Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
A recent thread about leaky steering boxes prompted me to take some photos and do a little tech article here. Some folks were replacing their power steering boxes because of leaks rather than fix the leaks. I prefer to fix a leaky box because 1) Its drastically cheaper, and 2) the existing box is likely as good or better than a parts store replacement.
The whole process is very straightforward and intuitive. Few special tools are needed and the entire process can be done in an hour or so and for a cost of 15 dollars. For this article, I pulled a steering box out of my parts pile. This setup is off of an 87 model R10 that I parted out a few years ago. The power steering worked well, but it did leak. The process is the same for all of this style of box. Parts from a Rockauto. This is the pitman shaft seal kit and the stub shaft seal kit. Both were right at 15 dollars delivered, shipping included. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...d173f9a31a.jpg The victim http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...76e581c6b8.jpg http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...762997ee07.jpg First step is to clean and degrease the box. I used spray degreaser and a Harbor Freight "toothbrush" type of nylon brush. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...23d5b91fac.jpg This is one special tool you'll need, a pitman arm puller. Don't cry over it though. I bought mine years ago for cheap but you can get one from the parts' store tool loan program too. You're gonna have to have one whether you reseal your box or replace it anyway. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...0e20094589.jpg Remove large nut and washer that retain the pitman arm. A big adjustable wrench works fine. It's not going to be too horribly tight. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...9ce5ede546.jpg Now, use the puller and remove the pitman arm. They come off pretty easy with a little bump from an impact wrench. Once you get the pitman arm removed, take a wire brush and clean the shaft and cavity where the seal is. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...7e785df079.jpg Now, make sure the steering box is centered and flip it over and remove these four bolts. They are 9/16" head. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...41a025892b.jpg Then, gently whack the output shaft with a mallet to drive it upward. Remove. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...2f415a066a.jpg http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...0815e4bb91.jpg Now, lay the box on its side and clean the seal area with a little screwdriver. The purpose of laying it on its side is to keep any contaminates from falling down the hole and into the steering box. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...fed80adf22.jpg http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...9e25494bc9.jpg Use snap ring pliers to remove the retaining ring and then remove the parts and lay them in order. They will go....snap ring, flat washer, thick seal, washer, thin seal. In that order. A bent tip screwdriver will pull them out. Worst case, turn the box over and use a long skinny screwdriver to tap them out from the top. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...4dc8336ed4.jpg Again, to reiterate, it goes....snap ring, washer, thick seal, washer, thin seal. Lay out new parts next to old to match them up. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...d03c8e8fd2.jpg Clean out the bore in the steering box and install new parts in correct order. Use a socket of the appropriate size with a mallet as a driver. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...6885956ada.jpg Now, lube the seals with a smear of grease and drop the top of the box back in place. You might have to fiddle with it to get the parts to drop in. Its intuitive and you will see what needs to happen. Wiggle, wiggle, tap, tap and it will drop in. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...effe5845e9.jpg Reinstall and tighten the four bolts. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...240f22c9af.jpg More to come in the next post.... |
Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
Now, we're gonna change the input shaft seal. This is usually the one that really leaks on old boxes.
Look closely and you can see the cracks in the old rubber. Clean well with a wire brush before you go any further. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...f2dfe59abd.jpg http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...874137b70b.jpg You need a blunt punch and a small hammer. Use these to loosen the locknut. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...b1f2277b81.jpg http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...a44eaab310.jpg Next, remove the gland assembly. Notice there are two holes in the face of it. I used a face pin spanner, but have also done this many, many times using a small punch and hammer to gently unscrew the thing. Just tap it counterclockwise to unscrew it. As you're doing this, gently hold pressure down on the shaft so it doesn't pull up out of the box as you remove the gland assembly. Again, hold slight pressure to keep the center shaft from rising up as the outer housing is screwed up and off. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...e8907548e4.jpg http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...62b21d3e5a.jpg http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...7bcaedd5f9.jpg Leave this in place. We are only messing with the cartidge that we unscrewed and removed. Go no deeper. You can pull that shaft out, but you don't want to. Don't turn the shaft or fiddle with it. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...852c674802.jpg Here is the old dried seal that is the culprit on a majority of leaky steering boxes. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...6d1e0eb194.jpg Remove snap ring and remove the dust seal and the main seal. They come right out or you can flip the cartridge over and tap them out with a skinny screwdriver. Parts laid out in order. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...0b36f9c334.jpg Tap new seal and dust seal into place with a socket and install new snap ring. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...de4233a373.jpg Also, change the outer O ring. A new one is included. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...c48953f7cb.jpg Smear grease on the inner seals and the outer O ring and screw the cartridge back into the steering box. Screw it into place until it bottoms out. You'll feel it. It screws down nice and smooth, then all of the sudden, stops. Don't reef down on it, stop there. Now, measure 1/2" and back off the adjuster that amount. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...8ae6fac336.jpg Let's review that part, its important. Screw the cartridge down until it bottoms snugly. Don't force it, its real obvious when it bottoms out. Then, make a mark of some kind as reference and loosen it half an inch (.5 inch). Then, reinstall locknut, making sure you don't move the adjustment while you're tightening it down. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...2fcae5e90f.jpg |
Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
So, that's it. You've fixed your leaking pitman shaft seal and input shaft seal.
You spent about 15 bucks for the two seal kits. And, you did some interesting mechanic work. Don't be distracted by my tools I used. You can easily use a punch and small hammer to screw/unscrew instead of a pin spanner. I'm just a tool whore and spend way too much time in the SnapOn catalogs geeking out on specialty tools. If you wanted to buy your own pin spanner, Williams tools, SnapOn's industrial division sells them. Mine was 25 dollars delivered off eBay. Snap ring pliers are also easy to get. You might spend 15 bucks for a pair of top of the line ones off eBay. A pitman arm puller is 30-40 bucks from any parts store. You need one whether you reseal your box or swap in a rebuilt box anyway. Look at it this way, you could buy all of the specialty tools from SnapOn or whatever premium tool company you prefer, and still come out cheaper than buying a parts store steering box. And you're left with bad ass tools to keep forever. And you learned something. |
Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
Excellent writeup, thanks. As with most things on these trucks, once you dive in they really aren't that difficult. But is sure is nice to have a guided tour.
I may have to do this before I button up my 79 crossmember swap with the 79 steering gearbox. Sure easier to do now than later when it is all mounted and then find out it leaks. |
Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
Great info, I am only days away from having to this. Thanks
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Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
Thanks so much for the info you've presented Kevin. I've got an 81 parts truck and was going to use the ps box as a core for a rebuilt box when I convert my 66 to ps. I had no idea the were of such low quality.
I'll just throw new seals in it and reuse my "core" in my 66. It's info and members like you how make this forum the best on the net !!! Thanks again Kevin. |
Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
Good write up TX.
And as Tx said, don't even think about turning or twisting the steering shaft after removing the lock nut and adjusting nut -even if tempted (ask me why). I did my first gearbox couple of years ago and the biggest problem other than turning the shaft mentioned above, was yanking out the old pressed in seals. Another problem I had was losing a couple of ball bearings and couldn't locate anyone that sells them. So if you go all the way (or move the shaft mentioned above) be careful. |
Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
Thank you so much! I have a leaky power steering box that drives me batty, and can't afford a new one right now! Ill definitely be trying this! Thanks again for the write up, it was very clear and well-written.
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Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
Something I wanted to add fellas. Y'all make sure and catalog your own part numbers for the seal kits. The input shaft was different size depending on which year of box you have. I'm sure they take correspondingly different sized seals too. My numbers for the 87 box might be different than say, a 78 model box would take. The procedures are the same though.
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Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
Great writeup, thanks!
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Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
Yup, totally would have done this recently instead of a junkyard box. Oh well, glad I inspiried you to write this, thank you!
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Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
Great write up and just in time for me, my box is leaking and I was going to replace it while rebuilding my front end but now I'm going to try and repair it.
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Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
Kevin,
Thank you very much for these pics and directions! I just recently added p/strg. to my 65' and, thanks to your write-up, was able to re-seal the salvage yard box I used. Thanks again!! |
Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
I'm very glad this article is helping you fellas. I'm planning to post an entire series of them as I do various jobs around the shop. Next up I'm planning on doing a reseal your power steering pump article.
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Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
great step by step. im not mechanically inclined but your write up makes me willing to tackle this
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Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
My 77 box is making a popping sound when you turn the wheel, I've adjusted the gears before and guessing they are shot. Do they make replacement gears or complete rebuild kits?
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Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
Again, a great write up Tex but one question :confused:. You mention making sure the pitman shaft is lined up, how do you do this or know when it aligned and what are you lining it up to to make sure everything goes back the same way, I must be missing something. Thanks for your help.
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Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
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If so, the pitman shaft has gigantic teeth on it. Something like three of them. You just make sure that when you drop it into place, the center of the three teeth lines up with the center of the other teeth inside of the box. Sounds complicated, but I personally guarantee you will see what I mean when you do yours. |
Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
I think he meant how do you make sure your steering box is centered before you take the pitman shaft out.
I wish i would of went this route because i purchased a rebuilt steering box for my truck a few months back and it was a complete waste of money. Now instead of having a truck with a leaky box i have a truck that doesn't want to return to center and tends to stay stuck in the direction your turning. I tried to get it replaced but i guess i scratched off the green paint marking they put on the box when i installed it so they wont take it back now. |
Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
To center the box, just turn the steering wheel all the way to one side, then all the way to the other side, counting the turns. Then turn it back half way.
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Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
Sure,
Just slip the coupler back down onto the input shaft (to act as a knob) and spin the box lock to lock. Then turn back to the center from there. |
Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
I really wish this board still had a reputation system. Tx Firefighter you make some of the best posts on this site. Thank you for your hard work!
I've been debating whether to rebuild to replace my box... leaks a bit but the bigger concern is there is quite a bit of play in it. |
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Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
:no: Okay, I "tried" to replace my input seals last night... all did not go well!
Actually almost nothing went right. To make a long miserable story short, the worm gear ended up coming out! URGHHH!!! So, is it a definite that I'll now have to tear this thing apart? do the balls EVER stay where they should be, or am I SOL? the unit is still attached to the pitman arm and I'd love to keep it that way. I did put it back together and it did seem to turn the wheels by turning the input shaft, but maybe that doesn't mean a thing. There is fluid in the housing. I had it un-attached from the frame, but like I said, still connected to the pitman arm. If it is a guarantee that the balls fell out when I unscrewed the worm gear out of the housing, is there a way to put them back in without rebuilding, or would they be lost down inside it somewhere? Thanks in advance! |
Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
Brian, I don't know the answer to your questions. I haven't ever gone that deeply into a box and successfully gotten it back together. My whole life I've either resealed the leaks or swapped boxes completely.
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Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
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Thanks again for all your insight and great write ups that you do! |
Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
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Ok, I must have done something horribly wrong. I went to put the shaft back in and the tall center tooth doesn't look like it is close to fitting. It must be a quarter inch taller than the slot. I even removed all the seals thinking the seals might not be sitting right and it did not help at all.
I tried to take a picture. It shows the center tooth and the dark triangle in the back is the tall slot in the gear. Does anyone know where I went wrong? |
Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
Reach down inside of the box and pull the teeth towards or away from you. They can roll on the shaft and cause what you're describing. If you use your finger, you'll find the teeth will wiggle around.
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Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
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Ok, so last night I was hitting the teeth with a punch and a hammer and they wouldn't move at all. I read your post when I got up this morning, walked out to the garage, touched the teeth with my finger and they rolled out of the way. Then the shaft fell right into place. So, I don't know what that was about, but thanks for the post, must have had some magic in it or something. |
Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
speed reading through the posts i seem to remember one complaint about not returning to center. the sector adjustment is critical. under no circumstances should it be adjusted by "feel". if adjusted too tight it will resist returning to center and the customer complaint is typically described as "loose steering".
i could go over the procedure if anyone is interested. 2. if you lose the balls there is a special tool required. you could make one if you had a lathe. there are also 2 different ball sizes and they must be alternated when installing. one is black and the other silver. sometimes it's hard to distinguish oily and used so i normally just replace them 3. there is a trick to replacing the pitman seals while on the vehicle. remove the pitman arm, snap rings then, after placing a drain pan underneath, start the engine and turn the steering wheel (rt or lt) to the stop and the seals will remove themselves. |
Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
Thanks for taking the time to document and share this Kevin. I am going to use it for my reference soon.
One question, do you know if the gear ratio for a 76 gear box is the same as the 87 you rebuilt? I have a 72 and a 76. I plan on replacing the 72 with the 76 because of the better gear ratio. I wondered if the later ones in the 80s are better yet? |
Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
this might be an obvious is obvious dumb question, please forgive me im a newb to this steering box/gear stuff. Ok is it possible to change the input shaft seals with the steering box still in the truck?
jason |
Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
adjuster plug seal and yes it can be done in situ
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Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
Very informative, Kevin do you have any ideas if we don't know what year /application our steering box is from? Know of any resources for shaft dimensions or any other identifiers?
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Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
Kevin,
I just read thru this thread. Great job ! I love reading about basic stuff like this and you have tons of pics, too. My truck's gear box isn't leaking but I'm planning on rebuilding the manual gearbox on my Vette soon and I came across your thread while searching for rebuild info. Take care, Jim |
Re: Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box
TXfirefighter: do you have a thread on re-sealing the pump? I've searched but nothing came up. Your steering gear thread is excellent.
I was preparing to remove the box and tear into it, but after a trip to the car wash to clean the whole system I could see it was coming from above instead. I would suggest that first step to all, BTW. I would also note that, if at some time in your truck's life, on the return line, someone has either (A) used too large of a worm drive hose clamp, or (B) re-used the full-circumference factory clamps beyond their service life; either one might seem tight at the screw, but loose around the hose. Back to the job at hand (fixing the leaking pump)--it seems intuitive. I just don't want to overlook anything. Mine has the remote reservoir, so that reduces the places to leak. |
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