My 72 Build
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Started a build thread awhile back, but I can't stand all the side ways pics, so I decided to just start a new one since it wouldn't let me edit them.
Been lurking on here for years and finally pulled the trigger on buying one this past November of 2020. I've wanted to build one of these for as long as I can remember and really wanted an original SWB, but figured I'm gonna cut it up anyways so it really didn't matter. Found this one through a friend and it had been sitting inside a connex box for the last 5 years. It appears to be a southern truck with minimal to no rust, but we'll see... Here is the day I brought it home. |
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Sitting in her new home and already started teardown
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More pics of tear down...
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Old 350/350 pulled out and sold.
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The welds from when this frame was shortened didn't look too great, So I scored them and re-welded them. I also installed frame stiffeners.
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Sent the rear-end out to be totally redone. Shortened the axle tubes 4" overall, added 3.73 gears, posi trac, new axles and Ford ends. Also grabbed a new diff cover as well.
I never grabbed an after pic, but this was the before. |
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Got the frame stopped down to the rails. Glad to be done with those damn rivets..
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I decided on going with No Limit Engineering for the suspension part of the build. After countless hours of researching different kits, this one was the best bang for the buck out there, and after talking to Rob, I was sold.
Went with the Wide Ride front end with the trailing arm setup in the rear. All in al it wasn't too bad of an install. |
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Also decided on the Dirty Dingo transmission crossmember as well as the Porterbuilt trailing arm crossmember.
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While everything was disassembled and sent off to powder, I scored this free to me welding table from a friend. It's 4'x4' and 1.5" thick!! Had to unload it with the skid steer. Let's just say it's all there lol.
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Got everything back from powder and started reassembly of the frame.
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Front brakes on and painting the newly redone rear-end. Rack and pinion also installed after prepping and painting.
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Brakes installed in the rear-end. Waiting for some bushings that I had a friend make to get the No Limit trailing arm kit installed.
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Another shot of the chassis...
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Picked up a 5.3/6l80 combo out of a 2011 Silverado. Only has 91K on it, but it's headed to the machine shop anyways tomorrow for a whole new bottom end and rework of the heads. Before/after I started the tear down.
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So, I finally got my engine back form the builder a couple weeks ago. Now I'm just playing the waiting game too see how long it takes for all my ordered parts to get here.
I've already ordered a mid-mount accessory drive kit from Holley, Terminator X Max, Injectors, Headers, misc ARP bolts, DBW 102mm throttle body, and valve covers. I also decided to ditch the 6l80 and sold it. I went with a built 4l80 that I got from Freak Show Transmission out of Abilene TX. I also went with a BTR equalizer intake that my machine shop had ordered for another customer that changed his mind, so I got a great price on it. Once I get all these parts in and get the final assembly of the engine/transmission done, then I'll put the body back on and measure the back spacing for the wheels and get them ordered, get all the wiring roughed in, and then blow it all back apart for paint a body to begin. I still have a ton to get done, but I think I've made pretty good progress for a little less than a year piddling on it. |
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Great project!
Subscribing to this one. |
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I bought a repop bed kit from Southwest Classics a few months ago with the 16" wheel wells, so I need to get that put together as well. I'll be running 255/40/20's up front and 345/30/20's out back. |
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Finally got a a chance to get back on the truck...
Re-worked and welded up the rear inner fenders that I started a couple months ago. |
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Then primed the backside.
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Got them spot welded in. Primed and sprayed some rustoleum on them until I get around to the undercoating.
Hoping to have some more free time to work on it soon. Ready to get the engine and trans installed, but still waiting on parts like everyone else... |
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Well done, sir!
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Switched gears and worked on getting the engine and tranny in.
Had to change out the valve cover grommets. |
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Reinstalled the coil packs with ARP bolts.
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Installed the injectors and fuel rails.
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Flex plate installed and torqued to 74lb ft, again with ARP bolts.
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Pulled old balancer off and installed the new one that came with the Holley accessory drive kit.
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Mated up the new 4l80e trans and almost got it installed. trans mount wasn't working right so I called it a night..
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Well, I sorta screwed up...
I boxed my frame with the frame stiffeners and then also added some 1/4" plate I had laying around to make sure it was rigid. fast forward a few months when I finally got around to installing my motor and trans, and realized that my "boxing" would interfere with my transmission crossmember. So...I had to re-engineer my Dirty Dingo Trans mount by having a local fab shop bend up some 1/4" L brackets, cutting off the ends of the original crossmember, and then welding it back up. Drilled a few more hole and I think it'll work. Always something it seems. |
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Once that was figured out and bolted up, I bolted the torque converter to the flywheel.
I ordered that expensive ass flywheel cover from GM, got it painted up just to find out the holes need to be opened up a bit on one side... |
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I know its a bit premature, but I went ahead and leveled my frame to see what angle my motor and pinion were at. I figured my pinion was high just by eyeballing, but damn...
Motor was at 5.3 while the rear was at 11.9 It is bolted up to the tabs and on the lowest setting on the rear No Limit crossmember. Any Ideas besides shims or cutting the tabs off and re-welding them. Id really hate to do this as everything is already painted and I don't want to start over... |
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While I was waiting for my dust cover to dry, I went ahead and started installing my accessory drive system. It's pretty straight forward there.
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it looks like there's a spacer between the rear pad on the bottom of the rear and the trailing arm?you may have to taper that or make tapered spacers to get the nose of the rearend down?
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Looks like the front of your angle gauge is being raised up by the pinion dust shield. At least a few degrees, thinking pinion is closer to 9. Put gauge on front surface of yoke. Lowering the trans mount, raising engine mount, angle shims to get pinion down or cutting pads and re-weld would seem to be only options. A 3 degree shim may get you within 1 degree with the fat part pointed to the front.
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Very nice work going to one bad @ss truck
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I'm maxed on motor and trans so at this point its either shims or re-welding the tabs. |
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Is that your simulated ride height?
Your rear axle tubes are a long way away from your frame that is c-notched. I bet your pinion angle is a lot closer at ride height. |
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Well, Richard definitely had it right...
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