Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

Yeah you can carefully bend the return line to put it in a better spot or you can use a reservoir from any other Saginaw pump you like.
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

there was definately some "mild" firewall action on mine. in general comparison mine is farther back and lower than most. that suburban i think you are talking about is a pretty clean rig, but the guy driving it is cranky. he keeps calling me names and stuff... hahaha

im glad you are going for the manual fan. definately the right choice for your state. i just wish we were all so luck as the guy with the suburban and could have that fancy horton clutch for the fan. i used the dodge radiator and that saved me a little forward room as it is a little thinner and i pushed it back into the support a little more than the stock 4 row. looking forward to what the guys do for the I/C as well.

i am curious about the other side of the engine as well. it looks like the ac compressor was gone but i cant tell. any plans for that? i *may have no current use for my water inlet bracket, but i havent decided yet. i can get you the PN if you need it. mosesburb used the same one as well

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

Ryan,
We're looking into the AC situation right now. With where the motor's mounted, and the AC unit currently on the top left of the engine, it looks like there is a worry about the hood being able to clear the top.

I did note on that really intelligent suburban guy's build that he mounted his on the water inlet, leveraging some Kenworth and Sterling components. I've also seen the following site (http://www.cumminsdieselrepowers.com..._Brackets.html) which may provide an alternative solution. If I go with the second solution, I could potentially use the AC compressor that came with my Vintage Air system.

Not sure which direction we're going yet, still working through the details.

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

Now, what to do with this...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Q...o/IMG_0372.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C...o/IMG_0373.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-P...o/IMG_0377.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0...o/IMG_0380.JPG

I'm thinking that I'll be putting something on Craig's list or in the WTS section (if not both)

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

So, I went ahead and put my left-overs up on the Parts Board

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

Ok guys, have a small problem. I'm having issues with the clearance between the intake manifold and the master cylinder. Looking for options to see if this is something that may be able to come off the shelf, or if this is going to need to be a fabricated component.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3...no/Intake.jpeg

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

Have the sly guy in Co cut you out a flange and have your guys fab one. The fabbed one will fit your needs and flow more air also.

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

Also, if the frame is an issue for your PS lines, have him trim the upper rail. That's what I did on mine. On the vacuum pump, I'd just reseal it and eliminate the vanes and run it. There are some other options out there, but not real cost friendly. Your engine looks really good sitting in there. If you need bracketry also keep in mind Auto World. They have a few different options. www.autoworldmt.com

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

Thanks, the frame/PS issue was resolved with minor tweaking on the inlet lines. I did end up going with Auto World for the AC bracket. This also gave me the ability to reuse my compressor from the Vintage Air set-up instead of having to patch the Dodge into the Vintage system (although, I don't think that would have been an issue.)

And, ya, the thought had crossed my mind about that SW CO feller's ability to cut quality parts with a water jet... figure he's busy at work right now, or he probably would have provided me his e-mail so I could PayPal him the funds to get-er-done...

My wife got down to the shop on Monday, dropped off the parts for the HB/PS and all the hoses. She was able to snap a couple of pictures to send me since I'm traveling up in Cali this week, so hopefully I'll be able to find some time to load them up. It's progressing, and from the looks of it, the motor mounts and the tranny mount are all done, so I'm hoping to visit this weekend to get some specific shots.

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

Certainly let me know if you need something!

im not fast, but i do mess up frequently...

:lol:

Ryan

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

Buy or make one of these.
http://www.puredieselpower.com/catal...keHorn(sm).jpg
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Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

How about something like this? might get you the room you need?

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

dagnabbit.... now someone provides a picture of the part that I need to have that I didn't even think I needed two weeks ago..... DARN YOU....


....where'd my wallet go???

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

Finally back home in AZ.... got to my e-mail, and found a new picture from the fabricator... Not sure if he's proposing that I lift the truck, or if it's a progress picture of the D60 going under the truck. The engine's been pulled back out, and it looks like he's got the engine and tranny mounts done. I'm hoping that I'll be able to get down to see it tomorrow or Saturday.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_...o/wheelie.jpeg

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

Forgot to tell you that i dropped the flange in the mail the other day. provided i slathered enough stamps on the envelope, they should see it soon.

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

Scott, are you staying leaf springs in the front? It looks that way in the pics any how. I'm sure there's been more great progress as quickly as this is going.

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

You could use a 1st gen intake hat or a 99 up intake hat.
If your making custom intercooler tubes it would be easier.

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

Well, I was able to get to the shop today to drop off a part and take a couple of pictures. They're all snapped with my cell phone, so they're not that great, but you'll get the idea.

Transmission Mount:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9...o/IMG_0459.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-T...o/IMG_0460.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2...o/IMG_0465.JPG

Cross-Over Steering:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5...o/IMG_0461.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2...o/IMG_0464.JPG

Motor Mount/Cross Brace (not really good pictures.):
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-G...o/IMG_0462.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J...o/IMG_0463.JPG

And, the hydroboost bracket from CaptnFab:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a...o/IMG_0466.jpg

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

Scott, it's looking really nice! That is a bad azz transmission cross member!

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

I was really impressed when I looked under the vehicle. Randy doesn't skimp on quality.

I also found out that the truck should be done by early next week. He'll have everything in place, and the new drive lines cut to fit the new configuration. Getting it back, I'll have to finish putting all of the plumbing and electrical in place... still trying to figure out the details on getting everything back to my house so I can continue the work.

In trying to figure out the electrical, and I ran across an article that states:

The fuel shutoff solenoid has three wires, white, black, red.

• Black goes to ground
• Red goes to a key-on power source
• White goes to the small terminal on the starter solenoid.

Add a couple of battery cables, positive to the big terminal on the starter, negative to the block.

On the back of your alternator, there are two small posts with wires connected to them, and one large post. The large post goes straight to the positive battery post. One of the small posts gets grounded to the case of the alternator, and the other one gets connected to the "field" terminal of a external voltage regulator. I like to use old Ford regulators. They have four connectors in them labeled I A S F. The I is useless, and doesn't get connected to anything. A terminal gets connected to the positive post of the battery. S terminal gets connected to key on power. The F terminal gets connected to one of the small posts on the alternator. It doesn't matter which one gets grounded and which one gets field from the regulator, it will work either way.

I remember seeing a post here a long time ago that talked about bypassing the external regulator if you have an internally regulated alternator, so I'm going to try and find that again, and also figure out if the Dodge's alternator is internally or externally regulated... (Update, I found the article here...)

I'm not sure what will be left to complete, but I figure that I'll have a little bit of time to work through the vehicle to come up with a punch list at some time.

And, since I can't walk out to my truck right now, I'm just scratching my head trying to figure out everything that I'll still need to do. As Randy and I discussed, it's a matter of him turning things over to me that I'm capable of doing, and not paying $60/hr. for him to do on my behalf.

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

Nevermind I need to learn to read all the post before replying..

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

I think we've all succumb to that once or twice... no worries. :lol:

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

Scott, your stock Dodge alt is controlled by the truck's ECM. So if you're not using the dodge ECM, you'll need an external regulator.

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

Ya, a late night scouring the interweb led me down that road. Read a couple of posts on other boards where they were moving to an external regulator instead of purchasing a new ECM due to the price.

Re: Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.
 

I found this post a while back, forget where but it might be of some help.
I save it for some reason lol

In the flat 2 wire gm plug one wire will turn on and off with the ign, use this wire to go to the top pin on the dodge regulator, ( the reg has pins in a triangle) hook another wire to this wire on the top pin and run it to either field pin/bolt on the dodge alt. run another wire from the lower right pin on the reg to the other field pin/bolt on the alt. run a ground wire from the reg mount bolt to the alt housing, run the #10 batt wire that went to the alt out put stud on the gm alt, to the dodge out put stud, done! if the alt does not charge, the wire from the gm plug runs thrugh a light bulb in the dash and will not have enough current to power the dodge reg. in that case, run a wire that is switched on and off with the ign (like the wire that runs the IP)to the top pin on the reg and on to the field pin/ bolt on the alt,(some dodge alts have 2 little bolts for the field and some have a small plug with 2 pins for the field circuit) it does not matter witch gets the power from the top pin on the reg, or witch goes to the lower right pin on the reg. hope this helps.

Also check out this thread

http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...ad.php?t=58251