Battery charging issues
 

Hello all, took the 49 6 volt out this past weekend because had some work to be done. I was able to start up with a little either and choke. Once started I moved her out of the garage. After all warmed up I shut the engine off. When I went to restart the engine it wouldn't start. Starter turning slightly then dead. The battery is brand new and I even had it tested. So I put the charger/starter on the battery and it started right up. I took it for a ride and when I stopped the truck I shut it off. Went to restart it and again like the battery was dead. So I hooked jumper cables from a 12 volt car and it started right up. What are my next steps? How do I test the generator and voltage regulator? Thanks

Re: Battery charging issues
 

You did step one= have the battery tested.
If the truck was sitting and not started and you started it by either hooking a charger or jumper cables to it you first have to check and see if the battery is actually fully charged or drained when you go to start it when it is cold.

First I would clean all of the battery cable connections and have clean bare shiny metal under every connection. That means SCRAPE the spots where the ground cables contact the block or frame to CLEAN BARE SHINY METAL. I've gone out and checked three or four just got it together and now it doesn't want to crank good vehicles and every time the issue was because the paint was insulating the ground strap from the block. I actually had one guy cry and fuss when I pulled out my knife and scraped the paint off from under the ground cable and put the cable back on. The car started right up though.

Then get out your multimeter and fire the truck up and check the voltage at the battery, Remember generators don't charge much at an idle and you need to speed the engine up a bit to see if it is charging.

Click on section 12 http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...ruck/index.htm Then you can either read page by page though how the charging system works or go to page 12-8 where the trouble shooting and testing part starts and continues for several pages. I'd read start to finish just to learn how the system works. They wrote the old manuals in very basic language and the good thing is that they didn't assume that the mechanic working on the trucks had any experience. It is almost as basic as the how to repair your VW for idiots book that came out in the 70's.

The contact points in the regulator can arc and stick just like ignition points. You can clean the contacts up with a point file or snag a small emery board and use it.

If the generator hasn't been freshly rebuilt the brushes may be worn down and need replacement. They aren't hard to freshen up but can be a bit of a challenge the first time or two a guy does one. The fun being figuring out how to get the brushes to slip back over the commutator of the armature.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

if you fully charge the battery and you say it starts right up,
it should be able to start and run for a few times and miles without needing charged again
i suspect a draw on the battery

it's been a while since i worked on a generator
i'd start by polarizing the generator again
you should know how to polarize a generator since you own one
if not http://starautoelectric.com/instruct...ing-generator/

if that doesn't work, time to pull it apart and check the brushes, easy peasy
then you move on to the regulator, but check those first
doesn't hurt to check out and maybe continuity check a few wires

Re: Battery charging issues
 

Thanks, reading the manual and going through the steps. I'm confident I will find the root cause and fix it. Just sucks when you need the truck and it ****s the bed. What are your opinions on battery tenders?

Re: Battery charging issues
 

Do you have anything electronic in that truck? Clock? New radio? Are you using a solid state voltage regulator or a mechanical points type? If there's nothing drawing power the battery should remain charged for a *long* time. My Plymouth sits through the entire winter without a charge and the four year old battery will usually crank the engine enough for it to fire off with starting fluid! Some simple checks include visually looking at the top of the battery for water/acid which can discharge the battery across the terminals, and watching for sparks when reconnecting the battery cables. If you have sparks, confirm nothing is switched on then suspect stuck points in the regulator as previously mentioned. If the points are stuck the generator may be trying to turn the engine and will get warm to the touch.

One other thing to note is that charging voltage is important with old or reproduction lead-acid batteries. Generator systems with mechanical regulators tended to need tweaking to match the type of driving the vehicle sees most. If you do more highway driving you would set the regulator for voltage on the lower end of the scale to prevent the electrolyte from getting too warm and evaporating out of the battery where it will condense on the top of the battery. If you find the battery is wet then suspect the charge voltage is climbing too high. Clean the battery then begin testing.

Keep the manual handy!

Also, if you'd like to make some modifications to your system which can be hidden from sight, there are a number of solutions to put a solid state regulator into the system. It might be worth it to convert...

Re: Battery charging issues
 

Haha, my procedure is parts replacement, in order of either 1) most likely item to fail, or 2) cheapest item. Inefficient and expensive? Maybe, but it's saved me a ton of time testing and troubleshooting!

Re: Battery charging issues
 

It's a common strategy I see. It's probably second to "diagnosis by consensus" where you ask a bunch of people or a large group to solve the problem then work from most common answer to least common.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

Anyone know where to get a solid state 6v voltage regulator that looks OE for a 54 3100?

Re: Battery charging issues
 

58truk has the alarm system, mostly for the remote entry, lack of door handles
it will kill the battery in a week if i don't drive it or plug it in
i swear by the harbor fright trickle charger and plug truk in all salt season
every spring truk is charged and ready to go with the turn of the key :metal:
this is my 2nd one in 12 years, i think a bad battery caused the last one to burn out at 5 years

right now it's $10 and well worth that, but hf puts it on sale for $5 often

harborfreight.com/automatic-battery-float-charger


https://shop.harborfreight.com/media...4/64284_W3.jpg

i bought an official battery tender many years ago on sale $30 for when this hf unit burns out

Re: Battery charging issues
 

I've never used these folks but they do show what you're asking about.

https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/ite...Regulators.htm

Re: Battery charging issues
 

The truck is all original. No radio. Original wipers work fine not electric.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

You do have a multi meter or volt meter?
With a meter set on DC volts connected to the battery you should show about 7.1 volts with the engine speeded up a bit. Generators normally do not charge very much at an idle and some don't charge at all until you get the rpm up.

As far as that goes, if the needle on the ammeter shows charge when you are going down the road that should be good and move on to the next thing.

Next thing: Like going to the Indian health medical clinic that I go to quite often when trouble shooting the first issue you think of is what you look for all day long and you miss the reall issue.
Simply:

Does it show a charge on the ammeter or the multimter you connect to the battery when you rev the engine up a a bit Yes--- NO _______

Have you had the battery tested. I don't give a rip if you bought it this morning if you have issues has the battery been tested?

What is the condition of the starter? The starter may be dragging or have worn brushes. Brushes, bushings and or bearings for the starter don't cost much and aren't that hard to change.

What size are the battery cables? Those skinny cables sold at Autozne or O'Reilly's or other parts houses won't carry the amps that 6 volts is able to push very easy. When I was teaching autoshop I used to use an old Mopar training film to teach Volts, amps and Ohms. This was from the early 50's but it explained it in very basic down to earth terms. Think water pump and water pipe.hose. You can push a pretty good volume of water though a 3/4 inch pipe and hose with a small pump but the same small pump won't move near as much water though 1/2 inch pipe and hose. The pressure at the pump will be good but the flow is restricted. That is why you need larger cables with 6 volts than 12 volts. you don't have the pressure to push the amps though skinny cable.

Test and check before spending money. when it cranks slow get out and start feeling cables and see if one is hot to the touch. That means extra resistance an you need to trace the resistance down.

Last, don't be afraid to ask questions. That includes sending me or one of the others you feel has the right answer a pm if you feel the need.,

Re: Battery charging issues
 

So the positive cable should never feel warm?

Re: Battery charging issues
 

no. maybe a little after a long crank, but warm is usually a sign of bad connection or under sized cable
if you have an issue, you should start a new thread

Re: Battery charging issues
 

The positive cable can feel real hot and even burn up if the resistance issue is on that side going to the starter or what ever else you are having an issue with.

in 58 years of working on cars and trucks I have far more bad connection issues on the ground side than the hot side. Guys usually pay very close attention to connecting the hot side from cable end to the starter. They often ten to be lax on the ground side.

If the "hot" cable is hot that usually means that what ever you have an issue with be it starter or light or what not is defective in one way or another. I say HOT side simply because we do have rigs with a positive ground electrical system including 6 volt GMC Trucks.

Still it is never assume, in that you always need to inspect and test rather than assume.

This is a case of that. Just because the truck fires up at home and then doesn't want to crank 30 minutes and three miles later doesn't mean it isn't charging, The starter could have bad bushings and be dragging. The battery may be marginal and won't crank the now heated up with engine heat starter. There may be a resistance in a connection.

I fought my 77 for a long time and even replaced the starter when it wouldn't crank when hot and finally changed battery cables to larger diameter cables to fix it. The skinny cables wouldn't carry enough amps to crank it over good.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

UPDATE, I was able to get to working on the 49. Detached all battery cable connections, straps and cleaned all surfaces with wire brush and sand paper. Charged the battery and the truck started up. I shut it down as I did before then it started right up hot. I di this several more times waiting longer between periods of rest. Next is the over night test.

During my research the number on recommendation was to clean everything and it seemed to work, however I also read lots of recommendations to update the battery cables to 00 Gauge. Is this something you guys think I should do? Right now the hot to the starter is 2 Gauge. Thanks for help everybody.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

Never mind, I went out and tried starting her and no go. It's like a dead battery now.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

Now I disconnected the battery terminals from truck and recharged the battery to 100%. I will reconnect the battery to the truck tomorrow to see if it's dead. If so I will return the battery for a new one. If the battery holds the charge then it must be something drawing it down on the truck. However the only draw would be from the key switch. It has nothing else drawing on battery that I know of.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

Is the top of the battery clean and dry? A dirty battery top with a bit of moisture can cause a parasitic drain across the top of the battery. You can check that with a volt meter by hooking the meter to one post and using the other lead to touch around on the battery top to see if you get a reading.

Do you have a return spring on the brake pedal that pulls it up tight against the foot board and holds the stop light switch in the off position? If not the pedal may be dropping down and turning the brake lights on without your knowing it. That can happen pretty easily if the brakes aren't adjusted up good.

You for sure need to change to the larger cables or at least the correct diameter cables.

Did you actually check to see if the generator is charging the battery?

Most rigs with a good battery can be drive a few miles and started several times without draining the battery down so they won't start. I've been around plenty of dirt track cars that didn't have any generator or alternator on them at all. Just a battery that they charged before they went to the races on Friday night and they raced all night with it.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

check and clean all connections, like you did already. ensure you lay hands on ALL connections, positive and negative. everywhere. battery, starter, fuse block, grounds, ign switch, starter and the "stepon" starter switch, dah dee dah.
do a voltage check before and after start up. after start up should be more than before start up. you gotta rev it up to get the generator working while you do this because the generator doesn't charge a lot at idle. if you generally start it and let it idle for extended periods to "keep things lubed up" then the battery may not be getting charged well and that can be a problem right there.
if your battery was dead for a bit or low on acid it may have sulfated the plates which means there is a coating on the plates so the chemical reaction can't happen on that area. charge the battery with a fast charge to help break that sulfate off if that is the case. the adverae affect here is that stuff that breaks off the plates becomes sludge below the plates, which can move around while driving and end up shorting out the plates in that cell. have the battery load tested. ensure it is fully charged and then allowed to sit and rest for a bit and then apply a load of 1/2 the cold cranking amps for 15 seconds -the voltage would not drop past 5 volts. use a carbon pile tester if you have one available or check around at starter alternator generator shops to see who may know something other than what google says on their phone. most auto supply shops have a digital unit that is calibrated for 12 volt batteries so the school kid behind the counter will likely say your battery is toast no matter what.
next check the starter draw. you will need a few electrical tools to do this like an amp meter and how to hook it up. an amp meter with a pick up probe clamp that wraps around the battery cable to the starter would be good, then you will get actual starter draw. disconnect the coil wire high tension lead and ground it so the engine won't start. this probe clamp can also be used to check the amperage the battery is receiving when the engine is running by clamping the probe around the battery positive cable. if you have one of those carbon pile testers you can start the engine and apply a load using the carbon pile to see what the generator is putting out through the amp probe. google sun AVR meter for the old fashioned unit. usually the AVR will say what the amp load is as you crank down the carbon pile and when you see the voltage drop that will be the generator output at that rpm.
check the battery cable to the starter, do a voltage drop test to ensure the cable isn't becoming a big resistor. if the cable is getting warm then there is resistance somewhere near the warm spot or else the cable is undersized or the starter draw is more than the cable was rated for. if you have one or several of those braided ground cables you may also want to check that for a voltage drop. whatever voltage or amperage passes through the pos cable also has to pass through the neg cable or ground system. check the shielded/insulated cables for lumps along their length as those lumps are likely corrosion inside the cable which is a resistance. a damaged cable can have corrosion around a break in the insulation wrapping. crimped on termi9nals also are a great spot for corrosion inside the crimp or down the cable shielding if there is no seal on the insulation at the end of the cable.
if you boost with 12v on a 6v system you may cause damage to other things in the system that don't really like to be over voltaged.
unless you are tied to a 6v system you could upgrade to a 12v system and use the original 6v starter as long as the engine tune up is good so the starter doesn't have to be cranked for longer periods. the old 6v starters will handle 12v really well. google the swap procedure for what it takes if you are interested. 12v alternator will charge well at idle and the 12v will spin the 6v starter slightly faster than 6v did so the engine may even fire up quicker. just a thought. battery, alternator and electrical plug, all bulbs, horns, and a guage resistor set up would be required. 12v radio as well if you have one or at least a voltage drop system of some sort.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

I just went out and attached the battery and she started after after a couple tries, but the battery seemed strong and did not go dead over night.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

When you connected the battery was there a little spark when you touched the cable to the post? If so you have a draw on the system somewhere.
Just wanna say, also, be carefull doing battery connections after charging a battery. There are flammable gasses given off when charging which collect in the air space above the acid and eventually self vent. a spark generated from connecting a cables could cause those contained gases to blow the lid off the battery right in your face. Some will say that is few and far between, like I used to say until it happened to me. I was lucky to have a friend with me and I was close to a garden hose.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

OK now when you put the volt meter on it and check it while running how many volts does it show?

Re: Battery charging issues
 

OK, I will not leave charger in cab anymore. I get no spark and I tested with key in on pos and it did the spark thing. When I just went out and connected the battery it wanted to start but it's not turning over like I'm use to. It wants to start but won't. Once I get it running I will check with Volt meter.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

OK, I think I found the short in the Cab light. I removed the light completely from the truck and been test starting without same issue. SO I'll give it one more day before I take it out for errands.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

also check your state of tune. plugs, cap, rotor, points, condenser, fuel filter, fuel age, carb and choke adjustments as well as what's in the float bowl, valve adjustments, compression readings dry and wet etc etc. if the engine cranks slow it may also flood easily and not be bringing the compression up to spec like a faster cranking engine might.
as mentioned earlier, maybe check the voltage regulator points as well. hitting it with 12v may not have been in it's best interest, so to say, as well as any other 6v items in the system. gauges, sending units etc.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

Its starting right up now with cab light pulled.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

It sounds like the light must have had pretty much a dead short in it. I'd have thought the wire would have burned up before the battery went dead though.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

I can't upload a photo but NAPA has a great charger/maintainer for around $35 that can be used for 6v or 12v systems. I keep mine on the batteries throughout the winter.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

In conclusion, it was a short in the cab down light. I replaced the spark plugs as well and it made a huge difference starting the truck. The tips of each plug were completely caked in black when removed. Now she starts wicked easy. :)

Re: Battery charging issues
 

Guys, specifically Mr48Chev, when I put the multimeter on battery (dc) while its running it reads 6.2. Is this good or bad? Thanks

Re: Battery charging issues
 

what is the voltage with no engine running?
max voltage would be about 6.9, after that the battery starts to boil off the water.
did you do the test with engine revved up or idling?
I would look for an increase in voltage from non running to running. give it a few minutes to make up for the juice it used to turn the starter when starting, then run the test. you could try turning on the accessories like lights and heater and see if it keeps up.
if you disconnect the battery from the system then you may need to polarize the generator.
here is a delco generator on a tractor where he shows how he did the reg wiring and polarizing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CRtUlgIgyU

here is a vid showing the delco gen on a tractor where she shows how to test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=II-6nOw28J8
a generator is a generator. there is a field connection and an armature connection.
you may wanna check the brushes for length and tension against the armature and also the armature to see how the contact surface looks. also the contact points in the regulator to see how they look. poor connections at either will result in inconsistent or non existent charging. a generator shop could put the thing on a bench and test it but should also have the regulator so they can set the thing up for proper output. they would also put the armature on the "growler" to test for opens or grounds in the wiring on the armature but that requires disassembly so gonna cost you cashola. at that point it turns into a rebuild usually. maybe an upgrade to a 12v alternator if that is the case as you would get reliable output. also check and ensure there is a good positive and negative connections from the battery to the generator and volt regulator. that means good body grounds and a good engine ground as well as battery terminals and cabling. I have seen old cabling cause voltage drops which will affect the whole system.

here is a vid showing some generator explanations and testing you can do yourself. english car site but a generator is a generator
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjLW_eb3D-c

Re: Battery charging issues
 

Nice read. I have the same problem as Pat. It starts right up, but shut it down, cranking is slightly slower and no start. There is no drain on battery after sitting for days. I have starter, generator, and carb rebuilt. I bought a thick negative ground wire. Red positive is original with truck as well as grounding strap. All were cleaned with wire brush. One odd thing, maybe unrelated, is when pointing timing light, timing mark is jumping up and down from the pointer on bell housing. Somewhere I read that one of the experts hates Pertronics electronic ignition...but I digress. I will do some of the tests (that this non-mechanic understands anyway).
Joe.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

joedude
assuming there is a load tested battery (that passed the test). all cables and connections are good and connect to clean bare metal not a painted surface, the battery terminals are removed & cleaned to shiny bare lead and/or brass, there is no/minimal voltage drop when cranking between the battery and the starter, state of engine tune is good (compression test, spark plugs clean and gapped, plug wires in good shape with no bulges or soft spots detected along their length and rubber boots at terminals are good, distributor cap & rotor clean and terminals good inside and out, points gapped and clean and a check with white business card through contacts will not leave a dirt trail on the card, condensor good, coil good with clean tower wire connection and no heat discoloration on the outside or carbon tracking on the bakelite insulation, ballast resistor good and connections are clean, nice blue spark given on a test for spark-both hot and cold engine, valve adjustment within specs, valve train checked for wear etc that could lead to variation of valve lash, fuel pump pressure and output tested fine-both hot and cold engine, fuel filter good, air filter clean, a check for vacuum leaks is good, heat riser operational and not sticking, exhaust system not squashed or restricted), etc.
when you say it starts right up I assume that is from a cold start up. then when hot it cranks slower and doesn't wanna start. when you say cranks slower, do you mean like a nearly dead battery kinda slow or do you mean slower because it isn't also trying to start at the same time for some reason, it's just cranking a dead engine? trying to start means it will crank faster because it is in the process of starting. maybe try a cold crank over with the coil wire grounded for comparison. have you done a voltage check at the battery and at the starter when it is hot? starter draw test when it is giving trouble?
another reason for a slower hot cranking would be a heat sunk starter, a starter that is dragging when it is hot or possibly a poor connection in the starter/solenoid switch compounded when the hot starter is calling for more amps. do you have a foot starter switch or an key or push button operated electric solenoid style? here is a link to the hot starter issue that may explain some stuff better
https://www.knowyourparts.com/techni...hot-heat-soak/

another reason for not wanting to start after it has been running already is because of boiling gas in the float bowl when you shut it off hot. sometimes an insulating gasket between the carb and manifold will fix this issue as it acts like a heat sink/insulator between the hot intake manifold and the carb base. remember the inline 6 has the intake and exhaust manifolds bolted to each other with a heat riser butterfly valve to warm the intake on cold starts/days. the engine heat plus the exhaust manifold heat are warming the intake manifold right under the carb so it is common for the truck to smell like gas after a hot shut down because the gas is evaporating in the smoking hot carb. basically the carb absorbs engine heat after shut down so the gas in the bowl boils and ends up in the intake manifold and evaporates-you can likely smell it when you get close to the truck or lift the hood after it has sat for a few minutes. the bowl ends up nearly empty so the fuel pump has to refill the carb. that takes a few revs so the starter cranks the engine while it is not trying to start due to no fuel. it makes it seem like the starter is dragging but if compared to a cold engine, that is also not trying to start, the rpm of the starter may be the same or close. that is why I suggest to ground the coil wire and crank it when it's cold for comparison. the other thing that goes along with this is that the fuel in the lines near the engine also gets hot and can pressure up due to expansion until the pressure overcomes the needle and seat in the carb. more fuel to evaporate and also more fuel to pump in order to fill the voids caused by evaporation.

https://www.hagerty.com/media/mainte...ake%20manifold.

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/W...-How-to-Fix-It

voltage drop testing-remember this is a 12v system so the allowable differences can be different than a 6v system. this will tell you if the connections and cables are conducting like they should be. if using the old style braided ground cable ensure it is clean for the entire length, no corrosion, and there is a good ground cable from the body to the engine/frame. I think the old stock cables grounded to the cab on some trucks if i remember correctly. task force units anyway.

https://www.aa1car.com/library/volta...ts%20or%20less.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0OtjG4bwJg

hope that helped somebody.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

Thank you for that education.
All parts are new or rebuilt except that I don't know about the fuel pump, it came with the engine. Also, the voltage regulator is original with truck.
I think I can rule out the cold/hot issue. Engine will not restart no matter. The starter rotates the engine without trying to fire up. I do not have a gas tank installed yet so I am running a thinner than the metal gas line, hard plastic tube in a gas can (always making sure it's full). The other condition I have is I installed the Pertronix ignition. Someone mentioned that they are junk. Maybe that is why my timing mark is jumping up and down from the bell housing pointer. I did notice in the YouTube where the gal is starting up the tractor, it is cranking very slow (like mine sometimes) but fires right up and running. I also noticed if I work the starter too long, it gets so hot, I can't keep my hand on it (it was rebuilt recently).
Joe.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

Sounds like you have a few issues going on there at the same time. Maybe figure out your ignition and timing first, then possibly take the lid off your carb and look at your float Bowl level, then go from there. Have you pulled a spark plug to see what kind of spark you have? And is the spark plug wet?

Re: Battery charging issues
 

maybe its your starter getting heat soak

Re: Battery charging issues
 

as a mechanic I have had jobs that came from another shop and they have done this or that and the problem still has not been resolved. sometimes tunnel vision can happen and we overlook something sorta obvious. usually I tell my customer that I have my own way of doing things and don't rely on the previous shop's results. I have worked with enough guys over the years to know that we all do things differently and can come up with different results with different people doing the same test on the same vehicle. with that said, it may be a good idea to start from scratch and do all the normal tune up checks and do them like you have never seen the truck before so you won't have any preconceived opinions and you will every test properly. I understand this is time consuming but in the end it may save you time and money on parts. start with a compression test. dry then wet. have a spare battery kicking around so you can have somewhat the same cranking speed. a 12v battery will not harm a 6v starter as long as you don't spend a long time cranking and let it cool off if it heats up. just ensure you do the same thing for all cylinders for each test. compression tests should be done on a warm engine but if you can't get it to start I guess that is out the window.

-mark and remove all the spark plug wires from the plugs, then remove the spark plugs and lay them on the bench in order so you can reference the soot/burn pattern, gap etc if required.
-disable the coil by removing the power wire from the coil or grounding the high tension lead well. if grounding the high tension lead ensure it can't come undone from it's ground and cause a spark as there is fuel closeby plus you don't wanna be the recipient of a random ground to person if things go awry
- tie the throttle and choke wide open
-ensure the wheels are blocked fore and aft and then place the transmission in neutral or park if automatic trans
-hook up a remote starter switch if there is an electrical starter solenoid type "start", figure out how to operate the starter linkage from under the hood for the old fashioned "step on the starter" style or have a friend assist with either scenario from inside the cab. this is usually the best method but sometimes (98% of the time) we work alone
-have a note pad ready with columns for cylinder numbers and corresponding columns for dry and wet tests for each. I usually have a long page so I can also track valve lash etc for each cylinder
-connect your compression tester and perform a dry compression test making sure to document your results right after each test is done so you don't get mixed up. crank the engine so each cylinder gets 5 tries to get to it's max number on the gauge. there is some controversy about how many cranks to give but if you give each cylinder 5 tries that should be sufficient. some will crank it until a max number is achieved whether that happens in 5 or 8 or whatever. just do the same for each cylinder. move on to the next cylinder and do the same until every cylinder is charted. should you have any cylinders that seem to be higher or lower than the rest redo the test on those cylinders and chart the results. should you have cylinders that seem to take considerably more cranking to get a max result then note that in the chart.
-when done do a wet test. that means you will squirt engine oil into each cylinder prior to each test. a hand operated oil can works best for this and you will want to test it out first soo you know how much oil is going in. then ensure to give each test the same amount of oil. squirt the oil in, install the compression tester, wait a second or 2 so the oil has a chance to make it's way around the piston and then do the test. again, do the same for each cylinder so time the "second or 2". chart the results right away and then remove the tester. place a rag over the spark plug hole and crank the engine so you can capture any oil that may spray out of the hole when you crank the engine for the next cylinder test. move on to the next cylinder, do the same, and so on until the wet test is complete for every cylinder
-now you can compare the results. the dry test should come up with all cylinders being somewhere in the correct pressure range, about 130 psi I think but don't quote me, and they should all be within 10% of each other or somewhere within about 10 psi since 10% of 130 is about 13. if you have a low cylinder that usually indicates worn or broken rings or a valve that isn't sealing well for some reason (possibly valve train wear, camshaft timing, bent pushrod, bad rocker arm etc) or something else that is allowing the pressure to bleed out. sometimes a bad head gasket or a hole in a piston. a higher than normal reading could indicate high carbon build up in the cylinder or possibly an exhaust valve that isn't operating properly so the air that is allowed to come into the cylinder has no way to get out. a cylinder that is "using oil", as indicated by a glance at the spark plug for that cylinder, may give false higher readings because it has excess oil in the cylinder that is helping to seal the rings. a bad valve seal or worn valve guides can also contribute to this extra oiling as well as plugged or insufficient crankcase venting
-next compare the results to the spark plugs. if you have a low cylinder check the plug to see how that cylinder was firing. the same goes for a high reading.
-if you come up with problems you can do a cylinder leak down test. sometimes i will simply air up a cylinder, held at top dead center on the compression stroke, so I can quickly tell if there is leakage through a valve. air up the cylinder using compressed air from the shop line through the spark plug hole (I have had to break an old spark plug and thread or weld in a pipe fitting to allow a valve and an airline fitting since I may not have that particular spark plug threaded adapter. do whatcha gotta do sometimes) and be aware that if the engine is not mechanically held at TDC then it may want to turn over when the air is added. then listen through the exhaust pipe and the carb for the sound of air leaking into that system. that sound would indicate leakage through that valve. air coming out of the adjacent cylinder's spark plug hole would indicate a blown head gasket or some other problem between these cylinders. air coming through the oil filler or crankcase venting system would indicate worn rings or a hole in a piston. bubbles in the rad would indicate a cracked cylinder, cracked cylinder head or head gasket issue. below there are a few links for some basic tests. the guys page also has many more tests and descriptions that you can peruse on your own time.
-next move on to doing the valve train check and lash check/adjustment. I always recommend charting this prior to and then again after any adjustments are made. you can compare results to those compression pressures and also the spark plug condition. check each rocker for wear where it contacts the valve stem and also where it pivots. while you are there check the pushrods for wear and being straight. check the area for signs of improper oiling etc. a rocker with a worn out contact area against the valve stem will be next to impossible to adjust properly and if the rocker is worn out on the pivot point then it also becomes hard to get a lasting adjustment. use your own discretion in these areas as it can be like opening a can of worms and sliding down the slope of "while i am here I might as well do the ...". soon an in-frame rebuild has been done. part of the valve train check also includes how much lash there is in the timing components. one way to quickly check this is to turn the engine one direction for 1/2 a turn at least and line up the timing mark pointer. this is so the gear train will be loaded one way and you will have a reference mark for how many degrees the crank turns in the next step. then remove the distributor cap and mark a position on the distributor housing that is inline with the rotor. sometimes a piece of tape works well for this. bridge the gap with tape stuck to both parts and then cut the tape in the gap or place tape on both parts and mark each with a line so you can tell if the rotor turns. next turn the engine slowly the opposite way that you did before while watching the distributor rotor. when the rotor is seen to move stop and check how many degrees the crank moved before the rotor, which is attached to the camshaft, moved. I understand there is also lash in the gears between the distributor and the camshaft but this is just to get a rough idea of the gear lash without removing a timing cover. when doing your valve lash adjustments the engine should also be cranked over a few turns while you check for all the rockers moving the same amount. a rocker that doesn't move the same as the rest would indicate a worn cam lobe. a valve that is protruding more than the rest would indicate a valve that has worn into the valve seat. also check for broken valve springs while you are there and the condition of the umbrella valve seals seen by peering through the coils of the springs. they should be complete and soft rubber.
-next check the ignition system for problems starting at the power source and moving through the system. sometimes there is a poor connection on the back of the ign switch that causes a voltage drop. sometimes it is a poor connection on the ballast resistor or the coil or the wire that goes through the distributor housing to the points. check the rotor, cap, wires, plugs for cracks, carbon tracing etc.
-next check the fuel system. do a pump pressure and output flow test. document the results. then check/replace the filter(s) and check the fuel cap vent and seal against the filler, check the tank outlet line for bends or kinks and follow the lines right up to the carb ensuring all is good with no tight restrictive bends, kinks or soft spots n the rubber components. pull the lid off the carb and check the float level and what is in the bottom of the bowl. check to ensure the accelerator squirter nozzle is aimed at the edge of the throttle butterfly valve and that the squirter is working properly. check for full throttle at the carb when the pedal is all the way down. full choke activation when the cable is pulled.
-next check for vacuum leaks. a smoker machine can be built easily with items normally found at home. you could google it. basically smoke is forced into the intake manifold at the carb end and the exhaust pipe is plugged. you check for smoke coming from any intake fittings, gaskets etc.
-check the exhaust heat riser for proper operation
-check the exhaust for tight bends or reasons for obstruction. the system can be checked for pressure build up while running by welding an o2 sensor bung into the pipe and using a vacuum/pressure gauge but, again, that takes time and money and an engine that runs. since there is no catalytic converter the only reason for restriction would be obvious pipe problems or a muffler problem. shake the muffler and listen for loose things rattling around inside.
-next check the battery. have it load tested after a full charge and some time to sit after. then check the starter draw or remove the starter and have it checked by a shop that has no history with the starter. since you say it heats up quickly there may be issues internally. just because it was rebuilt doesn't mean it was done correctly. there is no huge stockpile of used cores at the rebuild shops for the old stuff so it may be that there were some marginal parts that were re-used and, yes, it works but it may not be optimal. a hot starter usually means it has used a lot of amperage. possibly an internal reason for that if there is no external heat source like a bad connection or a tight, hard to turn engine.

here is a link to compression testing
https://dannysengineportal.com/compr...n-it-tell-you/

here is a link to leak down testing
https://dannysengineportal.com/how-t...hout-a-tester/

here is a link on how to do a vacuum test
https://dannysengineportal.com/vacuu...han-you-think/

fuel-air-compression-spark. all at the right time-BOOM. it runs.

hope something in there helped somebody. lol.
gotta go. I got a life off the computer apparently.

Re: Battery charging issues
 

shouldda mentioned. if a 12v battery isnt to be used to jump a 6v battery. the 6v battery won't like that much. I meant a 12v battery could be used BY ITSELF on a 6v starter for short duration starts. bear in mind that this will also affect other 6v stuff in the system. if doing this then take the rest of the truck electrical system out of the equation and only use the 12v battery for the starter part of the system. the starter solenoid or "step on the starter" switch will also have a wire that goes to the coil to supply battery voltage when cranking for a hotter start up spark.
sorry, I wasn't clear on that in the last post.