Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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One other option is to get the fittings off of some old hoses (wrecking yard is a good source), take them to RMACC or the Parker Store and have them weld on new ferrules, buy some quality hydraulic hose, take it all home, set it up, mark everything for clock position and take it back and have them crimp the ferrules. This gets it done with quality hydraulic hose, you get to run them how you'd like, but they are not a permanent solution. Whatever you do, DO NOT buy replacement power steering hoses from ANY parts store. They are all made by one company and they are all crap. They are not even trying to make quality. Just a part that fits the vehicle and makes them money. Hydroboost. You can use pretty much any GM hydroboost, but I like the mounting plates from the C/K trucks from 88-99(ish). The plate that mounts them to the firewall shares two holes with our trucks. Take it off the HB, drill two holes in it, flip it over, open the hole in the firewall a fuzz (for nut clearance) and bolt it on. There is a minor length difference in the actuator rod, but it isn't tough to figure out. Steering boxes. '79 and down is standard thread inverted flare. '80 and up is o-ring with metric threads. They are interchangeable in all regards except for the LINE threads. The pitman shaft on the Dodge is NOT the same as a 4wd GM box. The Dodge uses a fully splined pitman shaft with four master splines whereas the GM box uses a pitman shaft that is approximately half splined and has a pinch-bolt through the pitman arm (and corresponding groove in the pitman shaft) instead of a nut that threads on the bottom of the pitman shaft. A 2wd GM box has a fully threaded pitman shaft with four master splines also, but I am not sure they are the same size. I think they are, but that's about as sure as I get on the subject. (2wd and 4wd GM boxes are identical except for the pitman shaft and yes, some are interchangeable, i.e. use a 2wd pitman shaft in a 4wd box) So, pick a box that has the features you need and go with it. If you decide to make your own hoses with the steel braided lines, you can keep your current box and just get inverted flare to JIC (AN) fittings and you're done. Another nice bonus to making your own. If you decide to change the box down the road and you go with a later model metric fitting box at that time, just get the two adapter fittings that go from 16mm and 18mm to JIC (AN). It's that simple with the braided lines. One other recommendation, use a remote power steering reservoir. I used one from PSC that has an integral filter in it, but even a stock GM one could be modified to work. Run the return lines from the HB and steering box to the remote reservoir for MUCH(!!) easier bleeding of the system. I also recommend a cooler and filter in the system. How you do it (if you do it) is up to you, but the PSC stuff, while not cheap, is well engineered and constructed for ease of installation, service and very durable. Read through the tech tips section on the PSC site to avoid some easy mistakes (like the ones I made). They also have quality steering boxes that are right in line with other "good" rebuilt units (beyond parts tore quality). |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
If I can find the original sending unit I'll definitely use it. If I can locate it. Haha
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
Just got a call asking for "what you can find for a power steering/ hydro boost pump for the Cummins with out the vacuum pump."
In the 94, the vacuum pump is driven off the drive gear, then drives a pump adapter, then the PS pump. http://www.perfdiesel.com/assets/images/VAC-PUMP.jpg What options exist for removing the vacuum pump and going straight to the PS pump? |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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UPDATE: it now looks as if the pump above is modified from a 4BT engine, not a 6BT. It's not that it has been modified, but rather that the pump itself was upgraded/replaced on the 4BT assembly. http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_0271.jpg In looking at some of the other conversions, I haven't seen you guys have to contend with this, or maybe I've missed something? |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
I think most people keep the vacuum pump to run all the heater/ AC controls, so its pretty handy to already be on there.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
yeah, i dont see a reason to eliminate the vacuum pump unless there is some otherwise totally unavoidable reason it has to be removed. if you had to you could build a bracket to mount a normal GM pump and drive it off one of those kilby add on vbelt pulleys.
there are also a few gear driven gerotor type pumps that were available on medium duty applications that had no air compressor. those should work but may require a better box and or a few bypass pressure adjustments. also, there are some 4bt applications that used the saginaw style pump with no vacuum pump. here is one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cummins-5-9-...item20d31e9f3c i think the fritolay box trucks used them and maybe a f-700 type ford maybe? ryan |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
He doesn't have a/c, so he really doesn't need a vac pump to run anything.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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I'd seen the pump on eBay already. I also found a lead that led me to RockAuto to validate, but a 1989 Chevy P30 vehicle does come with a 3.9 Turbo Diesel engine option. They have the steering pump numbers, but they don't have any listing on the actual adapter. The other thing I've found is that some commercial applications of the 5.9 did offer a steering pump, but those get even pricier. Example So, I've done as much homework as I can on this tonight, send Randy an e-mail and we will see what he comes back with tomorrow. Thanks again for all your insight & information, as a Cummins newbie, I really do appreciate it. |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
Don't the 67-72 non AC trucks still have vacuum actuators for the heater stuff like the 73-87 trucks or is everything cable operated on them?
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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no problem! |
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If you do end up with a ESN that helps better locate what you're looking for feel free to text me, 682-365-9629. I work for a KW dealer and have full access to Quickserve. I know we have a couple of those medium duty PS pumps and they are nice but I don't know if they would be low enough pressure for our application. We just use the normal 2nd gen style vacuum pump PS pump combo on our stuff. |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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Randy's concern isn't the length or width of the PS pump. The concern that he has is that the fittings on the pump exit to the left, directly into the frame rail, and are causing an issue. His initial thought was that if he can remove the vacuum pump, and move the PS assembly forward, he'll pick up a little clearance as the frame bends back down towards the front. So, the question (and I'll do a little bit of research myself this weekend) is: Is there an appropriate PS pump for the Dodge that has the fittings pointed either straight back or down? |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
And, now for the moment we've all been waiting for.... pictures!!!!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v...o/100_0788.JPG Randy and Me https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-w...o/100_0791.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v...o/100_0792.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-v...o/100_0793.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-b...o/100_0794.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4...o/100_0796.JPG |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
is that just mocked up or final location? are you running the std fan or are you going to run electrics? looks like a darn good start Scott!
here is a picture of mine and the relationship to the frame rail. i know yours is probably going to be mounted in a different place, from the looks of it a little higher and that should elimintate any issues with the frame interference i had. http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l8...ps4810c52f.jpg |
Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
i should add that i did a little manual tweaking to the return fitting. i am also considering pulling the can off and welding a JIC37 fitting in its place so i dont have to worry about hose clamps and cheesy hose.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
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The plan is for me to run a mechanical fan, but I may look at adding an electric pusher like on someone's Suburban (not naming names here...) If I recall, you clearanced your firewall a little bit to get your engine to sit back further, so you're right that the mounting locations will be slightly different. |
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