1969-1972 Chevy/GMC Factory Steering Wheel Restoration
Alright well I wanted to be sure and document my entire process on restoring my personal steering wheel in my truck in all I probably have far too many pictures within the week and a half doing this little hobby of mine I'd have to say I logged around 18 hours or so into filling, sanding, primering, sanding, painting, sanding dirt out of it and finally painting once more. I don't really want to call it done but for right now I am going to enjoy it and see how well it lasts before completely refinishing the wheel. So here goes my 72 blue to black original wheel restoration process.
1. I started by finding a reasonable wheel on eBay and had it shipped to me from TX. It was decent but had very major cracks more so then I had hoped but I was into it about 27$ total already so why not see it through http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...d/NewType5.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...NewType559.jpg 2. I ordered the Master Steering wheel repair kit from Eastwood's online store 55$ ( http://www.eastwood.com/master-steer...tructions.html )because I had to get the damn California special version because of these silly little tree huggers over here any who received this within a week contains the PC-7 two can mix 1:1 ratio that bonds and fills the cracks seen in the first/third picture featured in this thread. http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...NewType572.jpg |
Re: 1969-1972 Chevy/GMC Factory Steering Wheel Restoration
3: Got after mixing the solution together mind you I have some back ground as my father has shown me all his life and I've been able to watch him do wonders on some really nice cars including my own as far as bodywork/paint goes. ( Brownie points for when he reads my thread right here ) Also invested into a triangular file to get into those cracks first to get a clean surface for the mix to adhere to, I found the pointed end useful for digging the "trench" around the face of the wheel as mine was somewhat missing.
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...NewType569.jpg [IMG]http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...NewType570.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...NewType577.jpg[/IMG] 4. I would definitely advise AGAINST slabbing a ton on in one spot or else you'll create ALOT of unnecessary time sanding for yourself. Go light the first pass and do some rough sanding with 60-80 Grit and see where that puts you then finish it off with a second coat once the first round has been thoroughly checked. Mix in some 120-180 to find those fine-line cracks as you can see in the picture above. [IMG]http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...NewType563.jpg[/IMG] http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...NewType573.jpg 5. Finally you can see some progress slap a coat of the pre-prep can (step 3's picture) on there to help the adhesive and be sure to follow the drying directions as exactly as said to ensure the best possible surface for your paint to adhere to and then lay down some thin primer ( I used primer grey Rustoleum spray-able paint ) for your first coat come back the next day by very lightly sanding with a scotch brite course or fine pad (red or grey) then lay a more solid coat down and let that sit for the night or afternoon and check it after a few hours to see how it's handling the surface. (the preperation for paint stages are EXTREMELY CRUCIAL as my dad has always said you can lay down the best of product over anything but if it's prepared carelessly it will look exactly how it was prepared.. sloppy) http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...NewType582.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...NewType584.jpg |
Re: 1969-1972 Chevy/GMC Factory Steering Wheel Restoration
6. As you can see in the latest pictures I have popped in a spray can top into the central hub area to prevent paint from reaching and covering the metal contact ring within and it worked very well as I had not one ounce of paint within the area. Now you can start sanding with 240-300+ range grit depending on how smooth your wheel has come so far it all depends on the starting condition and your time invested in the beginning to get to this point. I found the scotch pads very helpful to smooth out the surface as well as zero steel wool all useful in this process.
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_0615.jpg 7. Finally some color and first round of wetsanding with 600 grit sandpaper and strictly steel wool or grey scotch brite to keep the surface as clean as possibly and prevent costly surface wear thru points like on the ribbing on the backside. Yes sanding will start to wear on you as you get further into the process of the restoration but don't quit now you're almost there just a few more hours and a finished product will appear in front of your eyes. http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_0616.jpg 8. Lay down your first layer of color, I went with Satin Black Rustoleum spray-able paint this round since it was in stock in pile and matched well with my interior. I would suggest to go as light of coverage as possible almost like two guide coats of paint to go over the primer. You can always go back over once its dry and re-sanded to create build-up and durability. I went through quite a few coats here to build up to what I felt as a durable wheel. http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_0639.jpg |
Re: 1969-1972 Chevy/GMC Factory Steering Wheel Restoration
More...More...More...
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Re: 1969-1972 Chevy/GMC Factory Steering Wheel Restoration
9. Last paint sanding stage grab the finest of sanding material to create the slickest finish as possible be sure to keep water going over it as best as possible and try not to burn any holes its too costly at this stage to recreate the whole process over. Once you're completely happen and feel it has the best you can put into it move to the final step.
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_0655.jpg 10. Lay down your final coats evenly and as light as possible this is your final chance so be sure to keep a light finger and keep moving so you wont create any wet-spots that will need to be re-sanded afterwards. do as many as you feel is necessary until you are happy with the finished product. be sure to keep the wheel away from the devilish outdoors as I had a dust storm ruin my finish paint within a minute of spraying and had to re-sand for another day. now let it soak up some heat and also cool for next day or so, so that it can adhere to its best ability, and finally enjoy to the fullest as I do with mine. I felt recreating an original wheel such as this on my truck would not only enhance my skill but show more pride and self-satisfaction into something I restored with my own bare-hands instead of just buying and the best thing I get to use it everyday and see it everyday as I drive my truck can't get rid of those smiles so have fun with it don't make it a chore. Thank you for looking in and I hope even one line from all of this was just somewhat helpful in your venture. I used Truck Shop of Orange CA,'s Horn Cap Retainer Kit PN #69-06502 to assemble the OEM cap I had in stock to the wheel to finish it off looks wise. [IMG]http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_0674.jpg[/IMG] http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_0691.jpg |
Re: 1969-1972 Chevy/GMC Factory Steering Wheel Restoration
Not to be a downer but I used the same exact stuff to fix a wheel that was in better shape and as soon as the weather changed (temps) I got a hairline crack at most of the repairs. :devil:
These 69-72 type wheels seem to be the worst to fix! Just a heads up. It certainly won't look as bad as it did when you got it but I'd expect some hairline cracks eventually. (sorry) :( |
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Nice job on the wheel looks good.
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Nice work - thanks for sharing!
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Thank you for sharing. You did a great job on that wheel. You have changed my mind. I have a very nice blue steering wheel, but recently got a satin black tilt column so it looks very funny with it. I was just going to hunt down a black wheel, then sell mine, but I think after reading your thread I will try my hand at painting it. Thanks again!
Shawn Posted via Mobile Device |
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Please everyone feel free to add in with your own experience either refurbishing an old wheel with this product or perhaps another way of going about it. Also please share your own progress so that future wheel restorations have some background to go off of. Every bit counts :metal: Posted via Mobile Device |
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nice work!! I have been looking around for a product that well act the same as the original meterial on the wheel. i tried useing jb weld putty, i got a few of the cracks filled then left it for about a month and it cracked.
but great job! and thanks for the info! - Andrew |
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Well it's lasted me a couple months now and I've become irritable with a few issues it has at this point. The hardener didn't seal correctly ontop of the hub portion and it cracked through the paint and it had a lot of other minor cracks throughout the wheel itself so I've decide to completely re-do it.
I've already begun sanding and even replaced hub areas filler so that its drying and ready for me to sand tonight. Think I may need to stay thick this time so that it won't crack through. Other areas were fine but it may have had a bad base to start with. It does get gummy when in the heat and I'm looking for a paint that won't re-produce that same effect. Something along the lines of SEM paint since that's what most interiors get I.e. door panels. So is there any feedback there? Or should I get the body work done and get it professionally sprayed?? Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: 1969-1972 Chevy/GMC Factory Steering Wheel Restoration
Nice Job on the wheel restoration. I am also doing a 67/68 restoration and bought the same eastwood kit you have. I think any product needs a lot of time to cure before another product is applied over the top of it. What I mean is that if you are getting cracks, it may be because the epoxy has not had enough cure time before the primer is applied. I am not sure if this is true with epoxy but it is with plastic filler (bondo).
It is also worth noting that the original cracks need to be completely removed or the chance of a crack coming back is increased. With all of that said, I think you may want to wait a while longer between steps and give the epoxy time to completly cure. The thicker it is, the longer it will take. Good luck and I will be watching this to see how you do. |
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probably should use an automotive paint with a hardener in it....maybe
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Thank you Tbone I'm going to not rush it this time and take my slow pace and be thorough it should be easier since I know what it's capable of looking like now.
Will definitely look into gettin it primed and painted by either my dad or a good friend of ours. Posted via Mobile Device |
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I should have pictures up tonight of the process restarting this project of mine. Stay tuned :)
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This is the best way to do it. I've seen some just use bondo and call that a restoration. You can imagine how that will (I should say won't) hold up. You can buy PC-7 for a lot less than that Eastwood kit and it's probably exactly what they are giving you. Eastwood basically sells re-labled products you can buy elsewhere for less. I have wondered about using material from another wheel to "weld" the cracks,then epoxy,then bondo if necessary. The issue here is separation. I've been successful at welding like plastics with a soldering gun before. One jib was a water tank in the camper on my old '71. The plastic back then was parafin-based and no adhesive will work. I cut about 1/4" off the neck,and used that the weld the crack where the neck went into the tank (all molded in one piece). The hand pump has to be able to pressurize the tank to work...and it did,for many years after.
Edit: Oops! I see Eastwood does give you PC-7. But you can still get all that cheaper elsewhere |
Re: 1969-1972 Chevy/GMC Factory Steering Wheel Restoration
Definitely interested in all this. I'm going to do a 68 wheel. The material in the later 69 and up wheels seems different. Any input on this? Great job by the way Newtype72
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The 69-72 wheels are a different material than earlier wheels. 67/68s are the same as years prior and in '73 they changed material again. I believe 69-72s are a type of vinyl.
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Yeah,epoxy.
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Pictures of the re-re-sanding process coming tonight |
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I would definitely use an automotive paint with a hardener in it....That is what I used on my wheel and it has held up well....The black wheels did not seem to crack as bad....I had found a nice black wheel and painted it to match my interior.....Good luck hope it turns out great.....:metal:
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Alright I've been slacking but have been working so here goes I'll try to keep it relative as possible as I did with my descriptions from the beginning.
1. I was upset with the lack of prevention from paint crack as seen on the hub and roughness from the sanding on the spokes of the wheel and most definitely the backside so I started with just some general purpose 60 Grit Sand paper which went fast but did it's job in exactly 4 sheets which seems like a lot but with all the nooks and crannies it isn't too bad. here's a couple shots of the roughing. I've got about 22 hours into it at this point of the re-process of the wheel with the stripping of the coats of paint. http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_1618.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ofIMG_1619.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ofIMG_1620.jpg |
Re: 1969-1972 Chevy/GMC Factory Steering Wheel Restoration
2. Moving onto the past couple night I now have around 26 hours or so with the finishing of the 60 grit on the backside in the valley's of the grip, (( WHAT A PITA THOSE ARE I'll be honest )) now I got ready for the 180. I know big jump and it really showed as I was out of 120 and the vinyl/plastic really clogged the finer paper but I did start pulling a nice smooth finish out of it compared to the deep ruts from before. I also am showing a previous step as I removed the barely visible grain texture this time. I felt it wasn't doing much for the wheel if it wasn't all the way around like it should be. I want to look into recreating it on another wheel in the future possible and make this one a sleeker "sporty" design compared the the higher end grain style's kind of like Deluxe/custom vs. Cheyenne Super. Anyway laid down a couple hours of smoothing nixing the grips this time as I wanted to lay more epoxy later to see if I could solve some popping issues in the paint. Then comes the epoxy you can see I put down some tape to rebuild the "body line" on the top of the hub. I'll show more tomorrow as it has to set and then be sanded to show the more dominant lines on top. That's all for tonight as I'm starting to feel the hours of a day job and no rest over the holiday weekend set in. Stay tuned :mm::ito:
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_1702.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_1703.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_1706.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_1704.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_1715.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_1721.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_1726.jpg |
Re: 1969-1972 Chevy/GMC Factory Steering Wheel Restoration
Hey guys I know I've been slacking with updates but right now it's our local towns biggest car show month of the season so I've been battling some truck issues to get her rolling smoother. Anyway I'm hoping to have a write up and pictures by Saturday morning for everyone. First coat is on and doesn't look to bad so a possible second coat before the weekend but we shall see. Thank you :ito:
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I'll be watching. I think you'll have it right this time. Can't wait to see. Oh,I meant to tell you. I have a perfect steering wheel I would have given you if you paid the postage.
Sorry,JUST KIDDING!! (but you already knew that...right?) |
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:lol: yeah I knew it was too good to be true. But shoot I might make a side hobby outta this someday.
Anyway yesterday i went ahead and attacked the wheel with 400 grit to smooth out the imperfections I missed before the primer so now it's nice and smooth. I don't believe I got a picture of it in this stage tho unfortunately. Just imagine flat black with a little blue here and there from the thin primer. It's off with my father now to get its second stage of primer on and I may have one more round after if its not smooth enough then. But it should be fairly decent after this next coat. Getting excited it looks so much better this time around. Posted via Mobile Device |
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Thread bump --
I know this is an old and dormant thread, but Photobucket is killing me! Is there any way to get these pictures back into the tread? I'm about to try this very thing and would love some visual aid :-) Thanks! |
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