67 c30 cummins swap
 

Hey guys I'm new around here. Just getting started on the motor swap in my 67. Starting to test for the fittment now. Should be a fun build.
Attachment 1326280

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Very nice! I like those wheels and the fact it is a dually all together. What trans are you going with?

Re: 67 c30 cummins swap
 

Thanks. Putting in the nv4500 trans that came out of the donor truck.

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Nice! That will make for a sweet truck. Welcome to the forum, too by the way. Has anything been done to the engine yet?

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The engine is stock with 230k miles on it. Trying to decide how I want to build it now. Not sure if I'm gonna go single or dual disk clutch then go from there.

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Does anyone make a steering bar like the one in front of the crossmember that's bent down. Would like to trim the crossmember to allow the motor to sit lower.

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What style of motor mounts are you using?

Keep up the good work. :metal::metal::metal:

We need more 2WD Cummins swaps here !

My Cab and Chassis is sitting under about 3 inches of snow right now !
:gmc2:

Re: 67 c30 cummins swap
 

South Bend Clutch makes some really nice single disc clutches that hold alot of power. DD suck if you dont need them. Alot of pressure for the pedal, sluggish shifts and tend to be in or out (not alot of slip). Don't get me wrong because I love my street dual disc in the tow rig and it has never slipped but a good single is alot nicer to drive unless you need alot of holding power. Another thing is all all the dual discs I know of take a larger input gear in the nv4500 and it is costly.

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The clutch system that I order from Six States is a Kevlar on the pressure plate side and an organic on the flywheel side! They can handle an easy 500hp and do not chatter like a stock clutch! Plus they run about $500 !

Re: 67 c30 cummins swap
 

On your steering, I'm not sure. I don't think so but I could be wrong.

Organic dual disc is the way to go for a tow rig with decent power. If you use a diaphram pressure plate with a 3250 plate load, the pedal will be nice and soft and it'll hold the power up to 550hp I believe. You can have a dual disc made with small input as well. If you need a price on one let me know. We've had a few built mainly from Valair. The Kevlar clutches are okay. But once you slip that Kevlar, it is not forgiving and usually is junk after that. Had a couple of customers find this out the hard way.

Re: 67 c30 cummins swap
 

Did some more fitting last night. Looks like the steering will be ok it's just a very tight fit.

I'm not planning to do much towing with the truck. I might pull car trailer with it a few times a year but mainly just going to be driving it around. I'd like to see it around 500hp when put together, with that in mind single or dual disk?

Re: 67 c30 cummins swap
 

For what a good single costs to hold that power, I'd just jump up to a street dual disc that is organic. Then you don't have to worry when you start to increase the power. I've fried my share of single discs and learned the hard way. :lol:

Re: 67 c30 cummins swap
 

My SBC single held way more power than it was rated at and never slipped. It was abused hard with alot more than 500HP. After breakin grabbyness was almost stock in feeling. As dieselwrencher was saying the organic street duals are the best compromise. Mine is a 3250 which is identical to the 3600 except doesn't have the SFI rating. Avoid anything kevlar and go organic or organic with metal in it. Same principal as upgraded brake pads. In my diesel trucks I do spend money on good clutches but my gassers just get cheap 12" upgrades. You are paying for a quality clutch with alot of clamping force. Avoid centerforce clutches. They use centrifical force (unless they came out with a new model) to get more pressure which is fine in a high winding mill but Cummins are brutal right of idle. As far as single vs dual I will stand behind the single unless you drive like a total idiot. You can still come off the clutch hard then dump the throttle and it will live a long life. Something has to give when you dump the clutch like a sled puller and it is going to be the weakest link. You just hope that its the cheapest part. My 5500 puts enough power to the ground that I shattered a driveshaft flange! No I do not abuse the truck as it is a tow vehicle but the clutch never missed a beat. Torque will always find the weakest link.

Re: 67 c30 cummins swap
 

Thanks for the input guys. I went with the dual disk organic clutch. Here is a pic of the upgraded shaft next to the factory
Attachment 1343922

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Got the frame painted
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Craigslist find of the week. Found this clutch pedal setup. A little bead blasting and good as new.
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Looking good.

What rear gears do you have?

Is the donor a 215hp engine?

Planning on any other nv4500 upgrades while its out?

Re: 67 c30 cummins swap
 

Thank you. The rear gears are 3.55 I believe. It's a 215 hp motor. The only upgrade I had planned for the trans was the input shaft. But is there anything else I should consider doing while it's out?

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YES! Something about a 5th gear nut, especially the early nv4500s, which you have. You'll need to do some research, I cant remember the specifics.

The 3.55 should be nice for you, especially in a 2wd. Watch that 2-3 shift.

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I'll check it out thanks.

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The cummins will hammer the 5th gear nut off. The fix is a castle nut.

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Anyone have any experience with these cheap eBay injectors?
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Stay away!

I would purchase NEW bosch 215 injectors. Factory 215's will get you close to 500hp with other mods.

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Would like to go with something a little bigger than stock. Will be adding a turbo and bigger pump at some point.

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You dont need to. That 215hp engine will support more power than the trans and chassis will handle.

500hp @ the wheels is barley leaning on it. A factory turbo w/mods will support 500hp.

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whoops

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I've got 4k gov springs to put in, grind the fuel plate, and add some timing. Other than pump, turbo, and injectors what mods are there?

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You have to have the valve springs to.

Modded hx35 or modded he351cw 35-40lbs. boost, bump the timing and playing with the plate and screws and your near 500hp.

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It depends on how crazy you want to get. On mine I'm having the intake plantium machined off and a runner style intake also larger valves from Hamilton cams. You can put a cam in it. If you have a pump some delivery valves also a pump cam. There are a lot of things you can do it just depends on how crazy you want it

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Yes it will get close to 500HP but it is really hot and turbo life is not the best. A turbo upgrade is a very smart idea around 350HP. I will bet that there will be a lot of vertical scratches in the rear cylinders from ring scuff without a turbo increase. If you start out with a 215 pump don't mess with the DVs. You already have 181's which are pretty good. Most larger DVs run hot and smoke because the fuel timing gets messed up. You want your fuel injected quick and early. This gives more power than late entry fuel along with cooler EGTs. If you want way more fuel than the turbo can use it takes about $200. Buy a good 4k GSK with valve springs and grind the fuel plate to a 100 profile. You will never ever clear it up with a stock turbo. I ran this setup on 362/475 twin setup and still had plenty of fuel. For injectors spend the money. You want quality parts here. Period! Always buy injectors bigger than you need and use the AFC and fuel plate to limit fueling. Power is easy to build and you will want more in short order!

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Starting go go back in.
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Trans crossmember
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It's looking really nice.

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That engine looks really good sitting in there. Can't wait to see more.

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so awesome!!!!

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Hahah man I don't know the last time I saw a Cummins that grime-free. Usually I see about 1/2" of soot and oil.