$250 1964 c-10
 

I'm new to this site... I just bought a '64 c10 long bed for $250.. gotta 283/4speed.. 116k.. california truck with no rust.. drove it home and now disasembling it and stripping 4 coats of paint off the panels.. trying to decide whether to go back to stock or custom..don't have a huge buget.. any thoughts? thanks-Paul

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

!!!

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

just build what you want, that way if you end up stuck with it, you like what you have!

my favorite are moderately lowered, but otherwise basic stock....
....well some of my favorites are that:lol:

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

Lots of pinstriping!!!

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

Well you got a great deal to start on a truck so you are already ahead on the budget side of building a truck.
:welcome2:

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on what sounds like a great deal. Hard to find any 60-66 that doesn't need rust repairs. Restoring it to driver quality stock is generally the least expensive approach. It you repair and preserve now, you can always do more modifications later on as the budget allows. Be careful not to disassemble too much at once, try to do small portions or projects that can be completed over a weekend. It becomes more difficult to maintain enthusiasm for a pile of parts that originally started out as a running truck.

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

Welcome aboard from Kansas City, KS. Very nice score.

Well-spoken Markeb01...I encourage everyone doing one of these for the first time, to keep it simple, thus manageable.

Post some pictures when you can...we want to see! Welcome aboard and enjoy the ride.

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

WELCOME from southern oregon...great deal!! think BEFORE you ACT don't act BEFORE you THINK!! there are lot's of options and ideas out there.TAKE YOUR TIME!!!,and don't loose focus! and ...SEND PICTURES!!! good luck!...

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

THANKS Y'ALL... WHERE WOULD BE A GOOD PLACE DO GET A SCHEMATIC FOR THE BED? i GOT THE BED DISASSEMBLED... THANKS AGAIN!!

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

GMCPauls has all the bedwood dimensions on his site. and LMC has a rough schematic of the bed. Um, as stated before, Sloooww down! And get your digital camera out. You would be able to put the bed back together had you taken proper photos during disassembly. Have fun. This is supposed to be a hobby. :)

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

..and going along with sirs post, make a plan before you buy stuff, you don't want to spend all the money to fix up the 283, and then later decide you want a 350.. or restore the front drum brakes, and then decide ou want 5 lug disc... that is where people get behind in a project, and lose alot of money.

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

Welcome NebulisNotion, and have fun with it, I think you`ll find that there are a lot locals in here. we have been meeting up at Mikes diner in Elk Grove on Tuesday, and Burger Junction on Sat....

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

hey welcome to the board. hope to see some pics

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

MAN!! :wop:

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

hey... thanks all for the welcome...I'm 41 and turned a few wrenches.. let's just say that I prefer standard sockets as opposed to metrics.. here's the deal.. i got a 64' C-10 with no rust for $250... the bed was already disassembled when I bought it..it was the project of an old timer, and my thinking is that no old timer would waste his time building a tired truck.. His son was moving and had to get it out of the yard... How do I post pictures on here? thanks.. Paul

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

....

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

Excellent score. Give this a try: www.mar-k.com

They have excellent tech support and illustration for the bed.

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

Welcome to the board. Nice project. Agree with the other's advice. Gather some info, formulate a plan and go for it. Alot of great info and good people on this site.

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

wow, solid truck & great deal!...cool wheels too....good luck with the build

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

Looks good. I want some stock hub caps for my 66.

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

Looks good!! Nice find

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

okay... got everything stripped to bare metal and I'm ready to prime and paint..removed windshield..rear glass/etc... I was wondering if anyone had any good tips on installing the windshield and rear window (small). I ordered a new gasket (non-chrome) and have heard that the original windshield is thicker than aftermarket, and that the new gasket may present a "tight" fit issue on with the old glass. How about an installation in the warm sun (to make gasket more pliable)? Any tips would help...also with rear glass as well...Thanks!

P.S. Any opinions for cherry bombs on a very red, close to stock truck??

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

P.S. Any opinions for cherry bombs on a very red, close to stock truck??[/QUOTE]

yah, run short (like 8") ones close to the engine with dual exhaust it sounds awesome!! if you like it loud that is!

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

Yeah stop by good to see another local :metal:

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

sure will... what time do you guys meet up down there?

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

If you are re-using your original windshield, the gasket will fit perfectly although it may be difficult to install being new. The warm sun idea should help. The problem is with the cheap foreign windshields that are considerably thinner than OEM. The channel in the gasket is too big (actually the glass is too thin) and requires a lot of sealer to fill the gap. Also be cautious about the "blended" windshields with the blue stripe across the top. Many of the cheap brands have this, and the band is so tall it covers 1/3 or more of the upper windshield surface. Installed, the driver is looking through the blended section when driving.

If you need a new windshield, my experience is that a Pilkington windshield is a perfect fit, original thickness and has no waterfall distortion. But you'll probably need to shop for it by brand name.

As for glass installation, the flat 64-66 windshield is relatively simple.

. Fit the gasket on the glass with the vulcanized seam and the bottom center.
. Using something close to 1/8" diameter string or rope, feed it into the pinch weld cavity on the gasket with the ends at the top center. Leave about 6" or so on each end and tape them to the upper center inside surface of the windshield.
. Lubricate the gasket. Many recommend KY Jelly, or dish soap.
. Rest the bottom of the glass/gasket assembly on the lower pinch weld flange. While one person gently but firmly presses on the outside of the glass, pull the lip of the gasket over the pinch weld by pulling on the string until the gasket is seated all the way around.
. Fully seat the glass by gently slapping the outside surface with the open palm of your hand. Make sure you are not wearing any rings!

The back window is even easier, especially if you invest in one of the tools to install the locking bead.

http://www.classicparts.com/1947-197...ctinfo/01-405/

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

Okay, thank you very much! I totally understand the technique. Have another question, though; do I use a sealer on the glass or the pinchweld (i.e. on the gasket or glass/pinchweld should i apply a sealer, or does the gasket seal the glass alone?) It is the original windshield. Also wanted to clarify that I should apply lube to the pinchweld seam after string is wrapped around the gasket inside the pinchweld seam. Thanks again!

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

First a correction. I must have been asleep, the ends of the cord need to be at the bottom center of the glass, not the top, since the bottom middle will be seated first.

On the lubrication question, I've changed quite a few windshields, and generally apply it to the gasket first since it will also soak into the string/rope and hold quite a bit. If generous enough it drips all over the pinchweld anyway. You can always add more during the install if needed.

When I lived in Idaho the windshield on my 1960 needed to be replaced three times. One shop used sealer in the glass channel, and that windshield leaked (a lot). The other two went in without any sealer and never leaked a drop. Not sure if it's the luck of the draw, how well the glass and gasket fit, or how well the labor got the windshield centered and completely seated.

The factory shop manual (for 1960) apparently loved sealer and states:

3. Apply a 3/16" x 1/2" ribbon of medium bodied sealer at the base of the pinchweld flange around the entire perimeter of the opening.

6. Seal the outside lip of the rubber channel to the glass with a minimum strip of 1/32 thickness weatherstrip adhesive between glass and lip around perimeter of glass.

7. Apply a 1/8" x 1/4" ribbon of medium bodied sealer to the flat of the windshield opening rabbel along the entire length of the pillar side and extending for approximately 6 inches beyond the upper and lower corners. (Again this is for a 1960).

8. Remove all excess sealer and adhesive with mineral spirits.

Since I've had better luck with no sealer, I'd be inclined to not use any.

It's difficult to know which advice is good and what isn't unless you can see the results of their work (even if you're doing the install yourself). The outfit that installed my leaky windshield also scratched my fender extensions, hood, and vent panel. The only reason I went with them was because they were billed as street rod specialists, the owner drove a 34 Ford, and claimed my truck would be treated like one of their own!

Re: $250 1964 c-10
 

okay...thanks! i'm leaning toward no sealer..given the use of lube..I'll post my results...