Easy way to remove motor and trans from donor?
Looking to see whats the best/easiest way to do this? my donor truck is a 2001 yukon DBW 2WD. im needing the engine, trans, wiring harness, TAC module, and gas pedal assembly.
ive started with the obvious, front hoses, intake and filter box, clutch fan, belts, A/C hoses, alternator. i know i will still need the power steering lines disconnected, and i will probably pull the top intake to give me more room. also planning on cutting the exhause right under the pipes. also, are you guys pulling engine and trans together or seperate? just trying to find the easiest route. |
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Sounds like you got a handle on it..pulling all at once is easier to me
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Re: Easy way to remove motor and trans from donor?
Cut exhaust down stream of primary O2 sensors so you can re-use the down pipes with the O2 bung. Keep trans and engine together. Remove all hoses and wires but leave wire harness on engine. Pull front end of vehicle off: bumper, grille, lights, radiator, condenser, core support, engine stands, etc. Lift engine trans slight and pull straight out the front.
Usually, hood can be placed in the service position and not need to be removed. |
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Don't bother trying to cut the exhaust with an acetylene torch. There's enough anti-oxidizing properties to the metal that GM used in the exhaust that's it's practically impossible to burn it away with a torch. You have to blow it away with the o2, which is slow and expensive. Instead, cut the exhaust with a grinder or a reciprocating saw.
Remove the radiator support. Remove everything you can off the engine. Most of it comes off very quickly. The front accessories, intake, and coil packs should all be gone within an hour or so. By removing this stuff, you reduce the risk of damage while pulling the engine, particularly if you pull it with a skidloader like I did. |
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I thought the 02 sensors get deleted?
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Only rear O2 sensors are typically deleted. Saws All on the exhaust. If the cats are there cut them off and use them or sell them to the recycler. Have extra blades on hand. I would remove the engine/trans wiring harness, pull the engine/trans as one and then disconnect the wiring harness from the engine compartment. Take all small parts (bolts,clips) just in case.
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good advice. I pulled the steering pump and bracket, the intake, and fuse box tonight. getting closer
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What about “where to lift from?”
I’m about exactly the same point as Kev currently. Old SBC I’d use a couple bolts in the heads. Will that be fine with aluminum heads? I’m leaving the trans connected. Thanks and hope you don’t mind the hijack |
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i made a couple of lifting brackets similar to whats on a smallblock..that bolt to the end of each head..they hold just fine..depending on what harness you go with those factory o2 sensors may not work anyway..i know on the PSI harness they give you the #s for the ones you need
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fourspeed , they sell ls lifting plates that bolt under where the intake mounts. I believe you pull that plate and then bolt on the lifting plate. I will be needing that soon myself |
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I like to use an engine leveler on my cherry picker. 4 some what short chains attached to the front and rear of both heads. The leveler helps with adjusting the engine tilt. The four chains seems to help keep the engine more level from left to right.
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I actually bought a leveler earlier this year for this project but then seen that valley plate lift so I ordered one
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I really despise removing the engines out of the 4x4 ones. There is little to no room to get the bell housing bolts out. This especially sucks doing it in a pick n pull. :lol:
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ya I hear they are tougher lol.
I completely got my harness and pcm out yesterday...wasn't all that bad. think all I have left is to cut the exhaust, pull the driveshaft, and unbolt the motor mounts and trans mount. I pulled the radiator but nothing else up front so I'm hoping the trans will clear the core support coming out. |
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Most LS engines have a lifting bracket on the left rear head (intended, I believe, for a special clamp). I drilled the bracket to be able to bolt a chain to it. This worked well when I first installed the engine completely dressed. Later I learned it is much easier to bolt a leveling bar to each head with the engine naked...ie no intake manifold, coil packs, or accessories.
FWIW, the front or primary O2 sensors are necessary as they fine tune the air/fuel mixture. The rear or secondary O2 sensors have no affect on the air/fuel ratio and cannot control anything. Their only purpose is to monitor the efficiency of the catalytic converters. |
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good thing I asked you guys, I was going to cut it right under the headers
got the front core off and have plenty of room now. |
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David..do you have a pic of the lifting bracket you said comes on the engine?...I've never seen one on any of the engines I've pulled
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I wonder if it's this one?
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Could be..maybe assembly line bracketry?...none of mine have that though
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It's actually a guard for the fuel rail. If the vehicle is ever in a bad enough front end collision, that bracket is supposed to protect the fuel rail from being shoved into and through the firewall preventing an inside the passenger compartment fire. I've removed the ones I've LS swapped. I actually used one to make a Z bar ball stud mount on my Camaro. :lol:
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finally got it out. wasn't all that bad for my first time pulling the core support and radiator made it sooooooo much easier. thanks for all the help guys....can't wait to start the repairs
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Good deal
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I'm getting ready to post this donor for sale but I'm having trouble getting the tac wiring out. I have the pedal pulled and tac module but I do t see how the wiring harness comes out and what's supposed to get cut. any help?
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figured I'd post in this thread since I had a few people checking in.....huge disappointment tonight
figured I would drain the oil before pulling the trans off..... |
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drive side valve cover
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oh man..!!!!...that sure sucks..!!!!!
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no smoke either and it sounded pretty good imo. |
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What a bummer. Was the truck in a flood? That's a lot of water. I suspect it can be saved but it will need to be a complete tear down and rebuild. Need to check for cracks in the cylinders and heads. I would pull the pan on the trans.
Still a bummer but you can build it back better. Lots of used stuff over on LS1tech.com. I had something similar happen to me. Bought a "low mileage" (40,000) LS1 engine and 4L60E trans many years ago. Pulled the pan and front cover to just check stuff. Shiny chunks in the pan and a very loose timing chain. Took it to engine shop and it wasn't pretty. More like 240,000 miles. Put in good rods and pistons. New bearings. Small cam. The block and heads were sound. Heads got a slight port job along with a valve job. Its been in my 98 Wrangler for 13 years. It runs great. |
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I'm going pull the heads tomorrow and see what I can find. guess it's hard to tell with out the heads pulled and oil pan off. I'm hoping it's just a blown head gasket. |
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I have down this road just recently. Engine in my donor ran good when I test drove it. Drained oil and globs came out...uh oh, coolant and oil mix...probably means cracked cylinder head. Pull valve cover and man was it dirty with baked oil. Pulled heads and they passed pressure test. Cleaned engine best I could, replaced oil pump, resealed entire engine.
After my LS swap was complete, the engine started right up and sounded great, but it immediately left a puddle of oil under the rear main...damn, I messed that seal up. new seal and same results...turned out the crank was moving radially due to worn out main bearing. So, I bailed and bought an engine from a salvage yard. Used my boroscope to look inside the engine to ensure spotlessly clean. 2nd engine is great! So, maybe don't waste your time on the engine you have and get a better one. I got my 5.3L from the salvage yard for $425. |
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I recall years ago I went to Pick N Pull by myself to pull my first engine, I was planning to call my buddies to come help me later on, I got there and picked a Tahoe in the middle of 5 fresh new cars, two on one side and two on the other, the time was 9 am
a crew of 3 guys showed up next to me, they knew what they were doing, by 11 am I had everything loosened up ready for extraction, meanwhile these guys were yanking their fourth motor and transmission combo, no joke, no lie this is how they did it, one guy went from the top in the engine bay and cut all the belts and hoses and disconnected the wiring harness the second guy went under the trucks and disconnected the driveshaft and the transmission crossmember etc, the third had a saws all and literally cut the front subframe off the trucks on either side and the whole front clip came crashing forward, and then they hoisted the engines out of the carcasses, in California they cut out the catalytic converters so the exhaust was already taken care of and cut off |
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They have been sawing the frames around here for a long time. Occasionally they saw the fenders and all....😬
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:lol: I guess because I'm green in the junkyards...seems that's where it's common. which I get it cut that thing in half and load it
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