Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

Sometimes it takes a while but, those wheels will show up just like Candid Camera, when you least expect it.
You sure have been keeping yourself busy... that’s a good thing.. I hope.

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

Congrats on ignition! That must feel great! :metal:

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

Awesome, glad to hear you got it running!

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

That was my favorite show as a young kid! When I read your comment I heard the shows jingle play through in my head. I had a flashback of me sitting on the floor while my mom ironed my dads shirts and watched Candid Camera. That was 45 years ago.... Wow... time passes exponentially faster every day. It's my goal to redeem my time left on better things and causes than I used to... Lord knows I spent lots of my younger days in the wrong mindset.

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

Thanks TA_C10, Your hard work has certainly been an inspiration to stay at it. I always look forward to your posts.

It does Kyle!

Thanks Potter, I only ran it for a total of maybe 20 seconds since there is no coolant in it yet. Today I hope to get it up to temp. and see if I can plug in my Dakota gauges to get some readings. I don't know what all is involved other than plugging the gauges into the OBDII port. I'll need to read up on it first.

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

All the gauges that will be read from OBDII are simply plug and play with the BIM module. OBDII to BIM and make sure all your engine and trans harness connectors are plugged in. That's it buddy, easy peazy.

Fuel gauge, DD asks for you to run full circuit(data and ground) all the way from DD box to fuel sender. I didn't do that, I knew my grounds were solid. And my fuel gauge seems to be working just fine.

Let us know if you have any issues.

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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

That's what I'm seeing in the BIM-01-2 instructions. Does the instrument cluster need it's own power source or is it getting power from the BIM?

Also, what "DD box" are you referring to with the fuel sender hook up?

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

I'm talking about the main DD control box. It will need both 12v constant and 12v ignition. And ground of course... I re-purposed those wires from the factory harness gauge cluster plug. I think I had to add a wire to the plug, can't remember which one, probably the 12v constant. But you will see that when you get there. The BIM gets it's power from the DD control box. There is a cable that is pre-made to connect it to the DD control box. Then there is another cable that connects the BIM to the OBDII off your engine harness. I used a splitter to make my setup a little easier to plug and unplug if I ever use the OBDII for anything in the future like a scanner. But of course, the splitter doesn't really work because the PCM can't talk to two devices at the same time over serial on the same cable, but it allows me to keep my DD harness tucked up in the dash and another empty OBDII plug under the dash for easy access.

:chevy:

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

Glad to see you got your engine fired up! I just ordered my DD from Travis at ProPerformance so I'll be following your thread - curious to see if your tranmission information from your 6L get's to the dash without any additional hookups.

Also, loved your story about your intake and cover! Where did you get the aftermarket intake by the way? Looks solid.

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

Thank you Rowdy! I like to deal with Travis too. Those guys know their stuff. I’m looking forward to exploring all the features the DD has to offer. I was initially all excited about having the tap shift feature working, by installing paddle shifters but since I like column shift for its nostalgic feel, I’ve veered away from feeling like that would be something I would use on a daily basis. It will be cool with the RTX gauges to see the specific gear the truck is in while driving. The original chrome column shift will be in “D”, just like factory, but in actuality the transmission could be in any of 1-6 gears.:metal:

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

I filled the engine with water and ran it longer yesterday. Next, I’ve really got to get that O2 bung relocated so I don’t have the giant exhaust leak. I managed to get a new filter, so that is possibly picture worthy...

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

My PCM had the gear indicator configured from factory. It was actually from a 6.0 engine but minor differences from 5.3. The 4l60e neutral safety switch is attached to the gear drive so it reads what gear the vehicle is in therefore translating that data to the PCM. If you install that neutral safety switch on your trans(even if you use the neutral safety on your column instead, this is what sends the gear indicator signal. I can't imagine a PCM not being setup to read gear indicator in your setup as mine is an older GEN III

:chevy:

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

The GenV LT's use a smaller tube than most of the kits for the LS. I think it's a 3.5" as opposed to a 4" and from what I have heard it's important to have the correct size. I ordered it from Summit and drove my happy butt over and picked it up. The very first time I cranked the engine genius left the plastic bag on the filter and crushed it. I'm sure it'd be fine for use as it was, but I didn't like the red anyways. Autozone had a blue one sitting on the shelf so I scooped it up, and , this time I remembered to take the plastic bag off.;)

I'm on the fence about the placement of the intake tube. Since I'm still not sure about where I will put the battery, I have it pointed towards the passenger side now to gt a feel for it. I plan on switching it around if possible and try it on the drivers side too. I'm leaning toward just keeping the battery where Chevrolet engineers put it originally, just because it seems easier. Not just when installing it, but also whenever I need to remove it or jump start...
If the intake tube doesn't like residing on the drivers side I may get one of those auxiliary battery trays that mount on the drivers side and leave the intake where it is.

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

Glad to see you got it going, and an easy fix is always nice to have.

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

Thank you Sprint.

Driveshaft: I need one. I've contacted a local company here in Ft Worth called American Driveshaft & Gear Specialists and plan on them making it for me. I need to choose a slip yoke for the 6L80e. Any opinions on which one? Are the 4L80e yokes the same as the 6L80e? As far as the back U joint that would be a 1310, correct? My plans for this truck are to be a daily driver, so are there any opinions on the material of driveshaft? I don't expect I'll ever want more than 450 hp.... or should I say I'll never be able to afford more than 450 hp. Aluminum is cool of course, but I won't be staring at it while I'm driving, so unless y'all know a reason I need that I'll probably go with steel.

My original 2 piece driveshaft is in great condition, any chance that could be shortened and used, either with or without the carrier bearing?:chevy:

Any help will be appreciated!

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

You heard of LSX Unlimited in Ft. Worth? Those guys are LS guru's. And they do lot's of other things like race cars and etc. I always ask them advice on where they send their work out to. They sent me to automotive driveline supply in Hurst. They did a great job. Fast work. Knowledgeable. Not to say the company your going with isn't but it's another option just in case.

Anyway, they were the ones that told me out the slip yoke issue I ran into. Best advice is to remove the tailshaft housing on your trans and double check what's installed. I bought my own yoke off the interwebs and didn't know what I was doing and got one with a weep hole. Well im sure you saw my post on that. All fixed now. But it would have been nice to do it right the first time.

I'm no expert, but I would verify your setup on your trans before you order a yoke. And the driveline place should be able to get you the yoke rather than purchasing one outside source.

If you already know all this, then ignore my .02 :D

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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

Do you not already have a yoke? Regardless, any reputable driveline shop should be able to help you with the driveshaft, slip yoke, pinion yoke, and u-joints.

Also, if you don't already have one, you should get a new pinion yoke and seal.

I had a local driveline shop make my 1-piece steel driveshaft.

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

I stopped in to order a driveshaft and got sent back home to count the splines on the tail shaft. Having a wife that’s an art teacher has its perks every now and then. She had some clay that made that job much easier...

While I was out I picked up one of those gravity feed pneumatic media blasters from Harbor Freight. I need to get several small parts cleaned up for painting and thought I’d give it a try. I say 2 thumbs up! 20 bucks won’t get you much these days but this little sucker earns its keep. I filled the blasters hopper half way with fine grit coal slag and shot a hood hinge. Waaaay easier than hand sanding!

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

ouch on being sent home... and i won't lie, I bought new hinges "almost" for that reason.


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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

I bought a transmission dipstick that was a bit too short for my preference. Since I hate returning things, and probably couldn’t anyway since they sent me exactly what I ordered, I’ll learn to love it. Where do you think would be better? Any other ideas out there? I suppose I can fill the AC and heater holes, but that’s a project I’d like to avoid... for those of you who have the Vintage Air setup, how much clearance is needed around the holes in the firewall?

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

Semi gloss black laid down pretty good.

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

This is the radiator that was last in use when I was running the original 350. It was a direct replacement for the small block. For the life of me I don’t remember what this thing I circled was for....

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

Hinges look good man. Wish I had a sandblaster. I'm re-using my hinge springs, I painted them same gloss black as well. The PO destroyed one hinge so i just bought 2 new ones...

And I like your trans dipstick :rolleyes:

No really, mine is stock style, and it's functional, but looks terrible. You can hide yours and/or blend it in so it's not in your face like stock. And really, how often do you ever need access to it so I think your going to like your decision more once you get it finished. I like it to the right of the hoses, but I just finished watching a b!tch!n rides episode, season 4 episode 2 i think, and I noticed they used the same dipstick and mounted it to the engine block. You could probably attach it to the back of the engine head and still have enough access to fill maybe? That would be ideal to hide it. Depends on what you want I guess.

So here are a few pics I took today for you to see space available on my vintage setup. I still have my VA heater hose valve detached. If you mount it close to the firewall, you won't have as much room as I do. I mounted mine down on the inner wheel well so I could attach it to the inner fender well. But I have seen others mount it right up on the firewall. Or you could get crafty, and mount it inside the cab. I have seen others do that, and I would have done this had I thought about it.

Anyways, let me know if this link doesn't work. I didn't want to blast all these on your thread without asking ;)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cBEcfEfn5gQXdRE89


:chevy:

Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

Is that trans cooler return line?

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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
 

No sir. Water flows from it without the cap on it.