Re: PO has me PO'd
 

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5450/9...488b318f_c.jpg
20130626_110117 by jarosaj, on Flickr

Found this hose wrap at the hydraulic shop the other day, keeps my wires together until i can wrap them up. Also, very easy to branch a bundle of wires out of the main harness

Made the clamp out of 1/4" tubing, hope i dont need that hole for the injectors

Measure twice, drill once

Re: PO has me PO'd
 

Sorry to hear about your medical issue....sounds like it could be quite painful.

Your progress looks good :thumbs:

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Yeah, it was quite painful, just showed up one day. Tried working for two months with the pain, but finally realized i needed to see a doctor. Hard part was sitting and not working on my truck:smoke: But, it did give me time to plan out the final steps of the build

Tank arrived yesterday, fuel line fittings should be here today! Tank appears to be a very nice repop, got the kit.....straps, sending unit, seems like a good deal for 200.00. S/B last of the large outlay of cash. Oh wait, still have to buy injecters, and three tires, anyway, that list is getting shorter

Thank goodness im past most of the wiring, a very difficult area for me, not my strong suit

Thanks Cap. for checking in

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The area around the map senser was a difficult area to squeeze everything in...fuel pressure gauge, air temp., adjustable fuel regulater, all had to fit in a small area. The item that made it work was a 90 degree rubber hose that was cut to fit. Found it while wondering around the parts store, many other attempts failed with brass fittings and such. Plus the fact that i had to move the map senser a 1/2" diagonally

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http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3681/9...e36b782b_c.jpg
20130627_115429 by jarosaj, on Flickr

Now the age old question, change filler neck, or buy hose

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A new hose may or may not be easier, depending on the route from the filler to the tank. If you were to change the filler on the tank, as I'm sure you know, certain precautions need to be taken when working around old gas tanks with a flame.

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Yes i do, but still worth repeating for the uninformed....my plan, if i go the neck route, would be to start a hole with a hammer and chiisel, and then follow up with tin snips or a nibbler. My tank has been empty for twelve years, but i still dont want to take the chance and blow myself into kingdom come.

There was an extremely funny story about a guy trying to solder a carb float over in the truck forum. All ended well, but it did show the importance of dealing with fuel in a contained space

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http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3820/9...d5c5f8bf_c.jpg
20130627_120311 by jarosaj, on Flickr

Corvette fuel rails use two 16 mm fittings, while camero use one 16mm and one 14 mm fitting. Make sure you get 1.5 thread size, as 1.25 is available

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3710/9...1df64e37_c.jpg
20130627_115908 by jarosaj, on Flickr

EDIT: HOLD OFF ON THE QUICK DISCONNECTS...just read where there is a chance they can come off, looking at the newer version

Using quick connect fittings to -6 at fuel pump, russell recommends installing plastic lock first to insure proper lock, then push on black aluminum adapter

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Sounds like a good plan.

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OK, this is a NEW fuel tank, NEVER HAD FUEL IN IT!!! Tank depth is 13 5/16" where i am mounting pump, so the three rods have to be lenghtened to at least a 1/4" longer to apply pressure to the overfow tank

My wife always asks me, "why do you always spend so much money on a new part, only to spend time modifying it"

Used my dads old b&d jig saw to cut the hole for the intank pump

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2858/9...7e59199a_c.jpg
20130629_124619 by jarosaj, on Flickr

Now i have to make a aluminum retaining plate to pull the pump flange tight against the tank and seal

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3738/9...359d8d86_c.jpg
20130629_145641 by jarosaj, on Flickr

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HOLY CRAP! BATMAN.....£€<«®¶]$o_OB-):-3%?? @sitting here reading my tablet, when a bomb goes off in my basement.. Wifey heard it all the way up on the third floor, she always checks on me when something untowards happens in the workshop!

Well after the immediate reaction of crapping my pants, and clearing my head, i decide to investigate. First the smell, one i was unfamiliar with, thought a ballast let go, but not quit right

Look over to my right, and one of my cabinet doors is open (where i store aerosols), you guessed it. A can let go! But, not paint. It was graphite, i determined this after i found the label, twenty feet away, can was destroyed

I have a bad habit of keeping old cans, probably have the largest collection on the this board, thirty years worth. Time to change old habits, and clean up this mess

Good news, that musty 125 year old damp basement smell is gone

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I hadnt seen the fuel line pics as I was on vacation when you posted them. Looks good!

So all your paint cans are in the basement rather then garage?

I will say there is quite a collection of cans in my garage. Sometimes I do wonder how nothing has exploded yet.

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Thanks Dale....yeah, my 'basement' is my working space, with all the machinary, work benchs. Parts are worked on in there, then moved into the workshop for assembly. Basement is 60' long with a 12' ceiling, workshop is only 14' by 18',but connected, so there isnt much room in there once you stuff in a lifted truck...

Following along on your build, nice work

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Wow, that is a small workshop, but big basement.

Thanks, its not turning out as well as I planned so far. But I still have alot to go.

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Yeah, when i built it, i was restoring english sports cars which fit in there very nicely, never thought i would be stuffing a a full size Jimmy in there. But, after thirty years of restoration to stock specs. I had an urge to modify something. My boys are into off road and rocks, so i thought id build something to tag along, nothing serious, just the green trails:lol:

On your truck you can always go back and make changes, after you get it done, if you dont like the way something turned out

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7426/9...20bb8b02_c.jpg
20130518_104719 by jarosaj, on Flickr

Heres where i stripped the paint off the fuel rails tubing, couldnt believe they would paint over cadium

Since it was a 100 today, decided to spend the day under the truck with a couple of fans on. Tank is out, so i took the time to start the derusting, permatex rust converter, then brush on undercoating

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2000+ replies and 80 pages! DAYUM! :metal:

Looks great!

Thx for the call, good catchin' up with ya ~

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Thanks for looking, yeah, just like old times....i like the look of your intake:smoke:

Glad to hear your doing well. Yeah, is a rather long thread, but this could be the year. Tank is the last area that i havent taken apart, so, it should be all reassembly from here on out

Re: PO has me PO'd
 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7423/9...32eaea07_c.jpg
20130707_130023 by jarosaj, on Flickr

Rust converter is still drying in the light blue ares, putting on the 3M shutz with a 1" brush that i cut the brissels in half to about 1" , lets you work the undercoating into the deeply pitted ares. If you leave the brissels long, the undercoating tends to just roll over these areas

Try to cover up as much as possible, this stuff has to wear off, and use plenty of ventilation, i have two fans going with the door open

New 56" springs bought from Special K, thanks Tim, will install down the road to get rid of the 4" lift blocks

Seems that i have to relocate my tank 2" forward, to clear a cross brace, and have the fill tube clear a body mount better

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http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3708/9...c5d81c82_c.jpg
20130711_125904 by jarosaj, on Flickr

New problem with the tank install, is anything ever going to go easy on this build. I doubt that i will be able to find these pieces, so i will make them out of aluminum.

Ive determined that moving the tank forward 2" will give me the best all around clearance. Just have to bend the brake hose bracket alittle

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What are those parts? Just spacers/shims? I had mine cleaned up and powder coated and reinstalled them, but was never sure what their function was.

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I think they are more then spacers, with the tabs in both the tank and the spacer, i believe they help lock the tank from shifting forward and reverse. Not sure just my thoughts....

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Sad part, I tried selling some of them earlier in my project. I think I ended up scrapping them.

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Thanks for thinking of me anyway, sadder part, i threw out my bucket seats and factory gas tank skid plate, thinking they werent worth anything.

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ouch :(

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ok, I found them plates and ubolt, still in my scrap pile. If you want, just cover shipping and there yours.

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Are the plates heavily pitted? I just bought some aluminun stock to build the plates, but if yours are in good shape, ill take them. Thanks for thinking of me

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There still kinda muddy, but I see no pitting at all. Send me a pm with your addy if you want them and I will get them out in next few days.

:Edit: Relooked. It is just starting to get to the points of pitting. But they are still very solid pieces.

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Thanks for taking the time, and not going to the scrap yard yet....PM sent

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Do you need the ubolt? Its bent, but could possibly be useable.

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Yes, if the threads are good

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Just sent out, should have friday.
Posted via Mobile Device

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Sweet, thanks Dale. And yet another reason why this board rocks....how much do i owe you for shipping?

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After thinking about it, I got a box of hardware for free off this site. So I'll pass that along.

Re: PO has me PO'd
 

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2875/9...6b25340b_c.jpg
20130717_123126 by jarosaj, on Flickr

Had my nephew make a plug for the fuel regulater, was told or read that you dont need to, (gotta be true, if it was on the internet, bonjour)lol, but i thought it would be better to have the return fuel go directly into the basket, as opposed to just shooting all over and some of it going in the basket

Got the 1/4" 6061 aluminum plate from McMaster-Carr, for the retaining plate at the fuel pump

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2869/9...ef220957_c.jpg
20130717_123808 by jarosaj, on Flickr

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Actually it is preferable to have the return as far away from the pump as possible so as to not aeriate the fuel, and to give the warm return fuel time to cool down.

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I agree with you 100%, but wouldnt the engineers at GM have already addressed these issues, seeing this is an oem fuel pump...i cant see any way to move the return line farther away.

Now that you mention it, i will look into the actual function of the pump, as far as where the pick up of fuel is....seems to have a filter sock on the bottom of the basket, so that must be where the fuel is introduced. Then, somehow, it must take it out of the basket, dunno

If it dumps into the basket, before being used to supply fuel to the injecters, it should have time to deaerate, and cool down, but i dont know at what time the fuel is being used from the basket

Ill check it out, and give you an answer

All that being said, i checked out having a tank being made at a cost between 600 and 900, i opted for a new tank and pump in the range of 300, trying to keep the cost down somewhat

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Thanks Dale, just got the parts, they look 100% better then mine:smoke: usually im the one sending out free parts, now i have to pay it forward. Gives me something to work on saturday, while i figure out where to buy a 3 1/2" hole saw for the fuel pump retaining ring

A liilte soap and water then a coat of rust converter, and paint. These tank spacers should be good as new

Thanks again....

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http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3779/9...dae5394c_c.jpg
20130720_190756 by jarosaj, on Flickr

Happier than a camel on wednesday (hump day)

May be the last of my rust....what a differance between parts from az. and pa. Thanks Dale

Re: PO has me PO'd
 

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2873/9...147dc643_c.jpg
20130720_184933 by jarosaj, on Flickr

Had time to work on the retaining ring. Screwed the plate to some wood, so wouldnt cut into my drillpress base. Used a 3 1/2" holesaw

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7378/9...8afafc00_c.jpg
20130720_190959 by jarosaj, on Flickr