Originally Posted by robnolimit (Post 5576384)

Brakes more specifically, the delivery system. That being the pedal, booster and master. If you have ever read about "the pogo incident" from my younger days, you know I have spent some time on brakes. The goal, for me anyway, is to create 1000 to 1250 psi of line pressure at the top end with the type of pedal feel that you want to match you intended driving style.
I have a great three car comparison. Three that are currently in my garage.
1. My trusty sled, 1946 ford convert. Has a 5.5-1 pedal ratio, hydro-boost and a 1 1/8" master. (4wd, oem type 11"ft, 11"rr) This car weighs in at 3400 lbs, and stops on a freekin dime with three cents to spare. I once put a set of really agreesive pads on it, and with Falken tires it stopped from 60-0 in 92 feet, out braking a Porsche! The pedal is very soft and smooth, BUT, in a track setting, or the roads up to Big Bear, the pedal feel is so light its hard to feel the pad contact.
2. The Bullit, 55 F-100, has big 14" 6 piston Baer brakes, the pedal is 6-1, and uses an 8" dual diapham booset and 1" master. This is a standard street/perf set-up. The motor makes good vacuum and it is very comfortable to drive. Stop and go is no problem. Pedal feel is great. It does take a bit more effort than my '46, but much less than a stocker old p/u. I like it. When the Bullit was fresh build, I had got a hold of a bad master right from the start, the fading master cost me three points at the first Truckin Throwdown. Had it not failed, I would have won by two points. Aaargh!!!, but, its an easy fix and now works perfect every time.
3. HellBoy. My goal was to eliminate anything that could fail, and to have lots of adjustment for tuning. I used a Wilwood hanging pedal at 6.5-1 with tandem masters. The front is a 3/4"bore, and the rear is 13/16". The diffenerce in bore size puts a lille more pressure to the front brakes. The balance bar assembly allows adjustment to the front and rear brake without a proportioning valve. It's a pain to bleed. It looks really cool. Yes, it works very well, and the pedal feel on the track is consistant. It is easy to feel the brakes, and modulate pedal input. But, it takes a firm push to stop it, so on the street you have to be used to it. Most of us are not used to manual brakes any more. It takes some getting used to.
I'll put together some info on this for you.

Originally Posted by MrBlue (Post 5578534)

Rob,
First thanks for all the information. I know that I read this somewhere between page 1 and this last page, BUT What shocks do you recommend. I am going to lower with springs, this is a street driver, not a racer. Thinking of 3-inch front and 4-5-inch in the rear
Thanks,
Victor

Originally Posted by MrBlue (Post 5578534)

Rob,
First thanks for all the information. I know that I read this somewhere between page 1 and this last page, BUT What shocks do you recommend. I am going to lower with springs, this is a street driver, not a racer. Thinking of 3-inch front and 4-5-inch in the rear
Thanks,
Victor

Originally Posted by robnolimit (Post 5599425)

I'd go with a 1" splined bar and arms. I tried a 1 1/4", and even at .065" wall, it's a little stiff. Once you're set up with the 1" bar, you can change bars easy. I'd start with a 1" solid.

Originally Posted by robnolimit (Post 5599425)

I'd go with a 1" splined bar and arms. I tried a 1 1/4", and even at .065" wall, it's a little stiff. Once you're set up with the 1" bar, you can change bars easy. I'd start with a 1" solid.

Originally Posted by robnolimit (Post 5599449)

So, what to do.

Originally Posted by robnolimit (Post 5603201)

Oh yes, I was gettin to that. Hydro-boost units use the pressure from the power steering, (hydrolic pump) And have a great amplifier advantage. There are many factors here too, such as p/s pump output, hydroboost bore size, and the pressure loading of the acumulator. As a general rule, I would use a multiple of 3.5 to 1 for most hydro units. The downside is a loss in pedal feel, some of this can be gained back by lowering the pedal ratio.

Next up, the good, the bad, and the ugly of all these items.

Originally Posted by gringoloco (Post 5613013)

Any tricks of the trade for stabilizing a solid axle over mid-corner bumps?
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Originally Posted by robnolimit (Post 5613930)

Front or rear? what year?

Originally Posted by gringoloco (Post 5613013)

Any tricks of the trade for stabilizing a solid axle over mid-corner bumps?
Posted via Mobile Device

Originally Posted by gringoloco (Post 5613984)

Rear, in a 67-72. I know this is an inherent issue with a solid axle vs IRS, just wondering if there is anything that can be done to 'tame' the unsettling on less than perfect surfaces mid corner. Seems like the other modifications made to increase handling (poly arm bushings, longer panhard, anti-sway bar) will reduce articulation of the axle and contribute to the 'skipping' feeling.