Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

It's looking great! I had thoughts of moving my engine cross member forward on the K20 I'm doing right now but I think I'll leave it alone.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

I actually thought of that also but did not want to mess with lengthening the driveshafts on this project. I am sure I will be doing something like that on the crew cab build since it will be the K20 version this spring. If I don't go with that then I will cut out the firewall indentation and add some metal to push it back further to accept the 8.1 Vortec motor I have for the crew cab build. It will take a little creative adjustment to get it the way I want it to fit.

The first item was to remove the driver's side wire loom rail I mounted because it was hitting the firewall. I cut 1.5 inches out of it and redrilled and attached it back together with Allen screws and nuts. When that wrapped up I went over the rust-free core support with some wet paper and Scotchbrite. Then shot a little primer where it was bare metal. Ready for paint in the morning.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

If you just move the engine ahead on the crew cab build, you will be fine. I have a couple of converted Longhorns I can show you pics of that have big blocks in for reference.

Nice work on the support. I just got my last rocker half done on my cab for my latest cheyenne super 72 K20 last night. Big fun. :lol:

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Ryan that would be great would love to see pictures of motor moved forward and the clearance. Thanks!

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Ok, keep in mind one is a beater. :lol:

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

While I was cleaning up the garage and getting things ready to spray for the core support and a few other items that need the black satin finish, I decided to try the Calyx dressing on the master cylinder. Took out the old toothbrush I used on the exhaust manifolds and dipped it into the little container of Calyx and went to town on it. Very happy with the outcome on the master cylinder and proportioning valve.

Also a few days back I was ordering up a few switches I need for the lights I will be installed on the truck here shortly and ran into these nice rocker switches that light up and will go into the custom switch panel I am making. There are also another two that go with them that provide USB outlets for the driver and one for the passenger. Had to get the Sasquatch light switch.

Spraying will begin on my lunch break from work today and hope to get a few more rounds done after work this evening. Still have a few items to go into the blaster cabinet so those items will follow over the weekend. As the items are painted and dried I will be bolting them on to make room for the next in line.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Wow, that MC turned out great! I need to get some of that stuff. Nice switches as well.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

X2, where did you find the switches?

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

I purchased them on Amazon.
Here is a link to the different switches.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H3S58C7...t_details&th=1

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Thank you.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Was able to get a little paint mixed up and sprayed this morning. Went with single-stage Hot Rod Flats from Summit Racing. Really happy with how the sheen came out for under the hood items. It matched really well with the Napa TEC Chassis Black that I used on the frame rails and axle. Used the medium temperature activator with it for 70-80 degree temps. The garage was set a 72 overnight to heat it up for painting.

Next up for painting will be the fender wells, battery tray, window washer holder, hood latch brace, radiator, and anything else that goes under the hood.

Order from JB Customs showed for the twin-stick install. I reached out to him before I ordered and sent several pictures of the current NP205 shifter boss location. I did this taking cue from Jimbosprints excellent build thread where he had to send the shift sticks back a few times to get the angle right. Hopefully, they will fit the first try, if not I will modify myself and get it going. Jon at JB Custom Fabrication was great to deal with, communicated daily, and sent out the order within a few days after ordering with the custom bent shift sticks. Again thanks to Jimbosprints excellent work and documenting his build thread - If you have not read his thread it is a great one. Here is a link to his build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=793642 .

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Got the core support painted and installed without any issues. After that took a few days to go down to Arizona to take care of some business and visit relatives. Back on getting items ready for paint to wrap up the front sheet metal. Sanded the passenger wheel well and have that one ready for etch primer and paint. The driver side was a little rougher so I striped it with my Eastwoods SCT contour sander I bought used off of Facebook Marketplace for a great price. Used the 80 grit wheel on it and that took it down pretty fast and with not so much effort.

After stripping the driver's side one down I found some cracks and thin metal toward the bottom left front so I decided to cut it out and replace it. Was a little 2.5 hour detour to make it strong again. Then I knocked down all the welds and added a little filler to smooth it out. Should be done with all front tin and miscellaneous parts by Tuesday and painted, hang it Wednesday afternoon.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Looking really nice! Most of all my inner fenders are pretty torn up by rust. Yours look mint. I might have to try that summit paint.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Thanks, if you are ever out this way in Idaho I will send you home with a good set of fender wells. I have about 8 sets stashed away that were given to me in a parts truck deal I made a couple of years ago. As far as the Summit Satin Black it does look very good and the price is right. I feel this will be my go-to paint for chassis and underhood items.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Just got through the entire thread. What amazing work! Cant wait to see more! :chevy:

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Update,to the top

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Here are few items that were done a few months ago that I never got around to posting. I had put the project on hold to help take care of an elderly parent that has since passed. The plan was to have this project wrapped up several months ago, but life happens.

I spoke about having a couple of custom K20 / Idaho Edition fender badges made. Well, I did have that done through a company on the internet. They did a great job per my design I provided from an Adobe Illustrator vector file. Where they lacked in the process was the communication was not so good. Anyways here are the badges that will go on the front fenders.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

I had also ordered a under dash "Old Air Products" AC kit for the truck. It does get hot here in Idaho and want to be able to enjoy the truck in the summer months and not worrying about the heat. My idea was to do a setup with under dash vents so that if I ever sell the truck the next person could remove AC and re-install the heater box and controls if they are trying to go original route.

So I have always wanted to use a spare glove box for gauges or whatever to mount to bottom of dash console but retain some of the dash designs.

Pict. 1
I grabbed one of the spare glove boxes I have from the stake and start to lay out a few items to see how it might fit or if I would need to shorten the length. I have the two center dash vents to mount on each end, the 3 AC controls switches and four switches for the lights i will be installing on the truck.

Pict. 2
Welded a piece of bar stock to top with an angle to get the display of the items to look right and also for mounting purposes. Then clamped it up there a few times to see if everything would fit properly and allow no issues with shifter. Also put a stock radio delete plate where the heater controls were removed.

Pict. 3
Doing the layout before cutting into the dash part

Pict. 4
Testing a few of the parts to make sure it all fits before prepping for paint

Pict. 5
After wet sanding and a few swipes of glaze the part is primed and ready for some Ochre paint

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Here are the AC block-off plates I went with from Ebay. I also purchased a nice little aluminum distribution block to make it all neat and tidy on firewall. Not sure if I will paint the block-offs or just leave it the way it is.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Sorry for your loss. The glovebox box door mod looks great.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Jim sorry u lost a parent that hurts ,i was thinking about your back ,this is brilliant i miss your posts

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Same here, condolences for the loss of your loved one.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

I have 9 days off over Thanksgiving and 17 days off over Christmas vacation. Time to wrap up this project so I can get on to the Crew Cab project I bought about a year ago. Here is a short list of what needs to get done so it can be out of the garage and back on the road. I will probably try to tackle the mechanical items left first so that I can pull it in and out of garage when needed for painting sessions. Here is a picture of how the garage and the project sits at 6:30 am this morning. Need to move a few items and get it turned sideways so I can jump in and get a few items checked off the list.

As I finish the items below, I will change each line item to match the heading color. I will pull the list forward in the rest of the post on this build thread for those who might be following.
Shooting for this to be on the road and driven on New Year's Day, so 45 days to wrap up list.


Mechanical Left
-Install new belts
-Install radiator and hoses
-Install new AC unit
-Make new battery cables and a few 2-gauge ground wires with same materials
-Install old exhaust so I can drive it to get new exhaust or buy builder kit and DIY it
-Drop of spare 205 transfer case to have rebuilt and twin sticks installed


Body Work Left
-Front fenders - wet sanded to 1500 need buffing or repaint
-Finish last 15% body work on hood: prime and paint
-Finish passenger door 25% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish driver's door 40% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish last 25% body work on bed: prime, paint and Raptor bedliner
-Body work cowl: prime and paint
-Paint both front fender wells
-Paint all four new shocks from lift kit to match body
-Body work used tailgate: prime and paint
-Install new grill and lights

Interior items
-Finish painting AC and light switch plate made from glove box, also paint radio delete plate for heater control area
-Install new seat cover
-Install new flooring and sill plates
-Install 3-point seat belts
-Install new gauge bezel, dash pad and other new goodies

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Sorry for your loss I love the fender badges

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Thanks Ol Blue K20.

Stay tuned Kenny more to come! I appreciate the support.

Thanks neighbor.

Thanks, I still need to treat them with some black paint. Never done it before so it will be a learning process.
__________________________________________________

Had a 45 minute break in the day from work so I finished moving items around and got the truck spun into position for some work to be done. Next up will be to get a parts table set up and everything laid out so I can see if there is anything I still need to finish. Print out my check-off list and tape it to the windshield, it always feels good when you start checking off the done items. If everything goes smooth should have it running again in the next day or so.

__________________________________________________

Mechanical Left
-Install new belts
-Install radiator and hoses
-Install new AC unit
-Make new battery cables and a few 2-gauge ground wires with same materials
-Install old exhaust so I can drive it to get new exhaust or buy builder kit and DIY it
-Drop of spare 205 transfer case to have rebuilt and twin sticks installed

Body Work Left
-Front fenders - wet sanded to 1500 need buffing or repaint
-Finish last 15% body work on hood: prime and paint
-Finish passenger door 25% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish driver's door 40% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish last 25% body work on bed: prime, paint and Raptor bedliner
-Body work cowl: prime and paint
-Paint both front fender wells
-Paint all four new shocks from lift kit to match body
-Body work used tailgate: prime and paint
-Install new grill and lights

Interior items
-Finish painting AC and light switch plate made from glove box, also paint radio delete plate for heater control area
-Install new seat cover
-Install new flooring and sill plates
-Install 3-point seat belts
-Install new gauge bezel, dash pad and other new goodies

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

This morning I thought it would be good to make an inventory of what I have and what I need to get the mechanical going.
I ordered a few items this morning like a few belts and a mini torque starter.

Started with separating the electrical harness and cleaning it up and figuring where I need to replace a few of the Packard 56 terminals.
Once I get through that I will re-wrap with new electrical tape and use some of the Duragloss 203 to dress up the electrical and keep it looking good.

Pict. 1 If anyone know where these might be sold I would love to get a couple of these.

Pict. 2/3 Just shows the harness and the state it is in right now before refurbishing. This is only one half of the under-hood harness.


__________________________________________________

Mechanical Left
-Install new belts
-Install radiator and hoses
-Install new AC unit
-Make new battery cables and a few 2-gauge ground wires with same materials
-Install old exhaust so I can drive it to get new exhaust or buy builder kit and DIY it
-Drop of spare 205 transfer case to have rebuilt and twin sticks installed
(WIP)-Cleanup and replace terminal ends on electrical harness and repair where needed

Body Work Left
-Front fenders - wet sanded to 1500 need buffing or repaint
-Finish last 15% body work on hood: prime and paint
-Finish passenger door 25% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish driver's door 40% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish last 25% body work on bed: prime, paint and Raptor bedliner
-Body work cowl: prime and paint
-Paint both front fender wells
-Paint all four new shocks from lift kit to match body
-Body work used tailgate: prime and paint
-Install new grill and lights

Interior items
-Finish painting AC and light switch plate made from glove box, also paint radio delete plate for heater control area
-Install new seat cover
-Install new flooring and sill plates
-Install 3-point seat belts
-Install new gauge bezel, dash pad and other new goodies

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Glad to see you back at this Jim! Sorry about your loss, I lost my mother this summer, it isn't easy, and a lot of work buttoning up her affairs.
About the emblem painting, I watched a thread about a guy who used syringes to flow paint onto lower parts of emblems, turned out really nice. Maybe google or you tube would have something about it.
Keep it up, Greg

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Early this morning I finished one section of the wiring harness that was started on yesterday and got through about half of the other. Lots of scrubbing with cleaner and a brush, replaced a couple of sections with some fresh matching wire and terminals left over from an American Autowire kit. Wrapped it up in some new heat sink cloth sheath like factory and the rest with 3M Super 33++ electrical tape.

Also found one of my deliveries from last night on the doorstep. A new high torque mini starter. I robbed the old for the 70 Teal K10 that I was getting ready to sale. Should be able to wrap up the rest of the electrical harness project today and get the starter installed so I can cross a couple items off.

_____________________________________________________________________

Mechanical Left
-Install new belts
-Install radiator and hoses
-Install new mini torque starter
-Install fuel pump and gas line to carb
-Install new AC unit
-Make new battery cables and a few 2-gauge ground wires with same materials
-Install old exhaust so I can drive it to get new exhaust or buy builder kit and DIY it
-Drop of spare 205 transfer case to have rebuilt and twin sticks installed
(WIP)-Cleanup and replace terminal ends on electrical harness and repair where needed

Body Work Left
-Front fenders - wet sanded to 1500 need buffing or repaint
-Finish last 15% body work on hood: prime and paint
-Finish passenger door 25% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish driver's door 40% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish last 25% body work on bed: prime, paint and Raptor bedliner
-Body work cowl: prime and paint
-Paint both front fender wells
-Paint all four new shocks from lift kit to match body
-Body work used tailgate: prime and paint
-Install new grill and lights

Interior items
-Finish painting AC and light switch plate made from glove box, also paint radio delete plate for heater control area
-Install new seat cover
-Install new flooring and sill plates
-Install 3-point seat belts
-Install new gauge bezel, dash pad and other new goodies

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

This morning I finished refurbishing the under-hood wiring harness. Had a few more terminal ends to replace then went over the entire harness with Duragloss 203. Got the fuel pump mounted and started on bending the new fuel line to the carburetor. Started to mount the alternator and noticed I still needed to spray some engine black on both brackets. I will give it a couple of coats today and get to it this afternoon. Next up will be the new starter install and getting the radiator ready to go back in.

Pict. 1 - table mess after refurbishing the wiring harness.

Pict. 2 - wire harness ready to go back on the truck

Pict. 3 - new fuel pump installed

Pict. 4 - brackets for the alternator, watching paint dry


_____________________________________________________________________

Mechanical Left
-Install new belts
-Install Alternator
-Install radiator and hoses
-Install new mini torque starter
-Install fuel pump and gas line to carb
-Install new AC unit
-Install wire harness
-Make new battery cables and a few 2-gauge ground wires with same materials
-Install old exhaust so I can drive it to get new exhaust or buy builder kit and DIY it
-Drop of spare 205 transfer case to have rebuilt and twin sticks installed
(WIP)-Cleanup and replace terminal ends on electrical harness and repair where needed

Body Work Left
-Front fenders - wet sanded to 1500 need buffing or repaint
-Finish last 15% body work on hood: prime and paint
-Finish passenger door 25% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish driver's door 40% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish last 25% body work on bed: prime, paint and Raptor bedliner
-Body work cowl: prime and paint
-Paint both front fender wells
-Paint all four new shocks from lift kit to match body
-Body work used tailgate: prime and paint
-Install new grill and lights

Interior items
-Finish painting AC and light switch plate made from glove box, also paint radio delete plate for heater control area
-Install new seat cover
-Install new flooring and sill plates
-Install 3-point seat belts
-Install new gauge bezel, dash pad and other new goodies

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Got a few items done today in between helping with yard cleanup and hanging lights for the holiday. Made two trips to the store to exchange the wrong fan belt size.
Painted the z-bar shifter linkage and AC brackets so I can get that mounted. Finally got the alternator installed this afternoon.
Will shoot for installing the AC bracket and compressor from the Old Air Products kit this evening.


_____________________________________________________________________

Mechanical Left
-Install new belts
-Install Alternator
-Install radiator and hoses
-Install new mini torque starter
-Install fuel pump and gas line to carb
-Install new AC unit
-Install wire harness
-Make new battery cables and a few 2-gauge ground wires with same materials
-Install old exhaust so I can drive it to get new exhaust or buy builder kit and DIY it
-Drop of spare 205 transfer case to have rebuilt and twin sticks installed
(WIP)-Cleanup and replace terminal ends on electrical harness and repair where needed

Body Work Left
-Front fenders - wet sanded to 1500 need buffing or repaint
-Finish last 15% body work on hood: prime and paint
-Finish passenger door 25% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish driver's door 40% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish last 25% body work on bed: prime, paint and Raptor bedliner
-Body work cowl: prime and paint
-Paint both front fender wells
-Paint all four new shocks from lift kit to match body
-Body work used tailgate: prime and paint
-Install new grill and lights

Interior items
-Finish painting AC and light switch plate made from glove box, also paint radio delete plate for heater control area
-Install new seat cover
-Install new flooring and sill plates
-Install 3-point seat belts
-Install new gauge bezel, dash pad and other new goodies

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Looks very nice

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Got the AC bracket and compressor mounted. Noticed after mounting that the coolant outlet on top of the manifold is not going to work like that.
Ordered up a 90-degree setup and hopefully, that will solve the issue.
Then started working on a mockup for the placement of the billet bulkhead for the AC and heater hoses.
Did not have the size of the metal hole saw I needed so off to the store to get a few items.

_____________________________________________________________________

Mechanical Left
-Install new belts
-Install Alternator
-Install radiator and hoses
-Install new mini torque starter
-Install fuel pump and gas line to carb
-Install new AC unit
-Install wire harness
-Make new battery cables and a few 2-gauge ground wires with same materials
-Install old exhaust so I can drive it to get new exhaust or buy builder kit and DIY it
-Drop of spare 205 transfer case to have rebuilt and twin sticks installed
(WIP)-Cleanup and replace terminal ends on electrical harness and repair where needed

Body Work Left
-Front fenders - wet sanded to 1500 need buffing or repaint
-Finish last 15% body work on hood: prime and paint
-Finish passenger door 25% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish driver's door 40% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish last 25% body work on bed: prime, paint and Raptor bedliner
-Body work cowl: prime and paint
-Paint both front fender wells
-Paint all four new shocks from lift kit to match body
-Body work used tailgate: prime and paint
-Install new grill and lights

Interior items
-Finish painting AC and light switch plate made from glove box, also paint radio delete plate for heater control area
-Install new seat cover
-Install new flooring and sill plates
-Install 3-point seat belts
-Install new gauge bezel, dash pad and other new goodies

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Took a step back on the AC install. Had the wrong evaporator unit for under the dash. Was never going to fit right. Got that all sorted out with tech support over at Old Air Products and have a new unit on its way. Got the electrical harness for under the hood stuffed into the new plastic sheath and mounted the terminal bulkhead to the firewall. Plugged in a few items on the harness, and made up the new positive and negative battery cables. Installed the starter, then did a test fit for the air cleaner to make sure it would clear the compressor for the AC.

Going to do a temporary install of the old radiator so I can get her fired up soon. Ordered a 3-row aluminum one off of Evilbay and really do not want that from stopping me from getting it running. I am guessing in the next day or so it should be ready to start up. Once I have it running then I can drive in and out of the garage so I can start painting parts that are ready.

_____________________________________________________________________

Mechanical Left
-Install new belts
-Install Alternator
-Install new mini torque starter
-Install fuel pump and gas line to carb
-Install new AC unit compressor and brackets
-Install wire harness
-Make new battery cables and a few 2-gauge ground wires with same materials
-Cleanup and replace terminal ends on electrical harness and repair where needed
-Install radiator and hoses
-Hook up all electrical under hood
-Install power steering pump
-Install Shocks after painting and steereing stabilizer
-Install old exhaust so I can drive it to get new exhaust or buy builder kit and DIY it
-Drop of spare 205 transfer case to have rebuilt and twin sticks installed

Body Work Left
-Front fenders - wet sanded to 1500 need buffing or repaint
-Finish last 15% body work on hood: prime and paint
-Finish passenger door 25% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish driver's door 40% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish last 25% body work on bed: prime, paint and Raptor bedliner
-Body work cowl: prime and paint
-Paint both front fender wells
-Paint all four new shocks from lift kit to match body
-Body work used tailgate: prime and paint
-Install new grill and lights

Interior items
-Finish painting AC and light switch plate made from glove box, also paint radio delete plate for heater control area
-Install new seat cover
-Install new flooring and sill plates
-Install 3-point seat belts
-Install new gauge bezel, dash pad and other new goodies

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Had to remove the AC compressor and bracket so I could remove the old heater outlet fitting from the manifold and install the new 90-degree outlet fitting so it would clear the compressor pump. After getting that installed and the AC compressor and bracket back on the motor, Amazon dropped off an AC belt that I ordered just in time for a test fitting. All is good with the belt size, which I believe was 53 7/8 inches.

Pulled out a few boxes of bagged hardware and bolts for the reassembly. Most of them had already been soaked in Evaporust and are ready to go. Some still needed soaking and I had a few items that still needed some sandblasting like the top radiator mounts and rubber pieces. Taped the engine harness crossing over the core support until I get some new screws to hold it in place. Also started to remove some of the items that were stored in the bed and get it ready to come off and go on the body cart for the finish of bodywork and paint.

Lots of small details left on engine prep before it can start.
-fabricate a new metal gas delivery tube from the fuel pump to the carburetor
-screw in the oil pressure fitting to the back of the motor
-hook up all electrical to the motor and new Pertronics distributor
-fasten down the hoses on the radiator and fill it with water for now since the new radiator is on its way
-hook up the old exhaust
-check all fluids and start it up

_____________________________________________________________________

Mechanical Left
-Install new belts
-Install Alternator
-Install new mini torque starter
-Install fuel pump and gas line to carb
-Install new AC unit compressor and brackets
-Install wire harness
-Make new battery cables and a few 2-gauge ground wires with same materials
-Cleanup and replace terminal ends on electrical harness and repair where needed

-Install radiator and hoses
-Fabricate metal fuel line up to carburetor
-Screw down oil pressure fitting in rear of motor
-Wire distributor and electric choke on carburetor
-Hook up all electrical under hood
-Install power steering pump with new hydraulic line
-Install Shocks after painting and steering stabilizer
-Install old exhaust so I can drive it to get new exhaust or buy builder kit and DIY it
-Drop of spare 205 transfer case to have rebuilt and twin sticks installed

Body Work Left
-Front fenders - wet sanded to 1500 need buffing or repaint
-Finish last 15% body work on hood: prime and paint
-Finish passenger door 25% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish driver's door 40% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish last 25% body work on bed: prime, paint and Raptor bedliner
-Body work cowl: prime and paint
-Paint both front fender wells
-Paint all four new shocks from lift kit to match body
-Body work used tailgate: prime and paint
-Install new grill and lights

Interior items
-Finish painting AC and light switch plate made from glove box, also paint radio delete plate for heater control area
-Install new seat cover
-Install new flooring and sill plates
-Install 3-point seat belts
-Install new gauge bezel, dash pad and other new goodies

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Getting close!

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Wrapped a few more items so this can be started again and move in and out of the garage. Again went backward on a few items taking off, adjusting, and re-installing. The new radiator finally showed up and got that mounted fairly easy. Noticed that it had provisions for the transmission cooler which I don't need so I used one of my screw and bolt tools to identify the size of the plug thread and pitch. Went ahead and mounted it with freshly sandblasted radiator hold-downs. Will need to pull them off when painting the inner fenders since they are all getting the same semi-gloss.

Last item before I try to fire this up will be mounting the old tired exhaust system I pulled off. Will need it on there to drive down to local muffler shop and get the new installed.

_____________________________________________________________________

Mechanical Left
-Install new belts
-Install Alternator
-Install new mini torque starter
-Install fuel pump and gas line to carb
-Install new AC unit compressor and brackets
-Install wire harness
-Make new battery cables and a few 2-gauge ground wires with same materials
-Cleanup and replace terminal ends on electrical harness and repair where needed
-Install radiator and hoses
-Fabricate metal fuel line up to carburetor
-Screw down oil pressure fitting in rear of motor
-Wire distributor and electric choke on carburetor
-Hook up all electrical under hood
-Install power steering pump with new hydraulic line
-Install Shocks after painting and steering stabilizer
-Install old exhaust so I can drive it to get new exhaust or buy builder kit and DIY it
-Drop of spare 205 transfer case to have rebuilt and twin sticks installed

Body Work Left
-Front fenders - wet sanded to 1500 need buffing or repaint
-Finish last 15% body work on hood: prime and paint
-Finish passenger door 25% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish driver's door 40% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish last 25% body work on bed: prime, paint and Raptor bedliner
-Body work cowl: prime and paint
-Paint both front fender wells
-Paint all four new shocks from lift kit to match body
-Body work used tailgate: prime and paint
-Install new grill and lights

Interior items
-Finish painting AC and light switch plate made from glove box, also paint radio delete plate for heater control area
-Install new seat cover
-Install new flooring and sill plates
-Install 3-point seat belts
-Install new gauge bezel, dash pad and other new goodies

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Keep at it jim u want it done for the spring

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Thanks Kenny! Shooting for driving on New Years day. Not sure if it is possible but will be working toward that goal.

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Found a local radiator and muffler shop run by a young military veteran. He spent the time explaining the different choices and what he thinks will work best for the truck. I told him over the phone that I needed to get the old system on the truck so I could drive it down there to get the new one installed. I explained that the new ram horn exhaust manifolds are larger 2.5 inches versus the old ones that were 2.0-inch outlets and that the old exhaust flanges will not work. He said to take some measurements and bring down what you can. He hooked me up with some temporary flanged pipe and flange fittings, donuts, and a few other goodies to get me back together for $20 dollars. The truck will have 2.5 piping from both sides of the motor collecting into the muffler and then 3" from the muffler out.

This is the mess I ended up with and it bolted right up again. I welded the new flanges to the old pipe from the inside. Then after looking at the larger side I noticed when I was done I forgot to slip on the flange for bolting it up. So I had to cut it in half again on the new stuff and slip the flange in and re-weld for the second time. Took about 45 minutes to do the fab work and about another 30 minutes to install under the truck.

Now I just need to run one new wire from the fuse box that is on during the start and run to the new Flamethrower coil to power up the Pertronics distributor. Install the z-bar for the 4-speed shifter linkage. Plug in two or three other items and I should be able to fire it off tomorrow. If that all goes well I will be painting over the weekend and bolting on parts.

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Mechanical Left
-Install new belts
-Install Alternator
-Install new mini torque starter
-Install fuel pump and gas line to carb
-Install new AC unit compressor and brackets
-Install wire harness
-Make new battery cables and a few 2-gauge ground wires with same materials
-Cleanup and replace terminal ends on electrical harness and repair where needed
-Install radiator and hoses
-Fabricate metal fuel line up to carburetor
-Screw down oil pressure fitting in rear of motor
-Wire distributor and electric choke on carburetor
-Install old exhaust so I can drive it to get new exhaust

-Hook up all electrical under hood
-Install power steering pump with new hydraulic line
-Install Shocks after painting and steering stabilizer
-Drop of spare 205 transfer case to have rebuilt and twin sticks installed

Body Work Left
-Front fenders - wet sanded to 1500 need buffing or repaint
-Finish last 15% body work on hood: prime and paint
-Finish passenger door 25% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish driver's door 40% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish last 25% body work on bed: prime, paint and Raptor bedliner
-Body work cowl: prime and paint
-Paint both front fender wells
-Paint all four new shocks from lift kit to match body
-Body work used tailgate: prime and paint
-Install new grill and lights

Interior items
-Finish painting AC and light switch plate made from glove box, also paint radio delete plate for heater control area
-Install new seat cover
-Install new flooring and sill plates
-Install 3-point seat belts
-Install new gauge bezel, dash pad and other new goodies

Re: 71 K20 Idaho Edition
 

Was able to get the truck fired up today. When I pulled the motor out of the truck so I could give the firewall the attention it needed I allowed Project Creep to step in and take over for a bit. Was just going to clean up the motor and put some fresh paint on it. Then I decided after seeing that the exhaust manifolds were both cracked in a few places I replaced them with new ones, then a new intake manifold, Edlebrock Carburetor, Valve covers, air cleaner, Pertronics distributor, flame thrower coil, spark plug wires, mini starter, fuel pump, water pump, pulleys, radiator, belts, hoses, and of course the new Old Air Products AC unit. So with a bunch of changes to the motor, it is always a process to get it fired up again. With a little bit of timing adjustment and some carb tuning it will be ready to have the check mark put next to it on the list.

So now I will need to take some time on Monday to move a few items in the garage and get geared up for the painting to start happening. Right now I have a medium box of small brackets and a few other items that need satin black as well as the inner fenders. After the satin black is wrapped up I have two doors, custom AC and light switch panel, hood, bed, and cowl that need the 511 Ochre paint. I also bought some new 8-lug metal rims that are gray right now so I will need those to be sprayed in white also.

A few of the items above are ready to go and some will need some work to wrap them up before they can be painted. Excited to be on the downside of the project and so far I feel like I might be able to make my goal to be driving it all back together by New Years Day.