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"Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
I start this project in late 2013. It’s been slow going but I’ve managed to keep a fairly steady pace. My plans are to put a 1949 AD on an S10 Chassis. This is a project I've wanted to do for a while. I owned a 1952 Chevy for about a year but sold it in early 2013 and I'm now using the funds from that sale to get this project done.
Back in June 2013 I picked up a 1949 Chevy 1 Ton Stake Bed truck with the intentions of using only the sheet metal. It was non-running. The motor was missing the head and it was locked up. The last Missouri state inspection sticker was dated 1972. It had, as I was told, spent most of its life in a barn or covered shed. It was the most solid truck I had come across in my price range. It doesn't need any floors but could use some patching where the kick panels meet the toe boards. Each of the cab corners are just starting to rust though. There's not much left of the interior but I plan to redo all of that anyways. I ended up giving $1,200 for it and the guy included delivery which was 110 miles to my house. I don’t plan on doing anything to the exterior of the truck; I like the patina and the painted doors. I would like to do the interior really nice and dress out the engine compartment. But, for now, my objective is to get a solid running, driving, mechanically sound and completed roadworthy truck, then go back and do the interior and under hood. Here are some pictures when I went to look at “Albert”. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4...25281%2529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B...25282%2529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y...25283%2529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-D...25284%2529.JPG Here are some pics of Albert being delivered. I was a little nerve wracking getting it off the trailer since it didn’t have any brakes and I didn’t wanting it plowing through my neighbor’s fence. I hooked a safety chain on it to stop it from running away and also laid down a couple railroad ties. It stopped on the first tie. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-B...25285%2529.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2...25286%2529.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q...25287%2529.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-M...25288%2529.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-b...25289%2529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...52810%2529.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B...52811%2529.JPG |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
A couple pics of my previously owned 52 Chevy: 1952 Chevy
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-H...25283%2529.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-z...25286%2529.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m...52810%2529.JPG |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Nice score!! I just got a '48 1 ton last fall....mine is a like yours...just not a dually...trying to get the brakes sorted out & make a driver out of it & move on toward what you are doing when money's less tight:lol:
Is there any manufacturer name on that grain box? |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Albert would go back to being a work horse if he were mine.
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
I have located some bed parts. The first bed I bought was converted into a trailer and I gave $200 for it. The fenders were pretty beat-up; apparently they used it in some sort of figure 8 demo-derby type of race. I stripped the trailer down and sold the trailer for $50 and the bed sides for $150 and got my $200 back. What I was left with was the front panel and a GMC tailgate. I picked up some decent bedsides, so-so fenders, three running boards, and four running board to bed filler pieces for $100. I also picked up a decent rear bumper and bumper brackets for $75. I’m going to try and match the patina of the truck on the bed and rear fenders. Only pics I have are of the old POS trailer and bed sides I sold off. The other parts aren’t much to look at either but they’ll do for now.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Q...52812%2529.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-k...52813%2529.JPG |
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Just before I bought the 49 I had seen a complete S10 with a bad 4.3 advertised. It was still for sale after I had bought the 49. I ended up getting the S10 for $600. I did have to pay $100 for a tow truck since I wanted to get it that night and I didn’t have a means to haul it. Since I've bought the S10 I've pretty much parted out what I don't need. I sold the bed, camper, front clip, doors, cab, steering column, and rear end totaling to $750. About all I kept were the chassis, transmission, and the wheels and tires.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-x...52814%2529.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-s...52815%2529.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-G...52816%2529.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-D...52817%2529.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-X...52818%2529.JPG |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
The S10 chassis has been stripped down and all the parts I didn’t need got sold off. I pressure washed it; wire wheeled the front half then coated with Ospho. I don’t plan on doing any painting yet, I want to reach the goal of having a running driving truck then go back and do the cosmetic stuff.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-W...52819%2529.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-j...52820%2529.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-L...52821%2529.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Z...52822%2529.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-P...52823%2529.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X...52824%2529.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-F...52825%2529.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-G...52826%2529.JPG |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
The rear 2-wd rear end has been swapped out with a 4-wd rear end to get the wider track width. The rear end came out of a 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with the production codes GT4 G80. It's a disk brake, 3:73 gear with limited slip. I went ahead and removed the cover and drained it, washed it out with brake clean, and installed new axle seals, and filled it with fresh gear oil. I installed new dust shields, rotors, and pads.
I’ve also learned that a Ford 8.8 in. rear end which is common in Explores has a track width very close to a 4-wd S10 rear end. They even have nearly the same spring saddle width and they are practically a drop in other than needing some conversion u-joints. I’ve seen this conversion discussed on several S10 forums. If my rear end doesn’t hold up in the long run, I’ll probably swap it out to a stronger Ford 8.8 in. The rear end for now has 3 in. drop blocks. Beware, don’t mess with the Beltech drop block set or other manufactures drop block sets for the S10, they don’t come with the right u-bolts 1) they are too wide and 2) they are a smaller diameter rod than stock. I had u-bolts bent at a leaf spring shop of the correct diameter and dimensions. Jagsthatrun.com are the only one that I know of that include the correct size u-bolts, which I wish I knew beforehand. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-S...52827%2529.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z...52828%2529.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n...52829%2529.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-G...52830%2529.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-U...52832%2529.JPG |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Where did you get the new dust shields
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For the front I did a Blazer big brake conversion and needed new dust shields. New ones were like $35 a piece, I ended buying those salvage. |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
The front end has been completely gone through. New rotors, pads, calipers, wheel bearings, ball joints, steering links, everything. I also did a Blazer big brake conversion that provides larger rotors and dual piston calipers in lieu of the original single piston calipers. All brake parts come from a 2000 Blazer using 2000 Blazer spindles. For the spindles I also bought 2-wd Beltech 2 in. drop spindles, PN 2102. Most of the info on how to do this is on the S10 forums but it’s fairly easy, just replace the spindles, wheel bearings, and brake parts with those from a 2000 Blazer. You can also use Corvette calipers and rotors with some adapter brackets. I added hubcentric 2 in. wheel spacers to get the proper front tract width also.
I also pulled a sway bar off a 2000 Olds Bravada which is significantly larger in diameter than the stock S10 sway bar. It was a direct bolt in and I have been told these are the sway bars they used in the ZQ8 S10s. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k...833%252529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t...834%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A...835%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a...836%252529.jpg |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
The front springs were a pain to get back in. I first had to compress the spring to to get it up into the spring tower and the a-arm under it. I borrowed a spring compression tool from O’Reilly’s and even had to cut down the rod a little to get it to fit up into the spring tower. Since I didn’t have much weight on the chassis yet, I then had to chain a jack to it to compress the spring to get the lower ball joint attached. Here’s a couple of pictures of how I went about it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V...837%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6...838%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J...839%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z...840%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4...841%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5...842%252529.jpg |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Hey thanks for the idea & photos on the front coil installation I am having a similar problem with an old stripped down El Camino. Can't wait to see your truck when it's done.
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Nice work! Been doing this a long time now and the chain idea is a new one for me. Thanks for sharing!
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I did the exact same thing you did, brake up grade bell tech spindles, sway bar and a chain to put it back together, then I went to the wrecking yard and found a wrecked S-10 Extreme and got the coil springs and quick ratio steering box now i gotta take it back apart and try not to scratch anything, Hussey what are you doing for front brake lines
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I haven’t done anything with the front lines for now. I do have the rubber flex lines off a 2000 Blazer that I'll mount up. From the flex lines to the master cylinder I'll see if I can tweak the lines I have off my original S10, or I may go get some lines off a 2000ish Blazer, or bend up some new line, just not sure yet. What did you do? |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Haven't done anything yet blazer soft brake line and my truck hard line has different fittings the blazer hard lines are not a direct fit to the master cylinder (blazer has abs) and if I'm not mistaken, where the line exits the calipers are in two different places from single piston calipers to dual piston, I know it's not that big off a deal I have made brake lines before and I'm a little nervous about making them
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
My engine came from Pick N' Pull, I grabbed it during a 4th of July weekend during their half off sale. It’s a 350 that came out of a 1990 K1500 with TBI. This so far has been the best deal on the truck; I think I have about $85 in it. It came with the intake and the TBI unit. I had to pay a little extra for the MAP sensor, EGR solenoid, Engine Control Module, Spark Control Module, etc. The front end accessories came off the 4.3 from my S10. I had earlier bought a long block 350 Vortec off a guy for $50 who had just swapped his out with a new motor from Jegs. It needed a rebuild and I bought it just to mock up the motor position. I ended up selling it for $100 so that was an extra $50 that went back in to my build fund.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-n...52843%2529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m...52844%2529.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-u...52845%2529.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-d...52846%2529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J...52847%2529.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t...52848%2529.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-l...52849%2529.JPG |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
A few other little things are done too like a new fuel pump and fuel lines routed and hooked up. Power steering lines also hooked up. The engine is set but I can adjust it forward or backward a couple of inches once I get the cab on. I’m using Advance Adapters S10 conversion motor mounts.
I know there’s multiple ways to do the motor mounts but this is the solution I came up with. The S10 conversion mounts are meant to move the motor forward not back. You need to move the motor back with an S10 chassis swap. I bought a set of S10 conversion mounts thinking I could simply swap them side to side to get the motor to move back not forward. However, the fuel pump casting of the block interferes with the motor mount adapter plates. So, I put the S10 conversion mounts on the chassis and the rubber motor mounts on the motor. One other problem, at least on my chassis, the chassis motor mount bolt holes are not symmetrical. This is why the S10 2.8L motor mounts have slots in them and the Corvette style has holes. On the passengers side you can install all three bolts. On the drivers side you can install the top bolt then drill the lower two on the chassis or weld the S10 conversion mounts to the chassis. I haven’t gotten my engine set yet so I’ve put off worrying about final attachment until then; though, I will probably bolt them on. I picked up my S10 conversion mounts on eBay for $30 shipped. Otherwise, I don't think I would have experimented with them. So in summary, S10 conversion mounts bolted to the chassis, rubber motor mounts bolted to the motor. From my measurements, this will get the motor back about 4 inches which I’m hoping is enough for radiator clearance; otherwise I will have to come up with another solution. ***EDIT -- This ended up working well for me. The conversion mounts bolted to the chassis were at the halfway mark of the bolt slots. On the driers side you need to oblong the holes in the chassis to get the conversion mount to bolt on. Or, once you have it where you want, just weld it on. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N...853%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I...852%252529.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E...52854%2529.jpg Anchor 2436, 1990 S10 2.8L https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...52855%2529.jpg Anchor 2713, 1990 Corvette https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O...856%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f...857%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...858%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N...859%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9...860%252529.jpg |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Glad you posted about the mounts, I was looking into those mounts. I hope they work out as I am in the same boat.
My S10 donor has a 350 in it but it looks way too far forward, I will know better once I get it stripped down. |
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Great work!
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Once I got the motor set on the chassis I built the exhaust from mandrel u-bends back to the muffler. I’m running Headman S10 V8 conversion headers. The y-pipe is 2.5 inch out of the headers with a 3 inch pipe back to the muffler. The muffler is a Flowmaster 40 Series and has dual 2.5 inch pipes out. Once I get the bed and rear bumper on I’ll figure out the routing back and under the bumper.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K...861%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r...862%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...863%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G...864%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A...866%252529.jpg |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Subscribed.........looks great so far!
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
that exhaust is gorgeous, nice work
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Been working on the truck on and off lately and don’t have my pics yet organized to show what I’ve done. For now I thought I’d share how I went about building my exhaust. For cutting the mandrel bends I have a jig I made up that works well for me. You can see how I made the jig and how it works in a couple of the pics below. Picture of the jig below:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K...867%252529.jpg I used MDF to make the jig. The jig body is built up from several pieces of MDF. The thickness of the jig will need to be less than the diameter of the pipe. Here, I used three pieces of MDF. The width of the jig will be the inside bend width of the u-bend. U-bends will have a long radius bend of 1.5xD (diameter). To get the inside width of the u-bend you can calculate it as 1.5xDx2-D, or measure it. You will find out most of the time it’s a little greater than “theoretical”. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z...868%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N...869%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z...870%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2...871%252529.jpg Once you have the jig body assembled, find the center and put a half circle on it with a compass as show below. I then nibble away the excess with a chop saw then finish it off on a sander. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...872%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J...873%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...874%252529.jpg You will also need to drill a through hole on your center mark. I also recess the hole a little on the back for a carriage bolt. You will attach a radius cutting guide with the center bolt. The radius cutting guide is simply a strip of metal with a hole drilled in the middle of it and a slit cut down the center of it. I stack a couple of wasthers under it to get it to the height of the pipe. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O...875%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d...876%252529.jpg The finished jig is show below. The finished jig allows you to cut the correct anle to match the routing of your exhuast. The jig also ensures you cut along a line that intersects the radiaus center point of the bend to esure the plane end of the cut is round. [/img] https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M...877%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q...878%252529.jpg I use an adjustable square to find the angle of the cut. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6...879%252529.JPG Once you know the angle of the cut from your adjustable square, use it to set up the appropriate angle on the jig. No mesuring or math here. The two pictures below show two different methods for finding the correct angle on the jig from your adjustable square. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X...880%252529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A...881%252529.JPG Once the jig is adjusted, cut the pipe. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...882%252529.JPG The picture below shows the final cut piece and the angle of the cut. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k...883%252529.JPG Below shows how to jig up a pipe angle without the straight leg of the u-bend. I usually make use of the straight leg but if you have some left over and un-utilized bends you can cut angle sections out of it. The first picture shows setting the piece in the jig. The second and third pictures show the two different methods for finding the correct angle on the jig from your adjustable square. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c...884%252529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B...885%252529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i...886%252529.JPG I use an inexpensive Harbor Freight band saw. I like to use the bi-metal blades by SuperCut. They don’t alawys have them at Harbor Freight. I think the bi-metal blades are worth ordering because the last much longer. You can tilt the chop arm up and turn it into a table top band saw as show in the previouse pictures. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L...887%252529.jpg For my exhaust supply I use all aluminized piping and u-bends. U-bends can be hard to find other than mail order. There’s a muffler shop in Tokepa, KS that has a mandrel bending machine, which is really rare given how expensive the machines are. I live about an hour from there so I made a trip to pick up some pieces from him. He may be willing to ship; the shops name is Hogan Muffler & Brake, www.hoganmuffler.com. For the straight sections, I would check with a local exhaust shop first before a parts store. In my experience, an exhaust shop will give you a better price on exhaust piping. You will need a separate jig for each size of exhaust piping you are working with since they all have a different bend radius. For far I have one made up for 2, 2-1/2 and 3 in. pipe. I had also built the exhaust for a 52 Chevy that I used to own after splitting the stock manifold. Here are some pictures of my 52 exhaust whose routing was a little tighter and more complicated than my AD/S10 project. Building exhaust like this is pretty easy to do, it’s just a little time consuming. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h...888%252529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C...889%252529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-D...892%252529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r...893%252529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--...890%252529.JPG |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
After I got the exhaust routed back to the muffler I got the engine running and test fired with a stand-alone wiring harness. The stand-alone engine wiring harness came from FuelInjectionConnection.com. They sell on-line and on eBay. At first I was going to use a stock harness but everyone I looked at the yards was old and brittle. I was happy spending the $245 on the new engine wiring harness given its quality and ease of install. I mocked up the engine wiring harness and ignition switch so I could test fire the engine.
The engine came from Pick N’ Pull so I was rolling the dice a bit. The truck it came out of showed to have right at 100,000 miles on it. But when I got the motor home and cleaned it up, I discovered it had a GM rebuild tag on it so who knows how many miles are actually on it. The motor turned over fine by hand at the yard. I pulled the valve cover at the yard and it looked nice and clean underneath, not all sludged up. When I got it home I pulled all the plugs, oiled the cylinder walls, and ran a compression test on it. Compression showed to be consistent among all cylinders and around 175-185 psi. The engine ended up running out fine with good oil pressure, hopefully it drives out ok. There’s a video of the test fire here Test Fire Chevy 350 TBI. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O...893%252529.jpg |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Hussey, that was a great tutorial, and great work, on the exhaust. Thanks for sharing that!
Really good mock up on the harness too. |
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I’ve been buttoning up a couple small things on the chassis and I think I’ve just about got a rolling chassis ready to go. I still have to run the brake lines which I’ll do after the booster and master cylinder get mounted. This is where the chassis sits as of now. The original chassis cab mounts have been cut off and the front frame horns have been cut off just in front of the steering gear box.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z...894%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z...894%252529.jpg |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Hussey nice work and great video. I have learned that on the later model Chevy 350s, those that come with center bolt valve covers, Chevy went to a thin 1/16 compression and oil ring. The low tension rings seal well and the cylinder walls last a long time. With any reasonable care taken the cylinder walls still show the cross hatches after well over 100,000 miles.
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
That jig for cutting the bends is pretty clever.
It's tought to get a straight cut through tubing with a band saw, maybe I'll make one and give it a try |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
So far I have done a bit of clean up on the cab. I’ve stripped just about everything out of it. The interior had been a mouse motel for who knows how long. I bet I have a good 40 hours stripping out the interior, cleaning, and blowing out all the nooks and crevices. Because of the mice, I scrubbed out the interior with hospital grade germicidal cleaner and flushed out the cab as best I could.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R...896%252529.JPG I went ahead and removed the lower seat surround. I have split bench seat out of a 60’s Chevelle that I think should work well. To get the lower seat surround off I used a saws all to first cut it down then I came back with a chisel point on my air hammer. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P...897%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6...898%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7...899%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G...100%252529.jpg A flexible scraper on my Dremel multi tool made quick work of removing all the factory insulation. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y...101%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...102%252529.jpg The cab is fairly solid. No rust on the bottom of the doors. Some through rust on the cab corners but it’s on the bottom edge where you have to get down to see it. There’s also some rust through on the both the drivers and passengers side where toe board meets the floor. I don’t plan on doing much patching now. I’m more focused on getting it mechanically complete then go back and do some of the body work. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A...103%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...104%252529.jpg My daughter Emily is always interested in what I’m up to. I hope to get another project in the future where I can actually get the kids involved. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q...105%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L...106%252529.jpg Also got the body stripped down. The bed wood wasn’t in all that good of shape so most of it got tossed. I did save the metal strapping off of it. I also pulled the hood and front clip to get the cab ready to move over to the S10 chassis. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J...107%252529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i...108%252529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B...109%252529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u...110%252529.JPG Before I pulled the front clip I marked the fenders where the wheels lined up. The big tires and wheels on the truck made it easier to see that the wheels were centered in the front wheel wells. I first jacked up the front a little to level the cab, then dropped a plum bob and centered it on the front axle, then marked the fender. That way, I can then use this as a reference point when mounting the sheet metal on the S10 chassis. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3...111%252529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...112%252529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b...113%252529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v...114%252529.JPG |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
A monumental day in the build has finally arrived, the moving of the cab to the S10 chassis. I had been looking forward to getting this done but also dreading it, not knowing how I was actually going to get the cab moved.
I had seen several other builders post pics of a cab moving rig they built and attached to their engine hoist, so I thought I would give it a shot. The hoist picked up the cab without any issues. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e...115%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t...116%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N...117%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G...118%252529.jpg My plan was to pull the cab off to the side and roll the S10 chassis underneath. I was going to swing the back end of the S10 chassis around with a jack in my drive to get it into position but the gravel drive makes that a pain in the ass. We ended up pushing the cab into the garage with the engine hoist, rolling it over one sheet of plywood at a time. It took a while but it all ended up getting done. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0...120%252529.jpg The cab is just sitting on some 4x4’s waiting on me to get it some cab mounts made up. It is satisfying finally seeing the cab on the chassis though. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_...121%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f...122%252529.jpg I also go the floor trimmed a little to get the cab to sit down on the 4x4s. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9...124%252529.jpg |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Great work and I love the cab lift. That cab is really solid too. Looks very good.
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