Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

more with the new Rear Disc Brakes and then onto a full roller!!!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Full Roller now... still some work to do, but it it movable now!!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

few with Ruler to see how low it is.
Currently there is 0 air in bags and it is on the rubber snubs front and rear

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Happy w/it?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

so far, yes i am

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

It's lookin good. Glad you're happy.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

thank you sir, for all your help to date!! I really appreciate it

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Glad to partake 🤓👍

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Now its onto brake lines, air lines and fuel lines, routing and securing to frame or ....
I have the fuel line - PTFE with all -6an fittings, all air lines which i can only do so much with until the cab is mounted because the lines go into the cab to the gauges. The air tank and pump will be mounted in the bed. My issue is where to get brake lines.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Looking good Jeff!

Appreciate your time on Thursday, will keep you updated.

P. :D

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Sounds good Paul, thank you

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, so interesting thing happened. I was looking at where to position the pan hard bar to center the truck, making sure to set it close to "Ride Height" and i noticed a few things. The axle will move from one side to the other side by a good amount. From approx. 1/2 of travel with rear the axle will move 1 to 1.5" to one side when all the way down and then when fully extended 1 to 1.5" the the other way from a neutral position. I found that very interesting. I knew it moved, just never really seen it but with no air in bags the travel is easy and noticeable. With all that said, i have good shocks that allow for alot of travel, enough that i am concerned with the load it puts on the bags when frame is lifted and the rear is allowed to be free floating. It puts what i would call too much "Pull" on them. So, i am looking at installing some kind of rearend travel limiting straps. My big issue is i do not want to weld tabs onto the frame of the axle as they are all powder coated. So i am looking for ideas. Anyone?
Thanks for the time.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

A bolt-on anchor/tab somewhere where there are already holes in the frame is what I would look @ using. That being said, once the PHB is set @ ride height, it shouldn't be an issue. It's not like you'd be driving with it all the way down & then suddenly all the way up.

You'll get a feel for your ride height pressures & will be able to adjust height w/fairly 'obvious' adjustment limits.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I appreciate the comment and idea. As you said i will not have it up in the air much ever, but just in case i do need to check tires, rearend, and so on i want to be careful with the bags. So i got 11" axle straps and bolt on axle brackets from Speedway Motors that are made for leaf spring mounting, so they have a flat surface to mount one side of the Limiting straps and then i will make a plate to mount to the brace that the upper shock mounts bolt to to hold the other end of the strap. Seems like it is just one thing after another... lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, now i have a question for the exhaust. I am looking at doing a kit myself. There are several to pick from, 2.5" or 3", mild steel or stainless steel. I am wondering what everyone else has done? A Shop will be about $600.00 to build and install.
I have long tube headers, I want the exhaust to exit just before the rear tires on each side with flat type exhaust tips (kinda like NASCAR), i do own a miller Tig machine, now it has been a while since i used a tig welder, but i am not scared to go again at it.
Costs for mild to Stainless is crazy! So, with all that said, suggestions? Size, type...
Thanks.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

What size are the headers (primary & collector)?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Very good question. i apologize, i should know this. So i have a set of Stans Tri-
Y headers that were for my 69 C10. Not sure they will fit, but also i am not concerned about having to use them or buy a different set, shorties, ceramic coated, ..... I should look into this first.
Suggestions?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, so i believe i found a set of long tubes that are ceramic coated. They have 1.5" primary's and 3" Collector.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Excellent detail, nice work. I like the Hurst shifter (funny, sometimes it's the little things that catch the eye), a real classic touch

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

You want the most out of the motor? You need the headers sized accordingly (within reason). A 383 w/any decent cam & heads can move some air. 1.5" primary tubes will work but a 1 5/8 primary is better suited.

Beyond that, 2.5" true duals w/a H-pipe or X- crossover would be a decent set-up. Summit has a aluminized universal kit as well as a SS version.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

This comes to mind

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-89027

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Build is looking better and better Jeff :bo2:

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thanks, i bought the M-20 as it was advertised as an M-22. I of course did my inspection and explained to the seller that it is actually a later model M-20. He was selling it with not 1 but 2 aluminium bell housings and a real solid sifter and at the price, it was all good. So i rebuild not just the tranny but also the entire shifter.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thanks Captainfab, it is in the wishlist for summit. I have no knowledge of what thrush exhaust sounds like honestly. I am a big fan of good ole Flowmasters. but sometimes change is good.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you sir!! i appreciate it!