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For anyone interested, Trucks TV on Spike (Saturday and Sunday mornings) picked up a big block 72 C10 for their next project. In the first episode, they put it through it's paces and it wasn't pretty cause we know what they're starting with. Sounds like they are going to throw an LS truck engine and some suspension parts at it to bring it up to date. Might be interesting to see how it turns out. I have to wonder if they've been reading our threads.
Have a nice weekend, |
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Why are they going to ruin a nice big block truck?
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OK guys, for a build on a show like that, what would YOU do?
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Front/rear coilover setup from PB or NoLimit, brakes, wheels, and an LS3/6-speed. Done. They will probably do bolt-ons from CPP or whoever paid the advertising bux.
I agree with starting with a small block or 6-cyl if you're gonna rip the drivetrain out, but if I had their budget... Posted via Mobile Device |
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I would call Rob and buy a wider ride IFS kit!.......................
was that the right answer? do I win something? I love prizes! |
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lol, well I can tell you that Trucks did not call and get one. Good answer though.
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Rob I'm having problems keeping the rear of my truck pointing the right way lol will a rear bar keep the rear from lifting the inside wheel to much and help the "bite" through a corner? As of right now the front hugs and grabs the road but the rear feels like a cow made of jello
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I stumbled across this AWESOME thread a couple weeks back and so far am about ½ way through it. I’ve also watched most of your Youtube stuff and browsed your website. NICE STUFF!! I’ve already picked up some great advise just reading and was going to wait until I finished before asking any questions, but I think my situation will be somewhat unique and it’s not likely been addressed here yet. Plus, I wanna order springs today!
’67 LWB C-10, SBC, M-20 4 speed is what we’re building and are at the chassis stage. I’ve already flipped the trailing arm mounts and will be fabbing my own rear shock relocate parts. I’ll also do the low-hung and long panhard rod. I’ll probably fab my own mounting parts, but may buy the rod with bushing and spherical end. I’m also doing the ¾” LCA relocate. The objective is the “muscle car look” with a small amount of rake. I’ve got 2-1/2” conversion spindles (heavy five lug rotors) already and a 5 lug rear from a ‘70. I have 235/60-15 on 15x8 steel (4.25bs) for the front and 295/50-15 on 15x10 steel (4.25bs) for the rear. What springs would you recommend? I was thinking a 5” for the rear, then I’d fab an additional block that I could “wedge” to perfect the pinion angle. Do you think a 2” spring for the front would be too much? Is there a “bone-yard” sway bar combination that would work decent? Is there a target eye-to-eye dimension for the rear shock I should be trying to hit? Any opinions are greatly appreciated! |
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Duh! '71 rear (Knuckle-head corrected me here!).
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One piece driveline? The Muncie is about 5" longer than the three speed. I'd love to chop that carrier out of my cross member, but am not sure if a one-piece would be too long. I'll have to get one made, so if I have to go biggie-size that's not an issue.
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The length won't be an issue as long as the diameter is increased to match. Pretty much any driveshaft shop can build you the right one for your truck in a size that will live for your intended application. The biggest problem is the small and weak 1310 series U-joints in most of our trucks. They will fail and take out your new driveshaft and possibly tear up your truck if you put any kind of power to the ground and hook up. If you are going to build a custom driveshaft then upgrade to a 1350 series U-joint. It will require a matching pinon yoke change in the rear end and a matching transmission yoke to be purchased but you will pretty much never break a U-joint ever again and your new driveshaft will live a long trouble free life. |
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Not really on topic, but for fun, check out the Hot News on the Good Guys web site.
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Maybe a big daytona wing to keep the rear tires planted? Hahaha Anyways I need a panhard. Any advice on making a good home made panhard? Low is good but what parts should one get? |
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I think the show GreyWolf mentioned also had a few shots of the autocross competitors, that included Hellboy with the decals blurred out.
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I'm back, and I'm on it.
Here's a fun one for ya. Road Racing Terms. Understeer : When you hit the wall with the front of the truck Oversteer : When you hit the wall with the back of the truck Horsepower : How fast your going when you hit the wall Torque : How far the wall moves when you hit it. This is the stuff you realy need to know |
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Thanks for the lingo, but are you hinting at something? We didnt hear from you for a few days and now you are taking about accident stuff! You didnt have an understeer-horespower-oversteer-torque problem did you?
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Maybe you can tell us about threshold braking when an understeer issue is present? Posted via Mobile Device |
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No No, I didn't test out any of those racing terms. Just thought it was funny
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Check out the new issue of Street Trucks. Believe it or not, they have allowed me to right a column. My deal was like this, i'll do it, but you have to print what I give you. I agreed to let them fix the spelling, but they can't re-write it. They are giving me a lot of room here, as long as I talk about performance trucks/suspension. I've got some cool stuff planned, so check it out. It should be fun. No, they are not paying me, but with that, they can't tell me what to write! Part of the decision had to do with the popularity of this thread, and all of your interest. Thanks for the interest. I think we can change the truck world, maybe just a little!
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Awesome !
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