Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

I never tried sway bars. Doubt if I'll be swayed from avoiding them.
On the other hand. If you can't remember the last time you replaced the shocks, you likely need new ones.

Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

Punny! The previous owner had plans to bag it, so nothing was done on the suspension, have replaced bushings, brake pads, etc., and it wallows over dips.

Ordered a few parts from Truck Stop Car Shop. The easiest thing to fix, ever, was adding the legal light.
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The CA warning stickers crack me up, I'm gonna die of cancer or cause birth defects with these parts? :lol:
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Getting the heater control box in was fun. :censored: Instead of re-using the lag screws for mounting to the dash, I got metric bolts with nylon nuts.
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

Yeah. If you're 8 months pregnant and sliding under the truck on a creeper, and a Heater Control happens to fall off the bench and strike you in the abdomen, then yeah...It could happen. Cancer? I dunno. Might have to boil a dozen of them in a big cauldron and make soup out of it every week, to get any carcinogenious[sp?] effect.

Might be a tougher world if more moms-to-be changed their own oil.

TPD cops stopped me in the Jimmy a few years ago, allegedly for not having an illuminated license plate. Fer Christ's Sake! It's bright lemon yellow and scotchbrite reflective. Shouldn't need a light. Actually the Sgt explained it was Training Night, and he wanted a ''safe, non-threatening'' situation where his Policewoman trainee wouldn't likely be in danger, so she could have practical experience with a vehicle stop. A '71 GMC Jimmy looked easy. I think they had not been briefed on the then-new, YOM plates. I didn't get a ticket or even a verbal warning, just a briefing by the Sgt, with an apology, and a request to evaluate his student's technique.
I then tried to fix the License Plate Lamp. Wire was open. Spliced it. No joy. Bulb was out. Replaced it. Still dead. Ran a ground strap from the rear frame to the back bumper. Still no joy. I decided to forget about it. Next night, it worked fine. Go figure.

On the pickup: the rear bumper has been so scrunched up by impacts over a hard life, that when I had it straightend out, and hung a Class III hitch, there wasn't enough vertical space to fit the plate. So I pulled the Light assembly -- like it was never there. The AZ plate is mounted top-end-flush on the passenger side of the rear bumper. Cops never seem interested in it.

Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

Veddy veddy interesting.

All I have is some glamor shots from tonight.
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

Nice.

Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

Getting annoyed by gas smell. I should get a new gas cap, the gasket is totally shot. The locking caps suck? Need to learn what 'ecc' is, and if my truck has that.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...ocking+gas+cap

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...ocking+gas+cap

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...ocking+gas+cap

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...ocking+gas+cap

Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

I got a gas cap from GMC Paul for 8 or 9 bucks. Tight fit no leaks.
Had been buying Stant caps from O'Reilly's and Auto Zone, but the rubber dried up and cracked after a while. I then got a tip from the forum that NPD had the perfect gasket, for 67-71 Chevys and Ford Mustangs for only one dollar. Fit was perfect, but the ethanol [+ whatever else] added to AZ pump gas soon wilted this gasket too.
Happy with the GMC Paul cap.
ECC [Evaporative Closed Circuit?] is emissions compatible stuff, came in w/ MY '71 or '72.
There's a return line from the fuel pump back to the tank, and a carbon particle fume escape vent under the hood. And vent holes in the Driver Side ''B'' Pillar.
Not for '68s. Forgetaboutit.
How is the shape of the filler neck grommet? If cracked, that can also import fumes.
I used to have locking gas caps. Sloshed a lot of gas over the side in hard right turns. Also lost a lot from evaporation when parked in the Desert Sun. I finally figured I'd been paranoid, and using the 'locking'' gas cap was losing me fuel. Not many theives have the time to siphon off gasoline. Too low a score for too high a risk. Millenials hate the taste of Regular, anyway.

Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

Thanks for the information! I cut out cork gasket, and that is working so far. But pressure builds up, so have to stand back when opening the cap. I had a locking cap on the '48 that I had last century, it was a PITA.
I got all new spring mounts on the back now (since one was missing, had to buy a set), an additional improvement in ride.

Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

If you get a Self Venting gas cap, you won't have to open the cap to release pressure. Excess vapor pressure in the tank can cause excess fuel pressure at the carburetor.

Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

I should take a picture of this cap, it has a hole on the inside center. Haven't noticed too much pressure when opening the cap, and it's running like a charm (knock on wood).

Put Christmas lights on.
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

Reminds me of one of Robert Redford's less successful movies, "The Electric Horseman''.
I fixed a couple of electric gripes on my Stepside.

I'd been having trouble with the charging system. A new Batt, Alternator and EVR in August, had resulted in the new EVR being defective -- despite being an O'Reilly lifetime warranty replacement. It charges -- sometimes -- but the field coil/contact would stick, causing the Red GENERATOR light on the dash to stay on after removing the key. A sharp thump on the left fender, near the amber reflector lens, would kill the light, by unsticking the contact. After the Batt went dead last week, from not disconnecting it overnight, and the Red light sneaking back on, I suspect -- I decided that New parts are all NFG. I cannibalized the EVR off my '67 K/10 Suburban [marked 5/97] and put it on. Works greak. Charges 14+ VDC at idle. No Red light w/key in OFF.

Then I went after my dead Tach. It had stopped, indicating 1800 RPM at all speeds, engine on or off. Instrument lit up with all the other gauges, but that's a different circuit. A brand new Auto Gage 2300 Tach [same item] was $65 at Jegs and $64 at Summit. Before I plunked money down on a new tach, I had to make sure the wiring was all normal, or there wasn't a dead bee stuck in the internal clockwork.
Continuity from the coil terminal thru the firewall to the line just under the dash 'rang' good. Then I pulled the Instrument Panel. Sure enough, there was a break in the red [+] line to the tach, caused by that red wire getting caught by the in-cab clutch spring, that tore it apart at the butt splice terminal. A new butt splice, and after putting it all back together, worked fine.

While I had the dash apart, I wanted to replace the plastic connecting multi-plug that goes into the printed circuit on the back of the instrument panel. One of the 'Ears' [locking tabs] had broken off. I had gotten a new plastic housing from Classic Industries, but last night, it could not be found.
So I quit while I was ahead and just buttoned it up.

Also R&R'ed all the Radiator and heater hoses on the '71 Jimmy. There was a hole in the old lower radiator hose. That required a back flush, a detergent quick flush, adding 2 gallons of 100% Prestone cut w/2 gallons of distilled water, and a new radiator cap. Now it only needs alignment and fixing the leaky P/S gearbox, and it's good. Although the big yellow shocks are covered in greasy black dirt. Can't remember when I last changed them out...

Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

Been awhile, haven't done anything with Blue Cloud. Reminds me, I should pay membership, so I can sell the shocks that are wrong for my truck. Stupid me, ordered a set for C-20, with leaf springs.

Went with the car club on a cruise to Seligman.
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Been a very long time with no activity. Most snow this winter:
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

Yeah, I've been hibernating too. We didn't get much snow. Now it's fixin' to bake. But this week it's been mild. Rained briefly Monday.
No work since November. Maybe a couple days in May.
Filled up the pickup yesterday. Didn't gorge, stuffing extra jerry cans as I usually do. Not at $2.69/Gallon. Just added 10 gallons to top up. I have about a dozen full cans, I need to burn off.
GMC's giving me brake problems again. I'll call in Dennis when I can line up more cash.
Take it easy,
Brian
So you must've renewed your membership, since your avatar's in Blue.

Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

argh lol, ...more Rt. 66 pics, ...you're killing me lol :)

Great shots as usual ;)

Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

Yes, have shocks and a couple parts to sell.

Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

Thanks! :lol:

Ok, had to photo bomb these pickups in Prescott at a new antique store (there are several downtown, like we need another one ;)).
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

Got driver quality backup lenses from burb71, the old lens fell apart when I pulled it out.
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

Fleetside and Blazer parts are easy. Suburban tail light lenses are rare.

Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

Kurt, You have a great photographic eye!

Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

THANK YOU!

I might change my icon picture.
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I report that Blue Cloud runs like a champ, but leaks more oil than I want. It bogs up long grades, and was bucking the 50 MPH headwind okay, but was a handful steering. It's "only" a 307, so is it worth tearing apart and putting new seals in, or just find a better engine?

Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

The 307 is an orphan. It gets very little love or respect from the engine-building ''Hot Rod'' community. The 283s were revered for their spunk and surprizing torque, the 327s were legendary for being able to get turned into race machines. Either of those would get enthusistic support for a rebuild project. I did once talk to a wizened old mechanic in a long-gone junkyard in South Tucson. [C. 1994, I was buying a GM HEI for my '67 K/10 Suburban]. He had a 307 in his Camaro, that he'd rebuilt with some snakey tricks. It was so hot, he wouldn't let his goofy teenage nephew drive it... Some weird trick with bevelling an angle on the heads. IDK the theory there. Long Gone Technology now.
Anyway, unless you're going for Concours d'Elegance Originality points for having the Original Engine [''Numbers Matching'' does not exist for trucks. They were expected to use multiple engines in their service career] -- best advice is to get a Chevy 350 Mr Goodwrench Crate Motor. It will have a 3 year, xx,000 mile warranty. Fit perfectly, and give you 43 more cubic inches of power. Also economically priced. And probably less than a thorough rebuild of the 307.

Shop around. I got $100 off the quoted retail from Matthews Chevy at O'Reilley Chevy * for having a ''good Irish name'' -- Even though they were 10 miles out of the way and crosstown. [* No relation to the auto parts chain.] I have a crate 350 in my '71 GMC Jimmy. 21 years old and still running strong.
Jegs and Summit are good prospects.

Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

Kurt, That 'Mountain Lions" photo looks great :)
...and ditto on the 350 crate engine idea, as noted especially with the warranty.

Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

Kurt if you want a Second Opinion, put a post under _Engine and Driveline_ with a title like: ''Should I rebuild my Original 307?''

Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

The '69 I had before, had that engine! Makes total sense.

That idea sounds like a flamewar. :fry: *edit* I found this from 2018: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=762135&page=2

Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
 

Sorry, Kurt. I didn't get you. Did your '69 have a Mr Goodwrench 350 or a 307?
Love the coffee table gag.
Personally, I have no experience with running a 307. I've had 350s, a 454 and I'm on my third * 292 L6.
The BBC 454 was big ugly beautiful brute with a bigdog thirst. In my '67 4x4 K/10 Suburban it was a tank. Off road, it was bruteforce vs nature. But the fuel gauge needle spun down in equal and opposite reaction to the speedo needle going up. I had the stock underbelly 20 gallon tank, and a PO's homebrew 16 Gal aux tank [made from an Army surplus gunpowder can -- w/ no gas gauge], even then I had to keep a lookout for gas stations on the way. 6 City -- 8 Highway. And only 91 octane please. Not a feasable rebuild when gas is around $2.95/Gal for Regular. Also Fred Flintstone had better brakes.
Not sure what displacement V8 was in my '71 Jimmy when I bought it. Local Unocal mechanics said it was a strong motor when checking it out for me
before I bought it. PO said it was a 327. He lied. Might have been a 307 or a 350. It flunked Pima County emissions. I played around with the carbs. It came with a non-original QJet. Traded that in at Checker Auto -- not knowing any better -- got a dog of Reman QJet back. Then I tried a Holley 780 CFM doublepumper, a friend gave me free. I was using some 105 Octane, when it sucked valves. Valves on Cyl's 6 and 7 got loose enough to crush the ceramic middles of both spark plugs. [Some bad JuJu that's over my head there.]
Anyway I bought a fresh Crate 350, Weiand intake, Carter Performance 9625S AFB, and Heddman headers. Winning combo. Later, a GM HEI.
If you had an L6 [I-6s are in Fords and Toyotas] I'd be emotionally involved, as my C/10 came with a 292 and I've rebuilt 2 of them. If you had a 250, I'd talk you into a 292. It's got a lot of torque, doesn't rev very high, but mule-like endurance and longevity. I got 250,000 out of a 1977 build.
[* Original Engine -- rebuilt after 25 years in boxes]

Flame war topics are:
V8 vs L6
Headers vs Rams Horn
QJets vs Holleys vs Edlebrocks [Carter dropped out of the Carb game]
Wix vs AC Delco