Re: New 64 Stepper Project
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Okay I removed the bed mount fasteners one at a time and replaced them with shorter ones and now when the wood is installed there will be no big washers etc. in the bed.
I also got the bed center on the frame within 1/32" all around. Also made sure (shim) all four corners were square height wise. Then did the same thing with the cab assembly. So it's all squared up now. |
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Did I post that I got a 200R4 transmission for the build? I will have it rebuilt of course. Also have a steering box core.
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Sharp truck.
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Thank you. :)
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I took apart the steering box and cleaned the parts up. Man the casing took much work to get it down to bare metal. I watched a couple of videos on Saginaw power steering gear rebuilds and received a overhaul book for Christmas so I dove in. Painted the forging with Por15 and will top coat it Satin Black today. Wire wheeled the cover and end cover then clear coated them (aluminum). Figured out how I will put it all back together including the balls and did a test rebuild with the old parts. Will post pics when it warms up today.
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This is actually fun. :)
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Well the input shaft bearing and seals are too large in the Edelmann 7857 kit. So I called Orielly and have a Precision Power Steering Steering Gear Input Shaft Seal Kit
Part #28401454 - https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/p...rwd?q=28401454 picked up in the morning Saturday (today). I'll take the old seals and see if it's the same. Well I learned the 77 and latter models of the gear box 7802644 have the smaller input shafts, like mine so thats some info I need to find a seal. |
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Okay here is the finished product. The part worked. Conducted all the torque tests the book required and it's ready. I guess I can install it on the chassis now.
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Got in all installed today.
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I really like what you have done with this truck! I'm following along. Just curious...is there no brake master proportioning valve needed in your case (or does it just not show in the picture that you took)?
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I'm used to using one of these (Manual Bias Valve), I (personally) haven't had good luck with the GM type proportioning valve they sell now-days. But that's just me and I'm not needing the light so. . . Everyone likes what they like.
http://image.superchevy.com/f/891131...mage_large.jpg And of course these front and rear (4 wheel disc brakes): https://www.picclickimg.com/d/w1600/...ISC-BRAKES.jpg |
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Just in case anyone wants to know if CaptainFabs power steering bracket aligns the box to the column, I took a pic of the Steering wheel end. The round thing you see at the bottom is the input shaft of the steering box.
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Quote...I'm used to using one of these (Manual Bias Valve), I (personally) haven't had good luck with the GM type proportioning valve they sell now-days. But that's just me and I'm not needing the light so. . . Everyone likes what they like.
Reply.... Makes sense, 64 stepper. Nice that you have manual control front to back. Thanks for sharing that info. |
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Conducted a gravity bleed on the brake system one caliper at a time today.
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Anyway here is the back-side of the frame where the power steering gear box is mounted. Before the powdercoating I had a hole or two welded up. I used grade 8 bolts and extra heavy washers as well as blue locktite and lock washers. :)
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Dang, just saw this. Really clean build going on here. Looks like every little nook and cranny is buffed to perfection. Superb work!
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Okay finished the brake bleeding front and rear. Then operated the electric parking brake unit to adjust the rear brake travel. Since one sides cable is longer than the other I had to make sure they travel the same, so now they do.
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Worked on re-fitting the radiator and side baffles. I had previously made the top front baffle so I installed the rubber and re-fit it all together to see (post paint) how it looked. What do you think so far?
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Man that sure looks good.....Hope the hood spring mod works for you....
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Looks good to me :thumbs:
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So here is a closeup of the top radiator seal I was talking about. I plan on using the hood anti rattle rubber that comes with three pieces in the kit, since I have one for the side I need another for the other side of the radiator if anyone has a spare. :) Instead of the folded over rubber, I will Plastic-dip the end.
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That looks good!
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Installed the lower radiator seal and then stapled it all in. Actually used super weatherstrip adhesive (3M) and wire and patience but it looks okay.
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Then I put together the grill and headlight brackets getting ready to put the grille together and wire it in.
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Wow looks great! You mind telling me your solution to having the proportion valve hanging off the master? Did you build a bracket for it on the frame rail? I am not to happy with the lines all cluttered in the engine bay and yours look perfect.
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Starting on page #7 at post #171 I explain it. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=666226&page=7 |
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I've been wiring up my truck and also installed the wiper motor and wiper transmissions. I had to wire wheel the trans paint them lube them etc. They run perfect after I got the switch dialed in, they even park. :)
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Started wiring the truck, not finished but you get the idea:
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Very clean work.....
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Your wiring looks great. I'm just a little behind you. I've got the fuse panel mounted and I spent about 3 hrs. today untangling wires. This nice work gives me motivation.
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Thanks guys, ya those wires are a mess when you get them I never thought I'd get this far. I had to buy some terminals for the fuse panel and replace a couple wires I thought were too small and remove a couple I wasn't using. That gave me the opportunity to clean it up. In case you want to know - http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...52d14-AWG.html
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I was trying to make sure I bought the right speedo cable so I took an extra piece of 3/16" tube and ran a 63" length from the gauges to the trans are where the planned 200R4 threaded connection will be. So I am sure that it will work.
I know that the ATP Y-804 Speedo cable is 5/8"-18 gauge end and 7/8"-18 Trans end at 63" long. |
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I'll be interested in how the 200r4 works for you.....considered that myself since its a direct replacement for my T350......
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Sent you a PM Joe.
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I started working on the hood lamps. I used an American Autowire grommet for the firewall plug for the hood wires to include a ground wire to the lights, I used some push-mount wire ties in the interior of the hood wiring, they are hard to even notice. The pad isnt installed in the hood on the pic below, hard to see with so much red.
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I plan to use F6 wire covering for most of the wire but it hasnt arrived yet so I got started anyway. I'll change it out when it arrives.
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