The never ending K5 Build LS Swap
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It was almost 2 years ago when I originally finished my Blazer and since then I've logged about 4K miles. I decided to make some changes (which btw is an understatement), and I figured I would start a new thread. Some of you are familiar with my first build and for those who are not, it's called "Attempting my first build"
I've spent the last 3 months planning this out and here's what I'm doing. 1. LS Swap 6.0 (LQ9) 2. Atlas Suspension & Fox Shocks: I'm going to be using their custom 52" progressive front springs and rears with the DIY4x B52 First Gen Hanger Kit https://diy4x.com/product.php?produc...cat=250&page=1 The front springs are 10" longer than stock and this should help soften the ride. 3. Front Swaybar & cross member from a square body. 4. Dakota Digital Gauges 5. Custom Center Console 6. Custom Sound system 7. Updated fuse panel, a relay panel, and switches to control the relays 8. Vintage Air setup 9. Smooth Firewall using Vannatta fabrications 5 piece firewall kit |
Re: The never ending K5 Build LS Swap
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Pulled the 427 SBC out. This was actually taken a couple of months ago.
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Why the change so soon after you "completed" your build? The truck seemed just right the way it was.
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It sure looks good the way it is, but obvious that you want to change a few things. I'm sure it will come out great.
Pat |
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The 427 was a bad A** but we got a little in over our heads on the build and it ended up being way too much motor for the Blazer and most importantly for what I intended to use it for. It wasn't very street-friendly and the valve train was high maintenance, especially when using a solid roller setup. Going the LS route I will have a reliable engine that makes good power and I can drive it long distance or as a daily if I want. I plan to control the engine and trans with the Holley Terminator Max X that was recently released a few months ago. With the additional electronics (fuel pump, dual fans, seat warmers, e-Locker, ECU, Sound System, etc.) I needed to update my wiring. I was using original style harness from M&H Electric. I also had a little accident in the garage. A cabinet fell from the wall and smacked right into my quarter panel, so back to the body shop it went. I'll refrain from posting a pic because it would make your stomach sick! Since it's at the body shop now and with the engine out, I figured I could clean up the firewall. I originally wish I did this the first time around when it was painted and that was to have all the holes filled and a smooth firewall. |
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How about you? Pat |
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About a month ago I tackled the suspension and front sway bar.
The difference between the Atlas 52" springs and stock. Attachment 1937245 I used an air chisel to remove the rivets. Attachment 1937255 used a 2" hole saw to make to mount the new rear shackle which moved back about 4-5". Attachment 1937256 Attachment 1937257 I believe the new shackle mount locations moved the axle either fwd or back about 1/8-1/4" I cant remember which way. The front hanger has 4 predrilled holes and depending on which one you use determines the axle movement from stock location. Attachment 1937263 |
Re: The never ending K5 Build LS Swap
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I removed the front cross member and then put the sway bar on to determine my new mounting location.
Attachment 1937268 Getting the square body cross member in was PITA!!!. I'm going to make new brake lines up front since the cross member location moved fwd about 2" Attachment 1937269 Sway Bay installed. Attachment 1937270 Attachment 1937271 |
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Nice - glad you're getting this build (3.0) documented :lol:
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I forgot about this build cool to see it completed. I don't think I could have torn into a freshly completed truck!
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I'll watch. enjoyed part a, nice to work on something all clean and shiny! I'd buy your short block, if you weren't on the wrong coast
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Thinking about a swap as well so I am definitely interested. Thanks for keeping us posted.
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So are you keeping the same tire/wheel set up? I think I asked in the past about your lift, its perfect. Are the new springs going to change your stance at all?
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For the LS engine mount, I ended up going with Dirty Dingo. I did extensive research on this subject and after talking directly to Pacific Fabrication and Dirty Dingo I ended up with the latter.
The reason I went with the DD is that they guaranteed me that my stock height leaf springs wouldn't be an issue with the cross member hitting the top of the pumpkin on the differential. (We Shall See!) The only thing I didn't like about the DD is I am going to have to make new brake lines and re-route. The Pacific Fab has cut-outs or notches if you will, in their version and I would have gone with theirs if it didn't require at least a 2" lift. The install was pretty easy and they provide you with detailed instructions that are easy to follow. Attachment 1937498 I had to bend my existing line to allow the cross member to fit. It's binding on the frame so a new custom line will go in it's place. Attachment 1937499 Attachment 1937504 |
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This is the first mock-up I have designed so far. It's a work in progress :lol: |
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Maybe I missed it in you first build thread, but what transmission was in your truck? Are you just mating to that or upgrading to a newer unit to match the LQ9? Will you have to move any of the drivetrain assembly forward or back?
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I kept the engine in the same place and moved the Tcase back 2.5". I had to have new driveshafts made and I used the Lokar shift linkage to make the proper bends for it to fit. |
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Of course I have original springs with an old add a leaf in them. Still, I'm talking 2" of clearance! May modify the bolt in center section of the x-member for another inch of clearance. Your truck looks great! Keep it up |
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I have to say you're making me feel bad with my "mild" restoration.
Looking at yours, you have restored it just as I restore my old Corvettes! I've been trying to curtail the level I'm restoring to, yet project creep keeps taking ahold. Especially when I see a project like yours (as well as a few others on here). Thanks for keeping up on the pictures, Pat |
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I had a set of custom springs made by Atlas Suspension. They were made for stock ride height. I moved my Tcase back when I installed the 4l80e and left the engine in stock location. I suppose moving the engine fwd would put it closer to the pumpkin. |
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What kind of vettes do you have? One of my favorites is the C2 |
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A '62, and a '63.
The '63 is just nearing completion. Then I got sidetracked a little with the Jimmy! Pat |
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nice rides!
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The K5 went off to the body shop about 3 weeks ago and I'm hoping to bring her back home this week so I can get working on it.
Here's what the firewall looked like before. Attachment 1939217 I had the shop use this 5 piece kit from Vannatta Fabrication Attachment 1939233 Attachment 1939234 Attachment 1939237 Attachment 1939238 |
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More firewall pics
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Gonna be nice when it gets back!
Pat |
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Very nice!
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For the Vintage Air setup, I'll be using a square bulkhead for the AC / Heater hoses. They used a nibbler to make the cutout since it produces minimal heat that could otherwise end up causing distortion in the metal.
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While I have been waiting for the bodywork and engine I've been keeping myself busy with a few things. I'm on my third mockup for the custom center console I think I have the final prototype that I'll be using.
Board member PICKMUP makes these cup holders for original consoles that replace the seat belt holders so I made some changes to the first design. |
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Mike...my boy...all I can say is wow. And sign me up. Roads...where you're going, you don't need roads. :cool:
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Mike, saw in your previous thread where you used a Boyd's tank from AZ performance but had to do some modification on the filler neck. Can you elaborate? Looking to order one but want to know if I need to do something custom to make it work. Thanks!
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Okay. Got a nice a little update. The Blazer comes home from body shop tomorrow and I also received my engine back. In the meantime, I've been spending much of my time perfecting my cerakote skills. If you're not familiar with Cerakote it's pretty cool stuff. It's a type of ceramic coating that is very popular with gun enthusiasts. It lays down very flat and thin (like 1mm) and they offer two kinds of curing.
I've been using their air cure (C-series coating), mainly because I don't have an oven to bake this stuff and it also has a higher temperature rating compared to the H series. These are the colors I've been using (Black Velvet, Burnt Bronze, Stop Light Red) Attachment 1944711 Every part under the hood has been painted one of these colors and I'm really happy with how it turned out. Attachment 1944712 All the AN Fittings also received the cerakote special! Attachment 1944714 More parts Attachment 1944715 Holley EFI Intake in Stop Light Red Attachment 1944718 |
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I offered my engine builder to come in and cerakote the block and heads but he insisted on doing it himself. Well, my OCD kicked in and I sanding everything down as far as I could get So reshot the block and heads. I think he should stick to building motors and leave the painting to me lol:
Attachment 1944719 Attachment 1944720 Attachment 1944721 Attachment 1944722 |
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He did a great job on porting & polishing the 317 heads for the LQ9 Block.
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The accessory drive system is from Drive Junky. It's a really nice setup. Of all the ones I was considering I liked this one the most because of how it keeps everything compact. The AC is mounted on the lower left passenger side. The kit includes a fully tig welder Jones Racing Power steering pump. They also customized the setting for the PS pump to work well with my Hydroboost setup. They actually come anodized black but I couldn't help myself to spray it in the black velvet to match everything else.
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