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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Firewall Labels
Ok, so here is what I came up with. I labeled everything I could find pics of both old setup and new. Too bad I didn't take better pics of before..... Old Firewall: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...A=w727-h614-no New Firewall: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CM...=w1227-h920-no . |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Update - Seam Sealer
Finished the firewall. Got all the holes filled and everything painted back up. Re-patched the undercoating in the trans tunnel. Moved on to seam sealer today. I used eastwood high solids seam sealer inside the cab and their self leveling seam sealer in the drip rail. The high solids is really easy to use. I got the caulk gun stuff. I basically taped off all the seams and welds that I wanted to seal, put on rubber gloves, sprayed some paint-pre prep on the gloves and started smearing the sealer between the tape. That's really all there is to it. Now the self leveling seam sealer is another story. Mind you this is the first time I ever used this stuff, but it is really messy. I had trouble with it. I started on one side and simply walked to the other side of the truck spreading the stuff without stopping. In the horizontal drip rail it was really easy and did exactly what it was supposed to do. No prob there. The vertical rails were another story. Some guys on here said they used the self leveling and went halfway down and stopped and it barely made it to the bottom of rail. Well I dammed off the bottom with tape and I went 3/4 of the way and it overflowed the vertical rail dam and went everywhere.... Then I noticed it stayed to one side of the vertical rail and didn't fill the whole thing so I had to shoot more in there to make sure everything was covered... But. It worked out ok in the end. I pulled the dams and cut out the overflow excess and sanded it up a little and it looks pretty decent. I plan to spray the rest of my lizard skin ceramic coating on the floor of cab(the places where the dynomat got cut out, the firewall area under dash, and the rear cab wall and down in the cab corners. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sS...U=w561-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e5...A=w561-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_A...I=w561-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dc...0=w561-h748-no Here it is sanded down at bottom of drip rail. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hJ...k=w561-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MZ...k=w998-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_T...w=w998-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a3...M=w561-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I2...g=w561-h748-no :chevy: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Update - Body Filler Time :sumo:
Let me start by saying I have no idea what I am doing... I did some research and we will see how this turns out. My plan is to do very little work lol. I don't want to get into too much work here. Mainly because I am running out of time and I am not good at body work, and two because its going to be my DD so I figure I will take care of the bad spots and call it a day. If you remember I welded the roof seam so I started there because the panels were not great from the factory and after some metal grinding/massaging it still needed a lot of work. Then I moved on to the door sills and cab corners and gas filler. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Qx...g=w561-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cg...g=w998-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HE...Q=w998-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AY...I=w998-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PU...s=w998-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gH...0=w998-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H_...w=w998-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bi...Q=w561-h748-no :chevy: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Brown truck came today. I'm excited. :ww:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tr...U=w998-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Yb...c=w998-h748-no :chevy: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
When do you plan to spray? Maybe I could come and lend a hand/ learn a bit?
Brian |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Quote:
Hey sure thing, I will PM you when I finally get around to painting. Been working on my mustang lately and got it up for sale so it's been taking me away from the C10. We also just got offer accepted on some land down south of ft worth so been busy... But tonight I was back at it in garage spreading mud on the cab. My parents come in this weekend for a visit but hopefully I will get up early this weekend and do some more sanding and mud sanding and mud..... And if anyone knows someone interested in a supercharged 1989 Ford Mustang GT - just turned 100,000 miles original motor(with some mods) let me know! Here is recent photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/C2Sf81LA59PZrEA87 Here is the ad: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...8193234933874/ https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fq...=w1293-h970-no Don't kill me for posting this on a C10 forum...... :chevy: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Brown Truck - Big Delivery
:ww::thumbs::four: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Rv...E=w728-h970-no . |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Body Filler - Round 7
Been busy working on the mustang last few weeks. Sold the car though! Back on the truck this week. :chevy: I don't really know how many layers I have completed but it's somewhere around 7... All I know is I am not a big fan of this part of paint/body work... It's tedious and hard work. Probably more so because I have no skills so I am wasting product, energy, and time because of this :smoke: But I digress, because deep down I know even the newbie work I am doing right now will really help it the outcome of the paint. So I am excited to see paint go on soon. I have maybe one more layer of body filler to do in a couple spots and then I'm ready for filler primer and then paint. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z5...0=w561-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vi...k=w561-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jh...A=w561-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Eg...E=w561-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/F5...o=w998-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Fl...o=w998-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3W...Q=w998-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Fa...k=w561-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Pv...M=w561-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TZ...k=w561-h748-no The roof sanding really works your arms/shoulders. And the angles here for this panel would have been a lot easier had I bought those "soft" blocks as well. They bend/form better in tight/changing angles so I pretty much did all this by hand without blocks. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hC...w=w998-h748-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kX...A=w998-h748-no :chevy: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Looking good- bodywork is time consuming
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
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:chevy: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Keep it up! I know it is hard to stay motivated doing this stuff. I dream of final primer and color...LOL
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Update - Fender repair
Well I ran out of body filler, should have more in today. So this week I decided to look into fixing my fenders. They turned out to be a little worse off than I thought. The passenger side front end is shot. And of course, just like the cab, the PO really did what many other hackers do and slapped bondo in the rust and called it a day. So I will order a new corner for the fender. I noticed that so far I can only find the passenger side front fender front cap. They don't seem to make/sell the drivers side... I did manage to patch the drivers side front end. It came out decent. These will be getting sandblasted before I body fill and complete so don't mind the rust around the patch... Passenger side: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c...=w1293-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UH...=w1293-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kR...=w1293-h970-no Driver side: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1I...=w1293-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jJ...=w1293-h970-no When I get these back from sand blaster we will see how they hold up. Pics make em look worse than they really are but blast will probably reveal more... :chevy: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Best pic I could find right after I bought the truck. Check out the front fender cap. It looked really nice here. Bondo holding that sucker on right there lol...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Kx...=w1293-h970-no |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
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Very true but it sure is hard to swallow when it happens to you. Of course I don't know why I say this however because it's been the theme of this truck since I bought it, don't know how i'm not used to it by now.... Bed, fenders, and doors still need to be blasted still so probably more to come ;) :chevy: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
I thought I was done with the firewall. I really wasn't planning on mudding the whole thing but because of the new vintage air going in I patched up the big holes and used body filler to finish them off. Well now the drivers side has those huge dimples from the factory and they look ugly now that I see them in these photos... ARGGHHH, I am so done with this body filler crap....
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MY...=w1068-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VH...=w1068-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/w9...=w1068-h801-no :waah: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Firewall update - smoothed
Couldn't stand it, had to do the other side of firewall. Factory had these huge divots from the spot welds so I just simply filled in all those divots. It looks much better than it did. Not by any means perfect... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2N...=w1068-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v9...=w1068-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Dg...=w1068-h801-no I used self leveling seam sealer(what i had left over from the roof drip rail) and I was able to make it all the way from left to right, but it wasn't quite full enough so I let 4 hours pass to let it cure completely then used the solids seam sealer and topped it all off with that. Hopefully that is ok to do, not sure why it would be a problem. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ez...U=w601-h801-no I also used the solids seam sealer in the drip rails and filled in some of the little dips/divots. I also had a couple inches right above the drivers door that never really cured on top, it stayed sticky, so I topped that off and smoothed it out. It has all cured nicely now and feels great, and water won't sit in those little divots, this satisfies me. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HM...k=w601-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JL...A=w601-h801-no :chevy; |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Vintage Air Center Vent - Fixed the fitment
Ok, so I didn't like the fit of the vent, you can see that above pics. The top of the vent was a mile away, even after shaping the dash metal behind it best I could. So I did what they say you shouldn't do and piled up the body filler to fill in the enormous gap. Do you guys think this will crack? It's probably around 3/8 inch thick in places. :o First round: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q3...=w1292-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/es...=w1292-h970-no Round 2: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/j4...=w1292-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ni...=w1292-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vr...=w1292-h970-no Round 3: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_w...=w1292-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vy...=w1292-h970-no Round 4 and 5: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7a...=w1292-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mj...=w1292-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/b5...=w1292-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/R0...=w1292-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3k...=w1292-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I1...=w1292-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gk...=w1292-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lj...=w1292-h970-no Before Picture: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q5...=w1292-h970-no :chevy: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
This garage is a mess! Next day or two I will be cleaning this all up, taping off the cab, and will start laying down some high build primer, get this thing smoothed out a little, then reduce my epoxy primer and lay it down as sealer. Then shoot some color. Not sure how long this will take me but within the next 5-7 days this will be coming soon.
The Mess.... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f1...=w1292-h970-no :chevy: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Guys I realized all my pics were not showing in last couple of posts so I fixed those...
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Update - 2K High Build Urethane Primer
This stuff is awesome. It covers very well. But it makes a huge mess if your not in a pro booth... Water your floor..... I didn't and I will be sweeping dust for a year in my garage probably... Anyway, I'm about to go spray color in a minute so stay tuned for that later tonight. Here is some eye candy till I finish that. In these pics below, this is 18 hours after I sprayed the high build 2K. Not sanded yet. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SA...=w1292-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jl...=w1292-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XW...=w1292-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/de...8=w727-h969-no I'm really happy with how the cab corners came out :metal: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a4...4=w727-h969-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4w...=w1292-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4z...o=w727-h969-no :chevy: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Looks great man. Cant wait to see the pay off.:metal:
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Update - Hot Rod Flatz Metallic Gun Metal Gray
Guys, it looks awesome in person. These pictures don't do it justice. I am really impressed with the Devilbiss guns I got. They layed both epoxy and 2K high build primers, and the metallic single stage paint smooth as glass. I used a 1.5mm tip at 10psi for the SS HRF. It called for a 1.4mm tip but I only had a 1.3 and 1.5 and I found some info researching that a 1.5 is a good tip for SS and metallic paints. I moved quickly with the gun and kept a little extra further distance from surface. I also made several passes for each coat, not just one single pass at 50% overlap. This really helped lay the metallic down evenly and it worked great. They I waited the 15 minutes the spec sheet mentioned and put down a second coat the same way. I actually ran out of paint halfway through the second coat. It took me like 15 minutes to get more paint mixed and I finished up where I left off and it did just fine. Very impressed with this HRF paint. I taped off everything that shows when the truck is put together. I just painted the inside of cab and firewall. I'm pumped. I heard this paint is hard to lay down evenly but shoot, do you research and it will work out. Again, these pics don't do it justice. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fW...=w1030-h773-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z-...I=w580-h773-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oS...=w1030-h773-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hG...=w1030-h773-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/le...=w1030-h773-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SF...c=w580-h773-no :chevy: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Dude! Congratulations!! :metal: It really looks good to me. If it is better in person I'd say you nailed it. What all were you able to get painted tonight? I wish I was able to get over and learn a bit, since I'm a noob at painting. Maybe when you spray the bed I can make it.
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Quote:
Yeah I wish I would have seen your PM earlier. I could have used the help, it's a lot of work that has to be done in just the right order and having an extra hand would really make things easier and faster. I painted the inside of the cab and firewall only. Because it's metallic I have to assemble the whole truck and paint it all at once so each panel is uniform. So it will be a while before that happens. But when I do I will shoot you a message. :thumbs: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
What was the high build primer you used?
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
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I got gray epoxy and black high build 2k. Here are my part numbers: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9Y...0=w387-h773-no |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Man that's really starting to come together! Nice work! Looking forward to seeing more pics of that color
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Update - Gas Pedal - DBW
I'm ready to mount this cab finally on the frame, but first I need to finish a few things. 1. DBW pedal 2. lizard skin the inner firewall and floor 3. exhaust 4. install torque converter 5. install remote trans cooler 6. install rubber insulated clamps on brake lines and fuel lines 7. install remote battery tray I started with the DBW pedal. I found other members ideas and ended up doing something similar but had to do my own thing because I had different parts than they did. Member edgooch had a great idea rebuilding his DBW adjustable pedal so I did something similar, but my original pedal was different so I found a way to just utilize the LS pedal instead. I cut down the main base and the pedal itself. I shaved the pedal arm quite a bit too making it skinnier to fit my application. I think it turned out pretty decent. I then made my own bracket out of 20awg steel. I ended up reinforcing it with 2 extra strips of 20awg just to make sure it was strong enough to handle abuse. I really went fast on this bracket and it's not perfect but it should work. :smoke: 2005 GM adjustable style pedal I had: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JR...k=w400-h300-no Modified: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Nh...=w1068-h801-no Removed this junk: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q-...=w1068-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/r5...=w1068-h801-no The new hardware: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3l...=w1068-h801-no Assembled: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rv...=w1068-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0q...w=w601-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lg...=w1068-h801-no Pedal at normal position: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2d...=w1068-h801-no Pedal fully depressed: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CT...=w1068-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8i...=w1068-h801-no The bracket I made. I welded the nuts on the back side creating studs for the pedal. Drilled out the holes in base of pedal. I will be using nylock locking nuts to hold it in place. And I didn't buy hartrod's bracket, or made one identical because I already welded my original screw holes shut when I smoothed the firewall - OOPS!! https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C1...I=w601-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TT...=w1068-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/K1...=w1068-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YI...Q=w601-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XA...g=w601-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sl...k=w601-h801-no :chevy::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::chevy: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Great write up and resourcefulness. I hope to be at this stage sooner than later and I've been scratchin my head about what I'll need to do. Thanks.
More painting this weekend? |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Quote:
Yeah, tomorrow I am going to remove some of the dynomat that the PO installed incorrectly up on the firewall area, scuff, clean, lay down some rust converter then spray my leftover lizard skin on the inner firewall, floor, and maybe part of the back wall of cab and down in the cab corners. . |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Update - Lizard Skin Ceramic - Inside Cab
I love this stuff. It is so easy to shoot and really looks good when done. I bought 1 gallon of this stuff. I put 3 coats under cab and was able to get 4 more coats for inside the cab from high up on firewall all the way to high up on back of cab. I went ahead and coated over the top of the existing dynomat. Got the new DBW pedal installed too. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UM...=w1068-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vm...=w1068-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Qr...=w1068-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BK...A=w601-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ls...=w1068-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dp...=w1068-h801-no :metal::metal: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Update - Exhaust
Time for exhaust. I first cut out the cross member using a 4 inch hole saw. I saw LMC or BrotherTrucks makes a really nice kit that helps you template the cut. But instead of spending the money I just traced my 4" hole saw where I wanted the hole, cut a strip of sheet metal, and welded it in the middle. Then I measured the center of hole and drilled a pilot hole. Done. You will see in my pics I adjusted my center hole as needed. I didn't like where I traced the hole saw. Worked out pretty good. Then I started cutting up my old existing exhaust. I am going to use this exhaust as it still has lots of life left. There will be more on this later. I made it this far today. :smoke: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dx...s=w727-h969-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Dx...4=w727-h969-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/w2...Y=w727-h969-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AH...w=w727-h969-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d4...=w1292-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Df...A=w727-h969-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xP...U=w727-h969-no :chevy: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Nice job on that pedal mod. I cut off all the extra junk and mounted mine, but closer to the firewall. My plan is to bend up a custom rod, I've got custom trim brake and gas pedals on order and want to use them.
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Nice progress! Pedal looks good
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
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Thanks guys. I am really trying to get this truck done ASAP. So some of my projects aren't getting the attention I wished I could spend on them. And I fixed my pictures in the last post. Exhaust pics are working now. . |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Delivery coming today! I'm excited about this one.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cL...4=w889-h969-no :chevy: |
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