LMC remote unlock, questions?
I bought the remote unlock kit LMC offers, http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cbe/full.aspx?Page=63 at the top left, and I have a few questions to anyone who has bought it and installed it, if there are any out there.
First, do you have any pictures of where you mounted everything? I don't exactly want to put a few holes somewhere, and realize it won't work right.. Also, there is a yellow wire that connects to the controller, but is not mentioned ANYWHERE (unless I just don't see it) in the instructions. It's a single wire, split into two, and are about equal length. Any ideas? |
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i haven't mounted the brain, but buried in my build thread I did a write up taking 2 cheap-o actuators off ebay and installing them in my '66 for keyless entry. Depends on how you want it all to work.
I modified the door latch, but the easiest thing is to attach to the arm. As for the wires, it is a reverse polarity actuator. Positive on one lead, the other to ground will unlock, switch to lock. |
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Woh! Make sure you get some good documintation and pics please! I want this on my burb.
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Oh, i have no idea on the yellow wire. You sure it's not the antenna or something? How long is it? Pictures would help.
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It connects on the two-prong side, but only one wire connects to it, which is the yellow wire. |
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And here's some more pictures of the kit.
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Also, why was this moved to truck audio..?
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I'm throughing out a guess but antenna wire? Looks like the plug on the back of my home stereo head units am antenna wire. Guess there isn't any stereo/alarm guys around here?
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Did you happen to notice if there was a replacement solenoid? Id like to try to wire it up to the rear door on my burb too.
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Sure if that's what there called? Id just like to have that kit and be able to have it lock and unlock the tailgate/hatch lock on the back door too.
Huh, never thought about a 4 door install. Could verywell be. I guess all you would need is two more wires to run the rear doors too. Wouldn't they just use the pass door wires for that? And why would they loop the two together like that? I'm with you????? Strange they wouldn't even say what its all about in the instructions. Posted via Mobile Device |
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Actually, there are two other wires on the harness that are for the rear doors if you wanted to, so I don't think that is it, either. Not sure.. |
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I went to a class in Medford. Beautiful city. Did the jet mail boat on the river. Good times!
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I just found something I must've skipped over before on the main harness. There are two wires that do not go to anything I have, and one wire is white, the other is brown. I just looked at the tiny wiring diagram, and the two I found go off to the left, and connect to a, "spare negative trigger", and where the wires are, the white says "unlock", the other says, "lock". Is this yellow wire with relays considered a negative trigger, you think? |
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Perhaps a static switch that can be mounted on the door to activate the locks?
Learning a CNC program called microvellum. Its a cabinetry program used to design and export g code to a CNC machine that cuts/machines parts. Posted via Mobile Device |
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Sorry, I provide no help, but I've been searching for a kit like this, and it seems to be the cheapest out there...so I'm just watching and hoping to see it installed and working!
As a random guess about the yellow wires, antenna sounds the best so far since they don't have connections on the ends like the others. The only thing is they are awfully thick and antenna wires are usually the thinnest and black. Keep us posted and take pics of the install! |
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I don't know if someone already said it or not, but the yellow wire is for headlights. It makes them flash once for lock and trice for unlock I think.
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To any who wanted to see this being installed, you should not have to wait much longer. I kept putting it off, but I will be working on, and will hopefully finish, installing it tomorrow morning. I will take pictures as I go, and post how it works, and such.
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Excellent!
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Anxiously waiting!
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Sorry to let you guys down, but I woke up with Mono-like syptoms, so I'm just going to be taking it easy. Again, sorry guys! I'll get it installed as soon as I can!
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I'm going to have to use that excuse for work tomorrow! haha
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So I spent a good two hours working on it, and it's a no-go. The actuators simply just do not have enough thrust to lock or unlock our old-fashioned heavy-set locking system. I haven't given up completely, I'll find a way to get them to work, but it'll probably take a while.
Also, while I was wiring it up and testing it out, I figured out that the yellow wire blinks twice (used a test light to see what happened) when locking, and once when unlocking. So, I imagine it is for the headlights/drive lights, as rbagley said. But if I were to get this all good and working, I would also take one of the other wires and connect it to my horn, and it would honk when locking or unlocking. Posted via Mobile Device |
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Does the lmc kit fit directly into a 60-66 c10? do you need to modify the latch at all? or does it fit right in?
1963 Chevy C10 Fleetside Shortbed-230 Inline 6 |
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This is pretty old to the original poster but did you ever get LMCs kit to work?
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Im reviving this thread to tell you this kit SUCKS. I can't get the door lock to stay locked. It goes down and pops right back up like the brain is telling it to not stay locked. I can lock and unlock all day with the key. I should have done the autoloc kit over the lmc chinese ****. Ive wasted like 3 days on this pile. Use the Autoloc brand!
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