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-   -   vent window woes (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=660294)

highwinger 02-15-2015 01:09 PM

vent window woes
 
5 Attachment(s)
So, I finally got all the pieces needed to replace the vent window weather stripping...which took three attempts after watching the videos: 1) got the rubber (Brothers P/N VWW0072 which I expect is Precision), 2) noticed the repair kit is needed for the rivets & tools (rivet & plastic w/s tool) (from LMC). 3) noticed the window channel felt needed replacing, or at least it's a convenient time to replace (45min drive to Ecklers).

I had a hard time getting the assy out. Another thread showed the proper angle (vent perpendicular & inward), but none of the videos or pics included the window belts (horizontal felt/rubber). Unfortunately, I cracked my window & scratched the tint & paint before pulling up the belts enough to pass the bracket...but it finally came out. Removing the rivets & the rubber went as expected.

The troubles started on the install. It appears some rubber has to be cut to install correctly; namely, around the pivot bracket pic#1 (not the spring which did need a flashing removed too). I think some trimming was needed at the junction between the two rubber pieces #2. I couldn't find any reference to needing this, but the rubber wouldn't seat properly until trimmed. Anyone else need this?

The real problem came in testing the tension on the vent window. I have to work the rubber around the window in the forward angle #3 and move the upper part of the window forward #4 to get the window to close. I think the rubber is still in the channel, but it doesn't really act that way. After installing back in the burb, I did have to reseat some rubber in the channel. Any way o fix?

Another question I have where the rubber goes on the outside. My other window has it inside the door, but that seems wrong. Why wouldn't the rubber sit on top of the door to keep (or limit) water & air from entering between the door & vent. I tried both ways & the rubber doesn't seat well to the door either. Actually, its sits weird when the rubber is reseated forward of the tension pivot point. It sits flatter when the rubber isn't in the channel. Can someone verify the rubber is supposed to go on top?

highwinger 02-15-2015 01:11 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
#6 is with rubber tucked in like driver window

highwinger 02-15-2015 01:12 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
1 Attachment(s)
try attachment again

highwinger 02-15-2015 01:16 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
I still fix my window travel too. It doesn't go up & down as smooth as it used to. They are power windows. The crack has gotten bigger since yesterday, so I'm afraid it may progress quickly as I use & drive it. I may need to get a pro to replace the driver gasket & two windows since they are now both cracked. I really wanted to do this myself. :waah:

Any advice?

highwinger 02-15-2015 01:51 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
Oh & mucho kudos to the others that posted the details & videos. I couldn't have made it this far without them. Great forum :metal: :chevy:

LockDoc 02-16-2015 11:54 AM

Re: vent window woes
 
-
I Don't have time to reply today but I will see what I can do tonight.

LockDoc

LockDoc 02-16-2015 09:32 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by highwinger (Post 7049521)
So, I finally got all the pieces needed to replace the vent window weather stripping...which took three attempts after watching the videos: 1) got the rubber (Brothers P/N VWW0072 which I expect is Precision), 2) noticed the repair kit is needed for the rivets & tools (rivet & plastic w/s tool) (from LMC). 3) noticed the window channel felt needed replacing, or at least it's a convenient time to replace (45min drive to Ecklers).

I had a hard time getting the assy out. Another thread showed the proper angle (vent perpendicular & inward), but none of the videos or pics included the window belts (horizontal felt/rubber). Unfortunately, I cracked my window & scratched the tint & paint before pulling up the belts enough to pass the bracket...but it finally came out. Removing the rivets & the rubber went as expected.

The troubles started on the install. It appears some rubber has to be cut to install correctly; namely, around the pivot bracket pic#1 (not the spring which did need a flashing removed too). I think some trimming was needed at the junction between the two rubber pieces #2. I couldn't find any reference to needing this, but the rubber wouldn't seat properly until trimmed. Anyone else need this?

The real problem came in testing the tension on the vent window. I have to work the rubber around the window in the forward angle #3 and move the upper part of the window forward #4 to get the window to close. I think the rubber is still in the channel, but it doesn't really act that way. After installing back in the burb, I did have to reseat some rubber in the channel. Any way o fix?

Another question I have where the rubber goes on the outside. My other window has it inside the door, but that seems wrong. Why wouldn't the rubber sit on top of the door to keep (or limit) water & air from entering between the door & vent. I tried both ways & the rubber doesn't seat well to the door either. Actually, its sits weird when the rubber is reseated forward of the tension pivot point. It sits flatter when the rubber isn't in the channel. Can someone verify the rubber is supposed to go on top?


OK, I will give this a try. It has been a while since I did mine and I am a two fingered typer with CRS, so bear with me.

I always completely remove the inner and outer window sweeps any time I remove the windows or wing vents. You will most likely mess them up when you remove them and will have to install new ones. Any time you need new ones don't use anything but these....

http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...ts/cr1103.html

http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...ts/cr1073.html

The only difference in the two sets is one is stainless and one is chrome plated stainless...

There may be other vendors on here that sell the same brand (I hope they post up if they do) but I think the manufacturer is pretty selective who they let distribute the product.

These are the best window felts/sweeps I have found. Made in the USA by Clark Industries, Pearcy, AR and go by the "Repops" brand. (Picture below)

First, I don't remember having to trim anything on mine. When you put them back together you have to make sure that the rubber is all the way down in the channel of the vent frame. I had to push mine down in with a dull putty knife and a wide blade screwdriver while using some soapy water. If the rubber is not seated in the channel it will hold the vent window too far back and that is what makes your door window roll up hard. The rubber goes down inside the door frame, not on top.

When you install the new door glass fuzzy in the long vent window channel make sure you nave all of the old fuzzy peeled out and scraped down good. You can leave the stainless trim on the top edges.

If you have everything installed correctly and seated good the vent window will be a little tight when you close it but you shouldn't have to use a lot of force on it.

Let me know if I missed anything....

LockDoc

highwinger 02-17-2015 09:30 AM

Re: vent window woes
 
Thanks Doc for the detailed response. I will recall the links when I'm ready to replace the door glass. Have you used Classic Industry's door glass too?

I'm really surprised the rubber tucks in the door. I found the plastic stick used for windshield installation real good at working the rubber since its blunt and stiff so it doesn't harm the rubber.

wrt the vertical channel, mine had been replaced before, so I didn't have to cut it out like in the video. However, it did have rubber cement remnants which may have left the new piece a bit proud making the window travel tight.

One thing I noticed is the pivot rivet has more slop than I'd expect. I tried to clamp down on the rivet more, but it didn't seem to help. I wish I had welded the rivet tool to a c-clamp as one of the threads recommended. I used a punch in a vise to apply the back pressure while hammering the tool down on the rivet to form it. I tried a F-clamps since I have more of those, but it didn't work well. I bought an extra tool so I could cut one in half for the welding purpose. I will try it that way on the driver vent.

LockDoc 02-17-2015 02:08 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by highwinger (Post 7052554)
Thanks Doc for the detailed response. I will recall the links when I'm ready to replace the door glass. Have you used Classic Industry's door glass too?

I'm really surprised the rubber tucks in the door. I found the plastic stick used for windshield installation real good at working the rubber since its blunt and stiff so it doesn't harm the rubber.

wrt the vertical channel, mine had been replaced before, so I didn't have to cut it out like in the video. However, it did have rubber cement remnants which may have left the new piece a bit proud making the window travel tight.

One thing I noticed is the pivot rivet has more slop than I'd expect. I tried to clamp down on the rivet more, but it didn't seem to help. I wish I had welded the rivet tool to a c-clamp as one of the threads recommended. I used a punch in a vise to apply the back pressure while hammering the tool down on the rivet to form it. I tried a F-clamps since I have more of those, but it didn't work well. I bought an extra tool so I could cut one in half for the welding purpose. I will try it that way on the driver vent.


No, I have never bought new glass for any of my builds.

It makes it a lot easier with the rivets if you have a helper to hold the vent window while you seat them.

Just for reference here is how I install my windows and vents (reverse for removal):

There are a couple of different thoughts on this but here is how I assemble mine.

Make sure you have the new felt window channel in the wing window. But do not install the felt channel around the top and down inside the rear of the door yet.

Insert the rear door glass guide/channel into the door but don’t bolt it in place yet.

Install the door latch remote and window riser mechanisms if they have been removed.. (make sure the roller is in the track on the inside of the door)

With the window riser arms part way down (horizontal position) install the window. (you have to slide it toward the front to get it started into the roller guides) After you have the window installed roll it down, and slide it back toward the door latch. (make sure it doesn’t slide out of the track)

Insert the wing window lower bracket into the window opening from the inside of the door, about where the window and wing window meet. After it is inside the door rotate the wing window to it’s correct orientation and slide it down into place.

Put the three (I think) small flat head screws through the angled part of the door frame and into the wing window, then put the two ¼” machine screws through the bottom holes in the door inner panel and into the bottom bracket of the wing window.

Now slide the door window forward into the wing window channel.

Put the door window felt channel into the door frame starting at the top of the wing window and work your way around to the back. Be sure and push up on the felt channel as you go around the corner. Do not put it into the inside of the door yet.

Put the rear glass guide/channel up into place and put the ¼” machine screw in at the top by the door latch but do not tighten it up.

Insert the felt window channel down inside the door and press it into the remainder of the door frame and rear glass guide/channel. Push the rear glass guide/channel in against the window glass and put the two ¼” machine screws through the bottom holes in the door inner panel into the bottom bracket of the glass guide/channel. Now tighten all of the machine screws up and try the window to see how it works.

Put your new inner and outer window sweeps on and you are done. You may have to trim them slightly for length.

I hope I haven’t forgotten any steps in the process and if I have I hope someone points them out.

LockDoc

highwinger 02-20-2015 05:18 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
I pulled the vent window back out today in attempt to reseat the rubber in the channel assuming that was the problem. I did reseat it as much as I could before pulling it out too. Well it turns out it was seated and I didn't make the situation any better. In fact, the door is now cracked a lot more.

There is two prevailing issues as I can see. First, the vent glass has to move forward to close. Second, the rounded part hits the rubber keeping it from closing and it also pulls the rubber from the door channel.

This is very frustrating.

LockDoc 02-20-2015 05:27 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by highwinger (Post 7058093)
I pulled the vent window back out today in attempt to reseat the rubber in the channel assuming that was the problem. I did reseat it as much as I could before pulling it out too. Well it turns out it was seated and I didn't make the situation any better. In fact, the door is now cracked a lot more.

There is two prevailing issues as I can see. First, the vent glass has to move forward to close. Second, the rounded part hits the rubber keeping it from closing and it also pulls the rubber from the door channel.

This is very frustrating.


At this point I'm not sure what to tell you without actually being there. I don't know if there is more than one manufacturer of the replacement kits or not. I didn't have much trouble with mine but I don't know who manufactured it. I bought it from a local parts vendor and I'm pretty sure he gets his parts from Classic Parts in Riverside, MO. Here is a link: http://www.classicparts.com/1967-72-.../#.VOeofLbVrTo

LockDoc

highwinger 02-20-2015 07:08 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
I tried Ecklers since they are close enough to drive to but they have the same brand I already have. I can your co. And see who they use. Thanks for the link.

highwinger 02-20-2015 07:16 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
They say they have them made by United. Got em on order. Worth a shot.

LockDoc 02-21-2015 01:27 AM

Re: vent window woes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by highwinger (Post 7058280)
They say they have them made by United. Got em on order. Worth a shot.


Sounds good. Keep us posted.....

LockDoc

highwinger 02-21-2015 11:27 AM

Re: vent window woes
 
In this thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=157539 it states to remove the vent window to remove the door window. I was expecting to do the reverse since I cracked the door glass removing & installing the vent window, specifically at the forward upper corner of the glass. I had to remove the vertical fwd felt too in order to rotate the vent assy enough to remove & install. But then, the glass hits the metal of the channel which is where I got some cracking & chipping. Help?

LockDoc 02-22-2015 10:06 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by highwinger (Post 7058997)
In this thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=157539 it states to remove the vent window to remove the door window. I was expecting to do the reverse since I cracked the door glass removing & installing the vent window, specifically at the forward upper corner of the glass. I had to remove the vertical fwd felt too in order to rotate the vent assy enough to remove & install. But then, the glass hits the metal of the channel which is where I got some cracking & chipping. Help?

Nope, you have to remove or slide back the door glass to get the vent out.

I typed this up tonight so I will post it here too...

'67-'72 Chevy & GMC vent window removal.

Remove the inside door handle and window riser handle.

Remove the door inner panel.

Remove the inner and outer window sweeps. (You can’t pull the wing window back to get it out of the door frame with them in place)

Pull the door window channel out of the door frame at the top by the wing window. (You can’t pull the wing window back to get it out of the door frame with it in place)

Remove the two ¼” machine screws at the bottom of the "rear" window channel and the ¼” machine screw from the the top of the "rear" window channel by the door latch. You can leave the channel in the door but push it back in the corner.

(If you are going to replace the window felt channel pull it all out starting up by the top of the wing window)

Roll the door window down and slide it back away from the wing window.

Remove the three small flat head screws that go through the angled part of the door frame and into the wing window, then remove the two ¼” machine screws from the bottom holes in the inner door that screw into the bottom bracket of the wing window.

From the inside of the vehicle tip the wing window back and pull it up a ways, then rotate it so that the bottom mounting bracket will slide out of the opening when you slide it all the way up and tip it toward you.

Any questions post 'em up....

LockDoc

Average Joe 02-23-2015 01:48 AM

Re: vent window woes
 
Sub'd for future reference. Thanks lockdoc for taking the time to write this up!

LockDoc 02-23-2015 11:51 AM

Re: vent window woes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Average Joe (Post 7061578)
Sub'd for future reference. Thanks lockdoc for taking the time to write this up!


No Problem.

LockDoc

72MARIO 02-24-2015 07:36 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
Only thing that should be added is to use 3M green masking tape along the top of the door where the sweeps were removed to protect the paint. I even go as far as to tape the entire window opening. Rather tap the glass on tape than paint

LockDoc 02-24-2015 08:45 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 72MARIO (Post 7064111)
Only thing that should be added is to use 3M green masking tape along the top of the door where the sweeps were removed to protect the paint. I even go as far as to tape the entire window opening. Rather tap the glass on tape than paint


Good point. I never took the glass out of one that was nice enough to worry about....:)

LockDoc

vectorit 02-24-2015 10:31 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
I will say one thing about this.. You guys have more determination that I do on this... I tried rebuilding my wings, and went through all this same head ache.

I ended up buying new complete wing sets.

highwinger 02-25-2015 10:21 AM

Re: vent window woes
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by LockDoc (Post 7061246)

Remove the two ¼” machine screws at the bottom of the "rear" window channel and the ¼” machine screw from the the top of the "rear" window channel by the door latch. You can leave the channel in the door but push it back in the corner.

Roll the door window down and slide it back away from the wing window.

LockDoc

I understand all but this step. I don't see the screws shown in the dwg. Pulling the window back is the part I was missing and caused me to break the glass.

highwinger 02-25-2015 11:15 AM

Re: vent window woes
 
Also, what sealant is used in the "#2 sash asm lower"? I did notice this may be loose on the vent window.

highwinger 02-25-2015 11:18 AM

Re: vent window woes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by vectorit (Post 7064408)
I will say one thing about this.. You guys have more determination that I do on this... I tried rebuilding my wings, and went through all this same head ache.

I ended up buying new complete wing sets.

I'm getting there :but: it really seems doable. Whose gaskets did you use?

LockDoc 02-25-2015 01:49 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by highwinger (Post 7064974)
I understand all but this step. I don't see the screws shown in the dwg. Pulling the window back is the part I was missing and caused me to break the glass.

The screws I'm talking about are not shown in the drawing. One would be about where the arrow with the "A" is only it is on the back edge of the door above the latch. The other two are at the bottom of that same channel. They may be under the door panel seal. (See arrows on pic below.)

Quote:

Originally Posted by highwinger (Post 7065052)
Also, what sealant is used in the "#2 sash asm lower"? I did notice this may be loose on the vent window.

If it is loose I would just use a little black silicone sealant on it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by highwinger (Post 7065055)
I'm getting there :but: it really seems doable. Whose gaskets did you use?

I think he bought the complete wing window assemblies, not just the gaskets.

LockDoc

highwinger 02-25-2015 02:00 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
Oh, so loosing that rear channel will allow the window to side towards the rear. Great, thanks. New name for you: RockDoc :metal:

My new gaskets will be here tomorrow, but wife's 50th bday will preclude me from trying them this weekend. Not complaining...she :metal: too.

LockDoc 02-25-2015 09:42 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by highwinger (Post 7065279)
Oh, so loosing that rear channel will allow the window to side towards the rear. Great, thanks. New name for you: RockDoc :metal:

My new gaskets will be here tomorrow, but wife's 50th bday will preclude me from trying them this weekend. Not complaining...she :metal: too.


Some days I don't feel too RockDocky...:lol:

When you get to it let us know how it goes....

LockDoc

vectorit 02-25-2015 10:35 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by highwinger (Post 7065055)
I'm getting there :but: it really seems doable. Whose gaskets did you use?

I don't remember really, it was a long time ago.
I just remember going through a lot of hassle, and not getting the finish product I was expecting. So I threw in the towel, saved my coins, and bought a new set of wings.

Good luck to you and your rebuild!

highwinger 02-28-2015 08:45 AM

Re: vent window woes
 
2 Attachment(s)
More than you ever cared to know about vent window gaskets...


The following pics are direct side-by-side comparisons of the vent window gaskets from my original purchase (PRP via Brothers) and my recent purchase recommended by LockDoc (United via Classic Parts). From this initial look, I believe the CPs will indeed work better. Here's why...

Pic # 7 & 8 are of the ends that connect to the vertical gasket. I believe the CPs are shaped properly to not form bulging at the intersections like I saw with PRPs. CPs are shown on the right in the pics.

highwinger 02-28-2015 08:56 AM

Re: vent window woes
 
2 Attachment(s)
The next two pics show the mid section of both pieces of gasket. #9 is the area where the gasket meets the pivot rivet bracket. Obviously, one has a cutout and one doesn't. If you read the previous posts, you'll recall I had concerns about the PRP gaskets and having to cut that section out. Not a big deal, but just the unknown necessary procedures are what make the process frustrating.

#10 shows the holes for the rivets to mount the vertical portion of the gasket. You can see the CPs have a counter bore molded into the rubber. This is better because it give the rivets a more positive stopping point and they don't squeeze out the rubber from underneath.

CPs are on the right in both pics.

highwinger 02-28-2015 09:15 AM

Re: vent window woes
 
1 Attachment(s)
Finally (at least for pre-install), is the forward bend end of the gasket...the area that keeps my wing from closing properly currently. #11 shows the area that seats into the metal gasket c-channel that holds the gasket to the frame. I've felt like the current PRPs are too loose which allows the rubber to be pulled out by the window upon closing. Not good. This pic supports that belief. The CPs (on right) are more rounded and thicker which should conform to the c-channel properly. I expect they'll be harder to get install into the channel, but won't pull out once they're in.

Another observation is the flap thickness. I had a hard time getting the wing to rotate on installation. One reason was the combined width of the two flaps and the frame made for a very tight fit in the angled door frame which it has to pass thru while rotating the wing into position.

I won't be installing this weekend for a couple reasons. One is I didn't get the pivot rivets from CP. Btw, it does appear the gaskets rivets from LMC are sized slightly different. I don't know which I prefer yet, but I didn't really like the how the LMCs worked previously. So I will looked forward to a different set to try. Also, I think the issue I had with the wing glass moving is likely due to the rivet shoulder being undersized. I can detail this more when I get the replacements.

Layne 02-28-2015 03:30 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
Thanks for the pics! I'm still trying to talk myself into trying mine.

LockDoc 02-28-2015 10:17 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by highwinger (Post 7069386)
Finally (at least for pre-install), is the forward bend end of the gasket...the area that keeps my wing from closing properly currently. #11 shows the area that seats into the metal gasket c-channel that holds the gasket to the frame. I've felt like the current PRPs are too loose which allows the rubber to be pulled out by the window upon closing. Not good. This pic supports that belief. The CPs (on right) are more rounded and thicker which should conform to the c-channel properly. I expect they'll be harder to get install into the channel, but won't pull out once they're in.

Another observation is the flap thickness. I had a hard time getting the wing to rotate on installation. One reason was the combined width of the two flaps and the frame made for a very tight fit in the angled door frame which it has to pass thru while rotating the wing into position.

I won't be installing this weekend for a couple reasons. One is I didn't get the pivot rivets from CP. Btw, it does appear the gaskets rivets from LMC are sized slightly different. I don't know which I prefer yet, but I didn't really like the how the LMCs worked previously. So I will looked forward to a different set to try. Also, I think the issue I had with the wing glass moving is likely due to the rivet shoulder being undersized. I can detail this more when I get the replacements.


It will be interesting to see how it goes.
Just be sure to lube that bottom corner good before you try to install it.

LockDoc

highwinger 03-04-2015 03:43 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
Any preference on getting the door glass with or without the metal lower included? Fairly significant price increase with the metal. Is the suburban glass the same as the truck? It would seem they are different since the door seals differ.

highwinger 03-04-2015 05:02 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
Yes, the glass is different...I finally found a pic of the burb glass: http://www.restorationperformance.co...ower-frame-rh/. That's the best price I found too. Classic Parts is only $10 more. I might have the glass made locally since I can't seem to find it without the frame.

So you can remove the vent window and/or the door glass independently? No need to remove one or the other first to get the other out? I'm just thinking of doing the vent & door glass at different times. Once I figure out the vent, I'll go the glass so I don't ruin the glass...again.

highwinger 03-10-2015 02:26 PM

Re: vent window woes
 
Update: I installed the new CP rubber last night. I'm getting pretty quick in the process now ;). All the differences pictured above were in fact contributors in making the CP brand a better product. It snapped in well into the groove and stayed there and the window opens and closes as expected. Seeming a little thing to ask. :lol:

I'm having the door glass made today locally. I have the felts on order. Repops is owned by MontCo now and supplies Ecklers (also local), so I ordered them today too. I'll re-tint the glass before installing back into the door. Then I can move on the driver door and repeat. I have to replace the virtual "4th" door glass too after that.

Thanks for all the help. I can post some more pics later.

highwinger 03-11-2015 08:06 AM

Re: vent window woes
 
I got everything installed last night except the felts which are due tomorrow. Everything works as expected...wow...that was easy :haha:. It really isn't too bad when you know what your're doing and the parts work right. The rubber was obviously better from CP and I think the rivets worked better too. I didn't have any slop in the pivot rivet from CP. I really hate the trial & error of the reproduction parts. They are not all made equal. I hope this thread will help other avoid my hassles. Unfortunately, I don't think there is any one go-to vendor of everything.

The window I replaced had grey glass so that's what we put back in. It isn't as dark as the tinted glass on the rest of the burb, so I will probably get it tinted after I do the other windows. I tried tinting the new one last night but I could never get it clean enough and it peeled off when I installed it back into the door. That's a job the pros do cheap & better IMO.

Is grey glass standard? Or green or clear?

highwinger 03-11-2015 08:19 AM

Re: vent window woes
 
3 Attachment(s)
Here's some pics of the areas of noticeable improvement. During the install, the rubber snapped into channel well with a bit of soapy water and it didn't pop out like the previous brand. Pic #1 shows the fit around the pivot bracket. The CP gasket already had the cutout where I had to figure it out with PRP's. Pic #2 shows the how well the two pieces fit together. And last but most importantly, Pic #3 shows the fwd bend area fit. I used a clamp to help snap that section into the channel. Once it was in, it stayed put. The wing didn't pull it out of the channel like with PRP's. Success at last.

Now on to the driver door, then the second seat windows...

GMCPaul 03-11-2015 09:30 AM

Re: vent window woes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by highwinger (Post 7085239)
Here's some pics of the areas of noticeable improvement. During the install, the rubber snapped into channel well with a bit of soapy water and it didn't pop out like the previous brand. Pic #1 shows the fit around the pivot bracket. The CP gasket already had the cutout where I had to figure it out with PRP's. Pic #2 shows the how well the two pieces fit together. And last but most importantly, Pic #3 shows the fwd bend area fit. I used a clamp to help snap that section into the channel. Once it was in, it stayed put. The wing didn't pull it out of the channel like with PRP's. Success at last.

Now on to the driver door, then the second seat windows...

Unless they have changed Brothers was not selling Precision made vent window seals. The CP supplied seals pictured look to be just like precisions.
Paul Je. @ GMCPauls

highwinger 03-11-2015 10:45 AM

Re: vent window woes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by GMCPaul (Post 7085310)
Unless they have changed Brothers was not selling Precision made vent window seals. The CP supplied seals pictured look to be just like precisions.
Paul Je. @ GMCPauls

I called Brothers but they wouldn't give out their vendor's name. In my door seal thread, I apparently found PRP supplied them to Brothers. I could be wrong. Thanks for clarifying.


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