Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

I used a explorer rear but its too narrow. It will require deep dish wheels or 2 inch spacers on each end. I used 2 inch spacers that convert the bolt pattern back to 5x5.

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

no such thing as too narrow...:metal:

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

Yeah it's 2 inches narrower, but it's an off center pumpkin so you would have had to take 2 15/16 off the long end to center it up.

That's what I do to fit them in car swaps. Other option would be drilling the plug on the short side, and putting 2 long tubes and it would be 2" longer than the 12 bolt

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

Pic above is the 8.8 versus 12 bolt length. Its almost 4 inches less in width.



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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

Did you center the pumpkin or is the 12 bolt not a centered pumpkin either? Hard to tell in pics.

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

Its offset 2 1/4 inches i believe. I had to cut open the rear crossmember a bit since the driveshaft would hit it with the offset pumpkin

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

Thanks I have yet to measure my 12 bolt, but the factory 96-00 explorer rear ends are offset 2 15/16 to the passenger side. I was just curious if the 12 bolt it similarly offset from the factory. Otherwise the long tube on the 8.8 needs to be cut down 2 15/16 and use the short axle shaft on both sides. Or vice versa if you want it to be longer. -only required if you need to center the pumpkin depending on the vehicle it's going into.

Did you weld on new u bolt perches to it?

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

Yep I welded new perches on. It would be best to put long axles on best sides.
Ol blue was cast in a college film. Its in the first minute of the vid.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w18xDj9ACU4
Its all in fun so pls know all actors are volunteers.

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

finally getting started on my lq4 swap....got DD mounts otw....did you have any issues with cab clearances? now im being told to not go the DD 73+ mount way lol

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

I ended up buying !@# mounts.

I couldn't imagine spending $240 on motor mounts as I usually make my own, but these are beautiful, and heavy duty!!!

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

With DD M mounts everything fit in my 78 including the driveshaft, just had to move the rear X member

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

forgot to mention i have a 69. with the added extra inch from using the 73+ stuff and a 4l80 trans i was told id have cab issues.....

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

I installed dirty dingo adjustable plates on 2001 5.3 motor .I had to remove the AC compressor to be able to bolt plate up to the motor. Is there something I can do do be able to bolt AC bracket and compressor back on same location and keep the adjustable motor mount plates? I'm getting ready to install on 1968 chevy truck and I really want to keep the 5.3 original AC compressor. Any help will be appreciated.

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

I am actually having problems with DD mounts, I measured the engine angle to be 7 degrees pointing downward.if I lift the transmission to get 3 degrees, pointing downward, it will hit the cab. By the way I am using the same clamshell rubber mounts vannatta but using a 1980 front crossmember, could that be why and is 7 degrees too much?

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

Are you using the factory high hump trans cover?

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

It's the low hump but I will also need a new rear cross member. When I lift the transmission to the -3 degrees the drive shaft will hit the rear cross memeber. Is there away to lower the engine instead? Thanks

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

Did u have to notch the frame to run the AC lines?

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

I did not need to notch the frame for the ac line . I used factory 5.3 ac lines. I had one line cut and welded to get a better angle.

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

Ok, tell me I'm not losing my mind, your sig says you live in Vegas, but I would swear I just saw this truck northbound on 291 in Independence about a half hour ago? I was going the other way and the nearest place to turn around was 1/4 mile away, so I couldn't just turn around....

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

It's in vegas still. I'm actually in your area by sedalia but I left my truck back home.

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

Sorry but what and where did you get your billet insert for the guages? You posted saying they sent you the wrong one.

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

http://www.classicparts.com/1969-72-...tinfo/24-194B/

Its actually a overlay. I thought is was the entire panel. Still worked.

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

did you guys use stock ls oil pan

Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
 

Yes I used a stock truck oil pan with all truck accessory's. It will hang down below the crossmember about an 1-2 inches. No issues since my truck only has been lowered 3 inches.

I did a bunch of changes of this last month. Sold the 6.0 and got a L33 5.3 engine for cheap (all aluminum block).. Had the heads milled .036 for high 10's compression. Installed a free lq9 cam. My 4l60e went bad and had that rebuilt. I also custom made a complete engine harness from scratch since I now build and sell them. I kept the DBW setup but re wired it to work with a 90mm LS2 throttle body. Im hoping to get decent economy out of this setup. Hoping for high teens in the gas mileage with 300hp to the wheels. I also installed headers finally.

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