 hood.
The 71/72 hood mounted in the center of egg crate grill.

Here is picture of truck when I first got it.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

It was the special dual bow tie edition. :lol:

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Saturday I spent doing a few more wet sanding passes on the filler primer and seam sealed the lower fender cups and few other places that I thought would make it a better paint job.

Sunday when I got up an out into the garage I had a few hours to waste before I could move the fenders outside to spray at the right temps and still be in the shade. So I removed the front radiator support, inner fenders and a few other small pieces so I can get them scrubbed down and cleaned up for a couple of coats of satin black while the fenders are curing up. All of the above items need no metal work since there is no rust at all. Actually I think this is the first passenger inner fender I ever had that was not rusted at all, usually there is some sort of rust from the battery acid. The sheet metal will get a good scrubbing with soap and water, power washed and then another good scrubbing with a green Scotch Brite. A couple of coats of epoxy primer then a couple coats or satin black.

Shooting the fenders went well except for a couple of nats that I will have to remove after the paint cures up nicely. I expected to get something in the paint when you shoot it outside, goes with the choice. Once the fenders are cures up for a couple of days I will tape off and shoot the inner backsides that get covered with the inner fenders with the 3M under coating that come in a light green spray can.

While the front support and inner fenders are off I will get the truck ready to paint the firewall, possibly the engine, frame forward area and install the new 2.5 EZ Ride lift kit. Makes the most sense when all of the sheet metal is out of the way. Firewall is in great shape with no signs anywhere of rust, the only issue I saw was that the two bolt hole locations that hold the parking brake mount have small hairline cracks or rips in the metal. Will make the metal repairs there and reinforce the area so it does not happen again.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Looking good!
Keep the updates coming.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

After letting the fenders cook in the sun for about 48 hours on the side of the garage, I pulled them to the inside of the garage to address the extremely small nats that got captured in the paint.

I approached the nats in the paint the same way I would address a run in the paint. I use a straight razor blade that has both corner edges sanded to a round corner so that it does not catch an edge. Also I sand the blade with a 2000 grit piece of wet n dry paper on a plate glass to get a little bit of a hook effect to the edge of the blade. Then I proceed to go over the nats that are in the paint with a 45 degree scrapping motion. A few passes and that usually knocks it down to a flat surface. After that I go over each area and color it up with a graphite pencil to get it ready for wet sanding with 1500, 2000 and then 3M Trizact 3000 grit foam pad. Last step will be to go over the fender with a few different different grits of compounds and polishes to bring the shine back up on the single stage paint.

Pictures show after I have already gone over the fenders with the blade and then a once over on each areas with a graphite pencil to mark the locations for wet sanding.

Next up today will be doing some of the wet sanding and getting the other sheet metal (radiator core support, inner fenders, hood/grill post, and other smalls) ready for satin black.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

That's looking really nice. That radiator support looks seriously nice! I've removed some out of California trucks that weren't that nice. The paint on the fenders is looking great!

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Looks good, it's coming along...

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

I was a little surprised that there was no rust at all on the radiator support or on the inner fenders. This might be the second truck in over twenty years with that happening. Not really sure on the true backstory on this truck why the front sheet metal was from a 69 truck and if that was a complete front clip install. Anyways I am glad that it is in the shape it is and did not have rust to deal with.

Thanks for the mention, I appreciate it!
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Was able to get out in the and get the sheet metal power washed that needs some black satin paint to go with the newly painted fenders. After that I moved over to wet sanding the areas that were scraped off with a straight razor blade. Using 2000 grit wet dray and a small modified block, then 2500 grit and final pass over with the 3M Trizact 3000 grit foam backed wet n dry.

It will need a few passes with the buffer with compound then to finish it up with a round of polish. Basically the same process I did on the cab when I had a few runs to fix. Hopefully this will let me move on to the door painting and the hood to wrap up the outer sheet metal painting.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Started looking over the fenders in a little better light and noticed some orange peel in a few places on both fenders and over 18 nats on the drivers fender. So with that discovery I decide to color sand them with 1000 grit paper to get them a little more flatter and allow for a great buff out.

Started with the drivers fender and a Sharpie and began by marking out all nats and one small area on the fender rim that had a little run to flatten out. I knocked down those areas with a Dura-block and 1000 grit wet n dry paper. After that was finished I went over the whole fender to flatten out the paint. Anywhere there was body lines or ridge I stayed away from until the end. I finished those areas with a soft Dura-block and a worn piece of 1000 grit which really seamed to not be so hard on the edges.

Worked and on a few other items getting the other sheet metal ready for paint and contemplating the work path to get the firewall prepped and painted. Since on the 4x4 trucks the motor sits so far back against the firewall I don't see any other way to get the firewall prepped and painted without removing the motor. The only other way would be to disconnect and jack up the cab and move it back a bit on the frame. Again not sure on the path yet.

Pict 1 - drivers fender marked out with Sharpie and ready for sanding
Pict 2,3 - drivers fender after sanding
Pict 4- passenger fender almost done

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Nice job, it looks great to me. I've done show work but if it's going to be driven it looks great! I plow mine through brush to get to mining claims, so nothing fancy on my truck. It still works for a living....lol

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

This will not be a show truck, just a nice driver. When it is finished I will be driving as a daily driver for a few months then I will probably turn it lose for someone else to enjoy.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Time for a update

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Got the fenders ready to go back on and started looking at the attention the firewall needed so I allowed good old project creep to step in. Pulled the motor and found several wiring issues, bad spark plug wires, cracked exhaust manifolds, and a few more minor issues with the motor. While it is out I will freshen it up and add a few new items and paint to the motor.

I inspected the firewall and found no rust spots to repair which is always a good thing. On the driver's side where the emergency brake is bolted to the firewall, the metal was torn/ripped from the stress of the emergency brake being used. I cleaned up the metal real good then laid down a few spot welds and some hammer work to get it straightened up again. After that, I added a washer to each hole and spot welded those over the top of the repair. Then added some spot putty to clean it up. Then laid down some plastic on the garage floor and began spraying the firewall down with some Oil Eater Degreaser. Let that sit for about ten minutes and then go over the whole thing with a green Scotch-Brite and flush with some hot water and a sponge. Tomorrow I will get it scuffed up, cleaned and ready for paint on Monday.

While the paint cures for a couple of days on the firewall I will be getting the motor stripped down, cleaned, and prepped for paint. By then a few of the items I ordered for the motor should be in the shop to install.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Wrapped up the firewall sanding and the final repairs to the torn-out emergency brake area. Went a couple of rounds with DA sander, Scotchbrite, and 220 wet dry paper. Then I removed the wiper assembly and the brake booster from the firewall so I could prep those areas. Only found a few spots where there were some factory runs mostly in the tunnel area. Flattened those out with the DA and 120 grit.

I will go over once more on Monday then clean really good and get it ready for some primer then paint. While that is curing up I will start working on getting the motor cleaned up. So by the latter end of the week, I can start working on getting the front portion of the frame cleaned up and painted along with the inner fenders and core support.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

It's getting nicer and nicer. It's looking good!

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Items purchased to freshen up the motor are starting to show up. Looks like it will be another to days before I have everything I need so I better get on to the cleaning process. This should really complete the freshening up under the hood after all the painting is done. Also a few of the items below in the list will allow the motor to run a little better and have a little more get up and go.

Here are items that are ordered:
Pertronics Flamethrower distributor small Cap HEI
Flamethrower coil
Taylor plug wires
Wire loom
AcDelco R45ts plugs
Edelbrock 1406 auto choke carburetor
Edelbrock Performer intake manifold
Edelbrock valve covers and air cleaner dress uo kit
FelPro gaskets
Ram horn exhaust manifolds
Flywheel
Clutch Kit
New engine wiring harness
Battery cables
New ground straps
VHT ceramic engine paint

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Nice repairs on the e brake mounting holes. That is always good to find no rust on your cowl/firewall. I'm currently digging out an old cab I didn't want to fix 10 plus years ago so I can fix it for a K20 I have. Cabs are hard to find in decent shape and at a good price. Nice parts list for the 350!

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

It's gonna look great and have little get up and go too.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Thanks for tuning in!

I hope it makes a difference when it is all said and done. Thanks!
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Was finally able to get things taped off and etching primer over the areas where I had wet sanded through to metal. Pulled off the wiper mechanism and was able to get everything cleaned up in there so that I can attempt to get a little color in those areas in the cowl. It is a really hard area to paint it right but it does need some paint so I will turn down the nozzle and see if I get it done without too many runs.

The firewall took some time to get it really clean after all the sanding, scrubbing with hot soap and water, degreasing, and then rinse and repeat. Can't wait to get this part done then move on to get the front portion of the frame cleaned up and painted so this can go back together and be mobile again.

Below are a few pictures after the first coat of etching primer is on. Also a picture of all the items that have shown up for the motor.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Jim u are really getting into this one,i look forward to seeing you finish this one

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Looking good!

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Good to see the truck moving forward.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Got out this morning and sprayed the firewall after another once over with wax and grease remover and getting everything set up for a few coats of paint. The paint flowed out nice and now will let it cure for at least another two days before I move on to the next item.

While that is occurring I will finish getting the two inner fender wells and core support ready with the front frame section so this can get back together.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Nice! It looks good..

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Exciting to see such great progress.
Greg

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Very nice!

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Here are a couple of before shots of the frame and area that I wanted to clean up and paint before putting all the front sheet metal back on. Boy is that a chore to get 50 years of gunk and dirt off. I did the best I could do with the products and tools available in the garage and hoped that whatever I did would be better than the way it was.

Anyways i started off with using a needle scaler I bought about a year or so ago and that really did a good job of getting the caked on oil and dirt in a few places. Used several different sizes if wire brushes on handles and about 6 buckets of Simple green mixed with water for scrubbing. Once I thought I was close I went over one more time with Oil Eater solution, rinsed with water then wiped everything down with wax and grease remover. Shot a coat or two of Rust Reformer and then two coats of TEC Chassis Black. The finish came out nice and has a satin sheen which is what i was shooting for.

Did not do the springs since I already have 2.5 lift springs that will go in next, will clean up the axles and steering and shoot with the same as frame rails. When I was pulling off the crossmember i noticed a few cracks in the metal and the back tab ear was broken off so I will do some metal repair and prep it to paint also. Also was able to expose the vin and it matches the truck so that is always a good thing.

Overall I am pleased with how it turned out and it will work good for this application. Next up will be spraying the core support and inner wells.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Very nice!

Greg

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Nice job, it looks great!