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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
That engine was a chevy 350, long tube headers, cam, screamin demon. He lost a valve in cylinder 7 and the pin was sliding out of cylinder 1 and dug a massive groove in the wall. Found this when I tore the engine down. Of course he tells me he thinks he blew a head gasket...
Cylinder 1 http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...311_113904.jpg And the bad cylinder... http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...304_152754.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...304_152834.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...304_152712.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...304_152908.jpg |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Stage 1 was supposed to be getting the truck up and running as my DD, but when I found all the problems with the truck, I ended up stripping the whole truck to the frame.
Stage 1 plans today: Cab repair(rust replace) Strip frame and POR-15 New suspension - Lower 4/5 with C-Notch Front Disc conversion Vintage Air(truck is non-ac) LS Conversion Sneak Peak :) It's an LM7 with 4L60e(supposed to be rebuilt to stage 2, guy was a little shady, let's hope its legit).. http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...309_164553.jpg |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Hey there neighbor! Looks like you have a full blown project on your hands! You're at the right place... Ya gotta wonder if the seller had no clue? or just another liar... "It just needs a head gasket, yeah, yeah, that's the ticket!" Really?? :lol: Any Idea on color? Looks like you gonna do it right!:metal:
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Hey back neighbor! Yeah I think he knew and was just trying to sell. There is more too, I will be posting that stuff soon.
I'm thinking of scuffing the whole truck and painting it myself some shade of black, satin or flat. The nice paint job will probably be either stage 2 or 3. |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
May I have your attention please?
May I have your attention please? Will the real Slim Shady please stand up? I repeat will the real Slim Shady please stand up? We're going to have a problem here When I bought the truck it had started to rain ever so slightly, enough the owner and my buddy weren't bothered by it. I noticed the truck was pretty decent looking, I checked out the inside of the cab, noticed there was a little water under the dash when i looked up into its insides, both sides had that, I figured it was a windshield leak, no big deal, expected from a 40+ year old truck, I can fix that. Got under the truck, everything looked real good, I noticed the PO had fixed many of the panels that normally go bad on these trucks and was pleased to see this as I wouldn't have to do this work. I knew the engine was shot, I never took his word that it was just a head gasket. Been there, got the t-shirt. So I'm thinking sweet, windshield gasket, rebuild engine, few minor fixes, up and running then I can start stage 2 and slowly build this thing into what I had pictured in my head. Wrong. I didn't know what I was looking at. Those nice new panels he worked on? Yeah they were just covers. Not only that but I was so inexperienced at this that when I removed them, there was only 1 self tapping sheet metal screw holding them on.... :Own: http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...418_182457.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...414_203555.jpg And as I start stripping away new sheet metal, it just keeps on going.... Cancer is the ugly word of the day.... http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...2_165939_1.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...2_165932_1.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...422_165945.jpg So here I go, I'm upset and I start cutting away the bad metal the next couple of days right, I'm cutting, and cutting.... http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...1_234445_1.jpg And cutting.... http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...7_202103_1.jpg And cutting some more.... http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...427_202047.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...427_202144.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...712_192451.jpg And before I realize what I have done, I have cut all the support out of the cab almost completely. So now not only do I have a ton of sheet metal to replace, grind, weld, weld and grind, grind and weld. But now I have to figure out how the heck to put it back correctly and the doors will hopefully shut...... Geeze I really suck at buying old c10's.... :waah: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
So over the past couple months, I have been doing some research and trying to figure out how the heck I am going to fix my mistakes and move forward. I started on the drivers side, bolted the door back on, got it as close to aligned as I could(I marked the doors before I removed them but didn't do much good as they were already off from PO) and took a ratchet strap and pulled the rear of the cab as close as I could to the rear of the door and then welded in some cross braces.
I also removed a big section of the dynomat where I remembered there was a water drip under the dash and yep, you guessed it, found more rust and holes. The seam had been filling up with water I guess and eventually rusted through so I sanded it all down and tried to just fill it in with my MIG. I was able to fill all the holes in on the drivers side. Seeing it like this makes me want to weld in the hole seam but I don't think I will, its getting covered back up anyways. This is basically how it sits today. http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...1_191850_1.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...731_191858.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...731_191914.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...731_191932.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...708_154309.jpg |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
I just want to say that taking off dynomat sucks big cajones, but taking off brand new dynomat that a PO used to cover up swiss cheese and you buy his bull$h!T, is a new low down mess that I dread doing to the passenger side next. The rubberized coating is not easy to remove... And my confidence is at an all time low now lol.... :waah:
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Your not alone on this. I bought a 69 a few months ago that I couldn't look at so a friend checked it out. He was so impressed that it ran that he said its great buy it, and I did. When I got it home they had riveted tin on everything and bonded over it. So don't feel bad, everybody here has had issues. You'll see some of these guys buy a truck and replace the frame then the cab or bed. Your doing a great job at rebuilding yours. When your done you know your truck will be solid.
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
I wonder if a heat gun would work?
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
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one thing at a time. That way I feel that I'm moving forward. Looks like you have all the rusty metal cut out, half the battle is done. Keep chipping man |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
You will definitely get bummed every now and then when you're doing something that's so in depth and takes this much work. That's another reason why this forum is so cool, you will learn all kinds of new tricks and ways to get past what gets you down. I love going to the build thread and catching up with all the issues that others are facing and see how they tackle it. Best of all is watching someone taste victory after so many set backs and they end up with something that they are so proud of. Hang in there and before you know it you'll be cruising with the best of them.:chevy:
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
I got to learn to weld after I bought my "rust free" truck too. It's time consuming and frustrating at times, but you'll know it's solid by the time you're done. Sorry the guy burned you like that. People have real big cojones pulling this especially when you know where they live.
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Update:
So I took a break from body work for a while so I could do more research on how I'm going to fix the cab after I screwed up and cut the supports and floor out. Basically I have no reference to use on the floor I cut out. Sucks. I will figure something out. In the mean time, brown truck has been delivering for a couple weeks! http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...904_173647.jpg I pulled the trigger and purchased some mucho needed suspension parts. :metal: I decided on the brothers trucks ultimate drop kit with disc brake conversion. It's a full kit with custom 4 1/2 front, 5 1/2 rear drop. It comes with a C-Notch so I I can still retain full suspension travel but it allows me to keep the bed floor in stock location since the drop isn't too dramatic. I hope it's going to get me low enough where I want. I still want to use the truck to haul items and maybe tow a light trailer. I also picked up all the rest of suspension parts it didn't include from rockauto. Got all Moog. tie rods, control arm bushings, rods, ball joints, steering gear, pitman, etc. http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...830_185906.jpg I got a replacement stock 4 turn steering gear. But I just finished reading gringoloco's build thread how to ruin a c10. He did the same thing and then ended up getting a redhead 3.5 quick ratio steering gear and stating how much he liked it. Now I'm not going to be running this truck at the track or road racing but I like a sport feel and intend on later in stage 3 upgrading again perhaps. So now I'm at a cross roads on whether or not to send this steering gear back and get the QR or just keep this one... :confused: http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...830_185938.jpg |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Other progress.
I tore the frame down, removed all suspension parts, got it ready for grinding/wire wheel treatment. I plan to POR-15 the whole frame and suspension components so I wasn't worried about being perfect, but I went pretty far anyways and once could argue a little more work and it could be primed and painted, or taken out for powder. But I plan on making this my DD so its getting semi-gloss black POR. Now I have read several times for other vehicles I worked on and also on this forum as well that this is one time you can benefit from spending the money to have it sand blasted and powder coated but of course I went the cheap route and decided to do the work myself. I'm here to tell you, the work it takes to clean a frame, and then be happy with not being able to get in all the nooks and cranny's, all the dust and grime, all the ear blistering noise and vibrations, all the headache and back breaking work being bent over for hours, I WISH I WOULD HAVE LISTENED!!! But here I am, did it, and it was cheaper in cost, but not in labor and time away from family... She is ready for a c-notch :metal:, then its POR-15 time... http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...414_151253.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...414_151313.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...824_193607.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...824_193620.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...824_193554.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...826_165623.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...826_165656.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...1490265209.jpg |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
I feel your pain of the never ending assault of rust repair.. I'm on my 3rd cab and quickly found out I would have been better off staying with the original one I had.. lesson learned!! Keep your head up, atleast you know itll be done correctly this time!!!
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Weather has been bad lately, finally got a good day to put some work into the C10... :sumo:
I am learning how to weld as I go, this is really my first time using a MIG/Gas setup and doing body panels on a vehicle. So I know my learning curve is going to be slow. But man I didn't realize how hard I was going to have to work today.... I figured I would do the drivers side kick panel / footwell piece today and have some time to clean the garage afterwards... Boy was I wrong... This thing kicked my aZZ... It was all inexperience. Basically I did a pretty good job of cutting my replacement panel just right to fit. Got all the e-coat sanded so I thought. Forgot the back side where the it meets the pillar. Between that and the weld through primer I had to redo the welds on this panel so many times I lost count. I finished up the floor first filling in all the bad spots, ground them down, kept that up till I was happy. Then I hit it with some weld through primer I picked up from Napa. I don't know if it was too thick or if this stuff isn't any good, but I could not get penetration to save my life. Bot the e-coat and weld through primer had to be removed before I could get penetration. I thought this stuff was weld able???? http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...930_130714.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...930_130739.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...930_141159.jpg I started using these clamps, they are pretty easy to use and work well to hold two piece together for a but weld. Harbor Freight. http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...930_141952.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...930_141958.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...930_142008.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...930_142017.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...930_142021.jpg BOING!!!! Here was the first side of the panel I wasn't getting penetration. Had to take the weld through primer off the back side. But this really ended up being the fact I was inexperienced and the original metal was much thicker than the new piece. I didn't have the welder up high enough to penetrate. http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...930_154138.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...930_154144.jpg Finally got it done, I think it took me around 4-5 hours to do this panel. I am such a noob it hurt lol.... :waah: It was because of the tight spots(couldn't get tools to fit to grind very easily and took twice a long as it should) and no penetration. Worst side was the back side of the kick panel right in the middle, I forgot to remove the e-coat and I already had two side of the panel burned in. So I kept grinding my welds out over and over and turning up the welder till it got to 9 on the dial... 10 is the highest it goes.... Lesson learned. Remove the e-coat! http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...930_192732.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...930_192749.jpg You can see here on the back side, I ended up having to remove the e-coat best I could on the side of the panel and ran a bunch of beads down the side to get the best penetration. I could not for the life of me get the e-coat sanded off behind the holes I drilled for a spot weld so I just cranked up the juice on the welder and let her sit and burn filling up the hole. After maybe 3-4 time of doing this I think I got good penetration but I was not going to trust it so I went down the side too :) http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...930_214832.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...930_214853.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...930_214902.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...930_214916.jpg |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Based on what I had to go through I would say that you are a quick learner. You have the basic understanding to know what’s right and what’s not. Just adapt and try something different, sheesh...sounds like something my dad would say. Looks like good work to me my friend!:metal:
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Finally got a chance to work on the truck again. Been traveling and working on my "honey do" list :sumo:
Rained hard today so I was forced inside and so I decided to start working on my drivers side floor board. I started fitting and panels and found that the new kick panel I burned in last time was interfering with the floor panel replacement part. I decided to notch it. It's not pretty, but it works. http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...013_172840.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...013_172850.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...013_172912.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...013_175226.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...013_175552.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...013_175605.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...013_181006.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...013_181015.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...013_182006.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...013_185150.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...013_185158.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...013_185208.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...013_185213.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...013_185252.jpg I'm close to getting the panel burned in. Should be able to finish this tomorrow. This panel is definitely not perfect, needs more work in the firewall area still... :smoke: http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...013_185353.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...013_185403.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...013_185409.jpg |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
LoL, I'm definitely a newb welder.... It's a good thing I can grind them down :lol:
I was able to finish burning in the rest of the floor pan piece. Almost done. I have a question though to those better welders out there. I look at the bottom side of my welds and not every weld has filled in the gap between the butt welds. Looks good on top, but the weld didn't fill in everywhere. Is this ok or do I need to weld those spots again from the bottom to fill in the gap? And if I should weld from the bottom, its rough welds so will another weld from the bottom side fill in the rough ok or will there be gaps between the 2 welds(top first, bottom second) which might create a space where moisture could be trapped and rust from inside out? There is some weld in those gaps obviously as I ground down the welds and I have a nice smooth surface with no holes. Here are some pics. This is the piece I made to fill in the space I had when I cut out the old pan that was rusted and the new piece didn't fill. http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...015_183230.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...015_194625.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...015_194637.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...015_194657.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...015_194730.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...015_194813.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...015_194825.jpg I still have a little work left to do, but its close... I'm ready to fit the door and burn in the rocker soon. :smoke: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
It sure looks like you are doing a pretty good job.
You were asking about welding and I'm no expert, but I have some pretty good experience welding sheet metal and light duty stuff with MIG. It looks like some of your welds were not 'hot' enough. Or they were not penetrating enough. I saw the picture of your welder above and tried to look it up. Is it the Lotos MIG 140 with your giant bottle of Argon or Argon/CO2? Have any of your welds burned through? Or any problem burning through when you are trying to fill gaps? If not...I would turn it up and see what happens. You did a hell of a job wire wheeling that frame. I would have given up on that. I took most of my pieces to get sand blasted. |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
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Thanks man, the frame was a back breaking, long, dirty job and I would never suggest doing this again unless your frame is already pretty clean... I read over and over how ugly of a job it is and I still ignored that advice to sandblast and tried saving money. :crazy: But honestly I would suggest sandblasting and powder coating/painting instead. Yes that is a Lotos MIG 140, borrowed from my neighbor, and he got that giant bottle filled for like $40. He always finds deals like that... So my welds. I used the recommended settings and turned the heat up a little bit when I was testing. Seems like if I turn it up anymore it just wants to burn through the old sheet metal and even sometimes the new sheet metal. I really don't know what I'm doing except what I have researched. Eastwood has some nice video tutorials on welding sheet metal but I still feel like I need help. And if my welds are cold, does that mean I have to cut my new panels off and do them again??? I'm skeered of this answer.... :eek: |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
PS: When I watched the videos from eastwood, the guy was using the eastwood 135? and he was saying he likes to turn the welder almost all the way up on the heat setting and when he welds I noticed he would just "tap" the gun trigger for each weld. I was doing that too when I started but my uncle was saying I shouldn't have to do this. But I think this eastwood guy method makes a nice flat puddle but when I transferred this method to my old truck sheet metal, I kept burning through in some weak spots and such so I went back to the welder table settings.
I also feel like I don't know how to aim the welding rod. Seems like I am supposed to hold the gun at an angle and hit the side of one of the panels I am butt welding and then move the gun upright to get the puddle inside the gap to fill? I try that I usually end up burning through. But if I get a blob of weld started somewhere, I usually just use that to aim at from there on so I don't burn through, its my starting point I guess you could say. But I'm pretty sure I was holding the gun at an angle too much so my welds weren't filling up the gap, or I wasn't moving my puddle down into the gap or something. And if I use the high heat quick button trick, there is almost no time to move a puddle that way... Ugh. So many questions I have.... |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
You couldn't pay me to cut that off. Your welds are fine. I just thought it might help explain why the back side was not filled.
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Howdy neighbor, I live in Denton.
I think you are doing a fine job! Nice project! |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
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I took a break from sheet metal work and started working on the frame again. Rain finally quit so I've had some 65-70 degree weather to work in and its been nice. I cut and installed my new c-notches from brothers trucks. For stage 1 I am leaving them bolted in. I don't have a welder that can weld that thick of steel. At least I don't think that 140 can weld the frame.... But I plan on welding it later on when I strengthen the frame a little as well in stage 2 of my build. The c-notches took some time, but overall not a hard project. I simply made a cardboard template of the c-notch face, lined them up, traced the notch and got to cutting. I used a mix of cutting wheels and sawzaw. Rounded the edges for strength, shot them with some black epoxy, drilled the holes with a step bit, bolted them in. Done. :smoke: Here is the kit out of the box. Comes with everything needed to install. The metal is much thicker than factory frame so it makes me feel ok about reinforcement and rigidity. It's a CPP C-Notch kit, but from Brothers Trucks... http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...020_132141.jpg A few shots of the before frame. I got the idea to use two engine stands for a rotisserie from another member. I set it up this way for POR-15. But I was able to support the frame this high while I cut the c-notches. They need to be supported so that during installation you don't bend the frame at the weak point. I also did one side at a time which I'm sure also helped that factor. http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...020_132223.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vj...=w1069-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ro...k=w601-h801-no Marked for cutting. http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...020_162802.jpg Rounded the edges after cut, shot the frame and the new c-notch with a little black epoxy for rust protection and then bolted her in. I learned that you can pretty much line up the holes at the bottom of the frame(these existing frame holes get re-used with the notches) making it easier to install in the correct position. It's almost fool proof ;) http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...020_180110.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...020_180138.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...020_180153.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...020_183334.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...020_183349.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...020_183401.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...020_183413.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...020_183825.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...020_184016.jpg Few final shots... http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...020_184121.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...021_161534.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...021_161543.jpg . |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Great pictures of good work. Do you plan to weld in the c-notch? I haven't welded mine yet but plan to, after I think I am low enough. If I dont think it is low enough for my liking I might do a small step notch, so I figure I'll wait so I dont ruin a sell-able part. Hows the sheet metal work going?
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
I couldn't quit there of course. I went ahead and cleaned up the frame, prepped it, and brushed on some POR-15. Check out this really cool picture. I use my google pixel 2 XL phone to take all my pictures. I also use google photos which has this cool feature where some pics it will auto fix them and then alert you asking if you want to save the photo. It's trying to get you to use their apps to modify pics of course but I like the features so I do use that app. Anyways, I thought this picture it fixed up looked really cool with a crazy Texas sky in the background. :cool:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/de...=w1069-h801-no I can't tell you how ingenious the idea was to make a rotisserie out of engine stands as it make painting the frame SO MUCH EASIER. Thanks to BRUCE88 for that idea you rock sir. :metal: So again, I wire wheeled the whole frame. Yeah I saved time, but it was a hard dirty job. Sandblasting would have been the better and faster way to go. But I saved a little cash so whatever. So Sunday night after the c-notches I cleaned up the frame a little more with a wire brush, then blew off the dust. I sprayed on the POR-15 metal prep with a 1 gallon weed sprayer. Kept doing that for 30 minutes keeping the frame wet. That stuff ate most of the rust and etched the metal turning it almost white like a calcium look. I rinsed it off with a water hose and put the frame inside the garage for the night. Monday night I got home from work and brushed on the first coat of POR. I used semi-gloss black. That stuff is awesome. It really goes a long way with just a little bit of product. Stuffed it back in the garage. Then tonight(Tuesday), after work I pulled it out of the garage again, scuffed the whole frame with a red scotch bright, and gave it a second coat. I did 2 coats with a single quart of POR-15 and still had just a little bit left over. I did my research on this stuff and ended up buying 2 quarts of POR semi-gloss black, and also bought a pint of the POR top coat with UV protectant for my springs and other parts I paint that may see a little sunlight. But they all said get 2 quarts. Well i did it with one quart. But I think I may need the second quart still to do my a-arms, trailing arms, etc so I'm not sending that last quart back... Some pics here. This is after the first coat. I will have more pics of final second coat later when I start putting together the rest of the suspension parts and get her back on her own wheels! But the second coat doesn't look much different than the first coat. This stuff is thick looking when it dries. And it almost looks like a powder coat. :sumo: http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...022_185208.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...022_185213.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...022_185230.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...022_185250.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...022_185256.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...022_204318.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...022_205020.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...022_205041.jpg http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...022_205049.jpg . |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
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Yeah in stage 2 I plan to box in the frame in a few select areas and when i do that I will get me a 220 volt welder so I can weld on the frame. I just don't trust my current welder to weld the frame. Experience bing the biggest factor. The Vulcan 140 might be able to do it, but I will wait. |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Progress Update: Still moving along with suspension.
Got the control arms and trailing arms skinned and painted. Seems like this process takes forever. Keep finding parts that need sanding, cleaning, POR... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WG...=w1069-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/L0...M=w601-h801-no After the POR metal prep: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/So...=w1069-h801-no Had to repair one of the trailing arms. The Vulcan 140 seemed to weld this up fine with the heat just right. Used other frame pieces I cut off to get the welder settings right. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fR...=w1069-h801-no |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Assembly of new MOOG suspension parts. Got the axle cleaned up and POR15.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...=w1069-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/x0...=w1069-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hM...=w1069-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ls...=w1069-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_7...L=w601-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k8...m=w601-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bu...w=w601-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Aq...=w1069-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gd...N=w601-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QJ...G=w601-h801-no . |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Here are a bunch of pics of more suspension parts being installed. Pretty standard. Everything installed as designed. MOOG suspension parts and Brothers Trucks.
Let me know if you guys can see the pics, using a new way to post. These new spindles, rotors, calipers, pads all came assembled and ready to bold on. I removed the calipers and painted everything first then installed. 2.5" drop spindles. In my last post those springs are 2" drop springs all apart of the brothers kit. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4c...5=w601-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hm...E=w601-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jo...=w1069-h801-no Converted from drum to disc up front. Boy are they tight in those 15" rims, whew... :thumbs: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F...Z=w601-h801-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9I...m=w601-h801-no Here are a few pics of the rear. 2" lowering blocks, 3.5" lowering springs. Or is it 4" lowering springs and 1.5" blocks.... I can't remember... The c-notches weren't necessary to just drive but if I ever load the truck up(which I plan to use as a daily and it may haul dirt a couple times) the notch allows for full travel. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/t0...a=w601-h801-no I'm going to have to cut some of those threads off, they are pretty long. I suppose the new ubolts are universal for different size blocks. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mr...v=w601-h801-no |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
New steering gear, came from rock-auto, got a heavy duty unit instead of standard. Also upgrading to power steering with the new LS going in. I replaced all the tie-rods, and their components as well. Only thing original is the long steering rod and the idler arm bracket.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W3...L=w618-h823-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C6...=w1098-h823-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1A...=w1098-h823-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/r8...h=w618-h823-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Qz...Z=w618-h823-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xQ...=w1098-h823-no New trailing arm bushings, these were not easy to replace until i figured out the proper tools to use... :sumo: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Wj...=w1098-h823-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GD..._=w618-h823-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Cx...=w1098-h823-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vt...=w1098-h823-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/h8...U=w618-h823-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q...=w1098-h823-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gR...=w1098-h823-no My posts are very pic heavy, I always like pictures to reference :) |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
More progress.
Front and rear sway bars installed. Brothers kit. Rear shock relocation brackets installed. CPP via the Brothers kit. New drop shocks installed on all 4. Brothers kit. Having help from a buddy would have made the job a lot easier but I managed. A neighbor came over and helped me with the front. Basically you just assemble the whole thing. Mock it up. Mark your holes. Drill. Install. But of course I got upgraded sway bar up front, and rear never existed. So the front stock sway bar brackets had to be removed as they didn't work anymore. So that meant cross cutting the rivet heads, air hammer to pop the rivets out, then expanding the holes with a step bit for the new bolts, and all over my new POR15 job. Not that I was too worried about that but wish I mocked it up before I painted.... Same goes for the rear shock relocator brackets. Wish i knew i needed those before I painted. So I ended up using some VHT gloss black enamel(matches the POR15 pretty good) on the holes I cut. The rear shock re-locator brackets were same, pop the rivets out, expand holes, paint for rust. Not much to them really. Rear shock locator bracket next to the old bracket. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vg...g=w546-h970-no Lower shock relocator bracket next to original: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mm...K=w546-h970-no Installed: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EJ...=w1724-h970-no I didn't like the bolts that came in the relocator kit for the lower shock mount. It was just a bolt. So I bought 1 new lower shock bolt and reused one of the original ones still in good shape. They seemed to fit and setup the angles a lot better. Also had to enlarge the bracket hole to accept the new bolt. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6k...Z=w546-h970-no When it came to the rear sway bar install, the kit came with these brackets to attach the poly mount. It mounts under the trailing arms. Well the dang holes didn't line up right to be on one side of the trailing arm nor did they line up right to put one hole on one side of the arm and the other hole on the opposite side. So I found a solution. I enlarged the holes so the bolt had enough room to slide apart to get the bolts installed on opposite sides of the trailing arms. Used a double washer deal to keep the bolt from sliding through the enlarged holes. The nuts on top of the trailing arm lips was far enough away I could get a wrench on the nuts too. I had to use the "small space" washers too, worked out good. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Qi...=w1724-h971-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xo...=w1724-h970-no And this is the only pic I got of the front sway bar. Sorry guys, spoiler alert, sneak peak of my next post coming soon... :smoke: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zv...G=w728-h970-no |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
so cool, I love the driveway builds and the LS.. keep up the great work
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Thanks to 70shortfleet I have a beautifully rebuilt auto steering column. Excellent quality and can't wait to install..!!! :metal:
I'm pretty tall for this truck so he shortened it 2 inches for me. Added cruise control for my LS swap. Tilt column. And painted it gloss black :chevy: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/On...E=w690-h920-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3o...=w1227-h920-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JA...2=w690-h920-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ic...=w1227-h920-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QQ...=w1227-h920-no |
Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Cab and hood went off to blaster. I just couldn't see my trying to use a wire wheel in all those crevices to get all the seam sealer out and trying to get everything clean for paint. Too many different nooks and crannies, angles and hard to reach areas... Sand blasting hit the wallet pretty hard but well worth it for the cab IMO.
I did the hood since it was in need of rust repair as well and sanding the bottom of that hood looked daunting. I may have him do the doors and other parts too later but everything else is pretty easy to sand down easily myself I think. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k0...=w1292-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2Y...=w1292-h970-no And I got new guns to shoot paint myself... Grabbed from Summit. 3 tips, 1.8, 1.5, and 1.3 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zf...=w1292-h970-no |
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