Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

:lol: They are just really big models, right? Looks like some nice parts!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

They sure are. Much heavier & expensive though.....

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The parts laid out like that remind me of pieces on a PVC tree. Some kids never grow up, we just grow older. If mom and dad only knew what they were getting us into :lol:
Don't forget more durable, and useable, and um, yeah... I'm out of good reasons for spending all of this time and money on this old thing... :confused:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

More mild progress as I trimmed the width of the 'rails to fit the notches. Still some more trimming to go before they are ready to drill, but man do they look sweet! ~4 more inches of drop from my already pretty extreme 8" static drop ought to do nicely :D

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Uhmm..... Fun.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks great Chris! :metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I like it!

Since you have the tape measure out, what is the measurement from the top of the notch to the top of the original frame rail?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Oh, yeah, that!
Thanks buddy!
Should be about 6", I'll verify

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Yup, about 6 3/16" right now, which should be closer to 6" once it's all snugged down. This is the 'touring' notch; the 'extreme' is a few inches taller, but I'm not sure by how much.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That would be about perfect for my other truck since I've already raised the bed floor 6.5".

The frame under it turned out not like I wanted it to, so I really want to start over on that one once the Blazer is finished.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Would even leave you a little room for air fittings :D How's that Blazer coming along?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

There won't be air fittings on the truck when I am done with it. Hell, it may not even have a solid rear axle.;)

The Blazer is fighting me every step of the way. Of course, I'm trying to make sure everything is PERFECT, like you do, so some things I've had to do multiple times before I was happy with it. I have conceded to the fact that I will get the air ride and Accuair done before Cruisin' the Coast, but will have to hold off on getting the rear axle narrowed until this winter. That means no 20" gassers until then.:whine: It'll still look good with the 17" slots for now though.

On another note, I have a Kore3 brake setup F/R for a 2nd gen Camaro (GM TS 14" hybrid front and 10/12 bolt 13" Z51 rear) that is just laying around. You used a GM TS setup from Kore3 and bolted it up directly to a C10 LD spindle correct? If so, I may replace my drop spindles and the Blazer get bigger brakes when the 20's go on this winter.:metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Intrigued! Where is the build thread?
No perfection here, just creative photography :lol: I used to strive for perfection, but it's too stressful of a pursuit. I also don't share many of my failures or how long some of these things actually take...
I did use a tall spindle kit, but made for an impala to get the 5x5 pattern. I used LD Belltech 73-87 spindles. Yours sounds like it should work well, but I'd shoot Tobin a quick email to confirm. You'll likely need new brackets for the truck axle out back, but otherwise, I think, good to go.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Speaking of things that take longer than intended, I got the framerails trimmed for final notch fit, then primed/painted the bare metal and proceeded to drill a BOATLOAD of 7/16" holes to attach the radius notches and bridge. I used an old trick of dropping a 1/4" nut in the holes to center my pilot--worked out great!

Looks like not a lot of progress, but it's all final installed and torqued, and fits like butta. It's time now to remove the offending sections of framerail getting in the way of super-static lowness :metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Never thought of doing that while drilling. Excellent.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Those notches look great in there, I love watching your builds come together. You seem way more organized than me. :lol:

No build thread, I haven't touched it since I got the Blazer, except to move it around the shop. I'm seriously contemplating using a C6 manual trans-axle with one of Dobbertin Performance's cradles when I get back on the truck.

It's amazing how long a simple task takes when you can only spend a couple of hours a night working on it... Oh yeah, my photography skills suck, that's why I haven't been posting on my thread, plus nobody wants to see pictures of me cussing at things that don't fit right or bolts/nuts that strip out! :lol:

I already have the 5 x 4.75 BC on the Blazer, and I might as well narrow the 8.5" 10-bolt that is in the other truck since it already has a brand new 3.73 Posi setup in it.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Feel free to use it; pretty sure it's a trick I learned here somewhere. I think when I saw it, they were using it to center punch, but ain't nobody got time fo' dat :chevy:
Thanks, they do look awesome! I just clean up before I snap pics ;)
Solid plan, I think your brake kit will bolt up with no issues if you're using a car axle. I envy your blazer. Immensely.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

sweet:metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks! I'm really liking the quality and ease of installation of these porterbuilt pieces, plus they just look BA!

Took the plunge today and removed a big ol' chunk of framerail :D Time to figure out fuel tank mounting, fuel/brake line plumbing, and hang the axle.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Hung the TAXM, then slung the axle back underneath. She's square and centered at ride height and almost ready to re-meet mother earth.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I like these two pics at mock-up ride height. The axle now resides where the framerails used to--she's gonna be low :D

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks good!

I like the fact that you still have the hitch bolted up!:metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, I needed a rear crossmember; the PB tubular is $100--this one is already paid for :lol:. Probably too low to actually tow anything--maybe it will help protect the tank :confused:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

just turn the drop hitch upside down, then it would be a raised hitch... :lol: Looks good though!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks awesome Chris, can't wait to see the ride height when's it's back on the ground.