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Graham57a 10-17-2012 03:14 PM
Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
I've searched this forum for a while trying to find little details on factory restoration but I haven't found anything. I know there is a thread for 60-66 trucks but not 67-72.

The question: What are the little details (overspray, finishes, bolt types) that you've found consistent on these old trucks from the factory??

I thought it would be helpful for someone who wants to restore a truck to look factory "correct" if there was a place to compile all of these details and maybe ways that you've found to replicate some of the original details on your truck.

Graham57a 10-17-2012 03:15 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
1 Attachment(s)
I'll start. Idk how accurate this is but if I were to restore an engine compartment to factory I would probably start here

burb71 10-17-2012 04:08 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
In a way, but that is a publicity photo its meant just to look good in the sales catalog, the first thing I see wrong is the orange transmission.

But I'm with you 100% on compiling for factory correct restoration, thats the way I'm trying to do my truck

Graham57a 10-17-2012 06:07 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by burb71 (Post 5652537)
In a way, but that is a publicity photo its meant just to look good in the sales catalog, the first thing I see wrong is the orange transmission.

But I'm with you 100% on compiling for factory correct restoration, thats the way I'm trying to do my truck
True, I'm pretty sure the transmission is supposed to be silver. But you can see some nice details in the picture on the fuel pump and pulleys. Not 100% accurate but definitely a good start

Andy4639 10-17-2012 07:07 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
The exhaust manifolds are for 73 and up trucks. 72 down had ram horns. Nice clean picture though.;):chevy:

rsavage 10-17-2012 07:13 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Don't ever remember the exhaust manifolds being painted - they were bare cast. Also, I believe they should be ram horns for our 67-72's and the wires run down the back of the block and underneath the manifolds. That photo also bothers me in another way. All the old small blocks I have had have the dipstick on the driver's side. Didn't think they started pass side until about 1980? Guess I was a little slow on the manifolds - Andy beat me to it while I was typing.

Graham57a 10-17-2012 07:18 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
The point of this thread is to capitalize on the forgotten details that our trucks came with but were forgotten over time. I'll delete that picture if its inaccurate, let's not loose focus here
Posted via Mobile Device

Andy4639 10-17-2012 07:33 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham57a (Post 5652899)
The point of this thread is to capitalize on the forgotten details that our trucks came with but were forgotten over time. I'll delete that picture if its inaccurate, let's not loose focus here
Posted via Mobile Device
Were not losing focus, we are trying to focus on what you want. Details that make are break a restoration.

The picture just isn't peroid correct for our style truck. So if the person looking for help in his build see's this and assumes it correct they will be very upset when they findout it's not. Just saying...it is a nice color picture though of a small block Chevy engine.;):chevy:

71blksuper4x4 10-17-2012 08:01 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Andy, I am seeing a blown up picture of a Big Block chevy. The only small blocks are the multicolor cartoons at the bottom. It's correct as far as exhaust manifolds. ;) Trevor

JQ-72 10-17-2012 08:01 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
With all due respect Andy, the picture is correct - the engine picturedd is a 402 big block.
JQ

davepl 10-17-2012 08:03 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
2 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy4639 (Post 5652873)
The exhaust manifolds are for 73 and up trucks. 72 down had ram horns. Nice clean picture though.;):chevy:
Are you sure? I think those look right for big blocks. Of course the colors are all wrong, but the manifolds look like my '70s originals. [Edit: Just saw I was the third person to say that, sorry!]

In my teardown I didn't find much in the way of chalk marks on the firewall, I'd be curious to see what anyone has for photos of originals that still carried them. Unless the assembly line process was different enough from the cars that they didn't use them.

I'm not aiming for Pebble Beach style correctness, but still trying to make it look stock. So I use shiny bolts where they would have been painted and so on, so don't panic when you see the photo, I'm not claiming its 100%. Still, to me one of the biggest things in keeping the engine looking original are:

1) Correct paint sheens. Most black things underhood are 20% gloss, but the radiator is different (high gloss) and so on
2) Correct clamps and hose fittings and so on
3) Clean everything (check out my clutch fan in the pic below, it was seriously ugly, and that's just a lot of time with a toothbrush)
4) Correct stickers
5) Correct plug wires, correct distributor cap (not HEI), looms, etc. Mine are even Packard wires, though not date coded (I'm not that hardcore)

...and a personal peeve, but one of the most important:

6) If they didn't make or use it in 1970, don't use it. That means no zip ties, as handy as they are. No corrugated plastic wire covers, yellow 10mm plug wires, and so on.

Although not always correct, I'm a big fan of "contrast". That means different colors on different parts, different gloss levels, and so on. That's why my shocks are blue below (and because the original GM shocks I've seen were blue) and you'll see about 8 different finishes between the control arm and the spindle. From the factory it'd probably just be all black, but I'm into the variation.

Andy4639 10-17-2012 08:12 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Well I stand corrected then if it's a BB. I'm not a BB guy so I can't say for sure.
Graham57a my apoligizes sir.;):chevy:

Andy4639 10-17-2012 08:18 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by davepl (Post 5653024)
Are you sure? I think those look right for big blocks. Of course the colors are all wrong, but the manifolds look like my '70s originals. [Edit: Just saw I was the third person to say that, sorry!]

In my teardown I didn't find much in the way of chalk marks on the firewall, I'd be curious to see what anyone has for photos of originals that still carried them. Unless the assembly line process was different enough from the cars that they didn't use them.

I'm not aiming for Pebble Beach style correctness, but still trying to make it look stock. So I use shiny bolts where they would have been painted and so on, so don't panic when you see the photo, I'm not claiming its 100%. Still, to me one of the biggest things in keeping the engine looking original are:

1) Correct paint sheens. Most black things underhood are 20% gloss, but the radiator is different (high gloss) and so on
2) Correct clamps and hose fittings and so on
3) Clean everything (check out my clutch fan in the pic below, it was seriously ugly, and that's just a lot of time with a toothbrush)
4) Correct stickers
5) Correct plug wires, correct distributor cap (not HEI), looms, etc. Mine are even Packard wires, though not date coded (I'm not that hardcore)

...and a personal peeve, but one of the most important:

6) If they didn't make or use it in 1970, don't use it. That means no zip ties, as handy as they are. No corrugated plastic wire covers, yellow 10mm plug wires, and so on.

Although not always correct, I'm a big fan of "contrast". That means different colors on different parts, different gloss levels, and so on. That's why my shocks are blue below (and because the original GM shocks I've seen were blue) and you'll see about 8 different finishes between the control arm and the spindle. From the factory it'd probably just be all black, but I'm into the variation.
No need to be sorry man, we are all human. I'm just a small block guy and didn't realize it was a BB. I gues I need to look at more BB motors and get better versed on them.
Nice build by the way.

davepl 10-17-2012 08:20 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy4639 (Post 5653053)
No need to be sorry man, we are all human. I'm just a small block guy and didn't realize it was a BB. I gues I need to look at more BB motors and get better versed on them.
Nice build by the way.
Easiest way other than the big valve covers (and not everyone knows it) is to look at the exhaust manifolds. Small blocks have the two center ports together, big blocks have four individual ports spaced evenly. Same for the intake, but not as easy to see.

Sort of how I sort out my first-gen Camaros:

1) 69s have the side fake air vents are different enough to spot easily
2) 67s have vent windows
3) 68s are everything else!

Graham57a 10-17-2012 08:39 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Great info guys, Dave thank you for the pictures. Your motor is exactly what I would think it would've looked like off the assemble line. So would the manifolds be painted on a big block or would they be cast?

davepl 10-17-2012 08:41 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Almost certainly just cast iron, but of course they rust in the first weeks. I used an Eastwood product, and POR-15 and others make similar. Haven't fired it yet, but from those I spoke to it'll stay looking like that for quite a while, and you can touch it up as needed.

I glass-beaded the heck out of them first to remove whatever rust I could, though a chemical dip in rust converter might have worked better. I also blasted a ton of carbon out of the insides, which surprised me. Not that manifolds flow great even when new, but these were really loaded up!

Graham57a 10-17-2012 08:44 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by davepl (Post 5653112)
Almost certainly just cast iron, but of course they rust in the first weeks. I used an Eastwood product, and POR-15 and others make similar. Haven't fired it yet, but from those I spoke to it'll stay looking like that for quite a while, and you can touch it up as needed.

I glass-beaded the heck out of them first to remove whatever rust I could, though a chemical dip in rust converter might have worked better. I also blasted a ton of carbon out of the insides, which surprised me. Not that manifolds flow great even when new, but these were really loaded up!
Great pointer, thanks. Anyone else have pointers, tips, or really cherry original trucks that we can refer to??

Graham57a 10-17-2012 08:45 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy4639 (Post 5653039)
Well I stand corrected then if it's a BB. I'm not a BB guy so I can't say for sure.
Graham57a my apoligizes sir.;):chevy:
Not a problem, I'm learning just as much if not more then anyone on here. No apology needed, thank you for your input:chevy:

Andy4639 10-17-2012 08:59 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
I sure wished I had, had this board back when I started my truck. Mine isn't a orignal by no means but it would have been nice to had all the info about it captured here.;):chevy:

Graham57a 10-18-2012 06:41 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Dave how did you know what colors and finishes to paint everything on your motor and frame?
Posted via Mobile Device

Steve Hafner 10-18-2012 08:29 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
1 Attachment(s)
. . . .

The picture below, shows engines waiting to be installed in some "new" 1959 Chevys at the factory.

The exhaust manifolds were on the engine when it was painted.

Of course, it all burned off while being taken from the transporter to the dealers clean-up area !!!

. . . .

Steve Hafner 10-18-2012 08:41 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
1 Attachment(s)
. . . .

Here's a little detail that most people don't bother to do . . .

The cover over the driver's side exhaust manifold to add heat to the air cleaner was painted BLACK from the factory. ( as can be seen in the picture below, of the 350 engine in the 1970 pick up with 80 miles that was for sale a couple of years ago.)

I found some high temperature black paint for my restoration and it's staying on pretty good - so far !!!

This picture also shows that the black paint in the engine compartment was "glossier" then most people think too !!!

. . . .

Graham57a 10-19-2012 10:02 AM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Hafner (Post 5655199)
. . . .

Here's a little detail that most people don't bother to do . . .

The cover over the driver's side exhaust manifold to add heat to the air cleaner was painted BLACK from the factory. ( as can be seen in the picture below, of the 350 engine in the 1970 pick up with 80 miles that was for sale a couple of years ago.)

I found some high temperature black paint for my restoration and it's staying on pretty good - so far !!!

This picture also shows that the black paint in the engine compartment was "glossier" then most people think too !!!

. . . .
Great pictures thank you. Do you have any more pictures of that truck? I bet it was beautiful

Twisted78SS 10-19-2012 12:04 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Interesting pic, a few things I notice that I would not have thought to be correct coming off the factory floor,
  1. Hood hinges not painted
  2. Hood latch assy not painted
  3. Radiator hold downs not painted
  4. Clamp at the base of the steering column not painted

On the upside, I do what appears to be factory writing on the firewall..

Steve Hafner 10-19-2012 08:12 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twisted78SS (Post 5656353)
Interesting pic, a few things I notice that I would not have thought to be correct coming off the factory floor,
  1. Hood hinges not painted
  2. Hood latch assy not painted
  3. Radiator hold downs not painted
  4. Clamp at the base of the steering column not painted

On the upside, I do what appears to be factory writing on the firewall..
. . . .

I wouldn't be a bit surprised if those items had a "natural" finish.

The steering column and hood hinges especially.

I know that most of those items you mentioned would have been natural on a '70 Corvette.

Maybe someone else will post some pictures of an engine compartment when it WAS new.

The picture below, is the only other clear picture I have of the blue C-10 with 80 miles
. . . most of the others are just a screen save from the video that is no longer available.
It does show the rare "8 350" valve cover sticker that I'm going to have duplicated this winter for my truck.

. . . .

FirstOwner69 10-19-2012 10:20 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twisted78SS (Post 5656353)
Interesting pic, a few things I notice that I would not have thought to be correct coming off the factory floor,
  1. Hood hinges not painted
  2. Hood latch assy not painted
  3. Radiator hold downs not painted
  4. Clamp at the base of the steering column not painted

On the upside, I do what appears to be factory writing on the firewall..
Almost correct if my 69 was typical when new. However, other years may differ since there are many subtle year-to-year changes. My radiator hold downs were painted until I blasted them and repainted them last year. The pictures above from Steve also seem to show some black paint remnants on the passenger side hold down. The hinges and hood latch assembly (both on hood and grille support) were a gray phosphate, not truly natural. Therefore, they had a fair amount of rust resistance. Mine only had a few spots of surface rust as of last year. Also, the door strikers mounted on the cab were sort of a black phosphate... not painted.

factorystock 10-20-2012 10:53 AM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham57a (Post 5652459)

The question: What are the little details (overspray, finishes, bolt types) that you've found consistent on these old trucks from the factory??

I thought it would be helpful for someone who wants to restore a truck to look factory "correct" if there was a place to compile all of these details and maybe ways that you've found to replicate some of the original details on your truck.
Good question, however it is very hard to generalize and clump the 67-72 era together. Each year may have unique features and details that other years do not share. I suggest the best way to learn about how the factory did things for each year and model, search around for some super low mileage trucks the same year as yours and learn from them. Beware, not all trucks that claim low mileage are, but some of us seen enough of them now the difference. Here is a bonifide low mileage '68 to learn from.http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...reggie+jackson

Steve Hafner 10-27-2012 07:58 AM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Ttt . . .

WadmalawJoe 10-27-2012 09:19 AM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Do you mean to tell me that the writing on the firewall comes from the factory?

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...yengine1-1.jpg

rsavage 10-27-2012 09:54 AM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Here are a few photos of small blocks from the GN Tonawanda Engine Plant. Obviously have chrome for the Hi performance applications but it will give you an idea of pulley, fan, exhaust manifolds, brackets, etc.

http://cdn.speednik.com/image/2012/0...8-0035.jp_.jpg


http://cdn.speednik.com/image/2012/0...8-0019.jp_.jpg


http://cdn.speednik.com/image/2012/0...8-0079.jp_.jpg

Beetle 10-27-2012 10:10 AM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsavage (Post 5652888)
Don't ever remember the exhaust manifolds being painted - they were bare cast. Also, I believe they should be ram horns for our 67-72's and the wires run down the back of the block and underneath the manifolds. That photo also bothers me in another way. All the old small blocks I have had have the dipstick on the driver's side. Didn't think they started pass side until about 1980? Guess I was a little slow on the manifolds - Andy beat me to it while I was typing.
My Father's 75 Stingray has pass side dipstick, it is numbers matching.:chevy:

cericd 10-27-2012 10:18 AM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WadmalawJoe (Post 5670814)
Do you mean to tell me that the writing on the firewall comes from the factory?

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...yengine1-1.jpg
Yep it sure does.

sboris 10-27-2012 10:31 AM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Hafner (Post 5657082)
. . . .

I wouldn't be a bit surprised if those items had a "natural" finish.

The steering column and hood hinges especially.

I know that most of those items you mentioned would have been natural on a '70 Corvette.

Maybe someone else will post some pictures of an engine compartment when it WAS new.

The picture below, is the only other clear picture I have of the blue C-10 with 80 miles
. . . most of the others are just a screen save from the video that is no longer available.
It does show the rare "8 350" valve cover sticker that I'm going to have duplicated this winter for my truck.

. . . .
Wondering what is the yellow sticker on the valve cover is? Also just a little tidbit, on my 68 I uncovered factory numbers on the firewall UNDER the paint, brushed on in yellow paint on bare metal of cab. They match all the other assembly numbers found throughout.. Can't see I know, but cool.
http://i1150.photobucket.com/albums/...342ff4f518.jpg
Posted via Mobile Device

Steve Hafner 10-27-2012 10:32 AM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by WadmalawJoe (Post 5670814)
Do you mean to tell me that the writing on the firewall comes from the factory?

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...yengine1-1.jpg
. . . .

My 70 C-10's firewall has a "B" in the upper right corner, seen in the picture below for the Baltimore assembly plant.

The "635" was the job number ( or line sequence )

. . . .

rsavage 10-27-2012 10:45 AM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beetle (Post 5670858)
My Father's 75 Stingray has pass side dipstick, it is numbers matching.:chevy:
Yes Beetle - later small blocks did but all the 67-72 small blocks I have seen are on the driver's side as are alternators on our SB trucks. I thought they switched dip stick locations in 1979? I completely missed the fact that that picture posted was of a big block when I was commenting on the dipstick, exhaust manifolds etc.

WadmalawJoe 10-27-2012 12:29 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Makes me sick to my stomach for painting over all that.
Its in black and not white like everyone elses?
At least I have pictures I guess.
Posted via Mobile Device

factorystock 10-27-2012 12:31 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
3 Attachment(s)
Some factory photos

Steve Hafner 10-27-2012 02:33 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
2 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sboris (Post 5670880)
Wondering what is the yellow sticker on the valve cover is? Also just a little tidbit, on my 68 I uncovered factory numbers on the firewall UNDER the paint, brushed on in yellow paint on bare metal of cab. They match all the other assembly numbers found throughout.. Can't see I know, but cool.
http://i1150.photobucket.com/albums/...342ff4f518.jpg
Posted via Mobile Device
. . . .

The yellow sticker just describes what transmission, cab and maybe a few other things too.

I have always thought it might be so they would know what engine to pull from the "shelf" without looking at the pad on the block.

. . . .

sboris 10-27-2012 06:25 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
Cool. Great info
Posted via Mobile Device

Coley 10-27-2012 06:33 PM
Re: Factory Correct Restoration Details
 
One thing to keep in mind here about GM and their trucks in that era is that they weren't those most notorious bastions of consistency on a plant by plant basis.
So what is truly original can be disputed forever in specific areas of build methods or parts. If they had to substitute stuff or improvise methods and parts on line to keep things movin'...they would.
So what might have been painted a certain color at one plant may not have been painted at all....or the same color at another plant.
All good
Coley;)


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