Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

That makes sense!:lol:

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

Ha! Your vote may win. I'll look into those, too. I'm limited by the width of the narrow steel wheels, though. They're actually Ford rims that I believe are from a van.

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

Thanks, Pop's!

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

Thanks!

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

Right on, Marshall! Thanks so much for your service out there. I'm humbled by your comments and visit. Stay safe out there. Anything I can do to help with your build in the way of pictures, just ask.

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

Most definitely. That was somewhat of an (expensive) adventure in itself. You'll see what I mean.

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

After I removed the ball joints from the spindles, I brushed semi-gloss Rustoleum on them to match the frame and differential housings...

Attachment 751969

Then I watched them dry...:smoke:

Attachment 751970


Here I am installing the lower ball joint on the right spindle...

Attachment 751971

Then the upper ball joint on the right spindle. Notice the breaker bar...


Attachment 751972

Attachment 751973

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

Man, I have to say you're making me really jealous.............................. I don't see heat marks or a torch anywhere in your pics. :lol: Every old truck here would require that. Heck, it starts at 3-5 years old and goes down. :lol: Nice work man!

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

Okay, most (sane) people insist on using a vise to remove and install the ball joints. I will show you how you can do this WITHOUT a vise. Be forewarned, you have to really muscle the ball joints in there with the help of some wisely-applied leverage. I don't own a vise so I had to do it this way, and frankly, I enjoyed the challenge. If you have access to a vice though, by all means, use it. First get your 1/2" drive breaker bar and the hydraulic jack handle and assume this position...

Attachment 751980

The trick is to hold the spindle end with your left hand and push downward while tightening the press with your right arm. Basically, you counter the weight. This is the right spindle. It is definitely more of a challenge to install the ball joints than to remove them. You really cannot do this without the breaker bar.

Attachment 751981

A view of the driver side spindle...

Attachment 751983


Voila!


Attachment 751982
Attachment 751984

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

Thanks! I really appreciate it!

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

lookin REAL GOOD! Hey what is the flange size on the ramhorns? 2.5?

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

You know, I've been expecting the worst in every piece I tear down on this truck but I have to say I've been very impressed. Although the truck is from South Dakota, I believe it sat on a farm for a very long time, so other than the usual rust spots and the back 1/3 of the frame being a little rustier than the rest, I've come off pretty well. Either that, or the PB Blaster has really saved me.

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

Yeah, 2.5 inches. I was pretty impressed since in my research this is the much sought-after Corvette size.

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

Okay, so initially I "only" wanted to replace the ball joints. However, after removing the driver's side axle shaft and witnessing the gunk on the axle housing, something obviously was not right. I had also noticed some seepage where the diff housing on the driver side meets the axle housing tube but I had hoped it was just leaking power steering fluid. I drained the fluid, and was impressed by the condition of the 4.10 gears. Be sure to take note of the exact position and side of the bearing caps because they must go back on the same way. After removing them, you will likely need a pry bar to bring out the ring an pinion. Be careful not to damage any teeth...


Attachment 754908


For the most part, the passenger side seal held up very well, the spring around the rubber was in good shape, but some rust was evident on the top...

Attachment 754909


However, the driver side seal was toast. The circular spring was broken. A catastrophe waiting to happen. You can see it here...


Attachment 754910


On the passenger side, you can push in the seal with the axle shaft. The driver side is a little more challenging, so I "fabbed" up a seal pusher with the indispensable hydraulic jack handle, some masking tape, and a seal installer set I rented from O'reilly's...

Attachment 754911

I then cleaned the axle housing tubes by first wadding up a paper shop towel that I soaked with DEP industrial degreaser and pushed it through each of the tubes with the jack handle tool. Check out the mess...

Attachment 754912

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

Here is what was pushed in...

Attachment 754922


I then soaked and wadded up an old sock to finish up the cleaning. I did this several times until I saw no more gunk in there. Here is what they looked like afterward...

Attachment 754923
Attachment 754924

Then I ordered a new set of seals from Superior Axle. I checked locally but the prices were outrageous compared to Superior. I would have supported the local stores, but come on, I'm on a budget. There are two different types of seals. One has the "funnel" on the outside which helps guide the axle shaft in. I wish I would have gotten these, since they are also easier to remove, but I was somehow "tricked" by Superior. On their website, they pictured the Spicer ones with the "funnel", but they sent BRG seals. The part number is DS36352. They were only $6.25 each compared to the BRG seals at Napa for $18.99 each. Superior has since changed the picture on their website. Maybe an honest mistake, and in the end no big deal, but still, I like to know what I'm getting before I pay for it.

In order to install them, you are going to have to tap them very carefully with a small hammer because the seal and bearing press will not fit inside the diff housing. Here they are installed...

Attachment 754925
Attachment 754926

I also sprayed some Rustoleum into the axle tubes to cover up the exposed inner tubes in the hopes that this would prevent any future surface rust.

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

The moral of this story is you should ALWAYS replace your inner axle shaft seals when doing ball joints. Do not take short cuts and assume they are okay!!!

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

Nice work!

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

Okay, so here is the infamous Spanner socket. I got it from Rockauto.com for $18.00 or so. I removed the spanner nut and put in the new one.

Attachment 755076

Put the boots on the joints with the marks on them pointing inward like this...

Attachment 755077

When you put the spindles on the axle housing, you have to tighten the lower one first. Be sure to place a jack underneath and push it up, otherwise the joint will keep on spinning. This keeps pressure on the ball joint and keeps the tightening nut from spinning. This is what I did...

Attachment 755079
Attachment 755078

You have to follow the OEM specs, and you HAVE TO FOLLOW THE TIGHTENING SEQUENCE!

This is straight from the 1973 OEM assembly manual:

1) Tighten lower ball joint to 70 ft/lbs

2) Tighten upper ball joint adjusting sleeve to 50 ft/lbs

3) Tighten upper ball joint castle nut to 100 ft/lbs.

When all is said and done, I had about 2 threads peaking out from under the top like this...
Attachment 755080

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

One thing I should say about Moog ball joints. There are all kinds of rumors and hype on the internet that bash the Moogs. People say they are too tight, they don't work, the F250 mechanics don't like them because they are way too tight, blah, blah, blah.

I, too, struggled a bit, but working on them for a while I finally figured things out...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=462237

I followed the GM specs and they were indeed way too tight. So I removed the spindle assembly (with the joints in place of course), reinstalled them, and nothing changed. I did it a total of 3 times. Here is what I did when things finally worked:

First, I removed the spindle assembly with the ball joints--do not remove the ball joints from the spindle.
Then I tightened the lower one to spec.
Then I fingered-tightened the spanner nut on the top one to about flush with the axle housing.
Then I tightened the upper joint nut to spec.
Then I LOOSENED the upper joint nut.
Then I tightened the spanner nut to spec.
Then I tightened the upper joint nut to spec.

I checked the spindles, and sure enough, they are perfect. I don't know what this did, but I'm telling you this worked. You can check them with a fish scale at the spindle. GM says there should be no more than 25 lbs of pull. Some say you should set them at about 15-18 lbs. Finally, you want to install the lower ball joint lock ring and the upper ball joint cotter pin, and then the grease fittings and grease 'em up.

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

Next I reinstalled the differential assembly after cleaning it up with brake cleaner. The bearings looked really nice, but the races not so much, so I bought some new races and put the diff back in. You have to work it in a certain way. I put it in beginning at the bottom and then tapped it in with my trusty Harbor Freight dead blow. Then I tightened the caps to spec.

Attachment 755102
Attachment 755103

Then I installed the 4 inch Rough Country raised steering arm after painting it a fancy bright red.:smoke: The conical washers are not flush like in the OEM arm, but they grab on nice and tight. Apparently this is a common "issue".
Attachment 755104

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

That is a common issue, but I think they designed this part to be easier to remove than the stock one. I've heard they didn'r bore the wedge bore as deep to allow the wedge to sit up a little higher to be grabbed and removed easier. This is what an engineer from Rough Country told me when I was asking questions on a build I was dreaming up.

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

That makes sense. From what I recall, I was thinking there are a couple of different angle sizes of the washers, but I could be wrong. I called a few sources to ask around--Offroad Design, Blackbird Customs, and even Rough Country. They all said it was common, but the guy at Rough Country didn't sound too convincing. He said it "should" be okay. :lol:

Your explanation sure makes me feel a lot better about it, though.

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

The next thing you should always do when replacing ball joints is to also replace your axle u-joints. I sprayed all 4 shafts with silver Rustoleum.
Attachment 755150

I chose to go with the stronger non-greasable Spicers. I ordered them from Superior Axle, paid $60 shipped.

I have to say though that I had some issues with these. To be fair, I screwed up the installation on the first one. DO NOT do this...

Attachment 755151

I tapped the cups in with the hammer and then pressed them in with the rented ball joint press. It was pretty tight. I believe I may have dislodged the bearings when I was tapping the cup with the hammer because I heard a snap and then...
Attachment 755152

Needless to say, I was pretty pissed. I then installed the other one with the press alone, but the shafts seemed to be binding as I was moving them around. The C lock rings fit on there REALLY tight. It just didn't seem like they fit right, and it took a lot of effort to press them in. I just didn't like the way it felt.

In the end, I removed the Spicers and went to O'reilly's to get the Precision Super Strength non greasables. I'd be pretty surprised if there was a difference in strength. Here they are for comparison...

Attachment 755153


So $60 bucks down the drain. Here is the correct way to press in the U joints. I also used a socket (I forget the size) with the press to press them in fully...

Attachment 755154

The C snap rings on these felt just right, and I could feel absolutely no binding after installation. I don't know what it was, as I know "everyone" uses the Spicers, but I just couldn't figure it out. Someone told me I should have tapped the outside of the axle shafts near the caps to kind of make the bearings settle.

I've used the Precisions before, and apparently they are also made in the USA, so at this point I'm just moving forward.

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

Here they are installed...

Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
 

Next it was time to separate the hub from the rotors. They will not necessarily just come off, even though they are "supposed" to. They are held in by the studs. I removed the studs by first threading one of the lug nuts flush with the top of the stud, and then I "tapped" them out with a 4 lb sledge. They come off pretty easily. The night before you might want to soak them with some PB Blaster like this...

Attachment 755168

Here is where they are supposed to "just come off", but this is what I had to do...

Attachment 755169

I lightly tapped them loose with a flat blade punch. Disregard the bare toes.