Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Got the deluxe heater pulled and the economy heater installed. I need the extra room in the engine bay for the big block. The economy heater was out of a 61 parts truck that came from MO. I dont know that the heater was used much as the original Harrison heater core was still installed and had all the original paint. Looked brand new. Anyways...disassembled and reassembled the heater system and got it installed. I think its runs hotter than the deluxe heater as its a recirculating heater as opposed to a fresh air heater. Also...the top two mounting posts made a perfect mounting location for the wiper bottle and mount. I didnt have to modify the mount to fit on the studs and used the heater mounting nuts to hold the bracket on. I will post pics tomorrow.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Here is a pic of the washer bottle bracket and bottle mounted

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Another pic...heres one before and after to show how much room the deluxe heater took up

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Any chance you could show me how you did the fresh air vent conversion to cables from the lever?
That would solve a space issue for me on the driver's side.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Are you talking about the cab vents? You will have to find a set of 60-61 cab vents that were cable pull operated. Ive got a couple contacts that might hav ethem. Usually you can get them for around $40-60. The cable pull vents are the same size as the manually operated vents and will fit in the stock location. The cables attach to the vents and the cable bracket is just mounted under the dash. I can take them out if you need some pics for illustration, but its actually an easy job. The vent screens are optional. I didnt have a set for a year and they work just fine, although I do notice better flow with them...and it makes them look much cleaner. Let me know where I can help

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Yeah the cab vents.
I was thinking this was a mod you did on original parts in place. I will have to take a look at it now.
Funny how my brain works like that....like how a simple "I wonder if," can turn into a month long mod project. :smoke:

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Well, sorta. They are original parts, just out of a 61. If you can find a donar, the parts are bolt in. The only drilling will be for the cable mounts under the dash, and there are several places that you can put them. If you can find the vents and covers, the cables can be purchased aftermarket for around $15-20 each. Try Lyle in IL -208-946-6173 or tony smith at 913-207-7789. Either one should have the vents and screens. I just got rid of a nice extra set a few weeks ago, so im no help there. I think from start to finish....maybe 45min to do the swap and it was the 1st ones I had done. The vent box has a mount on the inside that holds the cable from moving and it attaches to the vent blade itself to open and close it. It does make open/close the vent much safer when your driving so that you dont have to reach down and kiss the steering wheel to do it. Its one of the changes I made that I use daily and really enjoy.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Found these cables through classic parts of america for $16.95....im sure LMC and the rest will be comperable in price. Also...there is a left and right cable. Makes sense when you mount under the dash. The knob end w/the bracket get bolted under the dash and the cable end goes through the vent box to the vent blade. The gaskets are the same for the manual or cable pull vents and are maybe $5-8 at most.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Here you can see the notch in the screen where the cable goes through to enter the vent box. 2nd pic shows the box in place. The trick to the cable is to adjust it before installing the vent into the kick panel. Then install the screen (cover) last. You can also see how the air flows better with the screens than w/o. The made a big difference in the direction the air goes. Use to just blow in the cab, now its directed towards the driver/passenger. I used some $.99 rubber mounts to hold the cable to the firewall and just used the top screw that mounts the screen to hold it in place.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Plan on getting ready for the clutch conversion to Hydraulic. I want to do the swap prior to the engine swap. All parts ready now, so wont be long.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Thank you for the photos, I think I am going to look at doing this later today!!

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Im going to a yard this or next weekend. There was a 61 that had a set awhile back. If they are still there I'll grab them for you.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Getting the 2nd gen c-10 rims ready for the disk brake conversion. Got paint yesterday...$90 qt. 3 of the 5 rims ready to go...hopefully spray them this weekend.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Be installing the factory dash clock this weekend. Will uplaoad pics Monday

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Apologies for responding in your build thread, but responding to Sgt McMurphy - I still have the complete vent assemblies out of my truck. Vents, screens, cables, etc. They're yours for the price of the shipping if you want them.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Thank you guys! Your offers are a perfect example of why this board is so incredibly better than many of the others out there!!

I appreciate the offers, but once I took my vent out, I determined that a very simple mod was all that was needed. I will post the process this weekend on my build!
Thank you very much though!

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Went and looked at them...no good. Rats nests and rust issues.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

No worries, found out that modifying the handle vents was too easy with a pair of $5 HELP cables from the parts store. I photo journaled it with a video too if you want to take a look.

I see you did not prime your oil pressure guage line. I always wonder if the guage is reading accurately with that much air in the line.

Thank you for looking thru your local junk yard for me though, I really appreciate your taking the time !!

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

It drains when the engine is off. Holds 45psi when cold and around 35 when hot. When I put the big block in, I plan to plumb a hard line. I dont care for the little plastic line running around.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Have had a factory clock for awhile, just got it installed this weekend. Pretty straight forward job. Drill 2 3/16" holes to mount and a 5/16" hole for the wires. I have it wired so that the clock light adjusts with the dash lights. Been installed 24hr and holding correct time. I did disassemble and rebuild the clock. Cleaned it out. Haven't painted it yet, so still in the factory fawn. I will be changing the interior color in the spring, so will paint it then. Takes a little bit of getting used too, not used to something being mounted on the center of the dash.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Last week although gorgeous out, wasn't able to get the rims painted. Last part I need to complete to do the disc conversion. Hopefully this weekend they get sprayed.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Finally got some paint laid down this weekend. Got the rims done so I can finally get the disk brake conversion done. And install new springs/shocks. Cant wait for this part of the project to be over. Also sprayed the OEM license bracket and driver side cast iron mirror arm & head for fender mounted spare.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Heres some pics of the 4 bump disc brake steelie rims and the steering wheel (the cap is a NOS part that was never installed. Looks killer on the wheel. What do you guys think of the color?

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

looking really nice... man, i love that dash.

color looks great.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Thank you. I'll be happier when the interior goes to this blue and white. Im going to do the exterior in the same blue. Finally hav ethe interior the way I want it. So time to spray it. I did the wheel while it was off...had to fix a cancel cam. Figured it would be easier to spray while off. I have carpet for the floor, but haven't decided 100% that Im going to use it. I filled in the wheel while it was off. This is the 1st one Ive done, but was real satisfied with the results. Just takes alot of sanding on the epoxy. Also filled 5 casting holes on the rear. I guess these were from the manufacturing process, but it looks better filled.